Best way to remove (stripped bolt) Clamp- On Grips
#1
my nice bike is at home
Thread Starter
Best way to remove (stripped bolt) Clamp- On Grips
I tend to use WTB Comfort Zone Clamp-On Grips on my flat-bar commuter bike.
High time to replace them, but the little nuts are rusted solid and now also stripped-out, so, cannot get an alan wrench on there .. is it time for the hack-saw ?
You bike-shop-mechanics must come across this B.s. all day long. Sorry.
High time to replace them, but the little nuts are rusted solid and now also stripped-out, so, cannot get an alan wrench on there .. is it time for the hack-saw ?
You bike-shop-mechanics must come across this B.s. all day long. Sorry.
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#2
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Since they're trash anyway, try the easiest way.
Assuming you can orient the blade to cut through the bolt without touching the handlebar, that's a quick and cheap solution.
Or, if you have a power drill and quality bit of the right size, drill through the b bolt head using the rounded head as a guide.
If your drill is a just fit for the head, you only need to penetrate a few mm to separate the head from the screw. The drawback may be that these czp screws are often made from hardened steel which can be tough to drill.
Assuming you can orient the blade to cut through the bolt without touching the handlebar, that's a quick and cheap solution.
Or, if you have a power drill and quality bit of the right size, drill through the b bolt head using the rounded head as a guide.
If your drill is a just fit for the head, you only need to penetrate a few mm to separate the head from the screw. The drawback may be that these czp screws are often made from hardened steel which can be tough to drill.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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I have had success so far every time when lock on grips bolts get rounded out or very corroded. Spray some 99% rubbing alcohol under the grip and just work the grip back and forth. Should slide off just like rubber grips that have gotten oxidised and are hard to get off.
This technique works, since the lock on collars and clamps are only on the end, majority of the grip typically have a hard plastic cover that does not actually have great contact to the handlebar.
This technique works, since the lock on collars and clamps are only on the end, majority of the grip typically have a hard plastic cover that does not actually have great contact to the handlebar.
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I remove these all the time.
I assume the 4mm hex on the top of the bolt is fine. Hold that steady.
I drill out the nut from the underside.
After the nut is gone, I just pop out the bolt and replace it with a new set.
#5
my nice bike is at home
Thread Starter
thanks guys ~ will try some of these methods.
The rubber has worn thru to the plastic and the bolts are frozen, they've served their time.
The rubber has worn thru to the plastic and the bolts are frozen, they've served their time.
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BMC Race Machine / BMC Team Machine / Rossin Record / 80's Pinarello Traviso / Merlin MTB / Raleigh "Folding 20" / Ti-Swift (!)
Erikson w/C&C couplers / Trek's: 2300, 1200, 990 / Jamis 'Sputnik'
BMC Race Machine / BMC Team Machine / Rossin Record / 80's Pinarello Traviso / Merlin MTB / Raleigh "Folding 20" / Ti-Swift (!)
Erikson w/C&C couplers / Trek's: 2300, 1200, 990 / Jamis 'Sputnik'