Jixr

I currently have TRP spyre-c brakes, and they are alright, but i'd like something with more initial bite, espc on the rear wheel as I like to lock it up and slide it around corners.

reviews seem to be 'meh' to 'amazing'

And my wheels have shimano rt xtr rotors, but I don't like how weak the braking is compared to a mtb.

at $100 a pop, i'm wondering if they are worth the cost. I know they are basically out-dated now, but still cheaper than a whole new hydro brifter set up.

shoota 

I have Spyres and have absolutely no problem locking up the rear wheel. One thing to note: in my experience they are very sensitive to pad adjustment and break in. When I first got my bike I was really worried that I was going to have to get new brakes because they were so bad. But after adjusting the pads and giving them a week to break in they've only gotten better and better.

johngwheeler

I upgraded the stock Hayes mechanical disc brakes on my 2016 Trek Crossrip Elite to the TRP HY/RD a couple of months ago. Initially I thought that the improvement was a bit "meh" - hardly noticeable, but after a few days or so of riding, and a bit messing around to get the optimal cable tension, the performance got much better. They recommend applying the brakes 10-20 times after fitting, but I found I had to do a lot more - about 60km of commuting with lots of stops (probably closer to 200 brake applications)

I now think that they are a worthy upgrade - not as good as my SRAM Rival Hydro brakes, but significantly better than the Hayes brakes. I had read that the TRP SPYREs are already quite good, so the differential may be less in your case.

I did have to place around with cable tension in the cable, and then the barrel adjuster, to get the right feel. I now have the brakes set so that the levers are easy to pull at the beginning and *almost* touch the bars when applied with maximum strength. This works for me.

Andy_K 

If you aren't already using compressionless brake cables, I'd suggest trying that before switching to the Hy/Rds. Also, make sure you have the brakes correctly aligned with the pads and correctly spaced (compensating for pad wear). If you've done these things, I wouldn't expect a major performance difference with the Hy/Rds. Their biggest advantage is that they automatically adjust for pad wear.

Lazyass

I can lock mine up, but yeah TRP says you have to run compressionless housing. I would like to try some hy/rd's.

RockiesDad

x2. But being a bit cheap, my initial thought would be that I would be gaining only a half step up vs. a full step. Yes, I would gain better modulation and less pressure needed to stop but is it worth the cost outlay???

Another option is maybe go to a larger rotor. All you need is a disc caliper adapter/spacer and a larger rotor.

Lazyass

You can buy the TRP Road Disc Cable Kit from Merlin for $21.

https://www.merlincycles.com/trp-roa...RoCJZsQAvD_BwE

Andy_K 

One thing to note about getting compressionless cables before upgrading to Hy/Rds is that you should also use compressionless cables with Hy/Rds so you'll need them anyway.

fietsbob

If TRP is any thing like Avid, the after market pad choice will be better than stock ones..

I'm using Kool Stop Organic in my BB7, you may prefer metallic sintered pads ..


with every disc brake bike sold , my LBS suggests a bedding in practice like that.. logically replacing the pads will need something similar.
Modulated , non aggressive braking for a few dozen stops.






....

Jixr

Yeah, the idea of compressionless housing seems a bit silly to me, but i guess i'll pick some up and give them a try. my bike does not have stops for the housing, so the rear brake housing goes from the lever all the way to the rear brake, so i guess there is plenty of length to feel spongy.

Lazyass

I read from a guy in another forum who went from regular housing to compressionless with his Spyre's and he said the difference was night and day. If I can lock up my rear tire on the pavement you should be able to as well.

There's a reason they recommend it on their website.

TRP


But I'm personally very interested the hy/rd's because I would like to run a Campy group on my bike. The Campy cable pull ratio is too low for mechanical discs, but someone is making a short pull conversion arm for the hy/rd. I wish they would make it for the Spyre.

Jixr

well for me the hy/rd's seem nice since I just built this bike up and don't see myself moving to full hydro for a very long time ( unless i happen to snag an epic deal on the shifters )

redlude97

BB7 works fine with campy levers.

Donto

I have about 2 weeks or riding on my new DB Haanjo CC that came with TRP Spyre mech, not a fan of them. Yes I can lock up my back tire but that's not the point, I want better modulation/feel seems like its either not enough or too much on the rear. Front seems like it needs more bite. I had the LBS go through it and dial everything in when I got it, even asked about the brake cables and they said it has the right type installed.

That said, last week I ordered a flat mount TRP hy/rd set off ebay and it comes with beefier rotors than what came on the bike. Waiting for my new TQ wench to arrive then will be swapping out the brakes.

A few weeks back Competitive Cyclist had the Shimano RS505 hydraulic set on sale for $220 that some on bf posted about. Was gone when I went to look again so went the hy/rd route.

Lazyass

I think the BB7's came out before Shimano released New Super SLR. Those are what the TRP's are designed for.

Lazyass

My front was kind of weak too until about the 500 mile mark. It even shuddered a little. Takes awhile to really break them in, unless you're going down mountains or something.

redlude97

they claim they work with all road levers which is complete bull****.

shoota 

Man that's so weird, I don't have any modulation problems with mine.

redlude97

i find for mechanical disks you have to know how to adjust them yourself for your particular feel preferences and clearances. Having a shop do them will likely result in less than optimal setup because their goal really is just to make sure they don't rub and that they don't bottom out

Jixr

update

Ended up ordering some compressionless cables, and some cheap clarks brake pads, and its much much better now than what the stock pads and cheap housing were.

Nothing super amazing, but I would call them safe now. I'll probably just be sure to keep and eye on the pads and make note to replace them often.

redlude97

forgot to mention but the shimano b01s pads are cheap and fit perfectly, can find them anywhere. Much better than the stock pads.

shoota 

I find my pads are getting better and better as I use them.

Good to know, thanks.

DarKris

I can vouch for the Spyres. First disc brake that could actually lock up my rear wheel with + have it skid. I'm also using compressionless housing from jagwire and tweaked the barrel adjuster. As long as your brake levers have a long-enough pull you should be more than fine.