26 inch straight fork
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26 inch straight fork
Hi guys, I'm actually restoring an old MTB from the '90 and I need a straight fork ( zero rake ) for 26 inch wheels because I like that shape.
I'm doing a lot of reasearch on the internet but I didn't find nothing. Do you know a website or an online shop where I can find this type of fork?
I need a fork for 26 inch wheels and cantilever brakes. My headtube is 16cm long, so I think I've to take into account that measurement for the new fork.
Any suggestions? Thanks!
I'm doing a lot of reasearch on the internet but I didn't find nothing. Do you know a website or an online shop where I can find this type of fork?
I need a fork for 26 inch wheels and cantilever brakes. My headtube is 16cm long, so I think I've to take into account that measurement for the new fork.
Any suggestions? Thanks!
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I think you want a fork with straight blades, not really zero rake. Rake is incorporated into forks one of two ways, either by curving the blades or by using straight blades attached to the fork crown at a suitable angle. I think you want the later. A true zero rake fork would give poor handling as the trail would be excessive.
#4
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Keep searching..
Beefy Moto style fork blades don't taper .. offset done at the tip , dropout welded on the front..
Some cruiser 26" wheel use this.. only need rim brakes.. bolted on long reach ..
Have a bike shop to ask? their wholesalers may have something ..
Some cruiser 26" wheel use this.. only need rim brakes.. bolted on long reach ..
Have a bike shop to ask? their wholesalers may have something ..
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First things first: What is the headset/steer tube diameter?
Second: Is it threaded or threadless?
The answer to those 2 questions will tell you at a bare minimum whether or not a suitable candidate fork will fit.
The '90's were a strange time. 1 inch threaded, 1 & 1/8 threaded, 1 & 1/4 threaded, 1 inch threadless, or lastly 1 &1/8 threadless were all in flux as each manufacturer tried various innovations & standards to 1up eachother.
With threaded, the length of the steer tube is also a consideration. A little longer is ok because you can use a couple of spacers under the top nut. Too short...Well, you *may* get lucky and find a headset with a lower stack height. Most threaded headsets are between 40-50mm stack height, but as low as 30mm can be found. My guess is you would need at a minimum approximatly 200mm worth of steer tube.
With threadless it's much more simple. Just make sure the steer tube is long enough & you can hack off the extra or use spacers to adjust your stem height to basically anywhere you want so long as the stem clamp is within a few mm of the end of the steer tube.
What is your intended use for the bike? Any bike shop can order a replacement fork of the appropriate type. A used rigid fork from a co-op would also be inexpensive if you know what you are looking for.
I had a '90's Trek hardtail. I got lucky as it had a 1 & 1/8 threaded headset. So I dropped in a standard 1 & 1/8 threadless & converted to disc forks. It gave the bike a whole new life.
You may get lucky too, depending on the answer to the above 2 questions.
Second: Is it threaded or threadless?
The answer to those 2 questions will tell you at a bare minimum whether or not a suitable candidate fork will fit.
The '90's were a strange time. 1 inch threaded, 1 & 1/8 threaded, 1 & 1/4 threaded, 1 inch threadless, or lastly 1 &1/8 threadless were all in flux as each manufacturer tried various innovations & standards to 1up eachother.
With threaded, the length of the steer tube is also a consideration. A little longer is ok because you can use a couple of spacers under the top nut. Too short...Well, you *may* get lucky and find a headset with a lower stack height. Most threaded headsets are between 40-50mm stack height, but as low as 30mm can be found. My guess is you would need at a minimum approximatly 200mm worth of steer tube.
With threadless it's much more simple. Just make sure the steer tube is long enough & you can hack off the extra or use spacers to adjust your stem height to basically anywhere you want so long as the stem clamp is within a few mm of the end of the steer tube.
What is your intended use for the bike? Any bike shop can order a replacement fork of the appropriate type. A used rigid fork from a co-op would also be inexpensive if you know what you are looking for.
I had a '90's Trek hardtail. I got lucky as it had a 1 & 1/8 threaded headset. So I dropped in a standard 1 & 1/8 threadless & converted to disc forks. It gave the bike a whole new life.
You may get lucky too, depending on the answer to the above 2 questions.
Last edited by base2; 07-10-19 at 08:40 AM.
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Well, at 1 inch your chances of finding a suspension fork will be slim to none. Let alone a suspension fork worth owning.
Try WoundUp. They have what you seem want: a non-suspension (rigid) fork with a steel, threaded, 1 inch 210mm steerer, straight blades. It'll run you about $650 and about 8-12 weeks or so delivered. They are good forks. I own 3 for various bikes.
Now would be the time to go the whole hog & upgrade to disc if you are going to blow that kind of money, already.
Custom steel forks from a frame builder like R&E Cycles will set you back around $500-$650 or so depending...
If it were me, in your situation with a 1 inch threaded steerer, I'd seriously consider a different bike if the plan was to take it anywhere rough. A whole new bike with suspension can be had for less than just the fork upgrade...
Or, a co-op for a generic random replacement fork & keep the bike as a rigid for cross country/single track/ urban use. Which is what the bike was likely designed for to begin with.
In short: Don't throw good money after bad. Your options are both expensive & limited for what you want to do.
Try WoundUp. They have what you seem want: a non-suspension (rigid) fork with a steel, threaded, 1 inch 210mm steerer, straight blades. It'll run you about $650 and about 8-12 weeks or so delivered. They are good forks. I own 3 for various bikes.
Now would be the time to go the whole hog & upgrade to disc if you are going to blow that kind of money, already.
Custom steel forks from a frame builder like R&E Cycles will set you back around $500-$650 or so depending...
If it were me, in your situation with a 1 inch threaded steerer, I'd seriously consider a different bike if the plan was to take it anywhere rough. A whole new bike with suspension can be had for less than just the fork upgrade...
Or, a co-op for a generic random replacement fork & keep the bike as a rigid for cross country/single track/ urban use. Which is what the bike was likely designed for to begin with.
In short: Don't throw good money after bad. Your options are both expensive & limited for what you want to do.
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Don't like it, way too BMX. I'm sorry for not being so much precise about the details, so here below the specs for my fork:
- 1 inch
- Threaded
- Rigid
- Straight blades
- Designed for 26 inch wheels
- Quick release dropouts
Honestly I don't want to spend 600€ for an obsolete fork model. I was wondering if there's an online shop that sell this stuff for cheap. Is it really a mission impossibile?
- 1 inch
- Threaded
- Rigid
- Straight blades
- Designed for 26 inch wheels
- Quick release dropouts
Honestly I don't want to spend 600€ for an obsolete fork model. I was wondering if there's an online shop that sell this stuff for cheap. Is it really a mission impossibile?
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Hi guys, I'm actually restoring an old MTB from the '90 and I need a straight fork ( zero rake ) for 26 inch wheels because I like that shape.
I'm doing a lot of reasearch on the internet but I didn't find nothing. Do you know a website or an online shop where I can find this type of fork?
I need a fork for 26 inch wheels and cantilever brakes. My headtube is 16cm long, so I think I've to take into account that measurement for the new fork.
Any suggestions? Thanks!
I'm doing a lot of reasearch on the internet but I didn't find nothing. Do you know a website or an online shop where I can find this type of fork?
I need a fork for 26 inch wheels and cantilever brakes. My headtube is 16cm long, so I think I've to take into account that measurement for the new fork.
Any suggestions? Thanks!
just be clear what the steerertube is 1” 1 1:8 and get looking in doing same but going lite as my heavy flexy steel fork suxs get new lite aluminum fork
canti’s for $70.00
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- 1 inch
- Threaded
- Rigid
- Straight blades
- Designed for 26 inch wheels
- Quick release dropouts
Honestly I don't want to spend 600€ for an obsolete fork model. I was wondering if there's an online shop that sell this stuff for cheap. Is it really a mission impossibile?
- Threaded
- Rigid
- Straight blades
- Designed for 26 inch wheels
- Quick release dropouts
Honestly I don't want to spend 600€ for an obsolete fork model. I was wondering if there's an online shop that sell this stuff for cheap. Is it really a mission impossibile?
What your asking for was uncommon/didn't exist even back in the '90s, the straight blade is the outlier, as MTB's really never had straight bladed forks. for getting stuff cheap, you missed that boat by about 20 years, depending on your market, cheap (take off) rigid forks had disappeared by the early '00s as all bikes by then came with suspension forks, and event the take-offs were normally 1 1/8" / threadless.
For your plan for monstercross (would look for the drop-bar MTB conversion threads on BF as they are quite useful) would do some research before putting too much time/money into any old bike, sticking dropbars on an MTB is not an easy task, as the geometry changes, and you will probably need a shorter riser stem which maybe very HTF for 1" threaded, also you probably want to start with a large bike frame than if you were using it as an MTB, although as your bike is from the early '90s (from the specs you have given) anything could go angles/size wise, as MTB design didn't really settle down till '93/4 when frames were rapidly going 1 1/8" and threadless.
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I have an '89 Diamondback Ascent and a '95 Kona Fire Mt. that have straight forks so you might want to look around for used forks from these bikes.
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Look at Amazon; I purchased a 1" threaded fork with cantilever mounts for my daughter's bike - $35. Just mahe sure you order the correct length.
#16
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Would help if the OP clarified what they meant by straight blade fork, as these really didn't exist for MTB's, there are unicrown forks with straight blades, but for the age of the bike the OP is describing, straight would mean a lugged fork (which was fairly common for road bikes at the time), or possibly an RS Mag Crown Steerer with aftermarket blades; or does the OP mean a unicrown with straights blades?
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For the specs your asking for, your probably best going to a frame builder, and asking them to build on, if it costs 600€ so be it.
What your asking for was uncommon/didn't exist even back in the '90s, the straight blade is the outlier, as MTB's really never had straight bladed forks. for getting stuff cheap, you missed that boat by about 20 years, depending on your market, cheap (take off) rigid forks had disappeared by the early '00s as all bikes by then came with suspension forks, and event the take-offs were normally 1 1/8" / threadless.
For your plan for monstercross (would look for the drop-bar MTB conversion threads on BF as they are quite useful) would do some research before putting too much time/money into any old bike, sticking dropbars on an MTB is not an easy task, as the geometry changes, and you will probably need a shorter riser stem which maybe very HTF for 1" threaded, also you probably want to start with a large bike frame than if you were using it as an MTB, although as your bike is from the early '90s (from the specs you have given) anything could go angles/size wise, as MTB design didn't really settle down till '93/4 when frames were rapidly going 1 1/8" and threadless.
What your asking for was uncommon/didn't exist even back in the '90s, the straight blade is the outlier, as MTB's really never had straight bladed forks. for getting stuff cheap, you missed that boat by about 20 years, depending on your market, cheap (take off) rigid forks had disappeared by the early '00s as all bikes by then came with suspension forks, and event the take-offs were normally 1 1/8" / threadless.
For your plan for monstercross (would look for the drop-bar MTB conversion threads on BF as they are quite useful) would do some research before putting too much time/money into any old bike, sticking dropbars on an MTB is not an easy task, as the geometry changes, and you will probably need a shorter riser stem which maybe very HTF for 1" threaded, also you probably want to start with a large bike frame than if you were using it as an MTB, although as your bike is from the early '90s (from the specs you have given) anything could go angles/size wise, as MTB design didn't really settle down till '93/4 when frames were rapidly going 1 1/8" and threadless.
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Bikeman Kona P2 Mountain Fork, 1 Inch!, Now with Rack Eyelets!
I can't tell if it is a threaded steerer tube... I don't think it is.
But you can get a 1" threadless headset, and any stem will fit (with a shim)
I can't tell if it is a threaded steerer tube... I don't think it is.
But you can get a 1" threadless headset, and any stem will fit (with a shim)