Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Road Cycling
Reload this Page >

Better to buy high-end used or mid-range new?

Search
Notices
Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Better to buy high-end used or mid-range new?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-16-20, 01:49 PM
  #51  
wthensler 
Senior Member
 
wthensler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Gatorland and BlueRidge heaven
Posts: 774

Bikes: 2021 Trek Domane SLR 7, 2012 Giant Defy 0, 2012 Trek Domane 6.2 P1, Bianchi Infinito CV disc Di2

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 212 Post(s)
Liked 1,000 Times in 250 Posts
Originally Posted by Dean V
That generation of Shimano is also considered to be the worst as far as shifting goes.
I wouldn't go older than 11 sp and a frame that can take at least a big 25mm tyre, unless the roads you ride on a very smooth.
Is this personal experience, or anecdotal?

i have four bikes with Ultegra Di2 - two are the older 10 speed and two are the newest 11 speed. The 11 speed actually is locked out of the two smaller cogs on the big ring, thus rendering it to a 10 speed anyway.

The performance at the shifter is the same for both new and old as best I can tell after 30,000 miles........
__________________
Ride hard and ride on......
wthensler is offline  
Old 10-16-20, 03:51 PM
  #52  
faulker479
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Sugar Land, TX
Posts: 149

Bikes: Synapse, Slate

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 56 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times in 8 Posts
Originally Posted by wthensler
Is this personal experience, or anecdotal?

i have four bikes with Ultegra Di2 - two are the older 10 speed and two are the newest 11 speed. The 11 speed actually is locked out of the two smaller cogs on the big ring, thus rendering it to a 10 speed anyway.

The performance at the shifter is the same for both new and old as best I can tell after 30,000 miles........
He is talking about mechanical shifting.
faulker479 is offline  
Old 10-16-20, 06:53 PM
  #53  
WhyFi
Senior Member
 
WhyFi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520

Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo

Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times in 4,672 Posts
Originally Posted by impolexg
I think practically speaking having disc or not makes no difference when you're riding with high pressure tires. There are hills here that I will absolutely not descend on a road bike while the streets are wet. The wet limit for me is tire traction, not the brake power. And I'm not even talking about the leaves and gravel and road paint. Even with rim brakes on a wet carbon rim I can lock both wheels if I'm not careful. I believe that in slippery conditions your survival depends on being careful and thinking ahead and brake power doesn't really enter into it.

I want disc brakes on my road bike but I think their extra power is only needed on an mtb.
Being able to lock up a wheel isn't the end-all, be-all; why is it often assumed (usually buy rim brake adherents) that that's all there is to discs? I like that I can easily brake with one finger in situations where keeping a grip on the bars makes sense. I like the better feedback before locking up a wheel. I like the more fine modulation before locking up a wheel. I like that breaking isn't so compromised in poor weather. I like that my expensive rims aren't consumables.
WhyFi is offline  
Old 10-16-20, 11:59 PM
  #54  
Kimmo
Senior Member
 
Kimmo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne, Oz
Posts: 9,555

Bikes: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=152015&p=1404231

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1533 Post(s)
Liked 725 Times in 515 Posts
Originally Posted by impolexg
Because of brake boosters any car can still easily lock all its wheels with tiny disc brakes.

What bigger discs on a car give you is cooling and heat tolerance which allows the car to stop over and over without melting the pads and boiling the brake fluid.
Yeah, I glossed over that, something else was demanding my attention.
Kimmo is offline  
Old 10-18-20, 06:12 PM
  #55  
Chi_Z
Senior Member
 
Chi_Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 507

Bikes: Niner RLT 9 RDO

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 263 Post(s)
Liked 69 Times in 50 Posts
always top of the line used, i made over $100 selling used Red 22 on eBay after using it for over 3 years, made upgrading to DA 9170 very painless, brought them used again ofc
Chi_Z is offline  
Likes For Chi_Z:
Old 10-19-20, 06:54 AM
  #56  
v70cat
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 3,685

Bikes: S5 VWD & SL-7 S works Red.

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 52 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by tomato coupe
Better to buy high-end used or mid-range new?

I'd compromise and buy high-end new.
To me high end is dura ace or SRAM red with power meter and nice wheel. That spec will yield a cost of $10,000 to $12,000.

Mid range is Ultegra or Force and that cost is $5,000 to $7,000.

Used tends to be old school, 23 tires and rim brakes and no electric shifting .

Midrange new with electronic shifting is the way to go.
v70cat is offline  
Old 10-19-20, 01:14 PM
  #57  
WinterCommuter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: St Paul, MN
Posts: 103

Bikes: 2014 Trek Farley, 1993 Gary Fisher Paragon

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 36 Post(s)
Liked 10 Times in 10 Posts
Originally Posted by Gwame
So I've been looking to buy a new road bike somewhere in the 1200-1500 euro price range. I've spotted a used but very good condition Felt AR4 2012 for 1300. Aero bike with Ultegra groupset, though older so 10sp. Though I think it's limited to 23mm wheels.

Alternatively I may go for a Vitus Zenium CR. 11sp 105 groupset with disc brakes but maybe 1 or 2kg heavier and less aero. Also would cost a couple hundred more.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
how many years/miles do you intend to ride the bike? How do you plan to use the bike?

If you plan to keep the bike a long time, i’d go new. Most warranties don’t transfer and you can easily replace the entire 105 group after they ware out, years down the road. Of course, this only applies if you can tolerate the extra weight.

The used higher end bike is already more or less obsolete. Finding reasonably priced replacement parts will likely be an issue. So, even if you only need a new brake lever grip, it may be hard to find one or simply easier to upgrade the whole smack which changes the price/value calculus. Of course, if you plan to ride the bike only for a year or 2, the used bike likely gives you a much better value. Also, if you plan to race the bike, the lighter weight, used bike might be a better choice. Finally, i’d be very careful about purchasing a used carbon fiber frameset. That is, I’ve owned several framests (Carbon fiber, alu, and cromo) over the years, and i’ve had a couple carbon fiber warranty replacements (but no alu or cromo).
WinterCommuter is offline  
Old 10-19-20, 02:28 PM
  #58  
Gwame
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 38

Bikes: Felt AR4 2012, Cube Attain SL 2016, Giant TCR2 Advanced 2020

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Originally Posted by WinterCommuter
how many years/miles do you intend to ride the bike? How do you plan to use the bike?

If you plan to keep the bike a long time, i’d go new. Most warranties don’t transfer and you can easily replace the entire 105 group after they ware out, years down the road. Of course, this only applies if you can tolerate the extra weight.

The used higher end bike is already more or less obsolete. Finding reasonably priced replacement parts will likely be an issue. So, even if you only need a new brake lever grip, it may be hard to find one or simply easier to upgrade the whole smack which changes the price/value calculus. Of course, if you plan to ride the bike only for a year or 2, the used bike likely gives you a much better value. Also, if you plan to race the bike, the lighter weight, used bike might be a better choice. Finally, i’d be very careful about purchasing a used carbon fiber frameset. That is, I’ve owned several framests (Carbon fiber, alu, and cromo) over the years, and i’ve had a couple carbon fiber warranty replacements (but no alu or cromo).
I cycle mostly short distances for work, nothing crazy. The odd weekend I may cycle 10 or 20km or so. Some of it's uphill but it's mostly normal paved roads.

At the moment it's looking like I'll have both the Felt AR4 (2012, ultegra, used but very good condition, tires increased to 25mm and fizik saddle), and a Giant TCR Advanced 2 (2020, new, 105, 25mm tubeless but supports 28mm). Both weigh just under 8kg and have carbon frames with internal routing.

Might end up keeping both or might sell one.
Gwame is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.