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Tubelss tire seating

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Old 05-05-24, 07:18 PM
  #26  
VegasJen
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Good point.
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Old 05-05-24, 07:27 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Crankycrank
A heat gun might work but there is a much greater risk of overheating/damaging the tire and harder to get the entire tire heated before the parts already heated by the heat gun start to cool down.
Totally agree. Rubber has poor heat transfer, you'll burn outside before getting the whole of it hot I think. Hot water has inherent limits on temp, plus good heat transfer and totally enveloping the tire. In fact, you could do the tire while it is on the rim, inflated. Gimme a sec to calculate max pressure due to ideal gas laws... assuming rise in temp from 20C to 100C, that's 80/(273(K)+20) = 0.27, so 27% increase in pressure due to temp. Lower max pressure in tire by 1/4 or 25% before dipping tire on rim in hot water. Oh, also, make sure hot water does not damage rim, if this is carbon rim! I don't know.

Last edited by Duragrouch; 05-05-24 at 07:35 PM.
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Old 05-05-24, 09:55 PM
  #28  
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It is a carbon rim, so there's that.
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Old 05-05-24, 10:54 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by VegasJen
OK, guys. I am seriously stumped here.

After the last discussion, I have since pulled the tire back off, removed the tape I just put on a few months ago and applied new MucOff tape. I cleaned the living snot out of the inside of the wheel while the tape was off, removed all traces of the old sealant and tape glue. I put the tire back on and even applied a light water-based lubricant. I have aired the tire back up to 120psi several times. I've inflated, deflated it, applied a little extra lubricant, ridden 10-12 miles. Bounced it, kicked it, leaned on it, cursed at it, sweet talked it, prayed to the cycling gods. Everything I can think of and it just won't pop the rest of the bead on. There's more on than before, but probably still a good 6-8" on one side that just refuses to jump up on that shelf.

The tire will hold enough air that I can ride 4-5 miles at a time before losing enough to go soft (haven't tried any further than that) but it does eventually bleed down. No surprise there.

I'm at a loss.
Sounds like you haven't try what I suggested. Another advantage of seating a tire with an inner tube first is that it can push down any imperfections in the tubeless tape installation. On the subject of the tape, what width is the rim and what width of tape are you using?

Originally Posted by surak
If you only have trouble with one side of the bead, you can also put an inner tube inside to get that side seated, then take the tube out from the other side.
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Old 05-06-24, 07:12 PM
  #30  
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I finally, finally, finally got that tire to fully seat on the wheel. I put a generous helping of soapy water on the tire, inflated to 120psi and then gave it a couple dozen "love taps" with a rubber mallet to persuade the bead to seat. I then let all the air out to verify both beads were up on that shelf, then put in my sealant, aired it up to 90psi and took it out for a 34 mile ride with zero problems. Got back about six hours ago and just checked it a few minutes ago and the tire is still inflated. I think it's finally good.

But I have to say, I think I'm going to try other brands besides Schwalbe just to see if another brand is any easier to work with. Only reason I tried Schwalbe is because it is a reputable brand and it was $12+ cheaper than other comparable brands. After all this, I'll gladly pay the difference if the tire seats like it's supposed to.
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Old 05-06-24, 07:23 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by VegasJen
I finally, finally, finally got that tire to fully seat on the wheel. I put a generous helping of soapy water on the tire, inflated to 120psi and then gave it a couple dozen "love taps" with a rubber mallet to persuade the bead to seat. I then let all the air out to verify both beads were up on that shelf, then put in my sealant, aired it up to 90psi and took it out for a 34 mile ride with zero problems. Got back about six hours ago and just checked it a few minutes ago and the tire is still inflated. I think it's finally good.

But I have to say, I think I'm going to try other brands besides Schwalbe just to see if another brand is any easier to work with. Only reason I tried Schwalbe is because it is a reputable brand and it was $12+ cheaper than other comparable brands. After all this, I'll gladly pay the difference if the tire seats like it's supposed to.
Just saw this on different thread, from FBinNY, saying why when he puts the tire on, he puts on opposite the valve first, then works around to the valve (opposite from me):
It's actually very simple. The rim is deepest at the center. The valve blocks that and keeps the tire on the side, costing you what could have been working slack.
This makes sense. Even though tubeless, your valve may still block the center section of the rim.

Also, he says that he prefers steel wire beads, as they stretch less than (foldable) kevlar, so they often size kevlar smaller to account for stretch over time.
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Old 05-06-24, 07:43 PM
  #32  
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You know, that's something I discovered quite by accident. On tube tires, I start at the valve and work to the opposite side. However, for the exact reason posted, with tubeless, I start 180* from the valve and work toward it. That does work better for a tubeless set up.

I'm still too new, as are my tires, to the tubeless set up to experience any bead stretch yet.
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Old 05-06-24, 07:52 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by VegasJen
You know, that's something I discovered quite by accident. On tube tires, I start at the valve and work to the opposite side. However, for the exact reason posted, with tubeless, I start 180* from the valve and work toward it. That does work better for a tubeless set up.

I'm still too new, as are my tires, to the tubeless set up to experience any bead stretch yet.
Stretch compared to steel, perhaps, but kevlar is also super stiff. However it's vulnerable to UV light so exposed line is often painted black. Thus it's been largely supplanted by Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMWPE), aka AmSteel, Dyneema, et al, which do not have that issue, and are now used by some in place of stainless steel wire standing rigging on sailboats, as way easier to repair at sea. Strength and stiffness of steel at 1/7 the weight, ridiculously stiff for a polymer, never use where you want stretch, like a boat dock line or tow line, or climbing line.
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Old 05-06-24, 09:34 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Iride01
If it's a slow enough leak at that point, then try a floor pump. I can get to a way higher pressure with a floor pump than my air compressors. The only thing they have going for them is they can put out more volume of air faster.

CFM vs PSI. Compressors can give you more CFM. Floor pumps can give more PSI than the typical shop air compressor. Many shop compressors only able to go from 125 - 150 PSI. While a 200 pound person should easily be able to get a floor pump to over 150 PSI. Though the size of the floor pumps cylinder/piston does make a difference.

But then again, a 120 pound person will have a issue trying to get a floor pump anywhere close to even 100 PSI.
hmm

Last edited by Camilo; 05-06-24 at 09:47 PM.
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Old 05-06-24, 09:43 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Barry2
Any time I remove a tubeless tire to replace it, I scrub the rim squeaky clean with water and a stiff brush.
If the same tire is going back on, it also gets scrubbed clean. Especially the bead.

Barry

Edit: if your bead still won’t jump up on to the shelf
1. air down to about 30psi
2. pull sidewall away from rim where it won’t jump
3. add a little water with dish soap in it to the non-jump
4. air up to your riding psi, mine is 80psi
5. go make yourself coffee and leave it alone for 10-20mins
Originally Posted by icemilkcoffee
As Barrt2 says, soapy water is the key. Get some soapy water on the bead of the tire and try again.
Even just plain water can solve the problem. That's all I ever use.
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Old 05-06-24, 09:46 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Crankycrank
A heat gun might work but there is a much greater risk of overheating/damaging the tire and harder to get the entire tire heated before the parts already heated by the heat gun start to cool down.
Maybe try a hair dryer instead of a heat gun
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