Trek
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Here is a list of Trek Serial Numbers. I think that puts your bike as 1982.
I'm not sure of the model, but I presume it is a reasonably good model. Do you have a photo of the tubing decal just below the seat?
I doubt either the front or rear wheels are original.
Your chain is pretty knackered up, and is the first part to replace. Probably tires too.
What is under the seat cover? If it is anything other than hard plastic, remove that seat cover and dispose it as far away from the bike as possible!!! Even if it is hard plastic, it may be better without the seat cover.
As-is, you might get $150 to $200 for the bike.
Give it good cleaning, tuning, new chain and tires. And, it could be $300 to $400.
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If it's an 82 it's a good match for the 515 in this catalog
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Thank you. It does appear to be a 1982 510 / 22" frame. I agree the wheels are not original. The seat is weathered and the foam has disintegrated. Chain is definitely toast. Needs bar wrap.
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Here are some notes on the Trek https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ed-tubing.html
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That is one sweet ride and is worth whatever you can afford in order to restore it. That's a handbuilt, lugged, full DB Ishawata chromoly frame and it doesn't really get too much better than that. If it fits you, it's a keeper. You'll know why as soon as you ride it.
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On ANY bike this old, everything with bearings should be serviced: headset, wheel hubs, bottom bracket for sure. Pedals likely. Most of your consumables can be bought on Amazon or check to see if you have a local co op. The co op in my area sells consumables at a reasonable price. Buying on line favors people buying quantities.
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As far as the bottom bracket, if it is going to be more of a rider, you might consider any number of Shimano cartridge bottom brackets, BB un52, BB un300 is the newer one. Easy to install. Tsunami-proof. If you are going to refresh a decent condition bottom bracket, also great!
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The full Ishiwata Treks are very fine bikes. I have a '79 Trek 510 which is one of my favorite bikes to ride. Yes overhaul the bike completely and replace all the consumables.
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Penetraitng oils may help but before that I would remove the crank and bottom bracket, turn bike upside down and pour ammonia then wait a few days. I would try this before penetrating oil eg ATF/acetone or Liquid Wrench because after oil the ammonia will be diluted by oil coating.
I hope you do not need the lye or hacksaw solution since lye is dangerous to you and the hacksaw can damage the frame.
But judging by how good the frame looks the corrosion may not be too severe but that fluted seatpost slammed down is a water trap.
I would expect many suggestions to appear shortly.
Good luck.
I hope you do not need the lye or hacksaw solution since lye is dangerous to you and the hacksaw can damage the frame.
But judging by how good the frame looks the corrosion may not be too severe but that fluted seatpost slammed down is a water trap.
I would expect many suggestions to appear shortly.
Good luck.
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Endless threads already on freeing up stuck seat posts, probably a couple of thousand at least. Start with the easiest methods, working your way if needed to the hardest method. Every method works SOMETIMES. Hopefully yours will be on the easier end.
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Deep Flutes in the seatpost may provide a good channel for lube deep into the seattube. Just fill the flutes to the top, wait, replace, wait, etc.
Make sure the clamp is loose, and leave the seat on for twisting leverage.
However, that is also a risk factor for having rust and corrosion deep in the seattube.
Good Luck!!!
Make sure the clamp is loose, and leave the seat on for twisting leverage.
However, that is also a risk factor for having rust and corrosion deep in the seattube.
Good Luck!!!
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Use a shot glass full of half ATF and half acetone. And wait ... and wait ... and wait ...
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PB Blaster is your friend, that looks pretty clean for the post to rusted. Try some heat at the same time, you can get things hot to the touch with out damaging the paint.
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Deep Flutes in the seatpost may provide a good channel for lube deep into the seattube. Just fill the flutes to the top, wait, replace, wait, etc.
Make sure the clamp is loose, and leave the seat on for twisting leverage.
However, that is also a risk factor for having rust and corrosion deep in the seattube.
Good Luck!!!
Make sure the clamp is loose, and leave the seat on for twisting leverage.
However, that is also a risk factor for having rust and corrosion deep in the seattube.
Good Luck!!!
With the flutes perhaps no need to pour through bottom bracket.
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Good suggestion. Just a thought, coming in from the flutes will enable the solution to follow the same route as the water came in. Hopefully you can hit the corrosion more effectively and also find where the corrosion is the most severe.