hz536n

I am trying to refurbish my dark burgundy 1986 Austro Daimler SLE, it has the Puch badge. I bought this bike new and somewhere I have the old AD catalog and a letter telling me that SLE means "Super Luxe Elegant".
I want to change out the factory 52/41 Nervar crankset. I see it has the square end axle but I do not know if the bottom bracket is French, Italian, etc. There is an "F" stamped into the underside of the bottom bracket carrier, is that a reference to French threads? I had hoped I could find a crankset that would be a direct install without having to change out the bottom bracket. I like the TA Alize crankset but a dealer told me that I need a new bottom bracket to make it work. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
I have updated to Mavic MA3 wheels (32 front 36 rear) with Shimano 105 hubs and stainless spokes running Michelin Axial 700 X 20 tires. The black factory 6 speed freewheel was 14-30 with the Huret Ecopar derailleur, now the 6 speed freewheel is a silver Shimano 14-32 cassette.
Any ideas for a touch up paint to match the AD dark burgundy?

Puchultima

Hy
All Puch (Austro Daimler) Bottom Brackets are genaeraly British (BSA) . If you measure the Housing where the Bottom Bracket is installed it should read 68 mm. If you measure 70 or 72 mm it is an Italian. Normaly its not required to change it if you replacing the crankset. The square end on the axle is the same on all models. Puch was producing thouch up kits for motor cycles. You get them sometimes on ebay. The best way is to go to your local paint shop and compare with an available color.
Is it possible for you to scann the AD Catalog and send me via E-mail ? I´m an collector of old Puch Bikes and I still do not have the 86 Catalog
Regards from Vienna Austria

hz536n

The bottom bracket appears to be 68 mm. The axle seems to be 110 mm by calculation. Someday, when I find the AD catalog I will scan it. Trouble is, I have not located the box that has some of my old bike/camera/audio related papers inside. I have found a Suntour Cyclone 7000 crankset that may work. Any ideas on upgrades for the stock Weinnman long reach brake calipers?

Puchultima

Hy if you measure 68 it is an Britisch Threat BSC. If you like to replace it there are many from Shimano or Campagnolo available. You may install also the Shimano Oktalink Bottom Bracket with Ultegra Crankset. (I did it on my 83 puch) For upgreading the Brakes is the best if you use new Shimano or Campa Parts, they realy have an better performance than the old Weinmanns and will fit without problems

hz536n

Thanks, On the Brakes the AD has the old style long through bolt and nut. The new Brakes require a larger size hole due to shorter length bolt with recessed Allen mount style. Also I am reading that many new Brakes require new levers with return springs. Also the factory Brakes are "Long Reach" and there does not appear to be much of that type available as well. None of this stuff has been easy to adapt to my 1986 SLE.

Puchultima

I had the same problem on my 83 Puch and i drilled an lager (8mm) hole (original 6mm) to make space for the allen nut.
Its easy on the back side of the fork but its complicatet on the rear frame. For the rear frame you need an short drill bit an an verry small drilling machine or you increase the size of the hole with an reamer.

Puchultima

All Brakes are having springs on the brake caliper. The spring on the lever is only to prevent rattling of the lever. I know in the past there are Brakes with long reach and short reach. On my Puch from 83 the 2003 Shimano Dura ace will fit perfect.(and I found out short reach is too short) To prevent missmatch you should try before buy

nick burns

Phil Wood makes excellent French threaded bottom brackets should you need to replace yours.

Not all Puchs and ADs were British threaded. I have an Ultima that is Itailian threaded. I haven't come across a French threaded frame, but I wouldn't count it out. Also, if the drivetrain (fixed) cup unscrews counterclockwise, it is either French or Italian:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html

Your best bet for touchup paint is to mix it yourself. I use model paint and it works fine.

halfspeed

Shimano and Tektro both make brakes with sufficient reach for your bike. Campy does not. Harris Cyclery stocks the Shimano and Tektro models.

Puchultima

Here is an Picture of my 82 Ultima with 2003 Shimano Dura Ace Brake. I had to ream the Brake support hole on the rear frame up to 8mm to make the allen screw fit

hz536n

I sent photos to a Bike shop in Canada and here is their reply concerning the AD bottom bracket threading: "It is possible that the Austro-Daimler has Swiss thread (35 mm L & R hand threading) but it could be standard English (1.370" L & R hand) or French (35 mm R & R hand). If it is the original Nervar b/b set the knurling on the lockring edge should tell you what thread it is. If it is English the knurling will be a cross hatch but if it is French it will be a straight knurl across the edge. If it is Swiss the adjustable cup and lock ring will be the same as French but the fixed (RH) cup will have a LH thread. You will only be able to determine that by unscrewing it... the knurling on the b/b lockring appears to be straight across which would suggest French (or Swiss) thread."
I think that I will attempt to only swap the crankset on my AD. Looks like the Suntour Cyclone 7000 may be a fit.
The brake upgrade will take some study, somewhere in my reading, I recall seeing a comment about using two front brakes with the recessed mount design for older frames to deal with the rear hole access problem. Anyone know if this works?

unworthy1

Yes, that shop is correct; I sold an older A-D (1973ish) that had a Stronglight BB that was either French or Swiss thread, I never took off the fixed cup to find out. If you are thinking of using a front brake (recessed Allen style) on the rear so you can use an external nut, I have done it, but you should check first that the front fixing bolt has enough threading and is the right length and diameter (probably that one is OK) to fit. You can cut down the bolt and cut more threads with a metric die (that's what I did) for optimal fit. I also have made homebrew drop-bolts from stainless steel bolts and bar stock for that extra-extra long reach, it's not that hard with a good drill press, taps and common shop tools. I can take a couple pics if anyone's interested in seeing them...

nick burns

Harris Cyclery also sells drop bolts for about $45.00 if you're not into fabricating one on your own:

https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakes.html

hz536n

Thanks everyone. I have ordered the Shimano 600 long reach brake calipers for my AD from AEBIKES.
With new wheels and tires, cassette freewheel, NOS Suntour Cyclone 7000 crankset on the way and the new brakes I'll quit spending money for a while. Need to get after the right touchup paint though for the AD dark burgundy color.

bikenice

Can anyone give me information for the AD frame that I have? The only thing is that the last number of the serial number is scratched up a bit. I think it says 591106? My father and I are both bicycle enthusiasts and he is helping me restore it. I appreciate any information anyone can give me. I remember seeing some posts by puchultima that offered being able to find the year of production if given the serial number. Maybe you are still around this forum??? Thanks so much!

wildtoad

Based on my experience, A-D serial numbers are usually 7 digits...see the following link for a serial number chart...mostly estimates re year of manufacturer:

https://www.classicrendezvous.com/Aus...al_numbers.htm

Any photos?

ohjonnybegoode

I have what I am guessing is a mid to late '70s Puch...the serial number under the BB is 5600610...above that is stamped L2 82. I've not been able to find a way to definitively know what year the bike may be.

dudeona3V

Judging by the decals, I would guess it's a '76-'78 (Mistral Replica?) and the '82' is a random number. Does the GS crank (looks to be from here anyway) have a date stamped on it (diamond-6 or something of that nature)? That could help. Really nice bike in any case.

Panthers007

Regards touch-up paint for that wild PUCH burgundy color, I went to a nail-salon in the local mall (and got mauled). They had hundreds of colors in little bottles. I mixed two of them and hit upon the right mix. And if you make a mistake - acetone takes it right off. But water (or sweat) won't touch it.

The old PUCH's are simply wonderful machines. Very worthy of restoring and/or upgrading. Have a blast!

ohjonnybegoode

Thanks...it is a GS crank...I will definently check that out tonight and see if it does...thanks for the help!

ohjonnybegoode

I did find a tiny diamond on the back of the crank with a C inside of it...would the C represent a year?

dudeona3V

Haven't seen that before. Should be a number inside the diamond. Did you check both crank arms? Maybe the 'c' is either a worn or misstamped '6'? In that case it's a '76 (diamond = 7, number 6) so your bike is likely a '76 or a '77 built from '76 stock. Given the relatively low SN, I'd venture '76.

Puchultima

According the SN your bike is from 1977