60' 4 speed freewheel removal
#1
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60' 4 speed freewheel removal
I try to remove this 4 speed freewheel.
I don't have any idea what brand is, so I don't know what tool I need.
The hub is marked Legnano, the skewer is Campagnolo.
The wheel is late 50's or early 60's.
I try to remove it and save it.
Can anybody help with the brand and what tool I need?
I don't have any idea what brand is, so I don't know what tool I need.
The hub is marked Legnano, the skewer is Campagnolo.
The wheel is late 50's or early 60's.
I try to remove it and save it.
Can anybody help with the brand and what tool I need?
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1992 Torelli Nitro Express; 1972 Claud Butler.
1992 Torelli Nitro Express; 1972 Claud Butler.
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if you search under the name Moyne you might find something to fit
do not wish to assert a Moyne identity for the gear block, mention them as they produced some blocks resembling this body pattern
it can be difficult to locate a retail cycle shop with a remover for this as blocks of this pattern have been out of production for so long...
catalogue page of 1957
---
VAR produced a freewheel removal tool with adjustable pins
it is a hefty item resembling a potato masher with a large cast head and a wood handle
AFAIK it has been out of production for several decades, if you know of an "old time" bike shop in your area they may have one snoozing somewhere
IIRC its adjustment capacity might be able to accommodate this body
EDIT:
this modern removal tool from ICETOOLZ has the correct sort of pattern; you would need to check if it is offered in the correct dimension for your block; cost is about nine euro
-----
if you search under the name Moyne you might find something to fit
do not wish to assert a Moyne identity for the gear block, mention them as they produced some blocks resembling this body pattern
it can be difficult to locate a retail cycle shop with a remover for this as blocks of this pattern have been out of production for so long...
catalogue page of 1957
---
VAR produced a freewheel removal tool with adjustable pins
it is a hefty item resembling a potato masher with a large cast head and a wood handle
AFAIK it has been out of production for several decades, if you know of an "old time" bike shop in your area they may have one snoozing somewhere
IIRC its adjustment capacity might be able to accommodate this body
EDIT:
this modern removal tool from ICETOOLZ has the correct sort of pattern; you would need to check if it is offered in the correct dimension for your block; cost is about nine euro
-----
Last edited by juvela; 10-18-23 at 06:26 PM. Reason: addition
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Clean it off more and I think you will find it is a Regina.
‘now.. try to locate an ancient remover….
you might have to fabricate one.
or, trip to Italy and find a closet sized bike shop with a should be retired shopkeeper.
‘I like that idea.
‘now.. try to locate an ancient remover….
you might have to fabricate one.
or, trip to Italy and find a closet sized bike shop with a should be retired shopkeeper.
‘I like that idea.
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If you look closely at the first picture you can just make out it is a Regina freewheel.
I hate to admit it but I once removed a 50s Regina freewheel with a carefully applied punch.
I hate to admit it but I once removed a 50s Regina freewheel with a carefully applied punch.
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#5
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I guess that's the punch line of your post.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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#6
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Let me check my tool stash tomorrow. If I still have one and don't have any 4-notch freewheels anymore, I can send it to you. Stay tuned ... .
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#7
Fuji Fan
What are the dimensions, such as diameter and width of the slots. If you measure the diameter, please be clear in how you measure it(od vs id). I have a batch of freewheels I bought several years ago. I don't want to let any go, but I might loan one out if I have it.
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If a removal tool can't be located, possibly consider a modification of the "destructive method" for removal (which will hopefully not destroy the freewheel).
- Remove the axel and bearings from the hub (do not remove the tire).
- With the wheel in front of you and the two divot holes in the outer bearing race/retaining ring in the 3 and 9 o'clock positions, insert a punch in the 3 o'clock divot.
- Hammer towards the floor to remove the retaining ring (it is reversed threaded).
- Be prepared to catch the loose bearings, pawls and springs in a plastic container that fits over the entire freewheel.
- As the ring is loosened, flip the wheel to horizontal. Loosen until the ring can be removed.
- Once it is removed, place the container over the freewheel and rapidly flip the wheel 180 degrees and catch the contents in the container.
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Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
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Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
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Those teeth are in nice shape. I hope you are successful. Get those specs to us and maybe this Suntour unit would help. I'm not using it and you can have it. Outside diameter is 40mm:
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The old Maeda 888 shallow two-prong tool would fit across this. The Shimano FW40 two-prong probably would as well. The latter is still produced and not expensive, finding one of the Maeda tools can be hard, but they are certainly out there. Might be one more avenue to consider.
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I'm thinking "VAR #188:"
Or, perhaps better, if you can find it (I've never seen one "in the flesh"), the VAR #188B, which has an extension to securely fit a quick-release skewer:
Or, perhaps better, if you can find it (I've never seen one "in the flesh"), the VAR #188B, which has an extension to securely fit a quick-release skewer:
Last edited by JohnDThompson; 10-19-23 at 09:27 AM.
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The exterior diameter is 39.12 mm
the interior is 33.6 mm
the slot is 4.5 mm wide.
I try to save the free wheel if possible.
Thank for helping me out.
the interior is 33.6 mm
the slot is 4.5 mm wide.
I try to save the free wheel if possible.
Thank for helping me out.
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1992 Torelli Nitro Express; 1972 Claud Butler.
1992 Torelli Nitro Express; 1972 Claud Butler.
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I think I have an old 4-prong tool. Will check the dimensions much later tonight.
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Before applying the torque to that freewheel to remove it, give the threads a bath in some kroil to help it gain its freedom, if you haven't already.
#18
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60 ft??
#20
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If you cant find the correct tool, That looks like something that you could make out of a socket with a hacksaw and file. A hardened impact driver socket would make a better tool, but not as easy to make with hand tools.
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Sorry, marius.suiram, the notches on my tool are also 8mm.
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How about getting one of the lesser cost BMX 4-prong freewheel tools then hand filing each prong down to the correct width? Identical to the above pictured Suntour 4-prong, but not nearly as dear. You’ll still need to file off 4mm per prong but in the end you’ll have a hand-fitted tool for your freewheel and possible future purchases of the same model. Amazon will get you that tool within 2 days. LBS may have a cheap one too. If you use a dremel tool, keep that puller cool, you don’t want to cause the new prongs to become brittle right when you’re really applying some torque.
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It's called the "destructive method", but I've used it more than once without destruction. Disassembled the freewheel, held the core in a big vise with aluminum jaw covers and used the wheel as a lever.
Using a punch or chisel to remove the freewheel will surely ruin it IMO.
Using a punch or chisel to remove the freewheel will surely ruin it IMO.
Last edited by Reynolds; 10-19-23 at 09:42 PM.
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