Opinion needed : how serious is this crack?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Opinion needed : how serious is this crack?
Hi everyone
recently noticed this little crack on my cx frame, i wonder how serious is this thing and is it safe to use the frame?
unfortunately this is the only photo i have at this moment
recently noticed this little crack on my cx frame, i wonder how serious is this thing and is it safe to use the frame?
unfortunately this is the only photo i have at this moment
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Ocala, Florida
Posts: 256
Bikes: 74 Romic, 83 Basso, Lotto, 88 Condor, Prestige MTB, 12 Soma, Groove
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I wouldn't worry about it. The lug is brazed to the top tube and head tube and is not highly stressed, also the crack doesn't appear completely through the lug. Put a dab of auto body putty in the crack, sand it down, and touch-up with Testors model paint.
Cheers
Cheers
#3
Banned.
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Brighton UK
Posts: 1,662
Bikes: 20" Folder, Road Bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Hi,
I have friend with serious cracks in his headtube. Everyone says it is toast.
He knows it is as as he can feel it riding the bike and he won't do certain
stuff he used to do on the bike. If it feels solid it probably still is, if it
doesn't then well of course it isn't, adjust riding style to suit safety.
rgds, sreten.
Interestingly (perhaps) I got involved when he was discussing some
some small cracks at the bottom of his head tube. I had a look and
had to be shown where this "bad crack" was, it didn't look too bad.
Anyway after perusing it over I turned round and said "you think
that's a crack, that is a crack", pointing at a huge (relatively) 1/2"
crack in the top of his headtube he had somehow not noticed.
I have friend with serious cracks in his headtube. Everyone says it is toast.
He knows it is as as he can feel it riding the bike and he won't do certain
stuff he used to do on the bike. If it feels solid it probably still is, if it
doesn't then well of course it isn't, adjust riding style to suit safety.
rgds, sreten.
Interestingly (perhaps) I got involved when he was discussing some
some small cracks at the bottom of his head tube. I had a look and
had to be shown where this "bad crack" was, it didn't look too bad.
Anyway after perusing it over I turned round and said "you think
that's a crack, that is a crack", pointing at a huge (relatively) 1/2"
crack in the top of his headtube he had somehow not noticed.
Last edited by sreten; 09-26-13 at 01:44 PM.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 39,042
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 141 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5964 Post(s)
Liked 2,872 Times
in
1,601 Posts
Odds are the head cup was pressed in without reaming the tube to the proper diameter. The head tube is under ring tension from the pressed in cup, and there's no reason to hope that the crack won't propagate.
OTOH, you're lucky this is the top cup, which is much more lightly stressed than the lower. I'd ignore it for now, because the remedy is the same now as later.
When/if it cracks to the edge, and you develop play in the top head cup (which may never happen) you'll have a choice of a good braze repair, or trying to skate by with bearing adhesive to stabilize the upper cup in the head tube.
You'll cross that bridge and deal with if/when you come to it, but there's nothing you can or should do now.
OTOH, you're lucky this is the top cup, which is much more lightly stressed than the lower. I'd ignore it for now, because the remedy is the same now as later.
When/if it cracks to the edge, and you develop play in the top head cup (which may never happen) you'll have a choice of a good braze repair, or trying to skate by with bearing adhesive to stabilize the upper cup in the head tube.
You'll cross that bridge and deal with if/when you come to it, but there's nothing you can or should do now.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 09-26-13 at 04:48 PM.
#5
Banned.
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Brighton UK
Posts: 1,662
Bikes: 20" Folder, Road Bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Hi FB,
I'm trying to understand the top fitting but I don't have the experience.
Is the first fitting above matched to just the lug and sits above the head tube,
or does it still fit the head tube with a wider flange for the extra lug width ?
I'm not sure what is holding what in place. I want to assume the head
tube extends flush with the top of the lug, but it might not, leaving
a recess for that first part, how is it usually done ?
rgds, sreten.
I'm trying to understand the top fitting but I don't have the experience.
Is the first fitting above matched to just the lug and sits above the head tube,
or does it still fit the head tube with a wider flange for the extra lug width ?
I'm not sure what is holding what in place. I want to assume the head
tube extends flush with the top of the lug, but it might not, leaving
a recess for that first part, how is it usually done ?
rgds, sreten.
Last edited by sreten; 09-26-13 at 02:05 PM.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 39,042
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 141 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5964 Post(s)
Liked 2,872 Times
in
1,601 Posts
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by CbadRider; 09-27-13 at 09:17 AM. Reason: Removed disruptive comments
#7
Senior Member
/K
#8
Formerly Known as Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Posts: 6,249
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
3 Posts
OK. I deleted quite a few non-topic posts in this thread. If you see your post missing, it was because of the disruption clause in our Guidelines. Please keep the discussion on topic from now on. Thank you.
--Juha, a Forum Mod
--Juha, a Forum Mod
__________________
To err is human. To moo is bovine.
Who is this General Failure anyway, and why is he reading my drive?
Become a Registered Member in Bike Forums
Community guidelines
To err is human. To moo is bovine.
Who is this General Failure anyway, and why is he reading my drive?
Become a Registered Member in Bike Forums
Community guidelines
#9
Randomhead
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,496
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,792 Times
in
2,583 Posts
the OP should really take the fork and headset out and look to make sure the crack hasn't propagated further than just the lug. I am in the process of fixing a bike that had a huge crack in the head tube. I was questioning if it really was cracked when I first looked at it, but then when I looked harder, it was quite large. In fact, the entire outline of the lug was cracked.
This crack will continue to grow
This crack will continue to grow
#10
Senior Member
the OP should really take the fork and headset out and look to make sure the crack hasn't propagated further than just the lug. I am in the process of fixing a bike that had a huge crack in the head tube. I was questioning if it really was cracked when I first looked at it, but then when I looked harder, it was quite large. In fact, the entire outline of the lug was cracked.
This crack will continue to grow
This crack will continue to grow
Just ride it and keep an eye on it from time to time. It's not something that will fail catastrophically.
Your choice if you want to put in the money for braze repair somewhere down the line (if it needs it, which may never actually happen).
However, I have a sneaking suspicion that the crack is unrelated to the headset cup. The picture isn't very good so this is hard to tell, but the crack seems to be only on the exterior surface of the lug, and starts from the bottom of the lug, not from the top. So it may be unrelated and not a worry at all.
A better picture might give me a different opinion. Do you have a camera with macro (close-up focus) capability?
__________________
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 39,042
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 141 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5964 Post(s)
Liked 2,872 Times
in
1,601 Posts
+1, I didn't emphasize this enough in my first post. The process of removal and replacement may precipitate exactly what you're trying to avoid. Regardless of the cause or nature of this crack, or whether or not it will propagate, the repair will be the same now or later. So there's no benefit in exploring the situation, and you might as well ride the bike until the crack causes the upper cup to be loose (if it ever does).
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#12
Banned.
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Brighton UK
Posts: 1,662
Bikes: 20" Folder, Road Bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Hi FB,
I'm trying to understand the top fitting but I don't have the experience.
Is the first fitting above matched to just the lug and sits above the head tube,
or does it still fit the head tube with a wider flange for the extra lug width ?
I'm not sure what is holding what in place. I want to assume the head
tube extends flush with the top of the lug, but it might not, leaving
a recess for that first part, how is it usually done ?
rgds, sreten.
I'm trying to understand the top fitting but I don't have the experience.
Is the first fitting above matched to just the lug and sits above the head tube,
or does it still fit the head tube with a wider flange for the extra lug width ?
I'm not sure what is holding what in place. I want to assume the head
tube extends flush with the top of the lug, but it might not, leaving
a recess for that first part, how is it usually done ?
rgds, sreten.
rgds, sreten.