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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 12-29-19, 06:25 AM
  #22026  
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Originally Posted by PeterLYoung View Post
I never remove the nut and washer just slacken it a little (say quarter to half a turn) then use the press every time the press pushes the nut down onto the crank slacken it a little until the cotter pin is ready to fall out, then completely remove the nut and washer. This way you are unlikely to bend the threaded section because it is supported by the nut. I have always found this to work, of course there will always be the exception but for me has been rare.
Yes! keep the nut on there!
Just back it off a little.
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Old 12-29-19, 09:37 AM
  #22027  
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What's missing?

I'm having a hard time finding a parts diagram of this Sturmey front hub for washer orientation. This is how I got it. Shouldn't it at least have one locknut on the one adjustable cone?
I have not de greased the rear hub yet.
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Old 12-29-19, 10:09 AM
  #22028  
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No locknuts. The right (drive) side cone should be spun on all the way down to the threads. The adjustable cone goes on the left side. This way the spinning wheel won't over tighten the cone and lock the wheel.
Insert the wheel into the bike, tighten right side axle nut then adjust the left cone to correct tightness and cinch the left axle nut down, using the cone wrench to hold in place. It works pretty well.
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Old 12-29-19, 10:57 AM
  #22029  
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Originally Posted by clubman View Post
No locknuts. The right (drive) side cone should be spun on all the way down to the threads. The adjustable cone goes on the left side. This way the spinning wheel won't over tighten the cone and lock the wheel.
Insert the wheel into the bike, tighten right side axle nut then adjust the left cone to correct tightness and cinch the left axle nut down, using the cone wrench to hold in place. It works pretty well.
Thanks. This is new to me. So the big fat washer goes on the drive side and the stamped washer goes on the non drive side as pictured?
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Old 12-29-19, 11:32 AM
  #22030  
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The odd washers must be there to centre the wheel . Normally they're the same size but see what happens in the fork drops. Use what you need.
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Old 12-29-19, 11:48 AM
  #22031  
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Originally Posted by clubman View Post
The odd washers must be there to centre the wheel . Normally they're the same size but see what happens in the fork drops. Use what you need.
Thanks much.
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Old 12-29-19, 02:20 PM
  #22032  
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Originally Posted by FBOATSB View Post
Thanks. This is new to me. So the big fat washer goes on the drive side and the stamped washer goes on the non drive side as pictured?
A little trick I use to remember is that the adjustable cone of the front wheel should be on the same side of the bike as the adjustable cone on the 3 speed hub. (left)
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Old 12-29-19, 02:47 PM
  #22033  
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Originally Posted by BigChief View Post
A little trick I use to remember is that the adjustable cone of the front wheel should be on the same side of the bike as the adjustable cone on the 3 speed hub. (left)
Thanks. I like the simplicity of these hubs. I am planning on just cleaning, wax, and spot treating any bubbled paint and scrapes on the frame. Decals and pin striping to fragile for much polishing IMO. Every thing including rims is cleaning up nicely. In my fiscal weakness, I am considering replacing the dark dingy spokes with SS as well.
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Old 12-31-19, 01:45 PM
  #22034  
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Originally Posted by FBOATSB View Post

Edit: Would a Sports have had one of these on it on the seventies?
I have a 1968 Raleigh Sprite with one of those, interesting to read that it is a "lamp bracket". So Raleigh made a headlight that just hooked over the top of it and just hung there?
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Old 12-31-19, 02:18 PM
  #22035  
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Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
I have a 1968 Raleigh Sprite with one of those, interesting to read that it is a "lamp bracket". So Raleigh made a headlight that just hooked over the top of it and just hung there?
Yup.
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Old 12-31-19, 02:39 PM
  #22036  
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Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
I have a 1968 Raleigh Sprite with one of those, interesting to read that it is a "lamp bracket". So Raleigh made a headlight that just hooked over the top of it and just hung there?
Yes, the headlamp has a clamp that fits on there.
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Old 12-31-19, 04:54 PM
  #22037  
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Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
I have a 1968 Raleigh Sprite with one of those, interesting to read that it is a "lamp bracket". So Raleigh made a headlight that just hooked over the top of it and just hung there?
Yes, also works as a bottle (beer) opener.
Happy New Year!
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Old 12-31-19, 05:01 PM
  #22038  
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Here's one with the lamp in place.


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Old 01-01-20, 12:46 PM
  #22039  
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Originally Posted by FBOATSB View Post
Thanks. This is new to me. So the big fat washer goes on the drive side and the stamped washer goes on the non drive side as pictured?
My recollection is that these hubs could be found on Sports and Superbe bikes and also on Sprites and (probably) Records, and the like. Spacing on the roadsters is 90mm and on the Sprite et al, 100mm. So, the axles on the Sprites et al were longer and the fat washers were to make up the space between the fork ends and the cones. I've seen that configuration, anyway, but don't know if it was a Raleigh Rule, if there ever were such a thing. If you're using this axle on a fork configured for 90mm spacing and with those regular nuts, it wouldn't be necessary to use a fat (5mm, I think) washer at all. If you had "R" nuts, you'ld want to put one on each side to keep the axle from poking your "R" out. That's my story, anyway.
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Old 01-01-20, 06:55 PM
  #22040  
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Picked up this Raleigh Colt today for $20 bucks. Lots of work to be done on it, need to get rid of all this rust. Looks to be a 1969 from the hub has 26x13/8 rims. I did notice the non drive side crank arm is bent a little bit. The rear fender has all kinds fo dents and a bent stay that I already straigtened. The frame looked straight otherwise.















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Old 01-01-20, 07:01 PM
  #22041  
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The shift cable pulley is interesting.





Dry hub. But i think im going to have to pull it apart because when I tried pulling the plastic cover it broke and im sure some pieces fell into the hub.

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Old 01-01-20, 07:27 PM
  #22042  
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Originally Posted by jamesj View Post
The shift cable pulley is interesting.





Dry hub. But i think im going to have to pull it apart because when I tried pulling the plastic cover it broke and im sure some pieces fell into the hub.

For $20.00, you can't go wrong.
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Old 01-02-20, 05:56 AM
  #22043  
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Originally Posted by jamesj View Post
Picked up this Raleigh Colt today for $20 bucks. Lots of work to be done on it, need to get rid of all this rust. Looks to be a 1969 from the hub has 26x13/8 rims. I did notice the non drive side crank arm is bent a little bit. The rear fender has all kinds fo dents and a bent stay that I already straigtened. The frame looked straight otherwise.

Good find. This is a nice bike and very well worth fixing up. The boys Colt has a hump back top tube. I like this step through Colt better because it's exactly like the full sized Sports. These are perfect for anyone who wants a classic roadster but isn't tall enough to fit on one. I like that it's old enough to avoid the changes made in the 70s. I would add a rear hand brake even though it has a coaster in the hub.
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Old 01-02-20, 11:08 AM
  #22044  
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Originally Posted by FBOATSB View Post
I'm having a hard time finding a parts diagram of this Sturmey front hub for washer orientation. This is how I got it. Shouldn't it at least have one locknut on the one adjustable cone?
I have not de greased the rear hub yet.
I have just overhauled a Vintage Raleigh Front Hub and the arrangement is the same, ie. No Locknuts, RH Cone has no flats and is tightened against the end of the thread on spindle. LH Cone has flats and is finally adjusted once the wheel is in the forks using the wheel nut to act as lock nut and securing nut for wheel. In the case of this hub there are safety bosses on the Cones to locate the wheel in the fork. It is very important that the adjustable Cone is on the LH (non drive) side of bike so it cannot self tighten seize and destroy the hub. See photo below.


No flats on RH Cone, flats visible on LH Cone. Gap between Cones and Washers due to safety bosses to locate cones in forks.
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Old 01-02-20, 11:28 AM
  #22045  
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Originally Posted by PeterLYoung View Post
I have just overhauled a Vintage Raleigh Front Hub and the arrangement is the same, ie. No Locknuts, RH Cone has no flats and is tightened against the end of the thread on spindle. LH Cone has flats and is finally adjusted once the wheel is in the forks using the wheel nut to act as lock nut and securing nut for wheel. In the case of this hub there are safety bosses on the Cones to locate the wheel in the fork. It is very important that the adjustable Cone is on the LH (non drive) side of bike so it cannot self tighten seize and destroy the hub. See photo below.


No flats on RH Cone, flats visible on LH Cone. Gap between Cones and Washers due to safety bosses to locate cones in forks.
Thank you. I had this explained further up and I have been reading some articles on the Sheldon Brown archives as well. Very interesting.
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Old 01-02-20, 08:29 PM
  #22046  
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So what does anyone use to clean the rust off the frame. Im not wanting to dip it in oxalic at this point as most of it seems to be surface rust. What would you all use to get the bigger spots of rust off? I know about using Scratch X but I don't think that pulls off rust.
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Old 01-02-20, 08:43 PM
  #22047  
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Originally Posted by jamesj View Post
So what does anyone use to clean the rust off the frame. Im not wanting to dip it in oxalic at this point as most of it seems to be surface rust. What would you all use to get the bigger spots of rust off? I know about using Scratch X but I don't think that pulls off rust.
Lemon juice and vinegar are worth a few light soaks and passes with a gentle scrubbie. I found some fab Korean pot scrubbers with a delicate metal-looking mesh that I suspect is a plastic product. They work well.
Really bad rust may tolerate some Naval Jelly (for steel, not alu)
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Old 01-02-20, 08:52 PM
  #22048  
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Barkeeper's Friend is usually easy to find, comes in a gel/paste, and actually contains oxalic acid. You don't need to soak anything in it, but use it as an abrasive, and it'll remove/neutralize rust.
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Old 01-03-20, 04:16 AM
  #22049  
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is it possible to fit a disassembled 21” Sportster into a large luggage?

i am living in Hong Kong this year, and i am bikeless. and it is killing my feet,having to walk everywhere.

so i found a bike store with a brand new Flying Pigeon-like bike with 26” wheel, for only $100.

i like to buy it, use it here touring, and than bring it backwith me to the States.

what do u think? is it possible to bring it back?



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Old 01-03-20, 04:52 AM
  #22050  
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Originally Posted by mtb_addict View Post
is it possible to fit a disassembled 21 Sportster into a large luggage?

i am living in Hong Kong this year, and i am bikeless. and it is killing my feet,having to walk everywhere.

so i found a bike store with a brand new Flying Pigeon-like bike with 26 wheel, for only $100.

i like to buy it, use it here touring, and than bring it backwith me to the States.

what do u think? is it possible to bring it back?


Should not matter. Buy it and ride it during your stay there. If you decide you still want it ship it home in pieces boxed up. That appears to be a Raleigh knock off NTTAWWT. Can you post pics of the decals and head badge? Interesting.
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