clones2

Anyone else with tips on these? Installing Bontrager R3's from the TLR kit onto a Bontrager RL wheel. Physically unable to get either tire on.... already snapped one lever in half.

chaadster

No levers; use soapy water to lube entire assembly and rags to grip tire with hands to work it on. Be sure to keep first bead in center of rim to provide necessary slack when locating second bead.

Levers can damage beadand sealing; hopefully you did not.

anotherbrian

I found for installing it is definitely easier with just fingers than a lever. Even ultra thin levers take up space/increase the tension.

Strong fingers. I "roll" the bead up slowly, and eventually it gets done. My fingers/thumbs may be sore for a week. After the tire has been installed once, I've found it is much easier to remove and reinstall.

TrojanHorse

I have never not been able to install a tire with my hands - although it can be difficult with some rims. As Chaadster mentioned, squish the tire bead into the center of the wheel (for most of it) and then roll the unmounted bead over the rim with the palm of your hands. Be careful not to pinch the inner-tube with the rim bead (NA for tubeless, so that's a win)

Jed19

OP, look up Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack. It is a nice tool to have at home.

Elvo

Amazon.com: Buying Choices: Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack

digibud

I use those tires on Race Lite rims so that is different but a bit of slightly soapy water on the rim and tire bead along with care taken to ensure the tire is being pulled into the center of the rim to give it as much room as possible are the keys to mounting the tire. Some tire levers are thinner than others but the bead jack previously shown is also a good idea. With time and experience it won't be needed but at the moment it could be a real help.

lennyk

the key is to keep the bead in the center of the rim, everytime you get some progress,
go back to the opposite end and check over that the entire bead is in the center,
usually it would have moved out a bit and you will get back some slack when you do this.
Also finish with the valve.

Look at this video, esp around 3:20
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4

rpenmanparker 

Also search out the VAR tire jack tool. It is small enough to carry with you on the bike for roadside emergencies.

dvdslw

I am a total convert when it comes to tubeless ever since my first ride and will never switch back to a std clincher but until you know how to properly mount a road tubeless tire it can be a bit "deflating". With patience and practice it becomes relatively easy but you must re train the brain when it comes to mounting techniques. Here's what works for me;

1) Get a small bowl or cup and squirt a generous amount of dish soap in it and add a touch of water, mix well and use a cloth or paper towel to generously apply the soapy mixture to the rim beads and tire beads before starting and throughout the installation process.

2) Start the first bead on the valve stem side of the rim making sure the tire is between the rim and valve stem, the tire will need every last bit of space you can give it so be sure the first bead is completely over the valve stem and not sitting on the stem itself.

3) Apply more soapy mixture to first bead and starting from the valve side and working your way around from there the first bead should go on easy.

4) Apply more soap to the second bead and rim, starting from the opposite side of the valve start pulling the tire over the rim working your way around. At about 3/4 of the way you are starting to think this isn't going to work but this is where you must pay special attention to what is going on. Squeeze the tire beads together starting opposite the valve stem to get the tire down in the center channel of the rim and work your way around the bottom squeezing every inch all the way around both sides working your way towards the top with one hand keeping pressure up top and rolling the bead over on the top side with your other hand. As you squeeze the bottom together you should be able to get just a bit more on top each time until you finally get to the stem at which point you will either need a towel placed over the tire to help grab it as you roll over the last couple inches of bead or carefully use a lever.

5) Now that the tire is installed be sure both beads are between the valve stem and the wheel, not sitting on top of the stem because it will never inflate otherwise. If installed correctly you should be able to use a floor pump to inflate.

6) Inflate the tire to max psi (listed on tire) and visually inspect the beads for proper installation. If all is well you're good to go unless your adding sealant. If adding sealant, deflate the tire, unscrew the valve core from the stem, add sealant, put core back in, and inflate to desired psi.

It's one of those things that just requires some practice, once you get it, you get it. The overall improvement in ride justifies the additional labor required to install the tire. I know this sounds absurd but if you have the time after you get them mounted up, dismount and mount them again before adding sealant just for practice that way you'll either be a bit more confident in the whole process or say this isn't for me. What happens if you flat on the road and have to patch or stick a tube in there? If you have confidence in yourself no problem, if not you're walking your bike home or calling for a ride. Good Luck!

R1lee

And this is the one problem I have with tubeless. If you ever get a flat while riding, and you have to use a tube. It can be real fun getting that tire on.

UnfilteredDregs

If you flat with tubeless you've either...

A- ran out of sealant because you didn't keep track and top off when necessary...

or

B- You've had a tire destroying event that you'll be able to boot & tube to get home. Might as well not be in a rush at that point because...the tire isn't safe.

Regarding difficulty of installation, it's only "fun," if you don't know how to remove and install the tire. It's a simple method but you need to stick to it.

On the road if you do need to install a tube, have a lever with a silicon coating, or something slippery...gently use it to just unseat and slide off the entire bead, the second bead should be easy to slip off the rim as well at this point with minimal, gentle assistance via the lever.

Install the tube in the tire. Add enough air so that it holds shape.

Gently seat a bead as per typical for tubeless.

Massage the other bead over the rim, as if your kneading bread, working from your starting point and around the tire until it's on.

Inflate & off you go.

Yeah, it takes a little more time, about 20 minutes for me, and I take my time.

Nevertheless, if you keep your fluid topped off, you never get flats and barring significant tire damage the whole exercise of tubing a tubeless is rather academic.

Something you should know how to do, but only is a very remote possibility if you maintain your tires properly.

Jiggle

I've installed the hardest UST mountain bike and SCT CX tires with Pedros tire levers. You should get some. And improve your technique.

hueyhoolihan

i've had occasion to use two levers, with the rim clamped between my legs and trapped into a corner, and with no tube or rim strip involved, just to get the FIRST bead over the rim.

IMO, the add soap and knead recommendations on videos and elsewhere are good for a tire that WANTS to go on, but not for the truly hard to mount tire.

i would take it to the LBS and see what they can do. watch what happens. and if they can get it on (they will never refuse a request to do it, IMO. they have a lot of confidence in their tire mounting for good reason) you may learn something. and if anything is destroyed in the process, you have them to blame. good luck.

anotherbrian

Do you have first hand experience with this? The Hutchinson Intensive tire that I literally spent an entire day mounting on a DT Swiss RR465 (does not have a deep center well that aids tubeless installs) came off the rim a few months later as easily as any clincher tire (on that rim) would.

As for getting flats, sealant works most of the time, but not always. I had a hole sealant fixed, however a month later the plug of sealant popped out and it wouldn't reseal (I added more sealant, pumped it up, let gravity push it out the hole ... just made a mess). Tubeless tires are easily patched though, and I've been very happy with mine overall.

Trsnrtr

So, are you guys carrying sealant with you? I'm getting ready to go down the tubeless path, probably next week.

UnfilteredDregs

You don't, and shouldn't, need to carry sealant.

Trsnrtr

Thanks. I have to admit that the negative comments are giving me pause. I wonder how many nay-Sayers have first hand experience.

UnfilteredDregs

Not a tubeless rim...

Just wanted to point that out just in case anyone here believes that it takes "hours" to mount a tubeless tire.

UnfilteredDregs

What wheel/tire/sealant combo were you thinking of?

UnfilteredDregs

What tire/rim combo?

anotherbrian

Yep ... pre-tubeless era rims can be used with tubeless tires with no problem. YMMV on how easy they are to mount though.

Use rims that claim tubeless compatibility and it should be easier. Or at least rims that have a large U-shaped channel down the center. I finally switched my HED Belgium's (the original, not the Plus) over to tubeless this past week using two wraps of Stan's yellow tape, and was able to mount a brand new Hutchinson tire with absolutely no problem using my fingers (just make sure the first bead stays in the center channel when mounting the second -- if you don't do that it is probably impossibly difficult).

Trsnrtr

I have Giant P-SLR0, 55mm carbon tubeless rims. I've got Stans and Schwalbe Ones. Just waiting on the rim strips.

UnfilteredDregs

I'd say forget Stan's and go with Orange Seal, completely outperforms the Stan's product.

Jiggle

Why would you purchase Stans when the formula is in the MSDS. Just mix it together for about a quarter the price.