h_curtis

I went from a 42t to a 46t for my 10sp ECR. I was hoping to gain that little bit more for a couple of single track hills I do to work. It doesn't quite want to climb up there. I didn't have much time yet to really dive in, but was hoping for some advice or if someone sees anything wrong with this photo? Yes, I know my cable lost its end. I'm changing them out. lol

FBinNY 

Assuming it's a single ring up front, a glance tells me the chain is long enough, which is critical.

So, I'd start by adjusting the B-screw to push the RD down so the pulley clears.

If the RD is the type where the upper pulley moves as the cage swings, you might address it by shortening the chain by an inch or so.

roadcrankr 

We refer to the rear as cogs and the front as rings.
Yeah, assuming you run a single ring, it looks like a 46 cog will work.
Put it on a bike stand or suspend it from a rafter using a rope.
Better to perform a test in those conditions. And to make adjustments.

Iride01 

I'd also look at adjusting the b screw first and consider taking a link out of the chain.

If that doesn't work, then can you put it in a stand or just get the back wheel off the ground so you can turn the crank? Push on the DR as you do so, if it moves over, then you just need to turn the barrel adjuster a very tiny amount. Not even a 1/4 turn or you might mess up the rest of the shifting for the other cogs. If the RD cage doesn't move over any, then maybe you need to adjust the lower limit slightly. With that bigger cog on there, the chain is just having a harder time grabbing enough of the ramps on the cog to get up there.

You might eye ball the chain line. Find out which of the middle cogs the top run of chain looks the straightest from back to front. For me that's easier to see when viewed from behind the rear wheel.

Many miles on that chain?

h_curtis

running a double up front. Thanks, will try B-screw first.

h_curtis

it is on a stand. It’s a double up front

h_curtis

Thanks for the reply. Chain it a week old with maybe 80 miles on it.

It is a double up front, but I’ll never run both big rings.

FBinNY 

This raises an important point.

Was the chain on the inner ring in the photo? If do, did you confirm that it can loop the outer and 46t leaving some slack for the RD?

That us an absolute requirement so you can't destroy the bike by accidentally shifting to that combination.

Iride01 

Never say never. At least don't rely on never. Or are you that good at remembering what gear you are in. Or are you one of those that always looks down between your legs to see what gear you have selected before shifting?

FBinNY 

+1

There's no such thing as "never".

As I said before, being able to loop the two largest is ABSOLUTE REQUIREMENT.

You may never intentionally shift into this combination, but compost happens and destruction of the drivetrain (or worse) is too stiff a penalty for a common accident.

If you must use this gearing, get a linger chain based on big/big and commit to not using the small ring with the smaller rear sprockets. This way the only consequence of a mistake is a sagging chain.

roadcrankr 

Nobody on earth can help you without knowing/seeing the chainrings.

Andrew R Stewart 

I think I see rear entry horizontal slotted dropouts with a hanger. And that the rear axle is all the way forward in the slot, likely banged up against the very end of the slot. If so the first thing I would experiment with is positioning the axle further back in the slot, trying to increase the effective "length" of the hanger. But possible answers like this can then show other issues. Like what goes on with the disk brake on the other side. Or is the QR up to the task of actually clamping the axle in place (and thus comes that "enclosed cam steel QR" rant).

I would expect to possibly need a link pair more chain to span the big/big combo, try to reverse install the B screw to have it's head contact the hanger tab, but in the end understand that 4 teeth bigger than what the der was designed can be asking a lot.

Bill Kapaun

Too much effort to state needed info?
Size of rings
Size of cassette. It it an 11T or ?? smallest cog?
MAKE & MODEL of the RDER so one can look up the ACTUAL capacities re: max cog size & chain wrap.

h_curtis

sorry, chain is on the small ring. I did check it on both large rings and it was okay.

h_curtis

. Sorry, I’m at work right now. Here is a picture of the front. Trying to get a jump on it tonight as I commute via bike and work Sunday. No ride today, which isn’t fun. Thanks.

h_curtis

Very good point on the dropouts. I have room to go back. Maybe I’ll put it on both top rings and inch it back on the drops to see if that helps. The small rings haven’t changed from the last cassette. Thanks.

h_curtis

Well I had more time tonight and it can't be done. I should have gotten a 42t as that was what was on it. Lesson learned. Thanks for all the help. Not sure if I can return it or not, but will probably try.

base2 

FWIW:
rear difference + Front difference = necessary derailleur capacity.
(rear big - rear small) + (front big - front small) = some number.

Among other things like min & max cog size, the derailleur capacity must be equal or greater than actual necessary capacity. I'm probably out dated but the 46 tooth cassettes can only be used in 1x drivetrains. 2x tops out at 42 tooth cassettes.

This is the reason triples used to rule. You could get broader range of gear inches with cassettes & rings that were much closer in size so max derailleur capacity was a much easier requirement to meet.

h_curtis

Well, I have been running a bit ragged restoring a home, work and trying to get back into shape after a health issue. My bike doesn't even have a 42t. It was a damn 36t. I read it wrong when I was at work, what an ECR came with, but I missed a little detail. They started to go 1x and that came with a 42t. Guess I was spread a bit too thin. They will take the cassette back and I have a new one coming. Noticed the rear axle has some play, so I need to look at that. This bike needs an overhaul. Going to pull out a real beater bike for this week and work on the ECR until it is right. Too much salt om the roads to bring out my Campy bikes.

Again thanks all the replied. I learned somethings.

grumpus

We refer to the rear as sprockets.

FBinNY 

choddo

I am itching to get a thumbnail on those jockey wheels & spin the crank backwards to clear off the gunk

h_curtis

Yeah, I am lucky to be able to commute on some single track to work, but it takes its toll on the poor bike with mud and debris. Debating on tearing the entire bike down and running new, but also thinking about upgrading from the Surly ECR to something better. Hoping to ride from the Pittsburgh area to Key West within two years and might want a better setup. The ECR is mighty slow and heavy, but tourers usually are pretty damn heavy.

roadcrankr 

"I shifted to my smallest sprocket." Said nobody, ever.

Iride01 

Spacely Sprocket's and Cogswell Cog's pretty much made the same thing.

So to me the front or rear gears can be called by either term. Although for the front cogs or sprockets, ring sems more appropriate for them only. And only when they are actually rings.