Commuter bike with coaster brake.
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Commuter bike with coaster brake.
TLR Does anyone know of thin, city style wheels with a coaster hub, or a way of mounting a coaster hub into a current wheel?
Just recently purchased a bike from City Bicycle Co. Everything about the bike is beautiful and riding for the first time since I was a kid is so enjoyable i've done it everyday since. But one thing I'm really looking for is skidding and enjoying all the tricks I was doing when I was young. I've tried riding fixed on the flip flop hub and it wasn't terrible but I couldn't skid and I really did not enjoy being unable to coast as a lot of my trips have hills. The single gear is great but having a cable back brake adds way too much visually (clip has already scratched the frame), and cannot really skid effectively. Wanted to know if anyone knows of a wheel set/way of installing a coaster brake into a thin city/commuter style frame wheel. I'm definitely keeping the front brake but having a coaster brake rear I think would make my ride perfect.
Just recently purchased a bike from City Bicycle Co. Everything about the bike is beautiful and riding for the first time since I was a kid is so enjoyable i've done it everyday since. But one thing I'm really looking for is skidding and enjoying all the tricks I was doing when I was young. I've tried riding fixed on the flip flop hub and it wasn't terrible but I couldn't skid and I really did not enjoy being unable to coast as a lot of my trips have hills. The single gear is great but having a cable back brake adds way too much visually (clip has already scratched the frame), and cannot really skid effectively. Wanted to know if anyone knows of a wheel set/way of installing a coaster brake into a thin city/commuter style frame wheel. I'm definitely keeping the front brake but having a coaster brake rear I think would make my ride perfect.
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Sturmey Archer has 1 and 2 speed coaster brake hubs that could be built into a wheel that would fit your application.
https://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/pro...ail/s1c-silver
https://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/pro...ail/s2c-silver
https://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/pro...ail/s1c-silver
https://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/pro...ail/s2c-silver
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So it looks like I would just have to have someone relace my wheels into a new hub? I'm lucky to have a bike shop near me I just want to make sure that its possible. Also thank you so much.
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Rather than having your wheel relaced, maybe just have a whole new wheel built as a suitable rims can be found for $20 to $40 then you have a spare wheel.
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I did this a few years ago and thought it was a great idea. Had a custom wheel built by a place in Washington (state). Thought it was a great idea like I said. It wasn't. Stopping power was horrible and skidding wasn't even an option.
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I just built this, from parts in my garage. The wheels are nearly identical old Rigida and Nashbar 27x1, with an old Bendix "red band" hub. It's a lot of fun to ride, and I use it for my commute, but I have definitely added a front brake since I took the picture. I think we tend to remember the performance of coaster hubs from when we were kids, and therefore had less mass to stop. The fun factor of the coaster might get old if you're riding in traffic.
@SquidPuppet has commented that the Shimano CB-E110 is a better hub, and his explanation makes sense.
I think if you're going to mess around with oddball hub/rim combinations, it's time to learn how to build a wheel.
@SquidPuppet has commented that the Shimano CB-E110 is a better hub, and his explanation makes sense.
I think if you're going to mess around with oddball hub/rim combinations, it's time to learn how to build a wheel.
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Something must have been wrong with the hub, or it was a cheapy. I can lock my brakes up with very little effort. Like super easy, without even taking weight off the saddle. But they also modulate perfectly.
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If it has 36 spokes the rim will be compatible with a Shimano CB-E110 coaster brake hub. You can buy the hub and the "trim kit" that contains some required goodies very inexpensively. Chances are you'd need to buy new spokes at the correct new length and have the shop assemble the wheel using your existing rim. If you take the current wheel apart (very easy) and just bring the hub and rim to the shop, you save a few labor dollars.
If you shop for a complete new wheel, don't buy one that has a Velosteel or KT hub.
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Anyone legally old enough to interact on Bike Forums should not want to skid perfectly good road tires into an early demise. As a youth I used to ride no hands effortlessly. I see the hipsters doing it now. Effortlessly. Somewhere between 20 and 60... I lost the ability. You can't go home again. Nor should the well adjusted adult need to. I hope this is a troll thread.
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Anyone legally old enough to interact on Bike Forums should not want to skid perfectly good road tires into an early demise. As a youth I used to ride no hands effortlessly. I see the hipsters doing it now. Effortlessly. Somewhere between 20 and 60... I lost the ability. You can't go home again. Nor should the well adjusted adult need to. I hope this is a troll thread.
I don't skid though, inferior deceleration.
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I skid constantly on my bike and I just turned 47 on 8/24. Just yesterday I skidded of flat ground, and smelled burning rubber (NICE!!!!)
Probably 80% of my riding is no hands also, cause that how the cool kids roll lol
Probably 80% of my riding is no hands also, cause that how the cool kids roll lol
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Very well may have been el cheapo, the price wasn't, but maybe the quality was. Decided to go fixed gear after that and never looked back.
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Got any pictures to verify just how cool this kid is?
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First, gorgeous bike. Replace the white with matte black and the saddle and bar tape with tan leather and you've got my dream ride. Second I noticed you don't have front brakes on your bike. I plan on keeping mine and even possibly upgrading to disc brakes. The front brakes are the most important and so even if the coaster brakes totally sucked, I still think I'd be fine. As for not being able to skid I think I'll just have to really spend the time to find the best coaster brake I can before doing this.
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First, gorgeous bike. Replace the white with matte black and the saddle and bar tape with tan leather and you've got my dream ride. Second I noticed you don't have front brakes on your bike. I plan on keeping mine and even possibly upgrading to disc brakes. The front brakes are the most important and so even if the coaster brakes totally sucked, I still think I'd be fine. As for not being able to skid I think I'll just have to really spend the time to find the best coaster brake I can before doing this.
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I was obsessed with this idea 6-7 years ago and could not find a suitable wheelset back then, so I went as far as buying a cheapo coaster hub that would be compatible with a road/track frame. (I got it from a guy in Long Beach that sells as Junky Rusty Bikes, and he still seems to be active on Ebay.) The plan was to get some blingy rim and build it up. I never got around to it, and still have the hub.
So, if you want a custom coaster hub wheel laced to a rim of your choosing, that is also a possibility. Please be aware that most reputable wheelbuilders will not re-lace a previously used rim, both for liability reasons and because it is simply harder to work with.
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I just built this, from parts in my garage. The wheels are nearly identical old Rigida and Nashbar 27x1, with an old Bendix "red band" hub. It's a lot of fun to ride, and I use it for my commute, but I have definitely added a front brake since I took the picture. I think we tend to remember the performance of coaster hubs from when we were kids, and therefore had less mass to stop. The fun factor of the coaster might get old if you're riding in traffic.
@SquidPuppet has commented that the Shimano CB-E110 is a better hub, and his explanation makes sense.
I think if you're going to mess around with oddball hub/rim combinations, it's time to learn how to build a wheel.
@SquidPuppet has commented that the Shimano CB-E110 is a better hub, and his explanation makes sense.
I think if you're going to mess around with oddball hub/rim combinations, it's time to learn how to build a wheel.
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How many spokes does your current rear wheel have?
If it has 36 spokes the rim will be compatible with a Shimano CB-E110 coaster brake hub. You can buy the hub and the "trim kit" that contains some required goodies very inexpensively. Chances are you'd need to buy new spokes at the correct new length and have the shop assemble the wheel using your existing rim. If you take the current wheel apart (very easy) and just bring the hub and rim to the shop, you save a few labor dollars.
If you shop for a complete new wheel, don't buy one that has a Velosteel or KT hub.
If it has 36 spokes the rim will be compatible with a Shimano CB-E110 coaster brake hub. You can buy the hub and the "trim kit" that contains some required goodies very inexpensively. Chances are you'd need to buy new spokes at the correct new length and have the shop assemble the wheel using your existing rim. If you take the current wheel apart (very easy) and just bring the hub and rim to the shop, you save a few labor dollars.
If you shop for a complete new wheel, don't buy one that has a Velosteel or KT hub.
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Anyone legally old enough to interact on Bike Forums should not want to skid perfectly good road tires into an early demise. As a youth I used to ride no hands effortlessly. I see the hipsters doing it now. Effortlessly. Somewhere between 20 and 60... I lost the ability. You can't go home again. Nor should the well adjusted adult need to. I hope this is a troll thread.
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Yes. If you go to Ebay and search for "700c coaster brake", several rear wheels and wheelsets come up. Some of the options are okay: some have Alex, Weinmann, and Origin 8 rims (the usual FG/SS suspects.)
I was obsessed with this idea 6-7 years ago and could not find a suitable wheelset back then, so I went as far as buying a cheapo coaster hub that would be compatible with a road/track frame. (I got it from a guy in Long Beach that sells as Junky Rusty Bikes, and he still seems to be active on Ebay.) The plan was to get some blingy rim and build it up. I never got around to it, and still have the hub.
So, if you want a custom coaster hub wheel laced to a rim of your choosing, that is also a possibility. Please be aware that most reputable wheelbuilders will not re-lace a previously used rim, both for liability reasons and because it is simply harder to work with.
I was obsessed with this idea 6-7 years ago and could not find a suitable wheelset back then, so I went as far as buying a cheapo coaster hub that would be compatible with a road/track frame. (I got it from a guy in Long Beach that sells as Junky Rusty Bikes, and he still seems to be active on Ebay.) The plan was to get some blingy rim and build it up. I never got around to it, and still have the hub.
So, if you want a custom coaster hub wheel laced to a rim of your choosing, that is also a possibility. Please be aware that most reputable wheelbuilders will not re-lace a previously used rim, both for liability reasons and because it is simply harder to work with.
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The origin 8 is looking really good right now. My only concern is the hub width. They label it as 110mm while my current rear is 120. I have no idea what the problems/ compatibility could be. I just said that custom will probably be the end goal but if I can find a relatively cheap set right now, (even just a rear) to see if I like the idea that would probably be the smart option. Thanks for the help!
As far as compatibility, you would more than likely need to add spacers to make up the extra 10mm between the hub width and your frame. I am not especially knowledgeable on the topic, and I'm not sure if there are other issues with spacing a coaster hub vs. a SS/FG hub.
It might be worth a thread in Bicycle Mechanics, if nobody responds here.