Want to Raise Handlebars on MTB to Much Higher
#1
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Want to Raise Handlebars on MTB to Much Higher
I have a 2017 Liv Bliss Lite. It has a rigid fork. It's a mtn bike so the handlebars are low. I'm trying to convert this bike to more of a comfort style bike as I only use it on paved bike paths. I'm early 40's and find the upright riding position much more comfortable for cruising around recreationally on the local bike path.
I was set on a Ritchey or Sunlite adjustable stem since I can install myself and they only cost about $40. I'm being told by people that I should NEVER use an adjustable stem ever on a Mtn bike. I explain that this bike will never see a dirt trail but that doesn't seem to sway them.
I'm also being told that an adjustable stem will tilt the handlebars towards me, but won't raise them any higher.
So then I called LBS and asked about just buying new comfort style handlebars and installation and was told about $120 for handlebars and installation (they'd need to install new cables as well since I'd need longer).
At this point I'm so confused I don't know what to do. I have a Liv(basically Giant women's bikes) mountain bike and I'd prefer a handlebar style that is higher. I'd prefer to do this with my current handlebars as it'd be cheaper, but if it's not possible, it's not possible. Can someone please help
I was set on a Ritchey or Sunlite adjustable stem since I can install myself and they only cost about $40. I'm being told by people that I should NEVER use an adjustable stem ever on a Mtn bike. I explain that this bike will never see a dirt trail but that doesn't seem to sway them.
I'm also being told that an adjustable stem will tilt the handlebars towards me, but won't raise them any higher.
So then I called LBS and asked about just buying new comfort style handlebars and installation and was told about $120 for handlebars and installation (they'd need to install new cables as well since I'd need longer).
At this point I'm so confused I don't know what to do. I have a Liv(basically Giant women's bikes) mountain bike and I'd prefer a handlebar style that is higher. I'd prefer to do this with my current handlebars as it'd be cheaper, but if it's not possible, it's not possible. Can someone please help
#2
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Rather than raising the bar or using an adjustable stem, try a different handlebar that reduces the reach a bit and gives you a more upright position. A swept back arc bar, riser bar with slight back sweep (once very popular with mountain bikes), even an albatross or North Roads bar would all accomplish this to varying degrees.
Of those handlebars, the riser bar would probably be the simplest solution. It will provide some rise and some back sweep, without changing the stem or spacers. Riser bars range from as little as 1" of rise on up. I used 1 1/2" riser bars on my rigid frame/fork hybrid for a year and found it very comfortable yet also efficient. Only recent I switched back to the original low flat bar, but that took a lot of exercise and conditioning to improve my back and neck flexibility.
And these should allow reusing the same shifters and brakes, although you may need longer cables.
Meanwhile, keep your original handlebar. As you ride and your conditioning improves you may want to return to a lower position. I did, after a year on an upright comfort hybrid. Now, two years later, I find the original upright position less comfortable and very inefficient, especially on even moderate hills. But it took several months of riding 3-5 times a week to get to that point. If I'd ridden less often I might not have noticed the difference, especially if all my rides were on flat terrain.
Of those handlebars, the riser bar would probably be the simplest solution. It will provide some rise and some back sweep, without changing the stem or spacers. Riser bars range from as little as 1" of rise on up. I used 1 1/2" riser bars on my rigid frame/fork hybrid for a year and found it very comfortable yet also efficient. Only recent I switched back to the original low flat bar, but that took a lot of exercise and conditioning to improve my back and neck flexibility.
And these should allow reusing the same shifters and brakes, although you may need longer cables.
Meanwhile, keep your original handlebar. As you ride and your conditioning improves you may want to return to a lower position. I did, after a year on an upright comfort hybrid. Now, two years later, I find the original upright position less comfortable and very inefficient, especially on even moderate hills. But it took several months of riding 3-5 times a week to get to that point. If I'd ridden less often I might not have noticed the difference, especially if all my rides were on flat terrain.
#3
Mechanic/Tourist
+1 Make sure you get the correct diameter bar both at the stem and where the levers are mounted. This search shows a very wide variety of shapes and prices, most well below the $40 you were going to spend: Google handlebar search
I would note, though that an adjustable stem inevitably raises the handlebars as it pivots to move them closer horizontally. Also, I would assume you are replacing the saddle, as the original is not suitable for a more upright sitting position, where much more weight is on it. Again, keep the old saddle.
I would note, though that an adjustable stem inevitably raises the handlebars as it pivots to move them closer horizontally. Also, I would assume you are replacing the saddle, as the original is not suitable for a more upright sitting position, where much more weight is on it. Again, keep the old saddle.
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 09-23-17 at 06:41 AM.
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I have a 2017 Liv Bliss Lite.... I'm trying to convert this bike to more of a comfort style bike as I only use it on paved bike paths. I ...find the upright riding position much more comfortable...
I was set on a Ritchey or Sunlite adjustable stem since I can install myself and they only cost about $40. I'm being told by people that I should NEVER use an adjustable stem ever on a Mtn bike. I explain that this bike will never see a dirt trail but that doesn't seem to sway them.
I was set on a Ritchey or Sunlite adjustable stem since I can install myself and they only cost about $40. I'm being told by people that I should NEVER use an adjustable stem ever on a Mtn bike. I explain that this bike will never see a dirt trail but that doesn't seem to sway them.
I've used adjustable stems on My commuters w/o any drama.
A little heavy, a little squeaky. A bit ugly. But basically functional.
Assuming you start from horizontal, any single-joint adjustable stem will swing the bar up-and-back. There's simply no way around that.
However, some don't/ aren't supposed to adjust very far.
Usually the grading stops way earlier than the actual mechanical degree of motion though.
The lbs has a point so far that staying within the intended range of motion doesn't provide that much lift.
Maybe 2" or so.
(Example only, other brands/suppliers available.)
Those will bring your current bar mostly up. And a little back due to the angle of the head tube.
If you want to keep your current bars, a steerer tube extender and a shorter stem is probably your best bet.
There's a good chance that extender + shorter stem would let you keep your cables, as the rise is offset by the shorter stem.
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Ignore the nay-sayers. An adjustable stem is fine for your application. As the stem rotates to raise the bars, the bars will also move somewhat closer in. That's ok. Generally speaking, when you raise your bars, you also want to shorten the stem at the same time. Because raising the bars will tend to have you sitting more upright on the bike, and that reduces the distance that your arms can reach.
Another option, and one that I myself prefer because of appearances sake, is to buy some riser bars and a shorter stem. Thing is, you have to be comfortable throwing down the money for those items knowing that whatever choices you make for rise and stem length might not work out.
Save all the parts, because parts give options later. And it's worth spending the money to experiment and get a good fit that helps you to enjoy your time on the bike.
Another option, and one that I myself prefer because of appearances sake, is to buy some riser bars and a shorter stem. Thing is, you have to be comfortable throwing down the money for those items knowing that whatever choices you make for rise and stem length might not work out.
Save all the parts, because parts give options later. And it's worth spending the money to experiment and get a good fit that helps you to enjoy your time on the bike.
#6
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Hammering single track hard an adjustable stem may not hold up to rough treatment for as long as you wish.
JRA on gravel roads it should be adequate, but creaky with parts that move against each other, that make it adjustable..
Forks when made have long steerer tubes , I expect somwhere in making the bike up someone decided how long the steerer tube should be
before you got it,
Perhaps the dealer that sold you the bike Can get an un cut replacement fork, then the height choice becomes yours personally..
...
JRA on gravel roads it should be adequate, but creaky with parts that move against each other, that make it adjustable..
Forks when made have long steerer tubes , I expect somwhere in making the bike up someone decided how long the steerer tube should be
before you got it,
Perhaps the dealer that sold you the bike Can get an un cut replacement fork, then the height choice becomes yours personally..
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 09-23-17 at 09:10 AM.
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I have a 2017 Liv Bliss Lite. It has a rigid fork. It's a mtn bike so the handlebars are low. I'm trying to convert this bike to more of a comfort style bike as I only use it on paved bike paths. I'm early 40's and find the upright riding position much more comfortable for cruising around recreationally on the local bike path.
I was set on a Ritchey or Sunlite adjustable stem since I can install myself and they only cost about $40. I'm being told by people that I should NEVER use an adjustable stem ever on a Mtn bike. I explain that this bike will never see a dirt trail but that doesn't seem to sway them.
I'm also being told that an adjustable stem will tilt the handlebars towards me, but won't raise them any higher.
So then I called LBS and asked about just buying new comfort style handlebars and installation and was told about $120 for handlebars and installation (they'd need to install new cables as well since I'd need longer).
At this point I'm so confused I don't know what to do. I have a Liv(basically Giant women's bikes) mountain bike and I'd prefer a handlebar style that is higher. I'd prefer to do this with my current handlebars as it'd be cheaper, but if it's not possible, it's not possible. Can someone please help
I was set on a Ritchey or Sunlite adjustable stem since I can install myself and they only cost about $40. I'm being told by people that I should NEVER use an adjustable stem ever on a Mtn bike. I explain that this bike will never see a dirt trail but that doesn't seem to sway them.
I'm also being told that an adjustable stem will tilt the handlebars towards me, but won't raise them any higher.
So then I called LBS and asked about just buying new comfort style handlebars and installation and was told about $120 for handlebars and installation (they'd need to install new cables as well since I'd need longer).
At this point I'm so confused I don't know what to do. I have a Liv(basically Giant women's bikes) mountain bike and I'd prefer a handlebar style that is higher. I'd prefer to do this with my current handlebars as it'd be cheaper, but if it's not possible, it's not possible. Can someone please help
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in practice they get adjusted Once, and then left in that position forever.
just buy a fixed stem that is in the position you want.
Lighter, stronger, won't creak when it gets old, Cheaper? (at least one of those reasons should apply to anyone, pick yours)
*maybe* you could argue an adjustable stem has merit for experimenting with a new bike fitting. But once you have that dialed in there's no benefit and you might as well swap it for the equivalent fixed stem.
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you should never use an adjustable stem on ANY bike.
in practice they get adjusted Once, and then left in that position forever.
just buy a fixed stem that is in the position you want.
Lighter, stronger, won't creak when it gets old, Cheaper? (at least one of those reasons should apply to anyone, pick yours)
*maybe* you could argue an adjustable stem has merit for experimenting with a new bike fitting. But once you have that dialed in there's no benefit and you might as well swap it for the equivalent fixed stem.
in practice they get adjusted Once, and then left in that position forever.
just buy a fixed stem that is in the position you want.
Lighter, stronger, won't creak when it gets old, Cheaper? (at least one of those reasons should apply to anyone, pick yours)
*maybe* you could argue an adjustable stem has merit for experimenting with a new bike fitting. But once you have that dialed in there's no benefit and you might as well swap it for the equivalent fixed stem.
Also, I'm fully capable of swapping out a stem myself. I'm more than happy to buy it from LBS though.
Any suggestions? I have a 2017 Liv Bliss Lite (it's basically a Giant) with rigid forks. I want the bars higher and slightly closer to me. I like comfort bike type handlebars.
#10
Junior Member
The best options have been listed.
New riser handlebars.
Steeper angled + shorter stem.
Steering tube extender.
I somewhat agree about only using an adjustable stem for short term to dial in what angle works best, then getting a rigid equivalent.
I highly doubt you will be adjusting things so dramatically that it will call for a new cabling. You seem to have enough slack to make a good amount of change before issues arise.
If I were you, I'd start with Riser Bars. Something like 1 1/2 inch or 40mm to 50mm rise. Be mindful to match stem sizes (appears you need 31.8).
Do only one thing at a time. Don't get a whole bunch of parts and throw them on. If the riser bars work, sweet. If they alone still don't cut it, then swap the stem for shorter & steeper angle.
Before doing anything, try this... While on your bike, try to get an idea of how much higher or closer you wish to get things. Extend your fingers out on your grips to hold and stabilize. Find the comfort zone for your arms and back. Make a mental note of approximately how far away your palms are from where the handlebar is. Getting a ballpark range in your head might help you decide on which size or rise of parts to get.
Race Face Respond, Spank Spike 800, or Truvativ Hussefelt riser bars might be some of the examples of bars that can suit your needs.
New riser handlebars.
Steeper angled + shorter stem.
Steering tube extender.
I somewhat agree about only using an adjustable stem for short term to dial in what angle works best, then getting a rigid equivalent.
I highly doubt you will be adjusting things so dramatically that it will call for a new cabling. You seem to have enough slack to make a good amount of change before issues arise.
If I were you, I'd start with Riser Bars. Something like 1 1/2 inch or 40mm to 50mm rise. Be mindful to match stem sizes (appears you need 31.8).
Do only one thing at a time. Don't get a whole bunch of parts and throw them on. If the riser bars work, sweet. If they alone still don't cut it, then swap the stem for shorter & steeper angle.
Before doing anything, try this... While on your bike, try to get an idea of how much higher or closer you wish to get things. Extend your fingers out on your grips to hold and stabilize. Find the comfort zone for your arms and back. Make a mental note of approximately how far away your palms are from where the handlebar is. Getting a ballpark range in your head might help you decide on which size or rise of parts to get.
Race Face Respond, Spank Spike 800, or Truvativ Hussefelt riser bars might be some of the examples of bars that can suit your needs.
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https://momentummag.com/wp-content/u...alous-lead.jpg
#12
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This chart might help you get an idea about stem choices.
It would also help you to know what your current stem dimensions are. To know how much rise or reach difference your adding or subtracting.
Chances are you want something with a higher degree angle, yet shorter.
It would also help you to know what your current stem dimensions are. To know how much rise or reach difference your adding or subtracting.
Chances are you want something with a higher degree angle, yet shorter.
Last edited by Karmajack; 09-24-17 at 07:51 AM.
#13
Mechanic/Tourist
From pics online your bike does not have a very long stem, therefore neither a shorter one nor an adjustable will make things much higher or easier to reach. I would therefore suggest either a riser extension or riser bars.
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I pulled up the Bliss Lite spec page, it shows this bike is available in 3 sizes; XS, S and M. What size do you have? I find it hard to believe that there is no room for any parts swapping without having to replace cables and such, you should be able to gain a bit without signification cost. Can you post any pictures of the bike?
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Let me circle back to your statement above. Can you clarify just how upright you are asking to be? For example, is the following image representative of what you are after?
https://momentummag.com/wp-content/u...alous-lead.jpg
https://momentummag.com/wp-content/u...alous-lead.jpg
https://www.davescheapbikes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Couple-riding-comfort-bikes.jpeg
Or like this bike https://s7d5.scene7.com/is/image/Specialized/166142?$small$
#16
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Pull back cruiser bars will let you sit more upright , a new set of cables may be needed
to reach the new comfortablde upright JRA position.. shifters and brakes..
to reach the new comfortablde upright JRA position.. shifters and brakes..
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I'd start with a high rise stem:
I would ride with that a while, then if you want more height get some high rise handlebars, maybe swept back a bit to bring them closer to you:
Swapping out the handlebars might require longer cables, but swapping the stem will probably be easy.
I would ride with that a while, then if you want more height get some high rise handlebars, maybe swept back a bit to bring them closer to you:
Swapping out the handlebars might require longer cables, but swapping the stem will probably be easy.
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I have a medium frame. Link to picture of bike https://imgur.com/RG5MoXZ
Here is a stem that should get you up a couple of inches. I can't find a chart that gives the specs on the Liv Lite stem but I'm guessing it's about a 6 degree that's 60-80mm long. I'll link a stem that's 45 degree by 90mm and plot the two on a stem calculator to give you an idea of the gain by switching these stems.
According to my estimation of the current stem compared to the stem I linked you will be 50 mm (2 inches) higher and 25 mm (1 inch) closer. If you can change the stems (very easy) you're only looking at $12.50 out of pocket.
±45° WAKE Aluminium Alloy Bicycle Stem MTB Road bike Handlebar Stem 31.8*90mm | eBay
Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net
Sorry, the stem calculator doesn't hold values in the link,
#19
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I would agree with @tyrion on the 45 degree stem and maybe the bars, if you have enough cable to do both but changing out the stem would be the easiest for you to do yourself avoiding the cost of having a shop do it.
Here is a stem that should get you up a couple of inches. I can't find a chart that gives the specs on the Liv Lite stem but I'm guessing it's about a 6 degree that's 60-80mm long. I'll link a stem that's 45 degree by 90mm and plot the two on a stem calculator to give you an idea of the gain by switching these stems.
According to my estimation of the current stem compared to the stem I linked you will be 50 mm (2 inches) higher and 25 mm (1 inch) closer. If you can change the stems (very easy) you're only looking at $12.50 out of pocket.
±45° WAKE Aluminium Alloy Bicycle Stem MTB Road bike Handlebar Stem 31.8*90mm | eBay
Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net
Sorry, the stem calculator doesn't hold values in the link,
Here is a stem that should get you up a couple of inches. I can't find a chart that gives the specs on the Liv Lite stem but I'm guessing it's about a 6 degree that's 60-80mm long. I'll link a stem that's 45 degree by 90mm and plot the two on a stem calculator to give you an idea of the gain by switching these stems.
According to my estimation of the current stem compared to the stem I linked you will be 50 mm (2 inches) higher and 25 mm (1 inch) closer. If you can change the stems (very easy) you're only looking at $12.50 out of pocket.
±45° WAKE Aluminium Alloy Bicycle Stem MTB Road bike Handlebar Stem 31.8*90mm | eBay
Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net
Sorry, the stem calculator doesn't hold values in the link,
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New Orleans is a big city, I bet if you called around, you could find a bike shop or co-op that would help you for less.
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Here is a good video of changing out a stem. It's an easy to do job, you shouldn't have any problems.