jargoone

Hi All-

Recently purchased a Jamis Aurora for commuting, replacing my old mountain bike. This morning I ran over a cotter pin on the multi-use path. I'd changed flats on the MTB before, but not on the road, so this was an adventure. I had all the equipment, just no experience. I changed it successfully, though not efficiently, so I have a few questions.

1. What's the easiest way to position a bike with drop bars to take the back wheel off? I could just flip the MTB over, but not this one, without damaging my brifters. I would up sort of holding it up by hand, which was very awkward.

2. What's the proper way to disengage the cable from cantilever brakes (Tektro Oryx)? I had a pair of pliers in my bag and was able to grab the "nut" at the end of the cable and yank it out. Seems there must be a better way.

3. My spare tube (given to me by the LBS) is a 28, and the tire is a 32. I'm guessing it doesn't matter. Am I wrong?

4. Is it ok to use the tire lever to get the tire back on the rim? Buddy of mine says no, and I've pinched a tube on MTB doing it that way. He showed me how to get the MTB tire back on by hand, but I couldn't manage it with this one. I used the lever carefully and it was fine for the rest of the ride.

Sorry for the basic questions but I need to know for next time. Thanks for any help!

jsharr

The tektro oryx should have one end of the straddle cable that is easily removable. Squeeze the pads against the rim to put slack in the cable and remove it by hand. Some brifters have a QR release built in to make this easier.

exRunner

I am not sure what you are asking here. How does flipping your bike over damage the brifters? Mine, like I assume everyone elses, rests on the brifter hoods when it is upside down. That shouldn't cause any damage at all, as long as you don't drag the bike around on them.

woodway

1. I just flip mine over and it rests on the brifters. No big deal.

2. Just squeeze the pads to the rims and remove cable.

3. 28 tube will work fine with 32c tires

4. If you are careful not to pinch the rim, sure you can use the tire lever. I find the if I work slowly from each side, I can always get the tire back on by hand which reduces the chances of pinching the tube.

LesterOfPuppets

Like they've said, a flipped bike should sustain only a little bit of inconsequential cosmetic damage to the brifters, but a little practice and yanking a rear wheel out Tour de France style is pretty easy. Shift to smallest cog, undo brake, undo QR, grip saddle or top tube with your left hand, then slide the wheel out, giving it a little, hard-to-describe flick to get it clear of the bottom run of chain.

Your tube size is fine.

I agree with your friend in that you should avoid the use of levers for mounting tires. Try making sure the bead that's already on is nestled down into the deepest part of the rim. Just keep working the tire on, as you do the last bit will warm up and become more pliable, especially with wire bead tires. For the last little bit, I usually have the bead I'm trying to get on facing away from me and use a wringing motion with both hands simultaneously twisting the tire towards me. Wring it towards you a few times and it should pop on.

neil0502

The cycle computer, if any, is the thing to think about when you flip your bike upside down for a trail-side repair....

DallasSoxFan

1. I find a tree or something to lean against. I then loosen the back Quick Release and lift up on the seat and remove. Or, you can take off your gloves, vest, etc and protect the brifters for the flip.

2. dunno

3. Depends. The tubes come with a range of sizes. for example 700X19-26 or 700X28-32. As long as your tire is in range, you are fine.

4. Generally no. However, it is better to get the tire back on the rim than not. You shouldn't use levers, but if that's the only way you can get the tire back on, it is better than walking home.

jargoone

Thanks everyone for the replies. Recapping:

1. Apparently my brifters are not as delicate as I thought they are.

2. I tried to remove the cable by squeezing, but there wasn't enough slack. I'll consult LBS for this.

3. My tube was I believe 700x26-28. I'm going on a fairly long ride this weekend, so will have LBS replace it with a proper tube if they think I should.

4. I tried with everything I had to get the tire back on by hand, but was frustrated and irritated by that point, so I did what I had to do to get to work.

Thanks again, and hopefully I won't need this knowledge again for a while.

SJX426 

2. Your cable is really tight if you canot remove. Sometimes there is a release in the cable system to allow more slack.

3. Rubber does stretch. But if not in the range, get the right size.

4. Practice changing instead of paying the LBS to do it. Sometimes the first installation is the hardest, subsequent changes may be easier. The key to not using levers, is starting with the bead in the rim opposite the valve and making sure the bead is in the center of the rim to maximize the ability to get the bead over the rim by the valve. Work your way around both sides toward the valve with the valve area the last place to pop the bead over. Why oppisite the valve? Because you can't get the bead down in the rim with the valve in the way unless you push the valve in. Trust me, it's just easier. The reality is that if you can avoid pinching the inner tube with the lever, you will be fine. To do this, inflate the tube ever so slightly. Not so much that you cannot get the bead in the center of the rim when starting. This approach will keep the tube from getting between the bead and the rim or between the lever and the bead/rim.

Al1943

I always use tire tools to install my tires, it's the only way for me. A lot of care is needed to not damage the tube, but the same is true if no tools are used. I find that forcing some air into the tube using my mouth and lungs helps a lot to keep the tube where it belongs and to avoid damage.

Your bicycle needs to be upright, wheels on the ground with full weight on the bike when you close the skewer. The axle needs to be fully seated in the dropouts.

Al

fuzz2050

Don't worry, I'm running standard road tubes (18-25) in my 35mm tires without any issue. Have been for years, never had a problem.

njkayaker

I rest the bike on the its side on grass to remove the wheels.

If you are careful, there's no reason not to use levers to get the tire back on if you need to. I've never punctured a tube doing this.

gerv 

And perhaps your Brooks saddle.

paisan

Here's what I do

Front wheel flat, remove the wheel and set the bike down on the fork dropouts.
Rear wheel flat, find a place to lean the bike(only the bars need to be resting against something) and set the chain stays on my helmet.

Hope this helps

Homebrew01

4. Sometimes you have to use levers. But when you do, use just enough motion to get the bead in, then stop. Don't just jam the lever up to push the bead in.