Time to rescue a stuck, jungle junker. The 1986 Jim Merz Allez!
#51
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Throw the gentle twisting out the window. Put the post in the vise, grab the seattube with one hand to steady the frame, the other on the headtube, and alternate pushing and pulling like an absolute madman.
Also, make sure to lubricate through the bottom bracket inverted. Trying to lubricate through the top isn't going to work; capillary action isn't going to pull it into the gap if/when it pops free.
-Kurt
Also, make sure to lubricate through the bottom bracket inverted. Trying to lubricate through the top isn't going to work; capillary action isn't going to pull it into the gap if/when it pops free.
-Kurt
Hey, let's break it!
In actuality, it is sitting, right now, inverted, bottom-bracket up, with the seat tube completely filled up to the top with ATF/Acetone mix. Grease is slathered all over the outside, especially around the bottle holder mount bolts, so it doesn't seep through.
But...reading between the lines here a little bit...
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#52
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#53
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Kurt,
As I think about post count, I am not sure we can get to 2000 posts but I will try. I'm thinking we need to fabricate a special socket that can fit over the end of the seat post with two slots for the iron rod. Something that we can weld a 3/4" drive socket to, and then use a big boy toy to add some impact leverage to the post. your thoughts? Smiles, CrapMaster Honk
As I think about post count, I am not sure we can get to 2000 posts but I will try. I'm thinking we need to fabricate a special socket that can fit over the end of the seat post with two slots for the iron rod. Something that we can weld a 3/4" drive socket to, and then use a big boy toy to add some impact leverage to the post. your thoughts? Smiles, CrapMaster Honk
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#54
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Hmmm...I hope the bike can take it. We may break it. I mean, all in all we got it on the cheap, but still. If I break it, I'm only going to have the cheapo gaspipe stuff left.
Hey, let's break it!
In actuality, it is sitting, right now, inverted, bottom-bracket up, with the seat tube completely filled up to the top with ATF/Acetone mix. Grease is slathered all over the outside, especially around the bottle holder mount bolts, so it doesn't seep through.
But...reading between the lines here a little bit...
Hey, let's break it!
In actuality, it is sitting, right now, inverted, bottom-bracket up, with the seat tube completely filled up to the top with ATF/Acetone mix. Grease is slathered all over the outside, especially around the bottle holder mount bolts, so it doesn't seep through.
But...reading between the lines here a little bit...
A wannabe near-centenarian Ayrton Senna cuts the apex of the intersection with his Mercedes. He is rounding the bend from my right and isn't opening up his turn. He's heading straight for me, dead-on. I see it coming and pedal hard left - the only direction I can go - but it's too late for action. He broadsides me just as I get turned, flinging me sideways onto the passenger fender. I slide off, face-first onto the asphalt, as the car finally comes to a stop.
The tri-color Shimano 600 crank was bent like a springer fork, the Cinelli Giro D'Italia bars bent in a new direction, and the downtube acquired a series of various interesting dents and creases in it.
I once put the frameset on a frame table for giggles. It's not in plane...but it's not twisted either, and could easily be cold-set back into alignment if one tried.
You, my friend, are not a Mercedes at 20mph.*
Plus, you'll be pulling on the frame in alternating directions. Even if you manage to cold-set the main triangle off plane, you'll get the seatpost out and can then put the frame on a frame table to re-align it (and as the source of this advice, I'll gladly offer it if you do bend it and don't mind the two-way shipping cost).
-Kurt
*nevertheless, you should be aware that you are a Huffy mechanic.
Last edited by cudak888; 07-15-23 at 09:49 PM.
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#55
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NOW we're talking. But point the seatpost straight up; don't follow the frame angles. Makes it MUCH easier to rotate.
Push HARD and keep pushing hard. You want to see flex in the frame and the post. Apply the pressure gradually and firmly, and keep increasing it. At some point, there will be a HUGE "pow" as the post breaks free momentarily. It will be just as stuck after the "pow;" this is your cue to reverse your motion and break it free again in the opposite direction.
Eventually, after the "pows," you'll start to get slightly less friction as the penetrating fluid you've dribbled down the BB begins to pull itself into the gap (however small).
Keep at it, eagerly awaiting updates.
RJ the Bike Guy has a variation of that - drill the socket and the seatpost, bolt together, apply impact wrench. That's definitely what I'd suggest if this doesn't work.
-Kurt
Push HARD and keep pushing hard. You want to see flex in the frame and the post. Apply the pressure gradually and firmly, and keep increasing it. At some point, there will be a HUGE "pow" as the post breaks free momentarily. It will be just as stuck after the "pow;" this is your cue to reverse your motion and break it free again in the opposite direction.
Eventually, after the "pows," you'll start to get slightly less friction as the penetrating fluid you've dribbled down the BB begins to pull itself into the gap (however small).
Keep at it, eagerly awaiting updates.
Kurt,
As I think about post count, I am not sure we can get to 2000 posts but I will try. I'm thinking we need to fabricate a special socket that can fit over the end of the seat post with two slots for the iron rod. Something that we can weld a 3/4" drive socket to, and then use a big boy toy to add some impact leverage to the post. your thoughts? Smiles, CrapMaster Honk
As I think about post count, I am not sure we can get to 2000 posts but I will try. I'm thinking we need to fabricate a special socket that can fit over the end of the seat post with two slots for the iron rod. Something that we can weld a 3/4" drive socket to, and then use a big boy toy to add some impact leverage to the post. your thoughts? Smiles, CrapMaster Honk
-Kurt
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#56
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Lol…
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#57
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He already drilled the post now how to drill the socket? Maybe a version of a socket for an O2 Sensor, just on a bigger scale! Smiles, MH
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I'm tellin' you, if you started with a hacksaw blade yesterday you'd be done by now, even if you did it by hand.
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Whatdahell is this! You already tore up the JB weld on the steel rod? How in Hades did you do that. Your huffy ways are showing... Smiles, MH
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#60
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Option #2..
..is failing
So now the dumb Huffy AND the dumb Allez are laughing at me. I think they are bonding, but over the wrong experiences here
..is failing
So now the dumb Huffy AND the dumb Allez are laughing at me. I think they are bonding, but over the wrong experiences here
Last edited by AdventureManCO; 07-15-23 at 10:18 PM.
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See how soft that aluminum is? Hacksaw will cut through that like butter. And you can totally feel the difference between the aluminum and the steel tube when you're hacksawing.
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Lol
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Okay! Got the center section of the bike slathered in grease, and have the seatpost filled all the way up with ATF juice. About 15min in, I moved it to the vise and tried some gentle/moderate twist action. Nothing yet. We’lol see where we are at tomorrow. I’m willing to give it a week, but if we can’t free it, it’s the nuclear option.
I even used the hammer action of my impact as I was getting the juice in there. Giving it the best shot I can!
I even used the hammer action of my impact as I was getting the juice in there. Giving it the best shot I can!
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Going w/ my original plan.
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Last edited by AdventureManCO; 07-16-23 at 08:40 AM.
#65
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I only taught a year of high school intro chemistry once, but elemental calcium is an alkali-earth metal. Calcium in our bones is part of a mineral hydroxyapatitie, written Ca 10(PO 4) 6(OH) 2. The other dominant component of our bones are collagens. So they're really more of a mineral-matrix composite (more like carbon fiber!) than metal. I hope that's not bad news for the steel-is-real metal bike fans here!
Metals should be temperature-conducting, thermal-conducting, ductile, and malleable. Bones are not those things. (Sorry to be pedantic.)
Metals should be temperature-conducting, thermal-conducting, ductile, and malleable. Bones are not those things. (Sorry to be pedantic.)
Lets really go pedantic. Is calcium a metal? Yes. Is it in your bones? Yes. So, there is metal in your bones, ergo metal bones.
Call ME pedantic, but you're picking nits. (And I said TECHICALLY)
If you REALLY want to have this discussion we can go PM.
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#67
Señor Member
#68
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Originally Posted by Wikipedia
Calcium is a chemical element with the symbolCa and atomic number 20. As an alkaline earth metal, calcium is a reactive metal that forms a dark oxide-nitride layer when exposed to air. Its physical and chemical properties are most similar to its heavier homologues strontium and barium. It is the fifth most abundant element in Earth's crust, and the third most abundant metal, after iron and aluminium. The most common calcium compound on Earth is calcium carbonate, found in limestone and the fossilised remnants of early sea life; gypsum, anhydrite, fluorite, and apatite are also sources of calcium. The name derives from Latincalx "lime", which was obtained from heating limestone.
#69
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Thank you for deleting the personal attack from your original post.
You are reversing your logic here, versus your original argument re calcium in bones.
Is the iron in ferrous oxide still elemental? No,
is the calcium in calcium oxide still elemental? No.
You are reversing your logic here, versus your original argument re calcium in bones.
Is the iron in ferrous oxide still elemental? No,
is the calcium in calcium oxide still elemental? No.
#70
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Keep it up and I'll keep repeating it.
METAL BONES!!!!
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Be warned that the Sawzall method suggested above takes skill, and - personally - I don't trust this method on a frame with thin, quality tubing. It's very easy to go too far and put a tiny slice in the seattube. I consider it a last-resort method.
-Kurt
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I am a cutter, but I do not advocate using a sawzall. Just a regular hacksaw blade held in my hand. Aluminum is soft. It takes a while, but far less time than has already been spent on chemicals and force multipliers.
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For my own unsticking challenges, I almost always use heat on the parts to add some thermal expansion to break to corrosion bond, and spraying hot metal with wd40 and such the cooling seems to suck the oil into the "joint". With aluminum like a stem or seatpost, putting a propane torch to the "part" works well and I've never cooked the paint off a steel frame.
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#74
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Just stop. You're not going to prove anyone wrong and you're beating a dead horse.
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Not a problem, I do pedantic exceptionally well.
Lets really go pedantic. Is calcium a metal? Yes. Is it in your bones? Yes. So, there is metal in your bones, ergo metal bones.
Call ME pedantic, but you're picking nits. (And I said TECHICALLY)
If you REALLY want to have this discussion we can go PM.
Lets really go pedantic. Is calcium a metal? Yes. Is it in your bones? Yes. So, there is metal in your bones, ergo metal bones.
Call ME pedantic, but you're picking nits. (And I said TECHICALLY)
If you REALLY want to have this discussion we can go PM.
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