ISO and for trade thread part 5
#1576
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#1578
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#1579
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EDIT: SOLVED
ISO: Member with a lathe willing to recreate a tapered centering cone for a VAR 32 facing tool,
or someone with an orphaned original cone from a VAR 32,
or someone with a cone-shaped piece of steel with a 16mm bore that'll fit just perfectly on the VAR 32.
Cone has a 16mm ID bore; cone taper should be about 1-1/2" at its widest so I can face 1-1/8" headtubes in addition to 1".
Will also trade the tool as it sits for the Park equivalent, though I don't see why one would.
-Kurt
ISO: Member with a lathe willing to recreate a tapered centering cone for a VAR 32 facing tool,
or someone with an orphaned original cone from a VAR 32,
or someone with a cone-shaped piece of steel with a 16mm bore that'll fit just perfectly on the VAR 32.
Cone has a 16mm ID bore; cone taper should be about 1-1/2" at its widest so I can face 1-1/8" headtubes in addition to 1".
Will also trade the tool as it sits for the Park equivalent, though I don't see why one would.
-Kurt
Last edited by cudak888; 09-26-19 at 05:43 AM.
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Did you find anything yet? While looking for a set of tires today I uncovered a box with a couple of cranksets that are pretty close to what you're describing. I've got a nice looking Origin8 crank with a 130 BCD and a Bulletproof with a 110 BCD that's kind of chunky but would look good if you wiped off the fading logo. Both are 165 though. I've also got a first generation Chorus crank, which is 170, but maybe that's more "decent" than you have in mind?
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#1581
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ISO: Member with a lathe willing to recreate a tapered centering cone for a VAR 32 facing tool,
or someone with an orphaned original cone from a VAR 32,
or someone with a cone-shaped piece of steel with a 16mm bore that'll fit just perfectly on the VAR 32.
Cone has a 16mm ID bore; cone taper should be about 1-1/2" at its widest so I can face 1-1/8" headtubes in addition to 1".
-Kurt
or someone with an orphaned original cone from a VAR 32,
or someone with a cone-shaped piece of steel with a 16mm bore that'll fit just perfectly on the VAR 32.
Cone has a 16mm ID bore; cone taper should be about 1-1/2" at its widest so I can face 1-1/8" headtubes in addition to 1".
-Kurt
https://www.rosebikes.ie/cyclus-tool...ng-cone-713663
https://www.merlincycles.com/cyclus-...mer-92158.html
As you can see, they are shaped differently. And my Cyclus looks different than the ones available.
#1582
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@gearbasher - The 2” cone looks perfect. Thanks for letting me know. Will order one ASAP.
EDIT: Ordered. Thanks again!
EDIT: Ordered. Thanks again!
Last edited by cudak888; 09-26-19 at 05:43 AM.
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Went to my co-op tonight and scored a pair of Montreal wheels laced onto a set of nothing special track hubs. Willing to trade to anyone who would like this set-up. I'm too far past riding a track/freewheel set of wheels, but couldn't let these get away. Smiles, MH
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Are these tubular like I think?
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Yes, I haven't put them on the truing stand or anything, I just got home. One tyre with the set. Smiles, MH
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ISO: Winter 2008 issue of Bicycle Quarterly (the bicycle brake special). BQ 26; Vol 7 No 2. It's nearly 20 bucks with shipping on their website -- hoping to be able to support a C&Ver who would like to sell (or even loan!) a back issue.
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Currently looking for a couple of Sun M14A rims in the 559mm and the 406mm sizes in the polished finish for a recumbent rebuild.
Let me know what you need for them. I have a little bit of everything.
budzos
Let me know what you need for them. I have a little bit of everything.
budzos
Last edited by budzos; 09-27-19 at 09:12 AM.
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ISO Shimano crank arms
I am looking for Ultegra 6500 crank arms in 170 mm length. I have, for trade, both 6400 and 6500 in 175 mm length. I do not need chain rings but would be OK with them being part of a deal. I also have chain rings in both 130 and 110 bcd. I would like to make a trade but would purchase if need be. I also have some saddles, stems, handlebars I could use for trade. I can post or send pictures for anyone that has interest. Thanks for any help.
#1590
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ISO: Member with a lathe willing to recreate a tapered centering cone for a VAR 32 facing tool,
or someone with an orphaned original cone from a VAR 32,
or someone with a cone-shaped piece of steel with a 16mm bore that'll fit just perfectly on the VAR 32.
Cone has a 16mm ID bore; cone taper should be about 1-1/2" at its widest so I can face 1-1/8" headtubes in addition to 1".
-Kurt
or someone with an orphaned original cone from a VAR 32,
or someone with a cone-shaped piece of steel with a 16mm bore that'll fit just perfectly on the VAR 32.
Cone has a 16mm ID bore; cone taper should be about 1-1/2" at its widest so I can face 1-1/8" headtubes in addition to 1".
-Kurt
I replaced the reamer/cutter below the facing cutter on my VAR 32 with a brass bushing. Took about 10 minutes to make on a lathe.
Problem is the cutter is designed to cut the head tube to 30.x mm diameter on a newly built frame.
When refacing the head tube it frequently (most of the time) enlarges the bores in the head tube. The brass bushing eliminates the problem.
verktyg
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#1591
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Kurt, slightly different topic.
I replaced the reamer/cutter below the facing cutter on my VAR 32 with a brass bushing. Took about 10 minutes to make on a lathe.
Problem is the cutter is designed to cut the head tube to 30.x mm diameter on a newly built frame.
When refacing the head tube it frequently (most of the time) enlarges the bores in the head tube. The brass bushing eliminates the problem.
I replaced the reamer/cutter below the facing cutter on my VAR 32 with a brass bushing. Took about 10 minutes to make on a lathe.
Problem is the cutter is designed to cut the head tube to 30.x mm diameter on a newly built frame.
When refacing the head tube it frequently (most of the time) enlarges the bores in the head tube. The brass bushing eliminates the problem.
Do let me know...
-Kurt
#1592
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Not a different topic at all - I've already noted this issue and was going to put the 1" reamer on the tool to clear the 1-1/8" headtube I have to face - but I do not have a solution for 1" yet. Any chance I can *ahem* influence you to make another? Pretty please?
Do let me know...
-Kurt
Do let me know...
-Kurt
He is a master machinist and has the tools/lathe to get a nice bushing for you.
Bill
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#1593
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I have the issue but won't part with it. I could scan an article from it if you want something specific.
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@cudak888, if Chas isn't up to making another shoot me a PM, I'll talk to our gen'l. supt. about making you one like Chas's.
He is a master machinist and has the tools/lathe to get a nice bushing for you.
Bill
He is a master machinist and has the tools/lathe to get a nice bushing for you.
Bill
-Kurt
#1595
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Trade 56cm Peugeot PS(N)-10 for something smaller
I picked this bike up at an estate sale, cleaned it up and rebuilt bearings and, it’s too large for me.
New tires, bar tape and brake pads. Reynolds 531 tubing 3 main tubes plus fork.
Id consider a trade for a road bike in the 54 cm range, or an interesting mountain bike. Thanks!
New tires, bar tape and brake pads. Reynolds 531 tubing 3 main tubes plus fork.
Id consider a trade for a road bike in the 54 cm range, or an interesting mountain bike. Thanks!
#1596
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I picked this bike up at an estate sale, cleaned it up and rebuilt bearings and, it’s too large for me.
New tires, bar tape and brake pads. Reynolds 531 tubing 3 main tubes plus fork.
Id consider a trade for a road bike in the 54 cm range, or an interesting mountain bike. Thanks!
New tires, bar tape and brake pads. Reynolds 531 tubing 3 main tubes plus fork.
Id consider a trade for a road bike in the 54 cm range, or an interesting mountain bike. Thanks!
-Kurt
#1597
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ISO a Brooks B72 in halfway decent condition, or a re-cover. Do they not make them anymore?? The leather of the one on my tandem just gave up the ghost, right after my stoker commented on it being a great saddle for her. The frame is fine, but I don't even remember if anyone does re-covers of these saddles anymore. Does anyone know?
Would trade my machining skills to make some part or doing a little TIG Welding or brazing some small things onto a frame, Gugie style. Or parts/racks/frames from my collection. I'm located in the Boston area, but willing to ship and/or be shipped some things.
Would trade my machining skills to make some part or doing a little TIG Welding or brazing some small things onto a frame, Gugie style. Or parts/racks/frames from my collection. I'm located in the Boston area, but willing to ship and/or be shipped some things.
Last edited by scarlson; 09-30-19 at 10:55 PM.
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ISO - Stronglight or Ofmega/SR crank arm set
Hi folks,
I’m looking for some vintage Stronglight (93/105) or SR/Ofmega with 118 BCD crankset arms or complete CS for a late 70s sport tourer that I’m redoing. I need both DS & NDS in 170mm length with English pedal threads in reasonable condition. I would also consider a Stronglight 104 as long as it’s not stamped “Peugeot”. I have good 52/42 chain rings in both BCDs, but could use 40 or 38 tooth in either.
For trade I have Suntour Cyclone & VXGT RDs as well as some front derailleurs. I also have Modolo anatomic bars (40cm) and aero stem (10cm) with plug. The bars have two groves on each side for running cables under the tape.
To contact me, it is best to PM or e-mail.
Thanks and regards,
Van
AKA: Senior Ryder 00
I’m looking for some vintage Stronglight (93/105) or SR/Ofmega with 118 BCD crankset arms or complete CS for a late 70s sport tourer that I’m redoing. I need both DS & NDS in 170mm length with English pedal threads in reasonable condition. I would also consider a Stronglight 104 as long as it’s not stamped “Peugeot”. I have good 52/42 chain rings in both BCDs, but could use 40 or 38 tooth in either.
For trade I have Suntour Cyclone & VXGT RDs as well as some front derailleurs. I also have Modolo anatomic bars (40cm) and aero stem (10cm) with plug. The bars have two groves on each side for running cables under the tape.
To contact me, it is best to PM or e-mail.
Thanks and regards,
Van
AKA: Senior Ryder 00
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#1599
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ISO a Brooks B72 in halfway decent condition, or a re-cover. Do they not make them anymore?? The leather of the one on my tandem just gave up the ghost, right after my stoker commented on it being a great saddle for her. The frame is fine, but I don't even remember if anyone does re-covers of these saddles anymore. Does anyone know?
Would trade my machining skills to make some part or doing a little TIG Welding or brazing some small things onto a frame, Gugie style. Or parts/racks/frames from my collection. I'm located in the Boston area, but willing to ship and/or be shipped some things.
Would trade my machining skills to make some part or doing a little TIG Welding or brazing some small things onto a frame, Gugie style. Or parts/racks/frames from my collection. I'm located in the Boston area, but willing to ship and/or be shipped some things.
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Finally finished building the front wheel that's going on my wife's Miyata 1000, and was moving on to the next set, destined for the '73 RRA. As I was putting in the 8th spoke on the driveside rear, I noticed a small but critical detail. The hubs are 32 hole (I had it in my head that they were 36), and the rims are 36 hole. I have other 36 hole hubs, but I really want to use the SunTour Superbe Pro hubs that I acquired after making an appeal quite a ways upthread.
Sooooo... I'm in need of some respectable quality, in good (or better) shape, pair of silver 32 hole 700c clincher rims that I can put 32mm tires on without it looking wrong. If you have something you're in need of, there's a chance I may have it, but barring that, I may be reduced to exchanging images of famous individuals from American history for them. Note that I am going to be a bit picky about rim condition. A few scratches or labels starting to peel at the edges might be ok, but braking surfaces need to be free of defects.
Thanks,
Z
Sooooo... I'm in need of some respectable quality, in good (or better) shape, pair of silver 32 hole 700c clincher rims that I can put 32mm tires on without it looking wrong. If you have something you're in need of, there's a chance I may have it, but barring that, I may be reduced to exchanging images of famous individuals from American history for them. Note that I am going to be a bit picky about rim condition. A few scratches or labels starting to peel at the edges might be ok, but braking surfaces need to be free of defects.
Thanks,
Z
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Last edited by USAZorro; 10-01-19 at 06:50 AM.