Strange shifting after installing Reynolds Aero 72
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Strange shifting after installing Reynolds Aero 72
running SRAM Red 10 speed group, RD is short cage. previous wheel setup was Kinlin XR-31T with Bitex hubs with Ultegra 6700 12/30 cassette. shifts perfectly and smooth all the way through.
Aero 72 came with 2 alloy spacers for 11sp. so i put both spacers on last night and installed the Aero 72 with the same cassette. everything shifts fine until the last 3 sprockets (24, 27, 30t). then it had some chain hopping back and forth. i adjusted the B-screw all the way in, pushing the RD as far out as possible, but still hop.
later, i tried using the same alloy spacer from my kinlin onto the aero72 and this time.. only the 27 to 30t jumps back and forth.
when i put the kinlin back with the same spacer and cassette.. no problem. what could be the cause?
Aero 72 came with 2 alloy spacers for 11sp. so i put both spacers on last night and installed the Aero 72 with the same cassette. everything shifts fine until the last 3 sprockets (24, 27, 30t). then it had some chain hopping back and forth. i adjusted the B-screw all the way in, pushing the RD as far out as possible, but still hop.
later, i tried using the same alloy spacer from my kinlin onto the aero72 and this time.. only the 27 to 30t jumps back and forth.
when i put the kinlin back with the same spacer and cassette.. no problem. what could be the cause?
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i measured the hub between the kinlin vs. aero72 and looks to be the same length. i've attached the photos for the spacer thickness. the 1 solid piece is from the kinlin wheelset, while the other two came with aero72.
thanks
thanks
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Step one, improvise some sort of feeler gauge, and make sure the spacing between all the sprockets is the same, especially the space between the last "good" sprocket and first "bad" one. (if I read you right, that would be the 3rd space from the end).
While there, use a tire lever and make sure that you cannot pry sprockets apart. If you can, then it's possible that your stack is too short, and the lockring if bottoming out without packing the cassette tight.
If the cassette is tight and spaced right, then make sure the sprockets are all oriented correctly. If there's a "king" key, they should be, but if not, you might have muffed that.
ONLY after being sure the cassette is not implicated should you start fussing with the RD adjustments.
While there, use a tire lever and make sure that you cannot pry sprockets apart. If you can, then it's possible that your stack is too short, and the lockring if bottoming out without packing the cassette tight.
If the cassette is tight and spaced right, then make sure the sprockets are all oriented correctly. If there's a "king" key, they should be, but if not, you might have muffed that.
ONLY after being sure the cassette is not implicated should you start fussing with the RD adjustments.
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#5
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what's a king key?
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Wait a second. Let's get a few things straight.
You have a 10 speed cassette with a 10 speed shifter. Right?
Which way is it "jumping?" Is it jumping "down" the cassette (to harder gears) or "up" the cassette (to easier gears.)
Why did you screw the b screw all of the way in? Usually that's adjusted just so far as to make the pulley/jockey wheel clear the largest cog. Screwing it in further will make the shifting generally crappy.
You did adjust the derailleur cable tension when swapping the wheels... right? It's not going to be perfect between the two wheels.
It looks like the single thicker spacer is very slightly thinner than the two spacers. You said that the single thicker spacer made it slightly better? So try a single thin spacer. Assuming the lockring still tightens down (and doesn't bottom out) and the cassette doesn't move back and forth of course.
Other than that, is the cassette you're using completely disassemblable? If so, are you sure you didn't mix up a few of the spacers?
You have a 10 speed cassette with a 10 speed shifter. Right?
Which way is it "jumping?" Is it jumping "down" the cassette (to harder gears) or "up" the cassette (to easier gears.)
Why did you screw the b screw all of the way in? Usually that's adjusted just so far as to make the pulley/jockey wheel clear the largest cog. Screwing it in further will make the shifting generally crappy.
You did adjust the derailleur cable tension when swapping the wheels... right? It's not going to be perfect between the two wheels.
It looks like the single thicker spacer is very slightly thinner than the two spacers. You said that the single thicker spacer made it slightly better? So try a single thin spacer. Assuming the lockring still tightens down (and doesn't bottom out) and the cassette doesn't move back and forth of course.
Other than that, is the cassette you're using completely disassemblable? If so, are you sure you didn't mix up a few of the spacers?
Last edited by corrado33; 03-20-17 at 11:08 AM.
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The king key or spline is one that's different so that it ensures that the orientation of every sprocket is the same. Think of it as a mechanical timing mark made so it can't be ^^^^ed up.
Normally, the sprockets and freehub body are similarly keyed, so you can't go wrong. But I have seen cases where it's possible to do so.
Normally, the sprockets and freehub body are similarly keyed, so you can't go wrong. But I have seen cases where it's possible to do so.
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#8
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Wait a second. Let's get a few things straight.
You have a 10 speed cassette with a 10 speed shifter. Right? Yes
Which way is it "jumping?" Is it jumping "down" the cassette (to harder gears) or "up" the cassette (to easier gears.) When I shift up to 27t, it jumps down to 24t and back up and down to 24t. once i shift to 30t, then it's fine for a while and jumps down to 27t and back up and down.
Why did you screw the b screw all of the way in? Usually that's adjusted just so far as to make the pulley/jockey wheel clear the largest cog. Screwing it in further will make the shifting generally crappy. I'm running a SRAM RED short cage, so it's possible to run 30t on it, but need to adjust the b-screw to push the RD out for clearance on the 30t. i had to adjust a bit before when running the Kinlin wheelset, but surprised i needed to screw all the way in.. otherwise it won't shift to 30t.
You did adjust the derailleur cable tension when swapping the wheels... right? It's not going to be perfect between the two wheels. Yes i also adjusted cable tension.
It looks like the single thicker spacer is very slightly thinner than the two spacers. You said that the single thicker spacer made it slightly better? So try a single thin spacer. Assuming the lockring still tightens down (and doesn't bottom out) and the cassette doesn't move back and forth of course.
Ok, will give that a try tonight and see. will check first to make sure the cassette will be tight.
Other than that, is the cassette you're using completely disassemblable? If so, are you sure you didn't mix up a few of the spacers?
all the black spacers are marked 105 on it. i thought they would all be the same?
You have a 10 speed cassette with a 10 speed shifter. Right? Yes
Which way is it "jumping?" Is it jumping "down" the cassette (to harder gears) or "up" the cassette (to easier gears.) When I shift up to 27t, it jumps down to 24t and back up and down to 24t. once i shift to 30t, then it's fine for a while and jumps down to 27t and back up and down.
Why did you screw the b screw all of the way in? Usually that's adjusted just so far as to make the pulley/jockey wheel clear the largest cog. Screwing it in further will make the shifting generally crappy. I'm running a SRAM RED short cage, so it's possible to run 30t on it, but need to adjust the b-screw to push the RD out for clearance on the 30t. i had to adjust a bit before when running the Kinlin wheelset, but surprised i needed to screw all the way in.. otherwise it won't shift to 30t.
You did adjust the derailleur cable tension when swapping the wheels... right? It's not going to be perfect between the two wheels. Yes i also adjusted cable tension.
It looks like the single thicker spacer is very slightly thinner than the two spacers. You said that the single thicker spacer made it slightly better? So try a single thin spacer. Assuming the lockring still tightens down (and doesn't bottom out) and the cassette doesn't move back and forth of course.
Ok, will give that a try tonight and see. will check first to make sure the cassette will be tight.
Other than that, is the cassette you're using completely disassemblable? If so, are you sure you didn't mix up a few of the spacers?
all the black spacers are marked 105 on it. i thought they would all be the same?
FBinNY: thanks! will definitely recheck that. but i'm pretty sure i installed it correctly. since i thought the king key is suppose to dummy proof the install?
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Nothing is foolproof because fools are too ingenious.
I always ask about cassettes because I've seen too many instances where people manage to do the "impossible" and mess that up.
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Will definitely check the cassette tonight.
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What happens when you adjust the derailleur tension so that it shifts into the last few gears (largest few) just fine? Does it mess with the hardest gears?
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If it's not shifting to the 30t until you "screw in" the B screw, it sounds more like your lower limit is screwed in too much. My guess is that the cassette sits a bit further in on the new wheel than the old.
Will check to see if that's the case.
What happens when you adjust the derailleur tension so that it shifts into the last few gears (largest few) just fine? Does it mess with the hardest gears?
Will check to see if that's the case.
What happens when you adjust the derailleur tension so that it shifts into the last few gears (largest few) just fine? Does it mess with the hardest gears?
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mods.. please close this thread. i figured out what happened. re-adjusted the b-screw, limit screws and fixed.