Laundry Advice
09-08-20, 12:46 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Laundry Advice
Sure, accuse me of vanity but I figured the summers here only get hotter and hotter so I decided to get a white jersey. There was a sale on Rapha and I picked up one of their Classic II jerseys made from some sort of merino wool blend. I've worn it maybe 3 times and handwashed it with a gentle detergent twice but I've noticed some yellowing in the collar and most notably lower back areas.
How do you deal with that? Is it safe to use vinegar or hydrogen peroxide which seems to be what a lot of websites are suggesting for natural fiber discolored whites? Anything (aside from chrlorine bleach) I should avoid?
How do you deal with that? Is it safe to use vinegar or hydrogen peroxide which seems to be what a lot of websites are suggesting for natural fiber discolored whites? Anything (aside from chrlorine bleach) I should avoid?
09-08-20, 04:15 PM
#2
Full Member
I wash my Rapha kit in the washing machine, never had any problems and comes out clean!
Last edited by sw20; 09-08-20 at 11:44 PM.
09-08-20, 04:40 PM
#3
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Try some Tide Ultra or comparable Gain liquid detergent, and smear some directly onto the stained areas. Let it set for about 30 minutes, then handwash normally, using a soft sponge on the collar and stained areas.
Try dabbing with the sponge first, rather than scrubbing, to avoid roughing up the fabric and driving the stains in deeper. On delicate fabrics I'll use some white toilet paper or paper towel behind the fabric white dabbing from the front. If the stain is releasing you'll see it on the white toilet paper or paper towel.
Give the jersey plenty of time in a good enzyme laundry detergent -- Tide, Gain, etc. I'll often soak my grungy bike apparel for 30-60 minutes before rinsing. I use the tub, or a 5-gallon mop bucket in the tub.
Hydrogen peroxide won't hurt most fabrics. I've used it on my poly wicking fabric cycling clothes and other fabrics. No problems.
(The following two methods might remove the lanolin and natural oils in merino wool, so try 'em only if the above doesn't work.)
If that doesn't work, move on to the semi-hard stuff: Fels-Naptha (that's how Fels spells it). Fels isn't quite as hardcore as it used to be -- I don't think it contains any naphtha anymore. I use it to remove chain grease tattoos from my socks, work clothes when I'm repairing bikes, and even on my hands. Since it no longer contains naphtha it should be safe for skin, and I've had no rashes.
Beyond that, there's real naphtha dry cleaning solution. It's a little harder to find nowadays but should still be in most hardware stores and even some large grocery stores.
Try dabbing with the sponge first, rather than scrubbing, to avoid roughing up the fabric and driving the stains in deeper. On delicate fabrics I'll use some white toilet paper or paper towel behind the fabric white dabbing from the front. If the stain is releasing you'll see it on the white toilet paper or paper towel.
Give the jersey plenty of time in a good enzyme laundry detergent -- Tide, Gain, etc. I'll often soak my grungy bike apparel for 30-60 minutes before rinsing. I use the tub, or a 5-gallon mop bucket in the tub.
Hydrogen peroxide won't hurt most fabrics. I've used it on my poly wicking fabric cycling clothes and other fabrics. No problems.
(The following two methods might remove the lanolin and natural oils in merino wool, so try 'em only if the above doesn't work.)
If that doesn't work, move on to the semi-hard stuff: Fels-Naptha (that's how Fels spells it). Fels isn't quite as hardcore as it used to be -- I don't think it contains any naphtha anymore. I use it to remove chain grease tattoos from my socks, work clothes when I'm repairing bikes, and even on my hands. Since it no longer contains naphtha it should be safe for skin, and I've had no rashes.
Beyond that, there's real naphtha dry cleaning solution. It's a little harder to find nowadays but should still be in most hardware stores and even some large grocery stores.
09-08-20, 07:40 PM
#4
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Woolite Delicate? No experience with it but it is wool after all.
09-08-20, 11:22 PM
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Try some Tide Ultra or comparable Gain liquid detergent, and smear some directly onto the stained areas. Let it set for about 30 minutes, then handwash normally, using a soft sponge on the collar and stained areas.
Try dabbing with the sponge first, rather than scrubbing, to avoid roughing up the fabric and driving the stains in deeper. On delicate fabrics I'll use some white toilet paper or paper towel behind the fabric white dabbing from the front. If the stain is releasing you'll see it on the white toilet paper or paper towel.
Give the jersey plenty of time in a good enzyme laundry detergent -- Tide, Gain, etc. I'll often soak my grungy bike apparel for 30-60 minutes before rinsing. I use the tub, or a 5-gallon mop bucket in the tub.
Hydrogen peroxide won't hurt most fabrics. I've used it on my poly wicking fabric cycling clothes and other fabrics. No problems.
(The following two methods might remove the lanolin and natural oils in merino wool, so try 'em only if the above doesn't work.)
If that doesn't work, move on to the semi-hard stuff: Fels-Naptha (that's how Fels spells it). Fels isn't quite as hardcore as it used to be -- I don't think it contains any naphtha anymore. I use it to remove chain grease tattoos from my socks, work clothes when I'm repairing bikes, and even on my hands. Since it no longer contains naphtha it should be safe for skin, and I've had no rashes.
Beyond that, there's real naphtha dry cleaning solution. It's a little harder to find nowadays but should still be in most hardware stores and even some large grocery stores.
Try dabbing with the sponge first, rather than scrubbing, to avoid roughing up the fabric and driving the stains in deeper. On delicate fabrics I'll use some white toilet paper or paper towel behind the fabric white dabbing from the front. If the stain is releasing you'll see it on the white toilet paper or paper towel.
Give the jersey plenty of time in a good enzyme laundry detergent -- Tide, Gain, etc. I'll often soak my grungy bike apparel for 30-60 minutes before rinsing. I use the tub, or a 5-gallon mop bucket in the tub.
Hydrogen peroxide won't hurt most fabrics. I've used it on my poly wicking fabric cycling clothes and other fabrics. No problems.
(The following two methods might remove the lanolin and natural oils in merino wool, so try 'em only if the above doesn't work.)
If that doesn't work, move on to the semi-hard stuff: Fels-Naptha (that's how Fels spells it). Fels isn't quite as hardcore as it used to be -- I don't think it contains any naphtha anymore. I use it to remove chain grease tattoos from my socks, work clothes when I'm repairing bikes, and even on my hands. Since it no longer contains naphtha it should be safe for skin, and I've had no rashes.
Beyond that, there's real naphtha dry cleaning solution. It's a little harder to find nowadays but should still be in most hardware stores and even some large grocery stores.
09-09-20, 01:06 AM
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Are you wearing a base layer? Do you wash your cycling kit immediately after riding? I've noticed my white base layer has the same yellowing as you describe, except with mine it's only around the collar. My guess is that it's bacterial stains from not washing immediately. I guess that's why white jerseys go on sale often.
09-09-20, 08:02 AM
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Are you wearing a base layer? Do you wash your cycling kit immediately after riding? I've noticed my white base layer has the same yellowing as you describe, except with mine it's only around the collar. My guess is that it's bacterial stains from not washing immediately. I guess that's why white jerseys go on sale often.
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