Duragrouch

I wouldn't call it threaded, in the true sense. I do see intentional grooves left by machining. It's a very particular question of whether that helps axial grip (somehow digging in to the mating part, like treads on a tire, even elastically and not permanent metal deformation), or whether flat-on-flat would give better grip (like "slick" (untreaded) tires on pavement). And this depends greatly on the materials and conditions.

When I need to "lube" something to prevent sticking or corrosion but want to minimize slip, I use Antiseize, it's basically grease with tiny metal particles in it, to reduce the change in static friction like grease would do. The only problem is that Antiseize is even messier than grease, can get silver schmutz (technical term) on everything.

Ron Damon

I'll leave the material science to the solid state physicists. All I can tell you is that it doesn't slip, even with lube.

Duragrouch

Well there you go. Uh, is that post in an aluminum frame or steel frame? EDIT: Doesn't matter because the bushing is aluminum, yes?

SwingNinja

The seatpost goes up and down when it's folded/opened. I don't see why it's doesn't have to be lubricated constantly.

SwingNinja

I honestly can care less what it's called. In the end, I still need to be able to fold/unfold the bike. That means, making the seatpost not to slide while I'm seating on it, and at the same time, still be able to slide it when it needs to be folded. Buying a new "grooved" seatpost and constantly greasing it seems expensive, more work, and messy. If it's just a regular, non-folding bike, I think it's a different story. Otherwise, it's just not a better nor more practical solution for me.

Ron Damon

I don't lube the seatpost to prevent sticking or corrosion. As I said before, I lube it so it doesn't scratch and wear down when moving it up and down when folding and unfolding the bike.

The frame is steel and the seatpost, a $7 part, is Aluminium.

Ron Damon

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Yes, of course. You are the one with the problem. I have offered a solution, and you, of course, prefer to live with the problem, insisting that it needs to be lubed constantly when I said it doesn't and you pretend to know better when you haven't even tried it. Good luck to you.

SwingNinja

Yes you did offered a solution. I said, it's not for me. Thank you. It's not that I don't want to try it. I don't want to buy a new seatpost for something that might or might not work for my bike. I still can't see how it doesn't have to be lubed constantly for something that needs to be slided up and down frequently.

Duragrouch

If it helps, I've never had any issues with my folder seatpost binding, even after being clamped in place a year. No wear issues, but then, a) doesn't go up and down much, and b) there's an aluminum bushing ("sleeve") between the steel frame and aluminum seatpost, so the seatpost is never sliding up and down against steel. They used to use a plastic bushing, that was kinder to the seatpost but flexed too much in clamp and bending so caused frame failure (cracks there). When sliding the post up and down, the clamp is open so it's a slip (free-running) fit, I think wear may not be an issue with the post up and down a couple times a day. It's what it's designed for. Also, GOOD anodizing (meaning type III) helps in terms of wear, but I don't know the specs on the seatpost anodizing.

SwingNinja

I'm not sure how to make people here to understand. Maybe I use my folding bike wrong. When I store my folding bike I intentionally slide down the seatpost, fold the bike, and the handlebar to make it compact. When I use it, I slide up the seatpost, unfold the bike and the handlebar. When I go into a train, or a store, I slide it up, so I can push it like a baby stroller. When I ride it, I adjust the seatpost again so to the right height. What I didn't want originally was the unintentional sliding from me riding the bicycle. So, the post goes up and down more 2-3 times a day intentionally and unintentionally.

Duragrouch

Yes, I got that. This is just me, but I don't think the seatpost needs to be lubed, mine neither wears nor sticks with no lube on post, and any lube would be really messy on a folder seatpost. For best holding-in-place (aka static friction), I go for as clean and dry as possible. So I'd recommend pulling out seatpost, clean with rubbing alcohol, same for the inside of the seat tube or bushing that clamps around the seatpost. Reassemble, see if it slips. If it still does, the "ribbed" seatpost like Ron showed may be better.

Also, please note, that to get my post clamped tight enought to not slip, I have the clamp adjustment screwed down to where it actually starts to restrict movement, even before clamping the cam-lever, otherwise the lever alone is not enough clamp force. Also, just a touch of lube where the cam-lever pushes as you tighten it, will help you to a tighter clamp without massive hand force. (Look on Ron's pic above, see that tiny piece of copper sheet under the cam lever? Lube there.) Keep in mind, this is a thick-wall aluminum 33.9mm Dahon seatpost, I could not exert enough clamp pressure on it to crush it. Friction aids like "friction paste" are needed on carbon fiber seatposts because you are very limited on how tight you can clamp those, as over-clamping WILL crush and break them. For an aluminum post, no need for that, and clean and dry.

I also mark with sharpie, the seatpost position at the top of the seat tube, to easily see if it slips, and the clamp-collar (also known as a "turtleneck" if a separate part from the frame) adjustment nut at 12 O'clock (top) so when I unscrew to loosen and then tighten later (with the lever unclamped), I know exactly where it should be in rotation.

I hope this helps.

SwingNinja

I understand. And in my case, as I explained before, I do a lot of folding and unfolding. Outside lubrication, I pretty much did you do already with the marking and not over clamping, etc. As I said in my previous reply, this is more about physics. There's nothing else that can be done without being impractical or buying a different seatpost (without knowing whether it would work or not).

Duragrouch

No no, I think you misunderstood. Only on *carbon fiber* seatposts do you need to worry about overclamping. On an aluminum or chromed-steel post, if it's slipping, even when everything is clean and dry, increase the clamp force adjustment.

SwingNinja

I guess I wasn't clear when I said I frequently fold and unfold my bike, which include clamping and unclamping the seatpost so it can be slide up or down. I might not have to worry about the seatpost itself. But it's a plastic clamp. And I already have to use both hands to work on the clamp. It's super tight. After a few of those a day, it gets annoying. Again, I've done pretty much everything you've said.

Pinigis 

Note: all this discussion about seatposts slipping is not referring to the subject of this thread: Origami Lotus. The Lotus doesn’t exhibit this problem.

Ron Damon

Note: the Or!gami Bicycle company has failed to provide basic geometry measurements for the Lotus despite repeated requests for years and despite his assertion that it differs from the FnHon Gust 16". It either doesn't have the measurements, or is afraid of sharing them lest it be disproven that they differ from a Gust or that the bike can fit folks upwards of 6' feet tall safely. The one problem that the Lotus does exhibit is lack of transparency regarding geometry and size, therefore regarding fit.
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CrimsonEclipse

Pinigis 

note: I am not sharing design information online.

jdogg111

get a 5 or 6 inch pipe that fits snugly over the clamp. Tighten the clamp a bit more, with pliers if necessary. use the longer pipe as leverage when tightening the seat clamp up. You would b surprised how much easier it is to tighten. Hope this helps.

Schwinnsta

It sounds like you may have fatjgued the clamp. can you post photo(s)?

Ron Damon

Of course, your don't. You don't disclose elemental bicycle geometry for it allows you to persist in the fiction that the bike fits taller people safely and comfortably. For if you were sure of your product and its capabilities, you would share the design information. It's a mass produced Chinese bike, not a high-tech stealth fighter.

Pinigis 

our frames are hand made, not mass produced. Maybe you should spend a little time talking about some thing you actually know about.

CrimsonEclipse

But then he'd never talk again...