Roof rack reco
#26
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No, even with a minivan I was always scraping the hitch on driveways. But mostly, this car has prominent, good-looking built-in racks, and I want to make use of them
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I have a few gas mileage references. A VW Rabbit would get near 31mpg bare topped and almost 26ish with a load of two bikes given the same route and general driving style. My mid 90's Saab got about the same no roof rack mileage but only 3 or 4 mpg less with two bikes on top. My current GTI gets about 34ish during the winter (no rack but 4 snows) on highways and 28+ in the riding season with summer rubber on and bikes on top.
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The particulars for bars but no rack barely matter because they vary so much between cars. A key factor is the placement of the forward crossbar, with respect to the flow sliding up and off the windshield. If the bar is back a bit, so that flow passes above, you'll do better.
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For those of you out here who are into roof racks and have some retro in them here's a shot of my car with the rack mounted.
The feet and cross bars and feet are Thule current "square" model with the first generation ATOC tandem mount, which is shown weathered and with a frozen axle rotating pivot (I just loosely tighten the QR during the heave up and tighten the skewer after the tandem is settled). This bike mount is my go to when I am solo and the axle tower above the wheel tray is enough to clear most front fenders or low rider racks. This bike mount is not too unique being sold under the Thule brand too. But the two other bike mounts are relics from a past when brown touring bikes were the jizz. Yakama Low Rider Mounts from 1984. I recently cleaned them up and had the steel axle towers powder coated. Up close they are all rough from the rust pitting but should last another 40 years.
I've had Barrcrafters, Graber, Yakama, Thule and ATOC roof racks and mounts over the years. Andy (who also shows some of the peppers he grows at the end of the driveway)
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FWIW, roof racks that contain the keyed locking setup, I convert that over to security hardware.
If those locks don't freeze up beyond a lubricant fix, they are easily picked... That's if the pot metal key doesnt twist off in the slot first.
Plus keeping track of keys I'd rarely use isnt something I do well, hand tools/sockets I can justify.
If those locks don't freeze up beyond a lubricant fix, they are easily picked... That's if the pot metal key doesnt twist off in the slot first.
Plus keeping track of keys I'd rarely use isnt something I do well, hand tools/sockets I can justify.
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#31
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While roof racks are fine and very convenient, keep in mind that bicycle windage is murder on your fuel consumption. So if you're planning a long trip, you might do better with the bikes inside, or on a rear rack of some kind.
Also, learn to note and read overhead clearance signs. Can't count the number of people I know that wrecked their bikes on the roof, usually when using indoor public parking, but also driving into their own garages.
Also, learn to note and read overhead clearance signs. Can't count the number of people I know that wrecked their bikes on the roof, usually when using indoor public parking, but also driving into their own garages.
And the possible danger of driving into a garage. This is no help to the OP's actual question, but I use my hitch mount tray type carrier (Yakima Holdup) whenever possible and only use the roof racks when I have to because I'm getting too old and weak (and I'm short) to lift even our 20 pound gravel bikes onto the roof easily.
But to the OP's actual question: I have three roof bike carriers: a Yakima fork mount type, and two that leave the wheels on, Yakima Front Loader and a Raptor (no longer offered?). They both work fine, although for me, the raptor is a bit easier to use, maybe because I've had it longer. I stick with Yakima because for the keyed-alike system to match the stuff I've had since the 90s, roof top box, locking rail towers, etc. Plus they work fine and are available through the local REI which eliminates a real bad shipping issue I have to where I live. I also recommend Etrailer as they have a lot of options and great how-to videos. I buy keys and cores on Ebay because I can always find someone getting rid of the key code I need.
Having existing bars, even good looking ones, is not a reason to use a roof top rack. Cost vs. a hitch rack and/or other considerations, yes. But not that.
Practice lifting - steadily and in total control - your heaviest bike over your head and away from your body onto the roof, placing the rear tire precisely into a wheel tray. Then hold it steady with one hand and mimic placing the wheel holder bars and clamping it down with the other. That's what it will take to get it up on the rack and clamped down. Maybe do all of this on a step stool. It's not a big deal for me with the Impreza, so your Toyota will probably be easy enough. My wife's Outback is just taller enough to make it quite a bit more difficult for diminutive me.
I'm sure this is all trivial to many or most of us. But worth thinking about.
Last edited by Camilo; 05-19-24 at 12:08 AM.
#32
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thx for tips; my wife and I are tall(ish 6' and 5'10) and the corolla is quite short, so I don't anticipate the general plan of rooftop being a difficulty.
I had looked into the Raptor, because there was a pair available on my local craigslist. I would have bought them if somebody else hadn't beaten me to them, but now when I look at the Yakima page, it says 'does not fit your corolla' -- it looks like the attachments are specifically for round crossbars, not bladed/aero crossbars like we have. But I do like that it grabs the frame rather than the wheel so I wouldn't have to worry about 3"
I had looked into the Raptor, because there was a pair available on my local craigslist. I would have bought them if somebody else hadn't beaten me to them, but now when I look at the Yakima page, it says 'does not fit your corolla' -- it looks like the attachments are specifically for round crossbars, not bladed/aero crossbars like we have. But I do like that it grabs the frame rather than the wheel so I wouldn't have to worry about 3"
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The attachment clamps of roof-mount trays are pretty independent of the shape of the crossbars nowadays. I've always been partial to Thule, but I've never heard any complaints about Yakima. And don't forget to check out Rockymounts. You'll have to rummage through the online catalogs to see what will work for your bike.
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Roof rack owners should buy themselves as plastic milk crate.
Used as a step it makes loading a roof rack much easier, especially on tall cars. Then it can be used to hold helmets, shoes, etc.
Used as a step it makes loading a roof rack much easier, especially on tall cars. Then it can be used to hold helmets, shoes, etc.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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#36
Not quite dead.
Our RAV4 came with the roof bars, but we came up with a solution prioritizing mpg and ease of loading. A Saris platform rack mounts into the hitch receiver for two bikes and the interior has room for my trike plus some luggage and a cooler. Excess luggage goes into the Yakima roof box that mounts on the roof bars, and that is much more aero than bikes on the roof. Think about traveling when gas prices have doubled. A platform hitch receiver rack that allows a 29x3 tire (our Saris will) is much better mpg and loading wise than a roof bike rack. We can still open the rear hatch with the bikes loaded, and they're the first to come off the car when we get there.
#37
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thx for tips; my wife and I are tall(ish 6' and 5'10) and the corolla is quite short, so I don't anticipate the general plan of rooftop being a difficulty.
I had looked into the Raptor, because there was a pair available on my local craigslist. I would have bought them if somebody else hadn't beaten me to them, but now when I look at the Yakima page, it says 'does not fit your corolla' -- it looks like the attachments are specifically for round crossbars, not bladed/aero crossbars like we have. But I do like that it grabs the frame rather than the wheel so I wouldn't have to worry about 3"
I had looked into the Raptor, because there was a pair available on my local craigslist. I would have bought them if somebody else hadn't beaten me to them, but now when I look at the Yakima page, it says 'does not fit your corolla' -- it looks like the attachments are specifically for round crossbars, not bladed/aero crossbars like we have. But I do like that it grabs the frame rather than the wheel so I wouldn't have to worry about 3"
FWIW, the first Raptor I had I got off Craigslist years ago. It had round-bar only clamps. But IIRC, I could have replaced the clamps with universal type. As it was, I took them off the Rocket Box and put them on the Raptor. I went a different route and got a new one during an REI sale, with the benefit that the old one didn't have the same version of key cores that I wanted, and I didn't have to move the clamps back and forth between the Raptor and Rocket Box.
Hope you find some that work. For the extra large tires, I agree with you that the Raptor might be better than the Front Loader. But maybe the other rack manufacturers make something that will easily work. As I said, I'm into Yakima but only for the keys, not necessarily because I think they're "best". They're fine and probably not notably better or worse than any other major brand. But like I said, I greatly prefer the hitch mount platform carrier, much easier, and I don't worry about the bikes hitting something.
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Thanks, Mike
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Well of course it is. Not having to buy the cross bars saves upwards of $150 or so. It's a significant part of the cost of the system.
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Andy, we also have an ATOC for our tandem. The rotating pivot makes loading simple. However, I have noticed that the tandem rocks slightly side-to-side on the road and I can hear a noise coming from the pivot area as the tandem rocks. I now stabilize the bike with a cross bar from an old car top carrier and that fixed the problem. Perhaps it is a defect with our ATOC. That rocking noise was worrisome, have you perhaps noticed the same?
Thanks, Mike
Thanks, Mike
They both have some lateral rock with both singles and tandems but both seem to have stayed the same (WRT rocking) since new (the first version I got in the later 1980s IIRC). I hear some noise but mostly it's the tire squeaking about in the tire tray.
I use to be a far more aggressive driver than these days. 90+mph wasn't uncommon when on an open interstate. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
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#42
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Roof-Mounted Bike Racks – Yakima
Regardless, it looks like they work the same, and mine works very well.
I also have a rooftop carrier called Raptor, which I dont believe they make any more. It clamps the down tube instead of holding the wheel. It's easier for me to use the raptor.
I'm with you on the same key system. That's why I've stuck with Yakima even though other brands make as-good or possibly better stuff. I have three different roof bike carriers, a hitch carrier and a Rocket Box, all keyed the same.
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#45
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The correct answer turns out to be (drum roll): Thule Sidearm
I met up with a buddy for a ride this morning, and he had a pair on his roof racks, and I was able to verify that my 29x3 Krampus fits.
Looks like they not sold new anymore, but plenty available used on fleabay (which is fine by me)
I met up with a buddy for a ride this morning, and he had a pair on his roof racks, and I was able to verify that my 29x3 Krampus fits.
Looks like they not sold new anymore, but plenty available used on fleabay (which is fine by me)
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#46
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OK so I have two Sidearms now, they work great
I want to get a fairing as well, Thule AirScreen looks good, but I can't find any pictures online of sidearm AND airscreen both installed. It looks like the AirScreen tries to attach to the front bar and then be only lower than it, maintaining contact with the roof with rubber feet (which would get pressed down further by the wind) -- but is it low enough to stay under the sidearm trays as well? By design, the trays stick way forward of the crossbars.
I want to get a fairing as well, Thule AirScreen looks good, but I can't find any pictures online of sidearm AND airscreen both installed. It looks like the AirScreen tries to attach to the front bar and then be only lower than it, maintaining contact with the roof with rubber feet (which would get pressed down further by the wind) -- but is it low enough to stay under the sidearm trays as well? By design, the trays stick way forward of the crossbars.
Last edited by RubeRad; 08-05-24 at 10:03 AM.
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#47
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nvm here's a great video from etrailier:
https://www.etrailer.com/tv-review-t...rs-th72wv.aspx
So do fairings do much for mpg, or are they only for noise?
I haven't seen much of a hit on our corolla since putting the sidearms up top, 27.9 down to 27.7 (cumulative though, I didn't reset)
https://www.etrailer.com/tv-review-t...rs-th72wv.aspx
So do fairings do much for mpg, or are they only for noise?
I haven't seen much of a hit on our corolla since putting the sidearms up top, 27.9 down to 27.7 (cumulative though, I didn't reset)
#48
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I have two Yakima Highroads. I will say that they work really well, and can work with virtually any horizontal bars. I have no complaints about the functionality, and the best part is that they do not touch the frame, which was a requirement for me. Have heard that it is not hard for a thief to steal them, even if locked, but for the places I go, that is not much of a concern.
As for going around corners... there's a local traffic circle, which I've taken at close to the limit of street tire grip (probably about 0.7 G's) with no issues. (Another of my hobbies is autocross, and I tend to take corners faster than most people if I see that there are no other cars present.)
Although I like the Highroad, the wind noise, reduced MPGs, and wind on my frame bag are less than optimal. Also, would like to carry both the bike and a canoe when going on vacation. (These would apply to any roof-mounted rack, not specifically the Highroad). So, I recently installed a class 1 hitch receiver and got a 1 Up for my Honda Accord. Just installed it a few days ago - haven't tried it yet.
As for going around corners... there's a local traffic circle, which I've taken at close to the limit of street tire grip (probably about 0.7 G's) with no issues. (Another of my hobbies is autocross, and I tend to take corners faster than most people if I see that there are no other cars present.)
Although I like the Highroad, the wind noise, reduced MPGs, and wind on my frame bag are less than optimal. Also, would like to carry both the bike and a canoe when going on vacation. (These would apply to any roof-mounted rack, not specifically the Highroad). So, I recently installed a class 1 hitch receiver and got a 1 Up for my Honda Accord. Just installed it a few days ago - haven't tried it yet.
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i removed the Electric moon roof from my Rally car, then patched the hole with a section from an early mazda RX7 hood..... it made a very noticeable difference in cornering..
net weight loss, up high, of 60 lbs.
Bikes set even higher above the roll center....
the real reason i removed that useless feature, tho?. we needed the additional headroom for our helmets.
i've had up to 5 bikes on the roof of my Corolla Wagon.... and up to 6 inside.... and i've hauled nine bikes, total, at one time. That old Corolla earns it's oil changes. 347,500 miles, and counting... i have put three bikes and about 75 bike tires on the roof rack.. and the interior was packed with parts of all kinds... it was on the bump stops. i then drove home, 85 miles... then did the same run a few days later... Bikes and Boards moved to Hawaii, and i benefited tremendously. THANK YOU, TIM!
Last edited by maddog34; 08-05-24 at 01:40 PM.