C&V Inspired: I made a frame
08-09-16, 05:50 AM
#26
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It was a lot of fun to build my own frame, I learned a lot. Because it was the first time I did brazing, I did not build a fork.
I did made a mistake with the geometry, but the bike is rideable.
Here is the bare frame:
And build up with Shimano 105 and a rattle can paint job.
I did made a mistake with the geometry, but the bike is rideable.
Here is the bare frame:
And build up with Shimano 105 and a rattle can paint job.
08-11-16, 07:29 PM
#28
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That's a beautiful bike.
08-24-16, 06:49 PM
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@smallpox champ I have a question for you. I am also going to use the Stronglight compact crank on a build very shortly and I wanted to confirm the BB spindle length that you used. I read that 110mm is the measurement but I am not certain.
08-24-16, 09:23 PM
#30
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That is effing awesome. And I agree with the previous poster who suggested no paint, just clearcoat. But whatever route you go, there was never a more appropriate time for this emoji:
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
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08-25-16, 01:00 AM
#31
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@greg3rd48 I used 107mm, as recommended on the manufacturer website: Stronglight - impact compact
I'm not a stickler about chainline, it shifts well, but the q-factor is a little on the high side, like most modern Sugino cranks from what I've read.
I'm not a stickler about chainline, it shifts well, but the q-factor is a little on the high side, like most modern Sugino cranks from what I've read.
08-25-16, 09:35 AM
#32
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From what I hear, durable clear coat does not exist. I've asked about clearcoat to a few local framebuilders, a couple of wet painters, and a powder coater. I'm not a paint engineer, perhaps someone else can comment on this. If one existed, I'm sure we'd see several examples on the interwebs.
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08-25-16, 10:43 AM
#33
Senior Member
I think that is right. I know a couple framebuilders that have tried clear coat only several times, and the frames always started rusting before too long. They all had to be repainted.
I guess if a rough looking bike is important to your personal sense of aesthetics, and you don't mind that it will eventually rust through and die, it doesn't matter. I once considered rescuing an old frame from the San Francisco bay that was covered in barnacles. Now that would have been funny to ride, if a bit unsafe.
I guess if a rough looking bike is important to your personal sense of aesthetics, and you don't mind that it will eventually rust through and die, it doesn't matter. I once considered rescuing an old frame from the San Francisco bay that was covered in barnacles. Now that would have been funny to ride, if a bit unsafe.
08-26-16, 12:19 PM
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Congratulations.
Not just for your aesthetically pleasing result but also for the courage and patience to take on such a project and see it through to such a result. Well done.
Not just for your aesthetically pleasing result but also for the courage and patience to take on such a project and see it through to such a result. Well done.
08-26-16, 01:36 PM
#36
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Inspiring.
For years I hoped to get to the point where I am now WRT working on bikes. Next stop is where you are.
Thanks for sharing.
For years I hoped to get to the point where I am now WRT working on bikes. Next stop is where you are.
Thanks for sharing.
08-26-16, 02:25 PM
#37
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@gugie, @Salamandrine Well that's a bummer. But you've enriched the knowledge of several people at least. 
__________________
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
08-26-16, 03:19 PM
#38
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@greg3rd48 I used 107mm, as recommended on the manufacturer website: Stronglight - impact compact
I'm not a stickler about chainline, it shifts well, but the q-factor is a little on the high side, like most modern Sugino cranks from what I've read.
I'm not a stickler about chainline, it shifts well, but the q-factor is a little on the high side, like most modern Sugino cranks from what I've read.
11-28-19, 09:11 AM
#39
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Thanks all.
@sloar I did not use a jig, just surface plate, blocks, and pinned lugs.
@Bad Lag, gugie is right, it's 56% silver for the lugs, and 45% for the braze-on's, which is slightly more yellow.
@realsteel I used a basic "light" tube set from here: ROAD TUBESET 8/5/8 TT AND DT :: TUBE SETS :: Nova Cycles Supply Inc.
With 16mm stays and round chainstays. The complete frame is 1920g, and the fork 700g.
@gugie I did it with the guidance of the wealth of information available online from generous people. Many pdf manuals, image galleries, youtube videos, and forum posts. After some coaching with the torch, the rest was research and practice, cutting tubes with a hacksaw and files, and figuring out what tool should be the next purchase. Originally I practiced fillet brazing, wanting to make a fast fat 26er, but after practicing with silver decided to make a traditional frame first. This frame used a surface plate and tube blocks to line up the main triangle. The lugs were bent and fit, then drilled and pinned while the tubes were clamped down to the plate, and the joint brazed on the work stand. The rear triangle was hung over the edge of the plate and a dummy axle held like so:
The fork needed a makeshift jig which resulted in it being slightly off spec, my next purchase will be aluminum extrusion to make a proper fork jig.
@sloar I did not use a jig, just surface plate, blocks, and pinned lugs.
@Bad Lag, gugie is right, it's 56% silver for the lugs, and 45% for the braze-on's, which is slightly more yellow.
@realsteel I used a basic "light" tube set from here: ROAD TUBESET 8/5/8 TT AND DT :: TUBE SETS :: Nova Cycles Supply Inc.
With 16mm stays and round chainstays. The complete frame is 1920g, and the fork 700g.
@gugie I did it with the guidance of the wealth of information available online from generous people. Many pdf manuals, image galleries, youtube videos, and forum posts. After some coaching with the torch, the rest was research and practice, cutting tubes with a hacksaw and files, and figuring out what tool should be the next purchase. Originally I practiced fillet brazing, wanting to make a fast fat 26er, but after practicing with silver decided to make a traditional frame first. This frame used a surface plate and tube blocks to line up the main triangle. The lugs were bent and fit, then drilled and pinned while the tubes were clamped down to the plate, and the joint brazed on the work stand. The rear triangle was hung over the edge of the plate and a dummy axle held like so:
The fork needed a makeshift jig which resulted in it being slightly off spec, my next purchase will be aluminum extrusion to make a proper fork jig.
11-28-19, 11:28 AM
#40
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1.25" tubing that has .058 walls and 1.125" tubing that has .035 walls.
The .058 tubing is about as thick as a lug and the .035 tubing is basically the thickness of typical 8/5/8 tubing.
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11-28-19, 11:30 AM
#41
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@smallpox champ , did you ever paint this?
I would guess that epoxy clear would work for preserving the metal after careful prep.
It would likely yellow in time, but many would just see that as patina.
I would guess that epoxy clear would work for preserving the metal after careful prep.
It would likely yellow in time, but many would just see that as patina.
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11-28-19, 11:17 PM
#42
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@smallpox champ , did you ever paint this?
I would guess that epoxy clear would work for preserving the metal after careful prep.
It would likely yellow in time, but many would just see that as patina.
I would guess that epoxy clear would work for preserving the metal after careful prep.
It would likely yellow in time, but many would just see that as patina.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ight-650b.html
I thought about clear but it's rusted up by this point and not necessarily in a uniform, attractive way. I'll strip it and take it to the local powder coater when I have enough time.
12-03-19, 03:49 AM
#43
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12-03-19, 12:06 PM
#44
Senior Member
I think that is right. I know a couple framebuilders that have tried clear coat only several times, and the frames always started rusting before too long. They all had to be repainted.
I guess if a rough looking bike is important to your personal sense of aesthetics, and you don't mind that it will eventually rust through and die, it doesn't matter. I once considered rescuing an old frame from the San Francisco bay that was covered in barnacles. Now that would have been funny to ride, if a bit unsafe.
I guess if a rough looking bike is important to your personal sense of aesthetics, and you don't mind that it will eventually rust through and die, it doesn't matter. I once considered rescuing an old frame from the San Francisco bay that was covered in barnacles. Now that would have been funny to ride, if a bit unsafe.
Very impressive effort. Does not look like a first frame at all.
12-04-19, 12:59 PM
#45
Senior Member
OUT OF THE BLACK
Sorry for the digression from topic...
