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Stripped nipple in new wheel build

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Old 05-02-18, 05:13 AM
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daveed
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Stripped nipple in new wheel build

As I was truing a newly built wheel I stripped a nipple and can’t back it out (the spoke end prevents putting a screwdriver to it). The spokes are all pretty damn tight at this point. Is it time to grab the wire cutters and sacrifice the stainless steel spoke? FYI: I built the wheel with used spokes, anyway.
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Old 05-02-18, 05:20 AM
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no
once i stripped a nipple, but i needed to tighten it one more small turn.. so i grabbed a pair of small lock jaw clamp pliers

you could use such a tool to unscrew & remove the nipple

Last edited by le mans; 05-02-18 at 05:25 AM.
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Old 05-02-18, 06:29 AM
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Ditto the vise grips.
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Old 05-02-18, 09:18 AM
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The threads are stripped? Or you rounded off the external wrench flats?
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Old 05-02-18, 10:15 AM
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You can put a notch in the center of a screwdriver blade. I've done this when I had to remove a rounded off nipple.

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Old 05-02-18, 02:57 PM
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Remove the tire and rim strip, then remove the nipple from the rim hole and replace it, assuming the spoke isn't protruding through the slot of the nipple.
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Old 05-02-18, 03:04 PM
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Are they aluminum nipples or brass? If the latter, perhaps the universe is trying to tell you that the spokes are too tight already.
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Old 05-02-18, 03:08 PM
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And you might also want to verify that you are using the correct size spoke wrench - it is easy to round off a nipple when it is really tight and your wrench is too large.
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Old 05-02-18, 03:51 PM
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I use vice grips when I have the problem.
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Old 05-02-18, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by davidad
I use vice grips when I have the problem.
Ditto on the vice grips.

Then use splined spokes...solves the rounding off problem. They come in a bunch of nifty colors as well for when you have a color scheme goin'


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Old 05-02-18, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by daveed
As I was truing a newly built wheel I stripped a nipple and can’t back it out (the spoke end prevents putting a screwdriver to it). The spokes are all pretty damn tight at this point. Is it time to grab the wire cutters and sacrifice the stainless steel spoke? FYI: I built the wheel with used spokes, anyway.
You mention that the spoke is sticking out of the end of the bottom of the nipple and all the spokes are tight. One other thing to consider once you get this nipple off is, are the spokes so long that the nipple is trying to thread up beyond the top of the spoke's threads? If this happens, it becomes really hard to turn the nipple and might be a reason that the spoke wrench flats got rounded in the first place.

I also agree w/ the suggestions of using vice-grips and checking to make sure that you've got the right size spoke wrench for the nipples you're using. Good luck and let us know what method worked for future reference!
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Old 05-02-18, 08:28 PM
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I strongly recommend the Cyclus type spoke wrench which grabs 4 sides of the nipple over the slotted Park style wrench. A great $6 investment.
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Old 05-02-18, 11:35 PM
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Vice grips, that's right, i forgot the name. google came up with - lock jaw clamp pliers
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Old 05-03-18, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Kontact
I strongly recommend the Cyclus type spoke wrench which grabs 4 sides of the nipple over the slotted Park style wrench. A great $6 investment.
+1
"4 sided" spoke wrench, lubricate rim holes and spoke threads before building (tightening) and use brass nipples, not aluminium ones.
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Old 05-03-18, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Kontact
I strongly recommend the Cyclus type spoke wrench which grabs 4 sides of the nipple over the slotted Park style wrench. A great $6 investment.
I agree that 4 sided spoke wrenches are better than the slotted wrench. However, Park also makes a 4 sided wreck in two sizes, the SW-40 and SW-42.
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Old 05-03-18, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
Are they aluminum nipples or brass? If the latter, perhaps the universe is trying to tell you that the spokes are too tight already.
Hah! You're right.
Too tight.
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Old 05-03-18, 07:25 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by colorondo
One other thing to consider once you get this nipple off is, are the spokes so long that the nipple is trying to thread up beyond the top of the spoke's threads? If this happens, it becomes really hard to turn the nipple and might be a reason that the spoke wrench flats got rounded in the first place.
Yes. The longish nipples thread up beyond the spoke threads, making it difficult (for me, in any case) to judge tension as I true the wheel (I've since un-tensioned the spokes). Would switching to shorter brass nips for this project make sense?
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Old 05-03-18, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by daveed
Yes. The longish nipples thread up beyond the spoke threads, making it difficult (for me, in any case) to judge tension as I true the wheel (I've since un-tensioned the spokes). Would switching to shorter brass nips for this project make sense?
No, if the spoke is protruding beyond the end of the nipple, it means the spoke is too long. Changing the nipple length will not fix this.
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Old 05-03-18, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
No, if the spoke is protruding beyond the end of the nipple, it means the spoke is too long. Changing the nipple length will not fix this.
The spoke is not protruding, just coming close to. The spoke calc suggested 298.2mm; I grabbed 298s. I suppose 296s would have done as well.
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Old 05-04-18, 12:56 AM
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Should have used double square or squorx nipples. Tension from the top. And lube your threads. The slotted head nipples are 1800s technology.
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