KlingOn

Hey all.

Looking to take my track-turned-road bike on some longer, hillier rides with dozens of really steep climbs longer than what my skills and 72kg can power through.

I have a Miche Advanced crankset and the smallest ring I've got is a 47. I have every Dura Ace cog, and I love their forged quality, but they only go to 16, and that combo just doesn't cut it, and I'm doing a lot of hiking when I'd rather be riding.

I'm super happy with the Miche crank, but the cheap looking Miche cogs (are they stamped? must be at 9€ apiece) and their proprietary carrier seems a bit cheap, but at least they go to 18t. Does anyone have any experience with these cogs?

What I'd really like is something in 19, 20, 21, at 1/8", that doesn't cost 70€ apiece.

I know what Google is, but all I've found are stamped Chinese junk for 7-8€, or works of forged art for five times that or more.

Is there something in the middle, similar to Dura Ace quality and finish? Forged no-names? Any ideas or advice besides Phil Wood, EAI or losing 4kg? I don't need a cog that comes in it's own designer pouch, or a cog that's worth more than the hub it's on!!!

Thanks!

IAmSam

I don't know if they have Surly cogs over there but you should check for them - available up to 22t in both 3/32 & 1/8, & only about $30...

KlingOn

Hey, thanks for the info. I just checked them out.

I see the quote "They're made from machined, heat-treated, and chrome-plated SCM415 CroMoly steel." Does this mean forged or stamped?

If they are good quality cogs then those sound like a good option.

sbs z31

I run surly cogs on both my winter beater and commuter and so far so good, 17t on the commuter and 20t on the winter beater.

KlingOn

I see. Not to be too anal but I currently have two wheels, one is on a Miche hub, the other is on a Campagnolo hub. These are Italian threading, 35mm x 24tpi. 35mm is 1.378 inches, while the Surly cogs are 1.375 inches. I don't believe three one-thousandths of an inch is going to create issues, but since these standards also have different thread angles (55 for Italian and 60 for BSA), I worry about long term damage to the hubs.

I have no brakes on this bike and no way am I drilling out the bullseye on my Vig, I accept death as a means of keeping the track credibility of this frame without hesitation.

Since I'll be skid-stopping exclusively on big hills, are my fears warranted that over a few thousand miles I will damage my hubs using "not perfectly" identical threadings regarding cogs and hubs? Maybe I'll just ride the Miche, that's a throwaway 100€ wheel, but the Campy hub is a real gem.

Not sure I can even use the Surly lock ring (1.29") which would also be a dealbreaker.

TejanoTrackie 

The Surly cog is ISO, not BSA, and can be used on both English and Italian threaded hubs. The lockrings, however, are completely incompatible, and you will need to use Italian threaded 33.5 x 24 on your hubs.

FakeFuji

You don't need a matching lock ring and cog, fwiw my surly cog has been with me on three bikes and while it is worn and makes a little more noise now, it's perfectly functional

Scrodzilla

EAI cogs are $28 and are available up to 22t in either 1/8" or 3/32".

KlingOn

Scrod, yes I see that their alloy stamped cogs are in that price range. Are these quality parts? I don't have a distributor in France for these. Literally 800m from my house is a shop where I can buy the Superstars, which are 68.50€, and the Gold Medals, which only a rich kid would even dare to buy at 102.50€. However this shop doesn't sell the cheap EAI range. If I buy from the U.S. they are $28 plus $25 shipping minimum. I would have to buy at least three sizes to make it worth it because of the shipping.

A guy in my club has a 22t Phil Wood 1/8" for 50€, I'm so cheap but that may be the best local option for me. He's a real jerk, and would hate to give him my money.

I put a brand new 7€ no-name Chinese stamped 21t on today with an Izumi chain that has <500km and a practically unused Miche ring and the bike sounded horrible compared to my Dura Ace cogs. So I'm already 7€ down the hole... But the bike feels awesome running 47 x 21. Super easy to power slide-stop, too. Feel like a genuine urban hipster!!

mihlbach

Miche cogs are not cheap stamped cogs. I have been using mine for years with no problems.

Once you install the carrier you can swap cogs without unthreading them, so you stand less chance of f'ing up your threads. If you change gears often, its a great system.

Plus, the whole system is way cheaper in the long run. The splined Miche cogs are cheaper than normal threaded cogs. Unlike threaded cogs, Miche cogs are reversible, meaning that once you wear out the teeth you flip it over on the carrier and, viola, new cog.


If you have a 47 tooth ring and normal 700c wheels with 23-25 mm tires, I question the need to go larger than an 18t cog. Gear it too low and you will lose more speed going downhill than you will gain going up.

RollCNY

Most likely neither. They look to be a machined cog from either bar or billet stock.

KlingOn

I totally agree, but a 50km ride for me often includes more than a dozen 75-150m climbs, lots with 10%+ spots. I don't mind cruising downhill going slow with heavy legs. Just trying to minimize the walking in new-ish road shoes.

Not looking to make any epic YouTube videos, just want to ride to and around the lower Pyrenees without walking.

Guys I ride with can do it in 48 x 16 and do it hard. I'm not that guy.

Also, had the discussion regarding the Miche cogs. Seems like a split group. If they're so legit, why are they priced at the Fung Chong level? I do like the idea of a carrier though. But in all the times at the track, I never once saw anyone using this set-up.

mihlbach

In that case, I would recommend a freewheel.

Spoonrobot 

I wasn't going to post anything until I read this part:

*highfive

If I were in your shoes I'd check out the facilitator thread in C&V and see if you can work out a deal wherein someone in the US buys the cogs you want, you reimburse them for the cost+shipping/time to your location. This seems very common for inter-US and US-Canada deals, not sure if US-Euro facilitation is ever really done.

I'd recommend All-City cogs. They're forged and last a long time. I wore out a 17t cog at around 12,000 km. Which seems pretty good to me.

ETA: I just look on ebay.fr and it appears you can get all city cogs for 13€-17€ + 3€ shipping? Am I missing something?

https://www.ebay.fr/sch/i.html?_trksi...at=0&_from=R40

Also, if you're running a 47t chainring I would stop at 19t for the cog. You will absolutely hate 20t/21t for anything. Look at this thread for inspiration; tips:

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...d-Gear-Bicycle

KlingOn

Ah, so if one can't mash up a dozen 1km 7% climbs at 49 x 15 they aren't a man and need a freewheel?

The Vig would look awesome with a bolted-on, kludged rear brake, and a drilled out fork to drop the frame resale value to joy the hipster nether regions.

I'd love to see your Suffolk County uber-power on 48 x 16 in the real world, where things go up on old Roman roads. I don't pretend to be king of the road, Patchogue. But I know don't need a freewheel.

I'll check out some more info on your Miche recommendation. Looks good.

KlingOn

Hey, great links.

Even though I've got killer climbs, I will heed your advice on the 19. This 21 feels like a hummingbird on the trainer. I've got rings 47 thru 51. Maybe 51 x 21 would be okay, that's a little stocky-looking though.

Oh, and All-City cogs I can also buy in person, all for less than 20€, but was told to stay clear of them. No clue about them, are they legit? Lot of bike snobbery here, difficult to figure out which way is up. Trial and error of generating my own opinion would cost infinity and beyond.

Hope you don't dare drill your forks out either, dude!!

Spoonrobot 

I think so. They look like all the other forged cogs I've seen, and seem to be round as anything else. They mesh well with the chains I've used (KMC410, KMC710, SRAM PC1); no excessive sound or wear. I've got about 20,000 km between 3 cogs and have been pretty satisfied.

TMonk

What's wrong with a freewheel?

I'll drop you and I'd prefer to have a freewheel (as opposed to fixed) if I was doing that much climbing, mainly for the descents.

TMonk

What's the rush? Just start riding?

RollCNY

You do know that climbing is harder on a freewheel than it is fixed, right? In a sea of dumb posts, you are an island.

europa

I've used Roselli cogs with great success

https://www.hillbrick.com.au/hillbric...procket-detail

JohnDThompson 

+1 this. They're nicely made as well.

Bat56

Rule 69 violation. Please stop.

Cute Boy Horse

Don't waste money on expensive cogs. You can't see the fancy CNC work when you're pedaling.

Scrodzilla

EAI doesn't make an alloy stamped cog and my shop certainly doesn't charge $25 to ship a cog to France so I have no idea what you're carrying on about.