JochenRindt

I have a 1982 PSV-10 that I would like to get back on the road next spring. One thing I would like to do is to have the bb repacked with grease. I am quite sure the cups and bearings are still good, as there is no play when I take the chain off the ring, grab both crank arms and rock them. My question is: will a bike shop do just a simple regrease job on a bb?

clubman 

fify

You'll need a mechanic who is intimate with the vagaries of French BBs from that era. French, Swiss, and English are all possibilities. Be careful who you allow to put a wrench on your bike.

Piff 

Agreed. It is very difficult to find a shop these days that is competent and willing to work on something like a cup/cone bottom bracket. I don't think I'd trust most places even with cup/cone hubs.

SurferRosa

Why not acquire a crank puller and lock ring spanner and do it yourself?

kunsunoke 

Unfortunately, most modern bike shops aren't equipped (or inclined) to deal with French-standard parts. They'd rather sell you a new bike. Unless you are surrounded by old-school bike shops your best option is likely doing the job yourself, particularly if you are mechanically inclined and have access to YouTube for instructional videos.

To do the job properly, you'll need to purchase either a 22mm crank puller or the Stronglight 23.35mm equivalent. I'm a little unclear about which, as the bike is a 1982 build (and so might still be 23.35mm threaded for the Stronglight 104 crankset). You may also have to purchase a metric socket and hex key set if you don't already have those.

Lastly, you'd need a fixed cup tool (with hook to remove the lock ring from the non-drive side) and a pin spanner to get the non-drive side cup out.

Unlike BSA-standard bottom brackets, both cups are "normal" right-hand threaded. This means that the fixed (drive-side) cup will have the annoying habit of trying to walk out of the bottom bracket shell. The problem can be fixed with blue Permatex or Loc-Tite on the fixed cup threads.

daka

Mrs. Daka purchased a new Peugeot in 1979, by that time Peugeot had switched to Swiss threading for the BB. My earlier PA & PX 10s ('71 & '74) both were French threaded.

Chombi1 

82 PSV's BB was definitely Swiss threaded. The BB was had non- branded cups but I suspect they were Stronglight. The headset is French sized = French 22mm dia. stem.
Nothing really unusual about the BB, so any competent shop can service them.
Seatpost was 26.4mm (To tit into the metric Supervitus 980 frame tubing). I'm not sure what pedal threading pitch the Stronglight 104bis crankset on them was. It could still be French. Rear dropout threading was standard ISO.
These specs pretty much stayed the same on the PSV stayed the same, at least up to the 1984 model year.

santa fe 2926 

1982 PSV-10, the crank arms had been rethreaded for English, but the rest of bike is French, except for the Swiss threaded bottom bracket, as Chombi points out in previous post. A lovely riding bike, did a nice 30 miles yesterday. If you don’t want to do the bottom bracket overhaul, find a shop that knows loose ball and cup brackets, and the crank arm removal tool on this one, is standard campag threaded.