Need Strong Nipples! (no pun int)
#1
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Need Strong Nipples! (no pun int)
So I ordered a batch of crappy DT Swiss nips for a build without reading the amazon reviews. Yep, once I got the tension going on my Hed C2/DT Comp Spokes - a couple of the nips stripped, the black stripped off almost immediately. The metal seems too soft. Now I have to take apart the whole thing again! UGH. Recommend me some kick-a nips!
#2
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Use a real spoke wrench, not a screw driver.
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Odd, brass nipples are usually considered good.
How long are your spokes?
On the rear (multi-speed), one usually does longer spokes on the right, and shorter (2mm shorter?) on the left.
Length of the spoke should extend 100% though the nipple, and up to the top of the groove when tightened, at least for double wall rims.
I'm not seeing enlarged photos, but the spokes appear too short in that review you linked.
How long are your spokes?
On the rear (multi-speed), one usually does longer spokes on the right, and shorter (2mm shorter?) on the left.
Length of the spoke should extend 100% though the nipple, and up to the top of the groove when tightened, at least for double wall rims.
I'm not seeing enlarged photos, but the spokes appear too short in that review you linked.
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I haven't bought black brass nipples. Any black nipple I've used was anodized aluminum.
There are methods of achieving black chrome.
https://www.bendplating.com/black-chrome-vs-black-pvd/
Black Chrome Plating | Black Chrome Plating Suppliers | Metal Plating Company | Arlington Plating Company
However, I wonder if the nipples you got were simply painted.
There are methods of achieving black chrome.
https://www.bendplating.com/black-chrome-vs-black-pvd/
Black Chrome Plating | Black Chrome Plating Suppliers | Metal Plating Company | Arlington Plating Company
However, I wonder if the nipples you got were simply painted.
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Well, to be fair, the Amazon guy was a dumbass. The screwdriver flats are only for getting the nipple threaded on most of the way. They are NOT for final tensioning.
#6
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Get one of these: https://www.wheelfanatyk.com/store/pk-lie-spoke-wrench/
#7
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I haven't bought black brass nipples. Any black nipple I've used was anodized aluminum.
There are methods of achieving black chrome.
https://www.bendplating.com/black-chrome-vs-black-pvd/
Black Chrome Plating | Black Chrome Plating Suppliers | Metal Plating Company | Arlington Plating Company
However, I wonder if the nipples you got were simply painted.
There are methods of achieving black chrome.
https://www.bendplating.com/black-chrome-vs-black-pvd/
Black Chrome Plating | Black Chrome Plating Suppliers | Metal Plating Company | Arlington Plating Company
However, I wonder if the nipples you got were simply painted.
Yeah, screwdrivers used in the flats. I got a used bike that I wanted to change the hub on, but keep the spokes and nipples. The spoke heads were destroyed at the flats. I assume the machine building the wheels was a fault there.
edit: my used bike's spoke heads were even worse than in the Amazon review. Yeah, that reviewer wasn't using a spoke wrench- that tool is only for getting the nipples started.
Last edited by Geekage; 03-20-19 at 03:35 PM.
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Black Brass Nipples.
Hmm... good name for a punk band?
Hmm... good name for a punk band?
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One can buy brass hex head nipples.
For example Sapim Brand which does also come in black.
https://www.jejamescycles.com/sapim-...r-tmm8539.html
Then it would be a matter of finding a socket or nut driver that would fit into the spoke holes and fit the nipples.
Some brands also have a square drive, or reverse torx drive which might play better with the spoke holes in double walled rims.
For example Sapim Brand which does also come in black.
https://www.jejamescycles.com/sapim-...r-tmm8539.html
Then it would be a matter of finding a socket or nut driver that would fit into the spoke holes and fit the nipples.
Some brands also have a square drive, or reverse torx drive which might play better with the spoke holes in double walled rims.
#10
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Do you have a wheel building machine? I believe that's what those above are for, .... .in double wall rims..
I just use Brass. nips ,
they're strong enough to over tighten & crack your rim.. dont need more than that ...
I just use Brass. nips ,
they're strong enough to over tighten & crack your rim.. dont need more than that ...
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I've used DT nickel-plated brass nipples for 40 years and never had stripped threads. Any problem I've had was my fault: I have rounded a few of them (using wrong spoke wrench) and had a few pop off when tensioning (Don't use 14g nipples for 15g spokes),
One star reviews on Amazon are entertaining. Kinda like preliminary qualification for competing for the Darwin award.
One star reviews on Amazon are entertaining. Kinda like preliminary qualification for competing for the Darwin award.
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Get one of these: https://www.wheelfanatyk.com/store/pk-lie-spoke-wrench/
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Unless I'm misunderstanding, this is backwards, right? To use non-ambiguous terminology, wouldn't a dished rear wheel use shorter spokes on the drive side ("right") and longer spokes on the non-drive side ("left")?
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Right and left are ambiguous and depend on what angle you are viewing the bike. Drive Side and non-Drive side are non-ambiguous and should be used. Yes, you are correct. Dished wheels will usually have shorter spokes on the drive side; however there may be some really odd configuration (e.g. shaft drive) where that may not be the case.
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Right and left are ambiguous and depend on what angle you are viewing the bike. Drive Side and non-Drive side are non-ambiguous and should be used. Yes, you are correct. Dished wheels will usually have shorter spokes on the drive side; however there may be some really odd configuration (e.g. shaft drive) where that may not be the case.
As for any variants away from using shorter spokes on the right side of the wheel, they are rare enough as to be nonexistent.
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I’ll have to disagree. Bikes are directional with a defined front/rear and right/left. That makes right and left unambiguous. By convention, we put the drive side on the right on all bikes.
As for any variants away from using shorter spokes on the right side of the wheel, they are rare enough as to be nonexistent.
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Yes, bikes are directional and most would assume that right and left are defined by a viewer facing in the direction that bikes travel; however this is still an assumption and thus injects ambiguity. Using DS and NDS in the context of the posed question makes no assumptions and therefore is clearly unambiguous. Also, there are more left side drive bikes than you may imagine, so DS and NDS eliminate any confusion.
But there would be no need to discuss shorter spokes in the that case above for a couple of reasons. First, the bike has only a trivially dished wheel since it is a track bike. Different spoke lengths aren’t necessary for a single speed wheel. Second, does the wheel on that bike even have spokes? I can’t tell if the wheel is a cover or not.
My point is still valid. There is no ambiguity with using “right” and “left” sides of bicycles.
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When sailing we use port and starboard to eliminate the ambiguity of right and left. Port and starboard are linked by definition to the orientation of the vessel while left and right are relative to the orientation of the viewer. Telling a crew member to move toward starboard will assure the desired result regardless of which direction he or she is facing.
Yes you would be correct that most people (including me) will, under most circumstances, understand what you mean by the right side of a bike. Your argument seems to be that "all" people, under "all" circumstances, will understand and that simply is not completely reliable. It's not splitting hairs when commenting on the difference between 95% reliable vs. 100%.
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When sailing we use port and starboard to eliminate the ambiguity of right and left. Port and starboard are linked by definition to the orientation of the vessel while left and right are relative to the orientation of the viewer. Telling a crew member to move toward starboard will assure the desired result regardless of which direction he or she is facing.
Yes you would be correct that most people (including me) will, under most circumstances, understand what you mean by the right side of a bike. Your argument seems to be that "all" people, under "all" circumstances, will understand and that simply is not completely reliable. It's not splitting hairs when commenting on the difference between 95% reliable vs. 100%.
I would put the rate of left hand drive bicycles that anyone might encounter at far less than 0.0000001% of bicycles. That’s low enough that I’m on very firm ground saying that “all” bicycles have right hand drive.
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Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
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Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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Adding to the urinating contest: the bike in the pic is single speed, so any spokes, if used, can be of equal length - minimum dishing.
I like Unior spoke keys - they are relatively cheap and fit very well:
Unior d.d. | Hand tools
As for nipples - Sapim, or DT swiss brass ones are both excellent in my experience.
I like Unior spoke keys - they are relatively cheap and fit very well:
Unior d.d. | Hand tools
As for nipples - Sapim, or DT swiss brass ones are both excellent in my experience.