1970's Huffy Sea Pines
06-10-17, 01:46 PM
#1
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1970's Huffy Sea Pines
I bought this bike at the local thrift store for $15 just becuase the tubing looked recycle-able. I tried to figure out what it was before I cut it up, and it seems to be a 70's Huffy Sea Pines based on the handlebars and rear triangle. But, interestingly, the frame is brazed together (except for the dropouts, which seem to be spot-welded).
I think I'll update this as much as possible and make it a run around town bike...
Bummer, can't post pics anymore. I guess I need 10 posts now? Wasn't a problem a few months ago? Oh, well. I'll make a couple of pointless posts and then get some pictures up in here.
I think I'll update this as much as possible and make it a run around town bike...
Bummer, can't post pics anymore. I guess I need 10 posts now? Wasn't a problem a few months ago? Oh, well. I'll make a couple of pointless posts and then get some pictures up in here.
Last edited by shelgame; 06-10-17 at 01:50 PM.
06-10-17, 01:48 PM
#2
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Thread Starter
Got the frame stripped down this afternoon. It definitely brazed. Before stripping the multiple coats of paint, the frame weighed in at 6.5 lbs (!!!). But, I think I took a pound of paint off it.
I also opened up the rear dropouts to 135mm for modern hubs.
I also opened up the rear dropouts to 135mm for modern hubs.
Last edited by shelgame; 06-10-17 at 01:53 PM.
06-10-17, 01:49 PM
#4
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I think it needs disk brake tabs...
This thing is heavy. Main tubes seem to be 1" x 0.049, seat tube is 0.065; head tube is 1-1/2" x 0.093. Stays I assue are equally beefy. I'm sure it's not ChroMo, but probably something like 1040 (high carbon) steel...
This thing is heavy. Main tubes seem to be 1" x 0.049, seat tube is 0.065; head tube is 1-1/2" x 0.093. Stays I assue are equally beefy. I'm sure it's not ChroMo, but probably something like 1040 (high carbon) steel...
Last edited by shelgame; 06-10-17 at 02:04 PM.
06-11-17, 06:52 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
Are the first digits of the ID number the build date? If so, that puts this frame being built in May '73. 44 years old. I was 3 when it was built...
06-11-17, 10:45 AM
#7
Extraordinary Magnitude
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waukesha WI
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Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
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That's a whole lot of work and effort for a bike that's going to sell for $15.
__________________
*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
06-11-17, 11:53 AM
#9
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Soo, it's better to cut up and modify something of actual value? I only bought this as donor for a project to begin with.
The recumbent in the background of the 1st picture has ~$1k invested in it and I know it would never sell for more than $200-300. But, that's not the point.
The recumbent in the background of the 1st picture has ~$1k invested in it and I know it would never sell for more than $200-300. But, that's not the point.
06-11-17, 12:46 PM
#10
Extraordinary Magnitude
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 13,669
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
Mentioned: 86 Post(s)
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It's all up to you- if this is stuff you love doing- it's totally worth it, if just to do it.
__________________
*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
06-11-17, 03:00 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
06-30-17, 06:29 PM
#12
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I measured the frame up and checked on a few available (cheap) forks so that I'd know what the geometry was. Here's the result, using a Sunlite steel 'fixie' fork (that I will braze a brake tab onto).
Seems like this frame is much like a MTB: longer wheelbase and relaxed HTA. Should make a fine all around rider. Next up - filleting all the braze joints, adding disk tab to the rear, adding cable stops and a seatpost binder...
Seems like this frame is much like a MTB: longer wheelbase and relaxed HTA. Should make a fine all around rider. Next up - filleting all the braze joints, adding disk tab to the rear, adding cable stops and a seatpost binder...
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