Need A 32mm Headset Wrench Now But Which One For Possible Future Use?
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Need A 32mm Headset Wrench Now But Which One For Possible Future Use?
Needing a 32mm headset wrench for a threaded steerer, I took a look at what Park Tool has. They offer 3 double-ended wrenches having 32mm on one side and 15mm, 30mm and 36mm on the opposite. Meanwhile, Pedro's offers a single-ended 32mm wrench that's a little cheaper.
Might anyone here say if or when I may come to need either 30mm or 36mm? I already have a 15mm wrench and won't need another.
BTW, I already have an adjustable wrench but, for those who don't already know from experience, will need a second dedicated headset wrench to insert into a tight space of about 1/8" or 3.5mm.
Might anyone here say if or when I may come to need either 30mm or 36mm? I already have a 15mm wrench and won't need another.
BTW, I already have an adjustable wrench but, for those who don't already know from experience, will need a second dedicated headset wrench to insert into a tight space of about 1/8" or 3.5mm.
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Or you could go down to your local neighborhood Harbor Freight and by a 16" crescent wrench for under $10 . A 15mm open end wrench from same place will work on most pedals. I use a short 15 mm wrench . With a couple taps from a ball peen hammer on the wrench the pedals always come off.
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You did not mention the length of the 15mm wrench you have. Assuming it is a common combination with a box 15 on one end and an 15 open on the other, you may not have met your match in the leverage wars when removing pedals. Good for you if that's the case. You may be stronger than the rest of us. A long 15, such as the Park 32/15, can be very handy when a pedal is reluctant to break loose.
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Or you could go down to your local neighborhood Harbor Freight and by a 16" crescent wrench for under $10 . A 15mm open end wrench from same place will work on most pedals. I use a short 15 mm wrench . With a couple taps from a ball peen hammer on the wrench the pedals always come off.
I used to tighten my pedals fairly tight. Now a 6" wrench is plenty. A real bonus with pedal removal/swapping becoming an everyday occurrence instead every few years. Heck, now we take pedals off just to weigh our bikes!
Ben
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A little off topic but ... there is absolutely no reason to have pedals on so tight they require anything unusual to remove. Their thread directions are chosen so they self tighten as you ride. In the rare case where the pedal bearings freeze up, a not so tight pedal thread means the pedal cleated to your foot will unscrew instead of rotating you. (Pedal wrenches are as big as they are so shop mechanics can deal with someone else's over-tightening, no so they can honk the pedal on that tight o though some of them do.)
I used to tighten my pedals fairly tight. Now a 6" wrench is plenty. A real bonus with pedal removal/swapping becoming an everyday occurrence instead every few years. Heck, now we take pedals off just to weigh our bikes!
Ben
I used to tighten my pedals fairly tight. Now a 6" wrench is plenty. A real bonus with pedal removal/swapping becoming an everyday occurrence instead every few years. Heck, now we take pedals off just to weigh our bikes!
Ben
Note to the OP: The 32/36 headset wrench is more likely to be the most useful. However, threaded headsets and forks are becoming increasing rare and 1-1/8" threaded headsets were never been made in great numbers. Threadless forks and headsets have become almost universal standards on bikes since the late '90's. So, unless you are working on a fleet of older bikes, don't splurge on the headset wrench.
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They're ridiculously common today on inexpensive hybrid/comfort bikes in the 200-400$ range. About 90% of the stock at the shop I work at falls into that category.
cheaper (walmart) bikes, 1" threaded
while more expensive (real) bikes, 1 1/8" threadless
but right in the middle, 1 1/8" threaded persists.
Of course, good odds most of the demographic on this forum doesn't ride bikes in that range.... but for casual riders its very common
cheaper (walmart) bikes, 1" threaded
while more expensive (real) bikes, 1 1/8" threadless
but right in the middle, 1 1/8" threaded persists.
Of course, good odds most of the demographic on this forum doesn't ride bikes in that range.... but for casual riders its very common
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...Park makes several headset wrenches, and they might all be OK now. But in the past I have had some complaints about the precision with which they have been cut to size. This is old experience, and I haven't bought a headset wrench in many years.
...Park makes several headset wrenches, and they might all be OK now. But in the past I have had some complaints about the precision with which they have been cut to size. This is old experience, and I haven't bought a headset wrench in many years.
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They're ridiculously common today on inexpensive hybrid/comfort bikes in the 200-400$ range. About 90% of the stock at the shop I work at falls into that category........Of course, good odds most of the demographic on this forum doesn't ride bikes in that range.... but for casual riders its very common
The OP didn't say but if he works at a Bike Co-op or something similar he may indeed need good threaded headset wrenches.
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You did not mention the length of the 15mm wrench you have. Assuming it is a common combination with a box 15 on one end and an 15 open on the other, you may not have met your match in the leverage wars when removing pedals. Good for you if that's the case. You may be stronger than the rest of us. A long 15, such as the Park 32/15, can be very handy when a pedal is reluctant to break loose.
The 36 mm headset wrench sounds more useful than it probably is because 1 1/8 threaded headsets weren't popular for very long.
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