2017 Raleigh Tamland 1 Bottom Bracket?
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2017 Raleigh Tamland 1 Bottom Bracket?
So I recently purchased a 2017 Raleigh Tamland 1 bike. Love it so far. I have a question about the crankset and bottom bracket that somebody here may understand better than I do. The crankset is Samox? taf37 but unlike other major brands like Shimano, FSA, etc. trying to find exact specifications such as torque specs and compatibility it's not easy with Samox.
I was looking at getting a power meter for my bike, specifically a 4iii left crank arm and they specify "These crank arms will fit bottom brackets using the Hollowtech ii interface". The Samox, to my amateur eyes, just looks like a standard shimano type pinch bolt crank arm. It seems like I could just get the 4iii shimano 105 crank arm power meter. I just wasn't sure what the exact bottom bracket on the Tamland is. Any insight would be appreciated.
I was looking at getting a power meter for my bike, specifically a 4iii left crank arm and they specify "These crank arms will fit bottom brackets using the Hollowtech ii interface". The Samox, to my amateur eyes, just looks like a standard shimano type pinch bolt crank arm. It seems like I could just get the 4iii shimano 105 crank arm power meter. I just wasn't sure what the exact bottom bracket on the Tamland is. Any insight would be appreciated.
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Are there a set of pinch bolts on the non drive side only? Is there a slot on the side of the crank arm where the pinch bolts are? Most Raleigh's I have seen are a standard 2 piece crank but you don't know the diameter of the
pipe. Let me take a closer look at the specs. Is the bottom bracket external?
pipe. Let me take a closer look at the specs. Is the bottom bracket external?
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I just looked at the photos and specs more closely. Yep looks to be a standard Shimano 2 piece crank set with external bearings.
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I can almost guarantee you it is just a Hollowtech II bb and crank, I took mine off the day I got it. That crank is pretty heavy though (820g to be exact). I might switch out the whole thing for a Force22 or Red crank with a 110bcd and use the rings.
Side note: I weighed everything on the bike except the frameset. It's a heavy bike, the wheels are fairly heavy.
Side note: I weighed everything on the bike except the frameset. It's a heavy bike, the wheels are fairly heavy.
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Last edited by shoota; 02-23-17 at 02:10 PM.
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I can almost guarantee you it is just a Hollowtech II bb and crank, I took mine off the day I got it. That crank is pretty heavy though (820g to be exact). I might switch out the whole thing for a Force22 or Red crank with a 110bcd and use the rings.
Side note: I weighed everything on the bike except the frameset. It's a heavy bike, the wheels are fairly heavy.
Side note: I weighed everything on the bike except the frameset. It's a heavy bike, the wheels are fairly heavy.
It certainly looked that way but I'm a newb to this stuff.
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I can almost guarantee you it is just a Hollowtech II bb and crank, I took mine off the day I got it. That crank is pretty heavy though (820g to be exact). I might switch out the whole thing for a Force22 or Red crank with a 110bcd and use the rings.
Side note: I weighed everything on the bike except the frameset. It's a heavy bike, the wheels are fairly heavy.
Side note: I weighed everything on the bike except the frameset. It's a heavy bike, the wheels are fairly heavy.
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It sure is a smooth ride. I'll probably go full WW on it at some point cause I can't leave well enough alone.
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Haha that's understandable. Triathlons got me more into cycling 4 years ago so I understand reducing weight. I'm in flat country so I don't pay as much of a penalty for weight and I'm loving the comfort of the steel frame and cushy wheels. I have an aluminum road bike and as much as I enjoy it, the ride can be a little harsh. It'd be different if I was racing it.
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damn. got the 4iii shimano 105 power meter but the threads to connect to axle do not match. the bb may be hollotech 2 but seems the shimano 105 crank arm can't thread to the existing crankset axle. guess I'll have to figure something else out.
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I can almost guarantee you it is just a Hollowtech II bb and crank, I took mine off the day I got it. That crank is pretty heavy though (820g to be exact). I might switch out the whole thing for a Force22 or Red crank with a 110bcd and use the rings.
Side note: I weighed everything on the bike except the frameset. It's a heavy bike, the wheels are fairly heavy.
Side note: I weighed everything on the bike except the frameset. It's a heavy bike, the wheels are fairly heavy.
Thanks
Zman
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I was wrong.
Sorry I didn't see this till just now. Did you get it sorted?
Yes, this would be a nice upgrade.
Stan's Grail Team would be a nice midgrade replacement.
Also, you could hit up this guy: https://ridinggravel.forumchitchat.co...kie_redirect=1
Also, you could hit up this guy: https://ridinggravel.forumchitchat.co...kie_redirect=1
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Last edited by shoota; 05-17-17 at 09:47 AM.
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I got it sorted out. I ordered a shimano 105 crankset. The original crankset was not compatible with the 4iii shimano 105 crankarm.
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I just ordered a Stages DA 9000 crankarm set (no rings) and an Ultegra 46/36 crank. Gonna put the ultegra chainrings on the DA power meter arms
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I was wrong.
Stan's Grail Team would be a nice midgrade replacement.
Also, you could hit up this guy: New Gravel Wheels - The Riding Gravel Forum
Stan's Grail Team would be a nice midgrade replacement.
Also, you could hit up this guy: New Gravel Wheels - The Riding Gravel Forum
So yes I did have a set of what I think was Pacenti or A23 wheels built up with the Sapim Race lite flat blade spokes. No being the techy guy probably didn't spell a few things right. So my question is to get a mid grade wheel built would you use alloy or brass nipples and would you use regular spokes or the Saphim spokes. My concerned if you are out in the boonies somewhere and break a spoke you wouldn't be able to find some unless you carried a few with you since they aren't that heavy.
Any help will be gladly appreciated on helping me get a new wheel set up.
Thanks
Zman
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I guess you are Ted over at gravel grinder who helped Raleigh design this bike. I appreciate that. Since I am the newbie here I am trying to get as much info as I can but I still have a very large learning curve comparing road racing/riding to gravel grinding riding/racing.
So yes I did have a set of what I think was Pacenti or A23 wheels built up with the Sapim Race lite flat blade spokes. No being the techy guy probably didn't spell a few things right. So my question is to get a mid grade wheel built would you use alloy or brass nipples and would you use regular spokes or the Saphim spokes. My concerned if you are out in the boonies somewhere and break a spoke you wouldn't be able to find some unless you carried a few with you since they aren't that heavy.
Any help will be gladly appreciated on helping me get a new wheel set up.
Thanks
Zman
So yes I did have a set of what I think was Pacenti or A23 wheels built up with the Sapim Race lite flat blade spokes. No being the techy guy probably didn't spell a few things right. So my question is to get a mid grade wheel built would you use alloy or brass nipples and would you use regular spokes or the Saphim spokes. My concerned if you are out in the boonies somewhere and break a spoke you wouldn't be able to find some unless you carried a few with you since they aren't that heavy.
Any help will be gladly appreciated on helping me get a new wheel set up.
Thanks
Zman
So what happened to the Pacenti/A23 wheels you had? Those would be a nice midgrade wheelset.
I always go with brass nipples given the choice. I'm not a heavy rider and road wheels aren't as hard on nipples/spokes as gravel yet I would snap alloy nipples way too often on a set of wheels I had. So much so I had both wheels rebuilt with brass nipples. Alloy nipples aren't worth the weight savings in my opinion. I wouldn't worry about the spokes nearly as much.
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Negative, I am not Ted.
So what happened to the Pacenti/A23 wheels you had? Those would be a nice mid grade wheel set.
I always go with brass nipples given the choice. I'm not a heavy rider and road wheels aren't as hard on nipples/spokes as gravel yet I would snap alloy nipples way too often on a set of wheels I had. So much so I had both wheels rebuilt with brass nipples. Alloy nipples aren't worth the weight savings in my opinion. I wouldn't worry about the spokes nearly as much.
So what happened to the Pacenti/A23 wheels you had? Those would be a nice mid grade wheel set.
I always go with brass nipples given the choice. I'm not a heavy rider and road wheels aren't as hard on nipples/spokes as gravel yet I would snap alloy nipples way too often on a set of wheels I had. So much so I had both wheels rebuilt with brass nipples. Alloy nipples aren't worth the weight savings in my opinion. I wouldn't worry about the spokes nearly as much.
Thanks
Zman
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I guess I should have noticed that since you are from Tampa FL. and he is from Kansas if my memory is right. That set of wheels is set up for my race bike when I want to go fast and so I wouldn't want to switch them over to gravel grinding. I am lowest @ 180 - 185 and highest @ 195 - 200 lbs. I guess I have all winter to figure out what set of wheels I want to get lined up.
Thanks
Zman
Thanks
Zman
I guess the first thing you need to decide is what your budget is and go from there. How much do you want to spend?
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I am out of my league here so I am not sure. I don't know what an expensive set costs, but I know I probably want a medium price set done. I trust my local LBS that I go to. He said another local wheel builder that has been building wheel probably for 20+ years is really good. So much so that instead of him ordering wheels from other places he has this guy build wheels up for his shop. That tells me that the guy is a pretty good wheel builder. So if I could decide on what kind of rims to use and spoke design along with brass nipples he probably would be my best source for a wheel build. My LBS says he builds wheels for a guy that does a kind of a local gravel grinding ride in WV called the Hilly Billy or the Hilly Billy Roubaix so that should work for me.
I saw somewhere on another thread that the Heed Belgium wheels were kind of pioneers in some off road wheel building rims but now other companies have caught up with them. My trouble is I don't know enough to know what companies have moved up the list to know what is the best bang for my buck.
I guess my gut reaction would be that I would luv to get a set of wheels built in the $500 - $600 range. That being said I don't know how much of an upgrade that would be from the set of wheels I currently have on my bike. I know I can always use another set of wheels to another bike if I really like the sport. Who knows if I really like the Sport I might sell my Tamland 1 and buy some kind of a carbon gravel grinding bike.
I will know a little bit more about how much I like it after my first ride this weekend the Farmer's Daughter.
Thanks for any and all help.
Zman
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I am out of my league here so I am not sure. I don't know what an expensive set costs, but I know I probably want a medium price set done. I trust my local LBS that I go to. He said another local wheel builder that has been building wheel probably for 20+ years is really good. So much so that instead of him ordering wheels from other places he has this guy build wheels up for his shop. That tells me that the guy is a pretty good wheel builder. So if I could decide on what kind of rims to use and spoke design along with brass nipples he probably would be my best source for a wheel build. My LBS says he builds wheels for a guy that does a kind of a local gravel grinding ride in WV called the Hilly Billy or the Hilly Billy Roubaix so that should work for me.
I saw somewhere on another thread that the Heed Belgium wheels were kind of pioneers in some off road wheel building rims but now other companies have caught up with them. My trouble is I don't know enough to know what companies have moved up the list to know what is the best bang for my buck.
I guess my gut reaction would be that I would luv to get a set of wheels built in the $500 - $600 range. That being said I don't know how much of an upgrade that would be from the set of wheels I currently have on my bike. I know I can always use another set of wheels to another bike if I really like the sport. Who knows if I really like the Sport I might sell my Tamland 1 and buy some kind of a carbon gravel grinding bike.
I will know a little bit more about how much I like it after my first ride this weekend the Farmer's Daughter.
Thanks for any and all help.
Zman
I saw somewhere on another thread that the Heed Belgium wheels were kind of pioneers in some off road wheel building rims but now other companies have caught up with them. My trouble is I don't know enough to know what companies have moved up the list to know what is the best bang for my buck.
I guess my gut reaction would be that I would luv to get a set of wheels built in the $500 - $600 range. That being said I don't know how much of an upgrade that would be from the set of wheels I currently have on my bike. I know I can always use another set of wheels to another bike if I really like the sport. Who knows if I really like the Sport I might sell my Tamland 1 and buy some kind of a carbon gravel grinding bike.
I will know a little bit more about how much I like it after my first ride this weekend the Farmer's Daughter.
Thanks for any and all help.
Zman
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I am thinking about getting a Tamland 1 now too and wondered which BB you got to make the 105 crank fit. did you change the cassette too?
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Like so: https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/u...||prd|389530US
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