baldilocks

I posted some of this in the winter cycling forum. My apologies if you've read this before. The snow has arrived in northern Indiana, and my daily commute has gotten difficult. My normal bike of choice is a ridge mountain bike. I like the feeling I can ride over or thru anything. On one section of my commute, I go over a bridge on the side walk. The road is too dangerous to travel. The first time I crossed the sidewalk on the bridge, the frozen foot prints caused me to fishtail all the way across the bridge. It was a heck of a workout, but I stayed on the bike. It was like going over tightly placed whoop t do's that were kicking my back tire around. Another time I was able to get between the outside wall and the foot prints. I know the other side of the foot prints has large chunks of cement that are now covered with snow. Yesterday and today, I was unable to do either and ended up walking. I think with a fat bike the bumpiness would have less affect on me. Can anyone speak to those kinds of conditions? If possible I would go with a plus bike, but it seems like most people say they aren't fat enough. I really enjoy riding in the winter, but I hate getting off the bike to walk. Other than that stupid bridge, I'm happy with a ridged mountain bike for winter riding. PS, I do think whatever bike I use, I need studded tires. Thanks in advance for your advice.

KLW2

I have a bridge like that here... I walk it.....

baldilocks

If you don't mind me asking, what type of bike do you ride and do you have studded tires?

KLW2

I have a Framed 1x10 no studs. Only ride it in light snow out on the lakes... Not a very useful winter bike. (my opinion)

I built an old Gary Fisher MTB with Nokia Mount & Ground studded tires for winter. Much better in snow/ice.

Hypno Toad

Back in the day when I had a daily commute (I have a home-office today), I had the option of a 26er with studded tires or a non-studded fatbike. I found myself riding the fatbike most of the time because it was fun, even though the 26er was faster. However, the studded tires on the 26er were great for grip on icy rides.

Icy sidepath/sidewalks on bridges suck, I've been on a few of them in this winter here in Minneapolis with a fatbike on studded tires... and you still need to be focused on your line and balance.

My advice to you, get some good studded tires for the mountain bike first, this is a much cheap option than N+1 ... and studded fatbike tires are big $$$

HerrKaLeun

I think i had replied to your other thread about that already. but with any type of vehicle (car, truck, Jeep, bike, bus, bicycle) winter performance will be 99% about the tires, and 1% all the other technology.

For riding with possibility of ice, studded tires are needed unless you see the ice in time and walk etc. this would be true for road bike or fatbike.
if you have snow or other loose or soft ground (i.e. sand) the tire size matters to distribute load (reduce pressure).

So fatbike with studs would be perfect for all around winter with deep snow. but if your paths are plowed (no deep snow), MTB tires with studs will suffice. If you have no ice, or can walk over ice, any tire will work.

And yes, a fatbike is always the answer, regardless of the question. No one here will talk you out of an N+1

baldilocks

I've been riding on icy surfaces with the 26er. The reason I thought the fat bike would help was the icy foot prints create a very uneven and slippery surface. I thought a lg tire under inflated would absorb the uneven terrain while giving better traction. I was also hoping someone would say a plus bike would be fat enough, so I could ride the local trails as well in the summer. Or if someone said they ride over stuff like that all the time with a full fat bike, maybe that's the route. I worked almost 30 years at a outdoor ice rink. Now that the rink is gone, I'm ready to find a new excuse to be outside besides shoveling and snow blowing. I'm also hoping to walk the bike as little as possible.

HerrKaLeun

You are the only one who saw and experienced how uneven and slippery it is. if the patches are what I imagine, the unevenness can be dealt with MTB or plus tire. The slipperiness depends on if the ice is coarse (snow compacted) or black ice (snow melted and re-frozen). If coars, a tire could have enough traction. If smooth, studs required.
also depends on size of the patch, what, 1" or 10'?

you really have to decide for yourself how far you want to go and how extreme the situation is. Is it easier to walk that one bridge, but ride easily the rest of your ride? Because a fat bike will be harder to ride the rest of the ride.

/thread

grizzly59

26" regular mtn bike is pretty good with 2.2 tires and less than normal air, even without studs. I commuted for years in North Dakota on that. I would have gone to studs if there were hills and glare ice, but rough frozen slush was no problem as long as the air pressure was down. Don't touch the front brake unless it's bare pavement. Drop the seat a bit, I think it helps with balance on ice.

Leebo

A mt bike with studded tires is a pretty good option, add fenders and front sus too. I run 2 of them. How long is your commute? Mine is 17 miles. Too long for a fat bike. The studded tires on a fat bike, combined with low pressure would make for a slooooow ride. The fat bike option can be a good one, could always run different wheel sizes.

FrozenK

Have you ever ridden a fat bike?

practical

Do you think the bridge conditions will last all winter? Or will they be gone once it warms up for a few days?

Hypno Toad

I haven't found a ride too long for a fatbike (says the guy that did a sole 140-mile gravel/fatbike ride for his birthday this year)

When I still had an office to commute to, I'd commute 12 miles each way and loved the fatbike. I don't run the ultra low pressure for commuting, save the low pressures for fresh/deep snow. And funny enough some studded fatbike tires are lighter than non-studded tires. (truth in advertising, the light studded tires are big $$$).

All that said, I won't recommend a fatbike strictly for commuting for the vast majority of people. As 26er with studded tires will take care of 90% of winter-commuter's needs. But fatbikes will get you to work with an ear-to-ear grin!

baldilocks

It's actually melted now. I did have my rear wheel slip going up a hill when I hit some black ice. I think I'm looking for an excuse to buy another bike. In April I bought a Giant ATX lite and put some Jones H loop bars on it. I love my new bike and don't want to ride it in the winter. That has me riding my 19 year old Schwinn Mesa. Studded tires and it would probably be OK. I've grown to dislike its grip shifters. But if I'm going to start being a full time winter commuter, I want the best tool for the job. Even If I get the studded tires, the bridge may have me walking again, if it gets bad. Also If I stick with the old Schwinn, I may have to dump some money into it.

Leebo

Have owned one for 3 years, OP says mt bike works for his riding, studded seems to be the answer for him. Pedal a studded tire fat bike with 4.8 tires on a mostly pavement ride at say 6-8 psi, get back to me. YRMV.

FrozenK

Why would I want to ride a 4.8 at 6 psi on asphalt? When I were to commute on a fatbike again, I'd be running Dillinger 4s. Which aren't the fastest tire in the world, but will not slow you down more than 2.3 Ice Spikers or similar tires. I'm not even sure which 4
8 tires are you talking about. The D5s, Cake Eaters, Wazia... are really 4.5 inch tires.

But hey, you've owned one for three years, you are an expert. I've only been riding them since 2008.

Hypno Toad

Leebo

What ev. Just my experience, YRMV. My commute is 17 miles in the Boston area, guessing yours is, wait for it, different? As well as the op. For me, a fat bike for commuting would not be my first choice, and the op said the mt bike works for him, studded tires on the exisiting ride seems to be the answer. Cheers.

jrickards

I challenge the front suspension but maybe it is more particular to this very cold winter. My front suspension has become essentially "frozen" on the cold commutes and even if it hasn't "locked", it is sluggish at best and, unless there are better ones that I have at dealing with cold, I suspect that most will be less suspension-y in the winter.

jrickards

My new fat bike will have (it hasn't arrived yet, dammit!!) studless Vee Snow Avalanche tires but they are stud-capable. I'll see how it does this winter and if I feel the need, I'll purchase studs and install them myself.

Leebo

What front fork are you using? A fox vanilla coil works really well, no air stiction or gummyness. For me in the Boston area, I get lots of frozen rutted ice from the cars and walkers' footprints. Helps with tracking the front wheel a lot. A basic $ 200.00 one won't be up to par, mine is off my old mt bike, more like $500.00 when new.

jrickards

2012 KHS Tempe, about $1,000CDN new

Rock Shox XC-28Mag TK 29er w/alloy steerer, 100mm,Magnesiumlowers,Hydraulic damp, External rebound,TurnKey lockout

Maybe there's a way to loosen it up then, the lock is off but maybe the dampening can be adjusted.

Leebo

Studs work well, I have the 45 XL ones that work nicely.

jrickards

Those are the really nice ones but my store doesn't have any in stock (ok, they do have the 25 pc packages but for 2 tires, that won't be nearly enough!!)