Anyone have the 2020 Specialized Turbo Vado 3.0?
#1
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Anyone have the 2020 Specialized Turbo Vado 3.0?
It's only $2700.
Specs are lacking on Specialized website. I test rode it, and really liked it. Seems to handle hills, but what's the realistic range?
Specs are lacking on Specialized website. I test rode it, and really liked it. Seems to handle hills, but what's the realistic range?
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I ordered one yesterday. Should have it by the end of the month. It is class 3 after the firmware update. LBS said it's a non issue.
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I've now got 600 miles on it. It's great! It's easy to maintain 23-25 mph in high setting. Gets me home on 100°+ days without being totally exhausted. (17.5 mi each way commute)
The battery gets about 25 mi on high, 35mi on medium. (I'm assuming about 50 on low, but I haven't had a reason to use that setting)
I never ran the battery lower than 20%. I charge at work.
I get my estimates using miles ridden vs percentage left on battery. On high setting, I have about 30% charge left after a 17.5 mi ride. On Medium setting, I have about 50% charge remaining on 17.5 mi ride.
The only thing I needed to replace was the saddle. I have a Brooks Flyer that is my go to saddle. Some more handlebar sweep-back would be nice, but not necessary.
The battery gets about 25 mi on high, 35mi on medium. (I'm assuming about 50 on low, but I haven't had a reason to use that setting)
I never ran the battery lower than 20%. I charge at work.
I get my estimates using miles ridden vs percentage left on battery. On high setting, I have about 30% charge left after a 17.5 mi ride. On Medium setting, I have about 50% charge remaining on 17.5 mi ride.
The only thing I needed to replace was the saddle. I have a Brooks Flyer that is my go to saddle. Some more handlebar sweep-back would be nice, but not necessary.
Last edited by restlessswind; 09-10-19 at 03:22 PM.
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I've now got 600 miles on it. It's great! It's easy to maintain 23-25 mph in high setting. Gets me home on 100°+ days without being totally exhausted. (17.5 mi each way commute)
The battery gets about 25 mi on high, 35mi on medium. (I'm assuming about 50 on low, but I haven't had a reason to use that setting)
I never ran the battery lower than 20%. I charge at work.
I get my estimates using miles ridden vs percentage left on battery. On high setting, I have about 30% charge left after a 17.5 mi ride. On Medium setting, I have about 50% charge remaining on 17.5 mi ride.
The only thing I needed to replace was the saddle. I have a Brooks Flyer that is my go to saddle. Some more handlebar sweep-back would be nice, but not necessary.
The battery gets about 25 mi on high, 35mi on medium. (I'm assuming about 50 on low, but I haven't had a reason to use that setting)
I never ran the battery lower than 20%. I charge at work.
I get my estimates using miles ridden vs percentage left on battery. On high setting, I have about 30% charge left after a 17.5 mi ride. On Medium setting, I have about 50% charge remaining on 17.5 mi ride.
The only thing I needed to replace was the saddle. I have a Brooks Flyer that is my go to saddle. Some more handlebar sweep-back would be nice, but not necessary.
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#7
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Totally. I am ok with the stock seatpost with the sprung saddle. I use the stock saddle on a suspension post on my other bike, and it is hard on the sit bones, but still better than many other saddles out there.
#8
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I ran over what must have been a bottle neck in the bike lane. Slit the tire open. So, I couldn't find a replacemnt Trigger Sport Reflective locally in stock, so I bought a pair of Bontrager H5 lite 45C. These were similar to the ones on my Verve+ and ride very smooth. But I get about 10% less range than with the Triggers. Really???
#9
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I've now got 600 miles on it. It's great! It's easy to maintain 23-25 mph in high setting. Gets me home on 100°+ days without being totally exhausted. (17.5 mi each way commute)
The battery gets about 25 mi on high, 35mi on medium. (I'm assuming about 50 on low, but I haven't had a reason to use that setting)
I never ran the battery lower than 20%. I charge at work.
I get my estimates using miles ridden vs percentage left on battery. On high setting, I have about 30% charge left after a 17.5 mi ride. On Medium setting, I have about 50% charge remaining on 17.5 mi ride.
The only thing I needed to replace was the saddle. I have a Brooks Flyer that is my go to saddle. Some more handlebar sweep-back would be nice, but not necessary.
The battery gets about 25 mi on high, 35mi on medium. (I'm assuming about 50 on low, but I haven't had a reason to use that setting)
I never ran the battery lower than 20%. I charge at work.
I get my estimates using miles ridden vs percentage left on battery. On high setting, I have about 30% charge left after a 17.5 mi ride. On Medium setting, I have about 50% charge remaining on 17.5 mi ride.
The only thing I needed to replace was the saddle. I have a Brooks Flyer that is my go to saddle. Some more handlebar sweep-back would be nice, but not necessary.
I had the use of an older Vado (2.0?) for a couple days. It was limited to 20mph and after my two days on it and probably 50+ miles of riding, mostly in the lowest boost setting, there was a considerable amount of battery left. Like any electric vehicle, lots of things that affect the range. So maybe it wouldn't be an issue for me, but "range anxiety" is definitely a factor I wouldn't look forward to!
#10
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Any possibility that you could rent or borrow one to ride on that route first? See how that range holds out
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I'm looking at a Vado 4.0 for next year, but now I'm concerned about your range report. I don't commute, but would want to ride it on routes that can easily be 40+ miles. I'm guessing that the issue, though, is that you're riding it at 23-25 mph at a higher boost level, and I doubt I'd crank it up that high most of the time, especially since I'd be on MUPs and rail-trails.
I had the use of an older Vado (2.0?) for a couple days. It was limited to 20mph and after my two days on it and probably 50+ miles of riding, mostly in the lowest boost setting, there was a considerable amount of battery left. Like any electric vehicle, lots of things that affect the range. So maybe it wouldn't be an issue for me, but "range anxiety" is definitely a factor I wouldn't look forward to!
I had the use of an older Vado (2.0?) for a couple days. It was limited to 20mph and after my two days on it and probably 50+ miles of riding, mostly in the lowest boost setting, there was a considerable amount of battery left. Like any electric vehicle, lots of things that affect the range. So maybe it wouldn't be an issue for me, but "range anxiety" is definitely a factor I wouldn't look forward to!
I learned that Trek will offer auxiliary batteries to be mounted to the bottle cage braze-ons on their new 2020 models.
#12
Road Runner
Right now, the Vado is the only e-bike I've seen that fits my picture of what I'm looking for in an e-bike that is sold and supported by a reputable manufacturer that has an actual dealer network for service issues.
#13
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Yes, I saw that. That Allant model looks really interesting, but is even more commuter-oriented than the Vado. For one thing, I wouldn't really want to be using my smartphone mounted on my bike as the controller. Also, the Vado has the same geometry as my Crosstrail hybrid and has the suspension forks that are useful for the way I'd be using it.
Right now, the Vado is the only e-bike I've seen that fits my picture of what I'm looking for in an e-bike that is sold and supported by a reputable manufacturer that has an actual dealer network for service issues.
Right now, the Vado is the only e-bike I've seen that fits my picture of what I'm looking for in an e-bike that is sold and supported by a reputable manufacturer that has an actual dealer network for service issues.
#14
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My wife's Trek e-bike came with an always-on headlight, but there was a dealer-accessible setting to allow it to be turned off and on from the controller. She never rides on streets or at night so just leaves it off.
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By the way, I downloaded the Vado user's manual to check out some details. Is is true that the headlight on your bike cannot be turned off? I'm not really a fan of that, as in the daytime on a trail or MUP, I actually find headlights on oncoming bikes to be a bit annoying, especially when some of them are really bright.
My wife's Trek e-bike came with an always-on headlight, but there was a dealer-accessible setting to allow it to be turned off and on from the controller. She never rides on streets or at night so just leaves it off.
My wife's Trek e-bike came with an always-on headlight, but there was a dealer-accessible setting to allow it to be turned off and on from the controller. She never rides on streets or at night so just leaves it off.
You ought to go see one in person and not use the internet as your deciding factors.
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I hit the 1000 mile point.
The 9th cog (highest) is skipping under load starting this morning. I need to see if it's covered under warranty or considered worn out. Chain is still solid and I haven't even needed to lube it yet. the factory grease is still working.
The 9th cog (highest) is skipping under load starting this morning. I need to see if it's covered under warranty or considered worn out. Chain is still solid and I haven't even needed to lube it yet. the factory grease is still working.
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Chain is worn out. Replace chain:
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...98&category=59
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...98&category=59
#18
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Not chain...see cog
The cog lost a baby tooth!
I try to shift not under load, but it's not always an option
#20
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Put on a Deore cog nib I had in the garage. Shifts are much smoother
#21
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So how does the Speed Work ? I see on Trek Site it appears to be 20 and 28 : Obviously you still have to pedal : Does it mean on a flat surface if you are limited to 20mph assist : Were you to get going that fast it would stop assisting you past 20 mPH? I don't quite understand How these work : I've ridden pure Roadies and went faster the 20 MPH . But on a Verve No matter how fast I get going I've never gotten to 20MPH on a flat surface. Of course My riding Surface is Graveled Not smooth Black Top : So if I had a Verve E Bike that was capable of 28 MPH assist : Could I get going that fast ? Or are E bikes just for making it easier ?
#22
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So how does the Speed Work ? I see on Trek Site it appears to be 20 and 28 : Obviously you still have to pedal : Does it mean on a flat surface if you are limited to 20mph assist : Were you to get going that fast it would stop assisting you past 20 mPH? I don't quite understand How these work : I've ridden pure Roadies and went faster the 20 MPH . But on a Verve No matter how fast I get going I've never gotten to 20MPH on a flat surface. Of course My riding Surface is Graveled Not smooth Black Top : So if I had a Verve E Bike that was capable of 28 MPH assist : Could I get going that fast ? Or are E bikes just for making it easier ?
Now an e-bike that will assist you to only 20 mph, is called a "Class 1" and if it assists you to 28 mph, then it is a "Class 3". In most jurisdictions here in the USA, you can ride a Class 1 on all of the bicycling infrastructure such as bike lanes, bike paths and in many cases, sidewalks. Class 3 however may be restricted to riding only on public streets and roads for the obvious reason of their higher operating speeds.
On a Class 3, some local ordinances make exceptions to allow you to ride on MUPs as long as you have the electrical assistance turned off and operate it like a regular bike. But check with the local authorities on this. E-bike laws in the US are weird. In your case, since your intention seems to be to ride with roadies, on roads of course, maybe none of the regulatory stuff regarding Class 1 vs Class 3 really affects you at all.
In theory, if you are a really strong rider, you can continue to pedal past the assistance threshold and go faster but that is challenging for most people. With a Class 3, I don't think you would want to go any faster anyway.
Last edited by edwong3; 10-13-19 at 11:58 PM.
#23
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A pedal assisted e-bike will make you into an athletic rider instantly. The motor adds to your own power and will make the pedaling so much easier and you'll be able to maintain those speeds for extended periods of time. Imagine as if though you had a really strong tailwind at your back or as if though you were pedaling downhill all the time.
Now an e-bike that will assist you to only 20 mph, is called a "Class 1" and if it assists you to 28 mph, then it is a "Class 3". In most jurisdictions here in the USA, you can ride a Class 1 on all of the bicycling infrastructure such as bike lanes, bike paths and in many cases, sidewalks. Class 3 however may be restricted to riding only on public streets and roads for the obvious reason of their higher operating speeds.
On a Class 3, some local ordinances make exceptions to allow you to ride on MUPs as long as you have the electrical assistance turned off and operate it like a regular bike. But check with the local authorities on this. E-bike laws in the US are weird. In your case, since your intention seems to be to ride with roadies, on roads of course, maybe none of the regulatory stuff regarding Class 1 vs Class 3 really affects you at all.
In theory, if you are a really strong rider, you can continue to pedal past the assistance threshold and go faster but that is challenging for most people. With a Class 3, I don't think you would want to go any faster anyway.
Now an e-bike that will assist you to only 20 mph, is called a "Class 1" and if it assists you to 28 mph, then it is a "Class 3". In most jurisdictions here in the USA, you can ride a Class 1 on all of the bicycling infrastructure such as bike lanes, bike paths and in many cases, sidewalks. Class 3 however may be restricted to riding only on public streets and roads for the obvious reason of their higher operating speeds.
On a Class 3, some local ordinances make exceptions to allow you to ride on MUPs as long as you have the electrical assistance turned off and operate it like a regular bike. But check with the local authorities on this. E-bike laws in the US are weird. In your case, since your intention seems to be to ride with roadies, on roads of course, maybe none of the regulatory stuff regarding Class 1 vs Class 3 really affects you at all.
In theory, if you are a really strong rider, you can continue to pedal past the assistance threshold and go faster but that is challenging for most people. With a Class 3, I don't think you would want to go any faster anyway.
#24
Senior Member
Hey Thanks : I'm actually waiting for Treks Dual Sport style in Electric to come back out : My sources Tell me that's sometime Prior to Spring . So if I purchased a Class 3 is there a Registration Requirement ? I'm wondering how they would Moderate it. I live in West Michigan AREA . So we have a variety of Trails VIA torn up Railroad Track. You can Travel easily 100 Miles North and 50 Miles South . Without ever getting off a Trail more then a city block. What I need to do is find a Store Either in Michigan or a Nearby State that is a Full Stocking Dealer : Hard to find in Winter Wonderland Areas : Thanks for the reply
To the best of my knowledge, in most parts of the US, an electric bicycle doesn't need to be registered as a "motor vehicle" as long as it fits within certain guidelines which most models on the market do, generally 20 or 28 mph max, 750 watts max and pedals. If you buy something that has a 3,000 watt motor, goes over 30 mph and has no working pedals, or even if it does, then you can pretty much assume that the authorities may not view that as a "bicycle" and could require some type of registration if the vehicle comes equipped to meet certain standards and if intended for use on public streets and roads, not just off-road or private property. But of course that last example is not what you are looking into anyway so disregard that.😁
Hopefully Trek will soon offer that model (Dual Sport) that you are waiting for and when you get it have a blast. Be sure to keep the forum group updated. Ride safe.👍
#25
Junior Member
I'm glad to have been of help to you, though I admit that I am not the most informed on the subject matter. That's why I said check with your local authorities to learn what the rules are about e-bike use in your jurisdiction.
To the best of my knowledge, in most parts of the US, an electric bicycle doesn't need to be registered as a "motor vehicle" as long as it fits within certain guidelines which most models on the market do, generally 20 or 28 mph max, 750 watts max and pedals. If you buy something that has a 3,000 watt motor, goes over 30 mph and has no working pedals, or even if it does, then you can pretty much assume that the authorities may not view that as a "bicycle" and could require some type of registration if the vehicle comes equipped to meet certain standards and if intended for use on public streets and roads, not just off-road or private property. But of course that last example is not what you are looking into anyway so disregard that.😁
Hopefully Trek will soon offer that model (Dual Sport) that you are waiting for and when you get it have a blast. Be sure to keep the forum group updated. Ride safe.👍
To the best of my knowledge, in most parts of the US, an electric bicycle doesn't need to be registered as a "motor vehicle" as long as it fits within certain guidelines which most models on the market do, generally 20 or 28 mph max, 750 watts max and pedals. If you buy something that has a 3,000 watt motor, goes over 30 mph and has no working pedals, or even if it does, then you can pretty much assume that the authorities may not view that as a "bicycle" and could require some type of registration if the vehicle comes equipped to meet certain standards and if intended for use on public streets and roads, not just off-road or private property. But of course that last example is not what you are looking into anyway so disregard that.😁
Hopefully Trek will soon offer that model (Dual Sport) that you are waiting for and when you get it have a blast. Be sure to keep the forum group updated. Ride safe.👍