Replace cone and spindle BB
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Replace cone and spindle BB
Doing some maintenance on a '88 GT Outpost and would like to replace the bottom bracket. While it's not too bad, it is pitted and I would prefer to replace the spindle/cone with a cartridge. From what I see, this would work: BB UN26 Square Taper JIS Bottom Bracket 68 X 123mm. However, the original uses nuts to attach the crank arms while new ones use bolts. Is this something I even need to consider?
#2
Senior Member
Maybe- besides the overall length, there is the tip dimension to confirm.
swithching from nuts to bolts and washers should work, just make sure the washers are correct. They used to be packaged with bolts and washers.
I would avoid the self extracting type.
“ one key release “
swithching from nuts to bolts and washers should work, just make sure the washers are correct. They used to be packaged with bolts and washers.
I would avoid the self extracting type.
“ one key release “
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#3
SE Wis
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Cup & cone BB often have asymmetrical spindles while cartridges are usually symmetrical. Check sheldon for compatible lengths.
Measurement on threaded spindles(using nuts) is to the end of the taper, not the end of the threaded "stud"
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html
Matters not whether the crank is held on with bolts or nuts. Some cartridges include the bolt, some do not. Verify and acquire bolts if needed.
Measurement on threaded spindles(using nuts) is to the end of the taper, not the end of the threaded "stud"
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html
Matters not whether the crank is held on with bolts or nuts. Some cartridges include the bolt, some do not. Verify and acquire bolts if needed.
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thank you,. That's the first time I've had to replace a spindle like that. Hopefully it won't take a month or more to get a decent one.
#5
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I believe nutted had a tendency for the studs to break off. Back when I looked into it many moons ago, that was the prevailing wisdom. I did not challenge it.
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#8
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Don't think I have ever seen a nutted spindle on a higher end crankset.
Also haven't seen them on MTB's with lesser cranks that you would expect to see them on, which would go along with being weaker.
Also haven't seen them on MTB's with lesser cranks that you would expect to see them on, which would go along with being weaker.
#9
Senior Member
The only exception that I know of was a version of the Campy Super Record with the titanium axle. One version used a solid axle with a threaded stud at the ends. I saw one on display at Maplewood Bike shop in the St. Louis area, as installed on this Raleigh Team bike.
I've got a Phil Wood BB with titanium axle on my Raleigh Team, and it uses bolts. Don't recall if the axle is hollow, though.
Steve in Peoria
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#10
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I doubt it's within my power to break a spindle of any type, but a nutted spindle would definitely be heavier than a bolted one, for the same length and material. Not as big of a concern at the low end...
#11
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Well its very interesting in that likely the most high end spindle had studs and nuts, the revised Campy SR was "updated" to them after Fignon crashed from a broken one in 1982.
Guess I should never say ever, although I'm not sure if I have actually ever seen one in the flesh.
www.cyclingobsession.com, Campy SR bottom bracket review.
Drills down very well and has all the charts and specs.
Guess I should never say ever, although I'm not sure if I have actually ever seen one in the flesh.
www.cyclingobsession.com, Campy SR bottom bracket review.
Drills down very well and has all the charts and specs.
#12
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Cup & cone BB often have asymmetrical spindles while cartridges are usually symmetrical. Check sheldon for compatible lengths.
Measurement on threaded spindles(using nuts) is to the end of the taper, not the end of the threaded "stud"
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html
Matters not whether the crank is held on with bolts or nuts. Some cartridges include the bolt, some do not. Verify and acquire bolts if needed.
Measurement on threaded spindles(using nuts) is to the end of the taper, not the end of the threaded "stud"
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html
Matters not whether the crank is held on with bolts or nuts. Some cartridges include the bolt, some do not. Verify and acquire bolts if needed.
I'm going to the city, on Friday, and can swing by the bike shop if need be.
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Midrange?
There are many interesting things about this GT I'm overhauling. Built in 1988, among a group of bikes in the all new "All Terra line", the Outpost was their "hybrid" model and the only one lacking a triple triangle. The frame was built in Taiwan with Ishiwata chromoly tubes. The frame alone weighs 8 lbs w/o fork. It also has an All Terra steel stem with a plastic liner. It is the only part of the bike that faded to an orange color from red.
The RD is a Suntour Accushift with both index and friction shifting. The thumb shifters are made with heavy chromed steel and still work in either mode.
Finally, the original Araya rims remain tried and true.
Did I mention that the bike is heavy? It's not so much fun to ride as it is just a good old workhorse of a bike.
A $1000 bike in 1988?
#14
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None of those examples include washers. The crank I'm working on requires them. I may have some in the stash, but I'm not finding them. Do I have to go to a bike shop to buy official washers, or can I use any steel washer of the correct size?
I'm going to the city, on Friday, and can swing by the bike shop if need be.
I'm going to the city, on Friday, and can swing by the bike shop if need be.
https://www.google.com/search?q=squa...&bih=617&dpr=1
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#15
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