my58vw

Alright...

I have a cannondale and the lefty front has been a pita. It is not the fork per say but the wheelset and somewhat the design. The wheels are the mavic 117's disc model. They are light but weak... did I say week. I bent the first wheel on a downhill some 3 weeks after getting the bike. Trued but is still not the same, has a slight bend in the back that can not be repaired.

Today I was going about 7 MPH down this little hill, hit the bottom and somehow ended up off the bike. I think I hit a rock or something and flew over the handle bars. Well the rim did not survive. It bent like a taco, I mean not reparable, way not reparable rim. It bent so bad that the wheel way actually rubbing on the side of the single fork. The fork and hub was not damaged.

I went to my LBS and got an estimate to re build the wheels with rinolite extra wide rims and the cost is approximatly 300 dollars. The problem is I do not know if this will happen again. I am 6'6" 230, not exactly heavy but large. I can really sprint, lots of power.

Has anyone has these types of problems with the lefty fork. I am very much considering a more traditional fork after having this many problems...

a2psyklnut

When I had my Lefty I was about your weight. I never had a problem with my front wheel. I did taco the rear, but that's a pretty common occurance for me.

Oh yeah, $300 for a wheel"set" is high, but not outrageous. For a SINGLE wheel is insane!!!!!

RhinoLite rims are about $60 to $70 MSRP, spokes about $20, another $20 for nipples, then you reuse the hub, and add $50 labor to put it all together.

So, $300 is o.k. as long as you're talking BOTH wheels.

a2psyklnut

Oh, I went back to a tradional fork. (I'm using a Marzocchi Shiver SC and a Z1) and prefer them significantly more than the LEFTY. O.k., actually went to a Psylo (with 20 mm TA) immediately after the Lefty, then to the ZOkes.

I am using a 20 mm through axle on both my forks (all my forks now and forever more).

Not saying that the Lefty was bad, I just like the Marzocchi's better.

Bike_13

It's not the Lefty (which will be a good or bad fork dependant only on one's opinion) but the wheelset/rider.

I left wheel has exactly the same stresses on it a a wheel with a conventional hub.

Assuming you are a really smooth rider, then it's the wheels. MAVIC 117s are pretty much the entry level rim, so not as sturdy as the better ones. Add a less than perfect wheel build, and you have a recipe for disaster.

You need new wheels now, so just get what you pay for (higher end MAVICs are great, RhinoLites are good too)! I don't know what wheels cost over there - but don't penny pinch, you will regret it!

Ensure you get them built properly, because even the best materials will fail if the wheel is not built well.

When you've got a good reliable wheel, ride your Lefty for a while. It won't take you too long to realise that they are as good as most of the stantion forks out there, and usually lighter. If you dont like it then, give me a PM, I could be interested.

my58vw

Ya it is for a wheelset, using cannondales hubs that are on the bike. I am a rode rider usually and I do ride xc for a change of pace. I do not ride hard (i.e. drops) but I do ride fast (thanks to road riding). The rino lites were sugested because they are suposibly strong. I know the 117 discs are not too good and need to be changed.

a2psyklnut

The Rhyno Lites are a well respected and popular rim. A lot of heavier riders (myself included) use them. I've had mine for over a year. Yeah, I tacoed the front, but ANY wheel would've folded with what I did. I replaced it and it['s been solid since!

I usually KILL rear wheels. My RHyno has held up to a lot of abuse.

my58vw

Thanks guys... I guess it is going to be awhile till I can get it fixed though... we will see what happens...

Raiyn

I'm another from the Rhyno Lite camp. Great set of rims

TimB

definately badly built wheels.

lefty front wheels are just as strong as conventional wheels. They hav spokes on both sides don't they

Also the Lefty is also a 20mm bolt on front wheel so theres no torsion effect there.

get some decent Rims, anything is better than those 117's

my58vw

Thanks guys, Ya the lefty has a 20 mm main bolt and a 5 mm bolt holding the wheel on. It seems quite strong...

BigHit-Maniac

Honestly, I'd look into a Mavic EX729 rim for your front bro. I'm running a set on my Demo-9 (Huck bike) and I've barely managed to knock them out of true, let alone bend them! No flat spots either, and I frequently run sub-20 PSI in my front tire.

They're the exact same as the old 321, just new & updated (and I think slightly lighter too). They're a dark grey in color, so I dunno if your "bling factor" will be there, but they're strong as crap and they dont have the ugly "flat" sides on em that the Rhino Lites have. They're more rounded, and look CLEAN in my opinion.

I think you can pick up each hoop for somewhere in the neighborhood of $55 USD, and then build your wheel from there.

Spokes should only cost you about $20 depending on what type you pick, and if you want double-butted or single butted to go with it. Make sure to use brass nipples if you can, they're stronger and won't "tear" like aluminum ones are prone to.

Hope that helps, and good luck with your rim. The lefty is strong, it's definitely your wheelset that's lagging..... especially for a "manimal" like you.

-Matt

a2psyklnut

I have a set of older 321's and went to the Ryno's instead. The 321's were just too much for the trails where I ride.

my58vw

I am not doing a lot of hucking, etc, more road curbs, stairs and XC. I want something that will be strong and not weight huge. I will be loking at a couple choices in the next few weeks and go from there.

I miss my MTB already...

EDIT
How do you build a wheel for the lefty? You can not mount it on a traditional stand. I saw the fake adaptors online for the lefties which look like they would work. Has anyone tried one of those?

my58vw

There is more bad news... the wheel will now not come off the spindle. Usually you take the caliper off, and unbolt the splindle bolt and it slides off...

Well the bolt will not come out, it loosen but just spins, just like when the brazon on my trek road bike broke. I am trying to persuade the wheel to come off but it will not. When I tightened it last I only went to the 15 N/m (at least that is what I think it is, written on the fork) to tighten it. I do not know what I am going to do now. My local shop does not sell cannondale, the closest shop is some 30 miles away that even sells them. I am afraid that the fork is not fixable we will see.

Going to the LBS to ask

Bike_13

Make sure you go to a Can shop.

Whilst that bolt has a 5mm allen key fitment, the thread diameter is actaully 10mm (I think). DO NOT LET ANYONE TRY TO DRILL IT OUT.

Use a 2 pin crank bolt dust cover tool to get the duct cover off the hub first - that way you can see a bit better what you are up against.

Is it a jake? or a DLR? They have AL axles, and have been prone to stripping. They can be fixed quite well with a helicoil. Search the forum.