campy seat post with no tilt adjustment?
03-15-15, 07:57 PM
#1
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campy seat post with no tilt adjustment?
Looks like I've got one? Is this just totally useless then unless one is just lucky with the tilt angle?
03-15-15, 08:06 PM
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I do not think you understand how it works. The cradle moves across the arc of the post top to adjust. Do you have the rest of the parts?
03-15-15, 08:19 PM
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That appears to be Campagnolo Super record and it is adjustable, quite easily in fact. The adjustable part that holds the saddle rails may be stuck. Give a good whack with a plastic mallet or pierce of wood to free it up.
03-15-15, 08:24 PM
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+1.
Take it out of the bike remove the hardware and drop it on a wooden floor. It'll pop apart and you'll be good to go.
Take it out of the bike remove the hardware and drop it on a wooden floor. It'll pop apart and you'll be good to go.
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03-15-15, 08:41 PM
#5
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yes, that's a Super Record post, and does have adjustable angle. Your picture does not show the securing bolt, though. I hope you have it, otherwise you'll be in for a rude surprise if/when you try to ride on it.
03-15-15, 08:59 PM
#6
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Yup, that worked. Thanks!! (I have the other parts)
03-16-15, 10:12 AM
#7
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It's a decent racing post, very light for it's day!
I wouldn't expect it to hold adjustment (under conditions of heavy load, bumpy road and speed) if the saddle is slid too far back along it's rails. It may slip at some point.
I wouldn't expect it to hold adjustment (under conditions of heavy load, bumpy road and speed) if the saddle is slid too far back along it's rails. It may slip at some point.
03-16-15, 03:44 PM
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Does the Park Tool book have a torque spec for single-bolt aluminum posts like that, even perhaps specifically Campy? It should not slip with the correct torque, nor snap the bolt.
03-16-15, 08:05 PM
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These posts have a fine-threaded 8mm bolt that achieves higher tension than standard 8mm bolts at any given torque, but I've encountered many who can't seem to keep them from slipping.
As I said, it's a decent post for racing, where less rearward saddle offset and lighter riders are more common.
03-16-15, 08:24 PM
#10
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I have split the crescent, once in 40 years; but never stripped a bolt.
03-16-15, 11:50 PM
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never. I have had one on everyone of my old bikes until the seat post started getting larger then 27.2 in the early to mid 2000s. I loved every single of them due to their ease of adjustment and and have never had any slippage. I even grease the slide portion a little for easy removal. Greatest seat post ever design, IMO of course.
03-16-15, 11:54 PM
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I know all about stripped Stupid Record seat post, yet never the bolt but the alum part. Drill it out and tap for a larger bolt. There are plenty of bolts at the hardware store that will do the job after that. All it has to do is happen to you once and there will never be another stripped campy SR seat post, ever again. Those damn things were not cheap
Last edited by look171; 03-17-15 at 01:00 AM.
03-17-15, 12:25 AM
#15
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The original clamping bolt has a thin head that can be hard to get a good grip on. A 6 point socket wrench works well.
I've seen a few of these were the Campy hex head bolt was replaced with a socket head cap screw (Allen bolt).
verktyg
Chas.
I've seen a few of these were the Campy hex head bolt was replaced with a socket head cap screw (Allen bolt).
verktyg
Chas.
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03-17-15, 06:35 AM
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Do you have any experience to support this conclusion?
These posts have a fine-threaded 8mm bolt that achieves higher tension than standard 8mm bolts at any given torque, but I've encountered many who can't seem to keep them from slipping.
As I said, it's a decent post for racing, where less rearward saddle offset and lighter riders are more common.
These posts have a fine-threaded 8mm bolt that achieves higher tension than standard 8mm bolts at any given torque, but I've encountered many who can't seem to keep them from slipping.
As I said, it's a decent post for racing, where less rearward saddle offset and lighter riders are more common.
But I agree, excessive leverage around the vertical pivot should be avoided when possible. Sticking with "shoulds," manufacturers should design to hold the seat stable over the range of expected users and fittings.
I don't argue with your endorsement of the part for racing. I don't race, so I want to use one for all my riding.
You (or others who see a problem) could be under tightening.
03-17-15, 10:11 PM
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I prefer two-bolt designs for ease of use. My experience is of zero slippage with several different single bolt designs, but only one Campy. I once found or estimated a torque spec, and used it. I had one post that slipped, and it had a goofball plastic interface between the post and the saddle clamp.
But I agree, excessive leverage around the vertical pivot should be avoided when possible. Sticking with "shoulds," manufacturers should design to hold the seat stable over the range of expected users and fittings.
You (or others who see a problem) could be under tightening.
But I agree, excessive leverage around the vertical pivot should be avoided when possible. Sticking with "shoulds," manufacturers should design to hold the seat stable over the range of expected users and fittings.
You (or others who see a problem) could be under tightening.
03-18-15, 06:50 AM
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I know all about stripped Stupid Record seat post, yet never the bolt but the alum part. Drill it out and tap for a larger bolt. There are plenty of bolts at the hardware store that will do the job after that. All it has to do is happen to you once and there will never be another stripped campy SR seat post, ever again. Those damn things were not cheap
Cinelli's VIP package included an aluminum Allen bolt to replace Campagnolo's bolt.
