alarsen77

Hi guys I have a Cannondale CAAD Optimo Disc 105 that has the stock Maddux RD 2.0 wheels on it with Continental Contact Plus 32c tires. I do mostly paved/hardpack rail trail bike path riding. I am thinking about getting a new wheelset as I have heard that is the best bang for you buck in terms of upgrades. I really don't want to spend a huge amount of money right now maybe in the $400 price point if possible. I do weigh around 260 right now but have been losing weight and hope to be down to 220 by the fall time. I would love the advice of you guys as this is my first road bike and I don't even know where to start. I was looking at the Mavic Aksium that comes on the CAAD 12 but wasn't sure if that would be an upgrade or a side step? I also noticed they aren't tubeless ready which would be nice to have so if I did want to go tubeless I would have the option.

rubiksoval

Tires and tubes are the best bang for your buck. Way more significant than wheels.

$100 bucks will buy you a pair of GP4000s and latex tubes. A little more will get you Michelin Power Comps or Vittoria Corsa Speeds.

If you want bang for your buck in terms of speed, that'll make you faster than a $3000 pair of carbon wheels. $400 isn't going to get you much of anything better than what you already have, unless you're building yourself up something, and even then it'd just be lighter, but not necessarily faster.

I wouldn't worry with wheels. I'd worry with tires and tubes.

alarsen77

Hmm ok, Well I just got the tires that are on the bike so I would have something that was a little more robust for the rail trails here in the area. I am actually quite happy with the way they ride compared to the Schwalbe Luganos that came on the bike. But maybe I do give a more road specific tire a try too. This was what was suggested to me by my lbs that I bought the bike from as a good all around tire for the area here. I guess I will wait to do anything with wheels until I have more of a budget.

I believe they used a regular bontrager tube as that is what they stock.

rubiksoval

Even with more of a budget, for performance, tires and tubes are more important. The rolling resistance of the setups I mentioned versus what you're probably riding significantly impacts your speed. And it's faster everywhere. Uphill, downhill, in a draft, out of one, etc.

People tend to ignore tubes and tires because it's not nearly as noticeable as a pair of wheels, but the performance impact is a lot more significant. I'd much rather ride a pair of $400 al wheels with fast tubes and tires, than a $2000 pair of carbon wheels with slow tires. And I'd go faster, too.

Maybe not something to worry about now, but in the future, if you're still looking for performance gains from equipment, that'd be the first place I'd look. Wheels would be one of the last, after powermeters, cranksets, and handlebars.

alarsen77

Well I guess I was just thinking something that might be better performing up hills as that is where I struggle the most being new to cycling and overweight still. So I am starting to wonder if the Continental Contact Plus tires they sold me are a bit much for the riding I do which I would say is going to end up being 75% paved road with the occasional hardpack dirt or very light gravel section of trail here and there.

WhyFi

Unless your existing wheels are problematic, I don't think you're going to see a meaningful performance improvement. If your existing wheels are on the piggy side, going to something lighter might feel more fun an responsive, but again, it probably isn't going to translate to the stop watch.

If you're breaking spokes or you really want to go tubeless, then I'd be all about the change. Fulcrum has a few wheelsets that would be well within budget (purchase overseas, at vendors like Merlin Cycles). Just be sure that they're tubeless compatible (they call it Two-Way Fit) because some of the older, non-tubeless models are still out there and double check to see if they have any weight restrictions.

I agree that good tires are a good place to start.

alarsen77

So do you think the GP 4000 S II tires would be a good place to start and would they be ok on hardpack dirt? Also how is the durability for that? I would go with the 28c tires as that would be closest to the 32c tires I have now.

WhyFi

They have a good reputation for flat protection, wear/durability, and performance. Some people have sworn them off after having problems with sidewall tears, where others have never encountered that problem (I've never had that problem, but I've only gone through 4-5 sets). They would be fine on hardpack dirt and fine gravel.

alarsen77

Hmm, I'm kind of wishing the LBS would have recommended those instead of what they did. Do you think there will be a huge difference in ride/comfort going from the 32c Contact Plus to a 28c GP 4000 S II?

alarsen77

I guess this would be a good time to perfect my tire changing skills. I have never actually had to change a tire yet so I guess if I do order the 28c GP 4000 S II I will get to give it a try. Which tubes do you guys recommend for that size tire?

Also would Latex tubes really be worth it for a bike that I am not racing and is just for everyday rides for enjoyment/fitness? Don't latex tubes have less durability and more prone to flats?

rubiksoval

No, I'd say they wouldn't be worth it for you, though durability isn't an issue and they tend to be less prone to flats provided they're installed correctly. And the installation needs to be absolutely perfect, and you'll likely need to retape your rims with tubeless tape before hand, too.

And you'll need to pump them up everyday, as they lose air more quickly than butyl.

So for your situation, no. For a bang-for-the-buck performance standpoint, though, emphatic yes.

In all honesty, I wouldn't bother with the tires, either. You asked about performance and bang for the buck, so my initial answer in regards to that is still true, but for your riding state and experience, neither of those are going to make a difference that would be worth changing things out. Go out and ride for a year or two, try some training routines, lose the weight, then reevaluate what you're looking for. And then, if you're wanting to start milking speed everywhere, go spend some extra money.

alarsen77

I was starting to think the same thing actually. I'm also thinking about switching my Lezyne Super GPS for a Wahoo Bolt I just like the look and screen on the bolt more but again seems like it may be a side step as well. My birthday is coming up and was thinking of things for the bike.

motosonic

Here's my 2 cents. Those Aksium wheels are the entry level Mavic Wheels. My assumption is they're pretty much the same as what you're riding on now. An AWESOME wheel in that Pricepoint is the Shimano RS81 series, if you can find some. I have a couple sets and they're fantastic. Durable, roll fast, low maintenance and quite light.

As far as tires/tubes go. Latex tubes are a good choice, but the conti gp 4000 are NOT durable tires... Unless you're talking those gatorskins of the 4 seasons. The side walls are as thin as a condom. I've had several pair and stopped riding them all-together. Another good durable tire is the Maxxis Re-Fuse. Those are about as bulletproof as a tire gets and they're good in gravel, etc.

HTupolev

If the gravel you're riding is loose or rocky and the tire sidewalls are being exposed a lot to the riding surface, then you may have use for tough sidewalls. Otherwise, a good racing tire can handle lots of gravel just fine; I'd go as far as to say that a lack of puncture protection under the tread is often less of an issue on gravel than on road, since most gravel is low-traffic and therefore less likely to be covered in glass and sharp bits of metal and stuff than paved roads are. If what you've got is smooth hardpack, then a good racing tire should be fine, and would be a very large improvement to performance and feel over the very beefy touring tires you've got now.

As far as wheels, I'll agree with everyone saying that a new $400 aluminum pair likely won't make much difference unless your current wheels are badly-behaved in some way.

alarsen77

I don't think they are badly behaved that I can tell. I am still getting used to a road bike. I can feel the responsiveness of the handling and it feels almost a bit twitchy and insecure at times. I guess I still have to get used to a road bike. Maybe also need to tweak the fit a little bit. I still don't feel comfortable and stable out of the saddle on the road bike.

Mike F

Im thinking about Roval SLX 24's to replace my Dt Swiss 470's. $750 but 1515g for a disk wheel is pretty good without breaking the bank.

TrojanHorse

I know people love those lightweight wheels like shamino RS81 but what you wrote right there wouldn't make me feel super comfy recommending those to you.

I'd probably say enjoy what you've got until you're 220, and then you have a lot more options.

If you want presents for your bike (who doesn't!) you can always get some shoes / pedals, a power meter, new GPS (why not?!) or take that $400 and your bike and go book a hotel room somewhere and do a riding vacation.

alarsen77

So I was actually thinking about a power meter but seeing as I am not a professional and it would be only for my purposes to get a healthier and do a little bit of tracking maybe I keep the Lezyne computer and look for a power meter I could use. Do you have any recommendations for one that won't break the bank? Ideally I would like to stay closer to the $250-$300 mark. I was thinking with the wheels I could take the $200 or so I'd probably get for my birthday and then sell the wheels I have now for something to put towards better wheels. But with the power meter it will be a pure expense.

TrojanHorse

Ah, well then... the lowest I've seen (new) power meters would be 4iiii single sided models, and you're still looking at 360.

You could sell the wheels, get the power meter and then just look at the bike.

alarsen77

Well $360 might not be completely out of the realm of possibility. I don't think I really need to do a dual sided power meter.

alarsen77

I may end up just doing pedals, shoes and a heart rate monitor strap. I haven't gone to clipless pedals yet because there are times we do take the bikes on a trip where we will be walking around and not having to carry two pairs of shoes would be nice. I also don't have an easy place to practice clipping in and out.

HTupolev

Have you considered recessed-cleat clipless, like SPD? With the right shoe they're quite walkable, and they're very resilient to getting clogged with gunk. Some pedals for them, like the M324 or M530, are made with a platform side so you can comfortably do things either way (and this can actually make starting from a stop with clipless less clumsy, because if your foot lands on the platform side, you just pedal until you're comfortable to to clip in).

rubiksoval

I train and race on GP4000s. Have 2k miles on the ones on my bike now and they're still good. Also had no side wall issues in the last 10,000 or so miles with other pairs, either.

Gatorskins are one of the worst rolling tires possible. They're essentially a parachute for your wheels, as are any "armored/durable" tire type.

rubiksoval

He could sell the wheels (though he's very unlikely to get someone to buy them if they're entry level, and it's not really a bad idea to have a backup pair), and buy a used Powertap wheelset! Win/WIN!

Powertap G3 are pretty good and can be built into multiple configurations. New ones have a solid enough warranty (3 years?) and the data is very good.

alarsen77

I have thought about SPD pedals I was actually looking at the Shimano A530 pedals.