For you nitpicken' C&V judges. Go back to Schwinn school.
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Is it my bad, old eyes, or is this a reverse image. The bike in the main pic has its QR lever on the correct/left side. I wondered about the RD and the lower picture sayings a Shimano derailleur, looks like a Rally to my non-judge eyes. Maybe a Schwinn judge will happen by and set me straight, here shortly.
Bill
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Last edited by qcpmsame; 02-03-20 at 09:12 PM.
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Agreed highly, Campagnolo offered these, but they weren't all that great either. Mediocre at best. That Shimano Crane was far better in terms of touring applications or the SunTour VxGT for derailleurs in that era. A good Schwinn decision.
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Well I just picked up my first Schwinn, a 1968 Paramount. I can only imagine what the nitpickers are going to say . . .
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#63
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About the Weinmann brakes -- I can't remember if that model is early enough to have the riveted or swaged pivots in the arch that connects the two pivots. If so, take a look because those are prone to cracking. You have to take the brake off and look at the pivots from behind, look for radial cracks in the aluminum. If yours has the pivots that thread in, then you're golden, those are very reliable.
If you want period-correct brake levers for the upright bars, you want the ones with no ball on the end, more of a sharp point. The later ball-ends are a lot safer for falling on if you crash, so if you use the pointy ones and crash, keep an eye on them as you fly through the air, and choose something else to land on.
I don't think any nitpicken C&V judges will accost you if you use the newer safer levers. They're a lot easier to find too, and less likely to be worn out or bent and gouged up.
Mark B in Seattle
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Nice bike, pretty amazing condition for its age. Love the steel Cinelli stem.
About the Weinmann brakes -- I can't remember if that model is early enough to have the riveted or swaged pivots in the arch that connects the two pivots. If so, take a look because those are prone to cracking. You have to take the brake off and look at the pivots from behind, look for radial cracks in the aluminum. If yours has the pivots that thread in, then you're golden, those are very reliable.
If you want period-correct brake levers for the upright bars, you want the ones with no ball on the end, more of a sharp point. The later ball-ends are a lot safer for falling on if you crash, so if you use the pointy ones and crash, keep an eye on them as you fly through the air, and choose something else to land on.
I don't think any nitpicken C&V judges will accost you if you use the newer safer levers. They're a lot easier to find too, and less likely to be worn out or bent and gouged up.
Mark B in Seattle
About the Weinmann brakes -- I can't remember if that model is early enough to have the riveted or swaged pivots in the arch that connects the two pivots. If so, take a look because those are prone to cracking. You have to take the brake off and look at the pivots from behind, look for radial cracks in the aluminum. If yours has the pivots that thread in, then you're golden, those are very reliable.
If you want period-correct brake levers for the upright bars, you want the ones with no ball on the end, more of a sharp point. The later ball-ends are a lot safer for falling on if you crash, so if you use the pointy ones and crash, keep an eye on them as you fly through the air, and choose something else to land on.
I don't think any nitpicken C&V judges will accost you if you use the newer safer levers. They're a lot easier to find too, and less likely to be worn out or bent and gouged up.
Mark B in Seattle
Yeah that cinelli steel stem is cool. It will go on a different bike though as I plan on using drops on this bike and running it 3 x 5 with a TA crank.