Trouble packing wheel bearings
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Trouble packing wheel bearings
So I have stripped my fixie completely to move all the bits to a new old frame I picked up. I have managed the whole reassembly, except for repacking the rear wheel bearings. Sheldon Brown's website (and others) say this should be easy. I just don't seem able to get the cones in as far as they were before I removed them (sits out a bit on both sides). I find that after I carefully place all the bearings in the grease to hold them, as soon as I try and screw the cone on and it touches them or the grease they all move and then the cone won't screw right in. I spent several hours trying this last night, and eventually gave up in frustration.
Is this supposed to be this difficult?? Any tips? I am tempted to just take it to my LBS, however would like to learn how to do it myself....especially after doing the rest of the bike without any issues
Thanks
Is this supposed to be this difficult?? Any tips? I am tempted to just take it to my LBS, however would like to learn how to do it myself....especially after doing the rest of the bike without any issues
Thanks
#2
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Massage the cones while putting them in their final position. It'll be obvious when it doesn't work and when it does. Play around.
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Thanks for the replies.
I am using the same bearings that were in there before. I really tried every way I could think of. I could get it so that the bearings were spinning, but with the dust covers sitting proud of the hub which indicated they were not aligned correctly. I know before they were flush.
I think now I may not have been using enough grease as the balls kept moving. I may try again tonight and put in lots more grease so that they are held firmly in place
I am using the same bearings that were in there before. I really tried every way I could think of. I could get it so that the bearings were spinning, but with the dust covers sitting proud of the hub which indicated they were not aligned correctly. I know before they were flush.
I think now I may not have been using enough grease as the balls kept moving. I may try again tonight and put in lots more grease so that they are held firmly in place
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Lots of grease makes your life easier. For reference, I probaly use 1-2 Tablespoons of grease per side when repacking. I like to put it on nice and thick. YMMV.
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This may sound too easy, but...
Is it possible that as you tighten the cone on one side, the cone on the other side is loosening? This is a very common thing.
In order to tighten the cone on one side, you have to hold the opposite cone in place with either a wrench, or your fingers if you are strong enough.
Repacking bearings is more art than science. You have to really have a feel for it. Too loose, no good, too tight, even worse. In fact, you will likely find that once you have it just right, it will seem to loosen on you after you ride for awhile and the grease gets displaced.
You will know if the cones are loose if you can wiggle the wheel on the bike. You might, for example, notice that there is enough play for the edges of the rim to wiggle and touch the brake calipers.
Then, you need to tighten them juuuuuust a little bit to take out the play.
Welcome to the LOVE of bicycle maintanance. The good thing is that your knowledge and skill allows you to tweek your bicycle as you go along. A bicycle repaired by even the best mechanic does not get this kind of attention once it leaves the shop in the hands of the mechanically ignorant bicycle owner.
Is it possible that as you tighten the cone on one side, the cone on the other side is loosening? This is a very common thing.
In order to tighten the cone on one side, you have to hold the opposite cone in place with either a wrench, or your fingers if you are strong enough.
Repacking bearings is more art than science. You have to really have a feel for it. Too loose, no good, too tight, even worse. In fact, you will likely find that once you have it just right, it will seem to loosen on you after you ride for awhile and the grease gets displaced.
You will know if the cones are loose if you can wiggle the wheel on the bike. You might, for example, notice that there is enough play for the edges of the rim to wiggle and touch the brake calipers.
Then, you need to tighten them juuuuuust a little bit to take out the play.
Welcome to the LOVE of bicycle maintanance. The good thing is that your knowledge and skill allows you to tweek your bicycle as you go along. A bicycle repaired by even the best mechanic does not get this kind of attention once it leaves the shop in the hands of the mechanically ignorant bicycle owner.
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Success!! Started again, relaxed, took my time, cleaned hubs, bearings and cones, put in heaps of grease, carefully placed balls with tweezers, slowly screwed in cones and adjusted - easy and runs smooth as!
Biggest mistake before was being in too much off a rush and not using enough grease to hold the balls in place
Thanks for all the advice
Biggest mistake before was being in too much off a rush and not using enough grease to hold the balls in place
Thanks for all the advice
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Originally Posted by dreamy
Success!! Started again, relaxed, took my time, cleaned hubs, bearings and cones, put in heaps of grease, carefully placed balls with tweezers, slowly screwed in cones and adjusted - easy and runs smooth as!
Biggest mistake before was being in too much off a rush and not using enough grease to hold the balls in place
Thanks for all the advice
Biggest mistake before was being in too much off a rush and not using enough grease to hold the balls in place
Thanks for all the advice
One suggestion I would make for the future would be to pack just one side of the hub at a time. Here's what I mean: 1) start with all hub parts clean and dry and laid out on clean paper towels. 2) put a generous amount of grease into ONE of the hub cups, then start pushing the clean bearings one by one into the grease on that side, after all the bearings for that side are in push them gently down to the bottom of the cup. Hold the wheel sideways with the cup horizontal - this way you'll never risk the bearings falling out even if you fail to put enough grease in 3) push the dust cap back in place on the end of the hub until it sits flat. The fat plastic handle on a large screwdriver makes a nice drive bushing for this - no hammering just push down til the dust seal seats firmly and sits flush to the hub flange. 4) get your axle with cone, spacer and locknut assembled in advance (if it isn't already), put a generous amount of grease around the cone and a little on the middle part of the axle, then slide it into the hub into the side you just greased. Roll it with your fingers and you will feel the bearings settle in. 5) Now just flip the wheel to the other side while holding the half packed axle in place. If you set the wheel down on your bench, put a little block of wood or something under the axle to support it. Now just grease the other cup generously, pack in the clean bearings for that side (this step will go faster now since you are setting the individual balls next to the axle), take the other cone, apply grease to it and thead it by hand onto the axle, only using a cone wrench if needed to overcome resistance by burrs on the axle threads or locknut threads. Snug up that cone now, install the other dust cap seal if its not already there, pack it full of a little more grease if that makes you happy, now just install your spacers and locknut. 6) Spin the wheel by hand and you'll know right away if everything is in the right place. Hopefullly no grinding sounds at this point. So now you can just adjust the cones and firmly lock your locknuts. Some people leave a slight amount of side to side play in the cones to permit freespinning after the quick release skewer is snugged and compresses the axle slightly.
#11
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Sweet, success is always fun. I usually pack the cups full of grease, then drop the bearings in 1-2 at a time, with the wheel sitting at a 45* angle. Then I stick a finger in and push them to the outside gently. Never fails. I also make it easier while reinstalling, by leaving one side or the other tightened, so it won't spin. hold that end in your hand with weight on the bearings, then spin on the other cone.,,,,BD
What bites is a Helico-matic hub. I need a tool to remove the freewheel and to reinstall it. So it's either pay the shop to repack the bearings, or take it in before and after. I wonder if they could do that while I waited? It also needs trued too, so doubtful......
What bites is a Helico-matic hub. I need a tool to remove the freewheel and to reinstall it. So it's either pay the shop to repack the bearings, or take it in before and after. I wonder if they could do that while I waited? It also needs trued too, so doubtful......
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