For the love of English 3 speeds...
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Strong magic required here. By very nature of it's design, this is a physical impossibility.1st and third use the same gear with the power flow reversed. In first the power flows from the ring gear to the planet carrier, and in 3rd, it flows from the planet carrier to the ring gear.
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Strong magic required here. By very nature of it's design, this is a physical impossibility.1st and third use the same gear with the power flow reversed. In first the power flows from the ring gear to the planet carrier, and in 3rd, it flows from the planet carrier to the ring gear.
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Even though I had my AG hub completely in pieces, I cannot quite visualize how the clutch changes the way the hub engages. In high gear, it was clear that the planet carrier was being engaged. In second, the clutch lifts off the planet carrier, but what is engaged at that point, and when it is pulled further out, what is the clutch doing?
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Okay, not a 3-speed and not an IGH, but this 23" 5-speed Sprite on Boston's CL seems remarkably well preserved:
https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/bi...809349183.html
https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/bi...809349183.html
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Even though I had my AG hub completely in pieces, I cannot quite visualize how the clutch changes the way the hub engages. In high gear, it was clear that the planet carrier was being engaged. In second, the clutch lifts off the planet carrier, but what is engaged at that point, and when it is pulled further out, what is the clutch doing?
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There're only 3 speeds to play with....
Last edited by gster; 02-08-19 at 08:32 PM.
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Nice c.1950 23" Sports in Vermont. Can't see much in these photos. Missing original chainguard and pedals. Rims and saddle look good though. Good looking bike.
https://vermont.craigslist.org/bik/d...799705338.html
https://vermont.craigslist.org/bik/d...799705338.html
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Well, thanks to you enablers, I am tearing into the 1964 Huffeigh Sportsman now. Got the cotters out with a modified chain breaker, and even got the crank out. Rust and crud inside. Good call I think on disassembly. I want to start with some grease, and in later years oil down the seat tube. After seeing the axle, it would seem that for oil to get to the bearings, one would be advised to put the bike on its side and work pedals, and then the other side. I think I may get the park tool HCW-11 so as not to have to use a punch and hammer again.
Yes, one pedal was quite stiff so that is apart now. Maybe take the steering head bearings out tomorrow. Can the rear hub bearings be serviced without taking the 3-speed mechanism apart? A bit challenging working on a 50+ year old bike, but a good winter project.
Yes, one pedal was quite stiff so that is apart now. Maybe take the steering head bearings out tomorrow. Can the rear hub bearings be serviced without taking the 3-speed mechanism apart? A bit challenging working on a 50+ year old bike, but a good winter project.
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Okay, not a 3-speed and not an IGH, but this 23" 5-speed Sprite on Boston's CL seems remarkably well preserved:
https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/bi...809349183.html
https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/bi...809349183.html
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As reliable and simple these bikes might be, there are a lot of details that need to be right for them to work properly.
In particular, the shifting system.
I have an unmolested Suberebe in the garage that I use as my "control" for figuring out cable lengths and routing..
A nice graceful sweep of the cable from the trigger to the stop certainly helps.
The original cables came in different lengths depending on their application. I often see a bike with a shorter cable installed that clearly is too tight.
Both for function as well as aesthetics.
In particular, the shifting system.
I have an unmolested Suberebe in the garage that I use as my "control" for figuring out cable lengths and routing..
A nice graceful sweep of the cable from the trigger to the stop certainly helps.
The original cables came in different lengths depending on their application. I often see a bike with a shorter cable installed that clearly is too tight.
Both for function as well as aesthetics.
Last edited by gster; 02-09-19 at 09:11 AM.
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Taking the old hub apart, getting it completely clean like new, and then reassembling is one of the most satisfying parts of owning one of these!
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At first, I was hesitant to take one apart but finally took the plunge. The posted rebuild video really helps. Community bike shops will usually have a hub for a small fee ($5.00) that you can practice on, although they are easier to get apart when laced to a rim.
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Okay, not a 3-speed and not an IGH, but this 23" 5-speed Sprite on Boston's CL seems remarkably well preserved:
https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/bi...809349183.html
https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/bi...809349183.html
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Eventually
Eventually I will service the hub. A lot to do so far with this 64 to really bring it into half way decent riding condition.
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Okay, not a 3-speed and not an IGH, but this 23" 5-speed Sprite on Boston's CL seems remarkably well preserved:
https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/bi...809349183.html
https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/bi...809349183.html
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Nice older 23" Sports, but it looks like that Brooks is about to give out.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...815697431.html
bicycle type: cruiser
frame size: 26''
wheel size: 26 in Really cool vintage 60's 3 speed English cruiser in great condition! 26inch classic bike that's a good size for someone 5ft 5 to 6ft tall. Needs a new inner-tube for the front wheel(only a few bucks). Call show contact info
to come by. 5502 Sherman Terrace.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...815697431.html
1960's Raleigh Sport 3speed bike english - $75 (Chesterfield, VA)
bicycle type: cruiser
frame size: 26''
wheel size: 26 in Really cool vintage 60's 3 speed English cruiser in great condition! 26inch classic bike that's a good size for someone 5ft 5 to 6ft tall. Needs a new inner-tube for the front wheel(only a few bucks). Call show contact info
to come by. 5502 Sherman Terrace.
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Wish I was nearby - it’s a nice looking bike but the wheels (rims) and pedals alone would be worth it to me. And yeah - that tear on the nose looks bad - I had one I bought used like that thinking it would last - first ride I ended up sitting on the saddle frame within minutes. Good thing we have @rhm around to help us out of situations like that!
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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I have facilitated in the past and am probably doomed to do so again.
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Nice older 23" Sports, but it looks like that Brooks is about to give out.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...815697431.html
frame size: 26''
wheel size: 26 in Really cool vintage 60's 3 speed English cruiser in great condition! 26inch classic bike that's a good size for someone 5ft 5 to 6ft tall. Needs a new inner-tube for the front wheel(only a few bucks). Call show contact info
to come by. 5502 Sherman Terrace.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...815697431.html
1960's Raleigh Sport 3speed bike english - $75 (Chesterfield, VA)
bicycle type: cruiserframe size: 26''
wheel size: 26 in Really cool vintage 60's 3 speed English cruiser in great condition! 26inch classic bike that's a good size for someone 5ft 5 to 6ft tall. Needs a new inner-tube for the front wheel(only a few bucks). Call show contact info
to come by. 5502 Sherman Terrace.
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Anybody here have good results putting a square taper spindle into the OEM Raleigh/Brit 26 mm BB cups of a 1952 Rudge Aero Special? Are there combinations that do not work? I'm daydreaming of a vintage TA spindle with a Stronglight 49D or a vintage TA Cyclotourist crankset. I'd either use 48 tooth single chainring or a some kind of granny crankset, 48/32 or 48/28, perhaps. I would need to add a front derailleur, and some sort of chain tensioner in the rear.
Another opportunity might be an Avocet spindle with an Avocet crankarm set with a single or double (big with granny).
Known BB incompatibilities: 71 mm width versus 68 mm standard; 26 threads per inch original theading versus 24 threads per inch "modern" threading.
Goals:
get clean bearings into the BB,
eliminate the future hassle of non-destructive cotter extraction,
save some weight,
target 170mm crank arm,
option to provide for a granny gear with AW or FG hub.
Another opportunity might be an Avocet spindle with an Avocet crankarm set with a single or double (big with granny).
Known BB incompatibilities: 71 mm width versus 68 mm standard; 26 threads per inch original theading versus 24 threads per inch "modern" threading.
Goals:
get clean bearings into the BB,
eliminate the future hassle of non-destructive cotter extraction,
save some weight,
target 170mm crank arm,
option to provide for a granny gear with AW or FG hub.
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Anybody here have good results putting a square taper spindle into the OEM Raleigh/Brit 26 mm BB cups of a 1952 Rudge Aero Special? Are there combinations that do not work? I'm daydreaming of a vintage TA spindle with a Stronglight 49D or a vintage TA Cyclotourist crankset. I'd either use 48 tooth single chainring or a some kind of granny crankset, 48/32 or 48/28, perhaps. I would need to add a front derailleur, and some sort of chain tensioner in the rear.
Another opportunity might be an Avocet spindle with an Avocet crankarm set with a single or double (big with granny).
Known BB incompatibilities: 71 mm width versus 68 mm standard; 26 threads per inch original theading versus 24 threads per inch "modern" threading.
Goals:
get clean bearings into the BB,
eliminate the future hassle of non-destructive cotter extraction,
save some weight,
target 170mm crank arm,
option to provide for a granny gear with AW or FG hub.
Another opportunity might be an Avocet spindle with an Avocet crankarm set with a single or double (big with granny).
Known BB incompatibilities: 71 mm width versus 68 mm standard; 26 threads per inch original theading versus 24 threads per inch "modern" threading.
Goals:
get clean bearings into the BB,
eliminate the future hassle of non-destructive cotter extraction,
save some weight,
target 170mm crank arm,
option to provide for a granny gear with AW or FG hub.
The BB is going to decide the destiny of the (no longer) derelict ladies' Sports that followed me home a few days ago. It will rotate maybe an eighth of a turn or less. So the first job is get off at least the left side crank and find out what's going on in there.
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I'm sure you'll find the spindle. For my Peugeot mixte AW + cotterless conversion, I gave up and bought a cartridge BB from Velo Orange. It arrived last night and although 'spensive it's a nice piece. Light, also seems great quality, plus the man at VO threw in a couple allen-key fixing bolts at no extra charge.
The BB is going to decide the destiny of the (no longer) derelict ladies' Sports that followed me home a few days ago. It will rotate maybe an eighth of a turn or less. So the first job is get off at least the left side crank and find out what's going on in there.
The BB is going to decide the destiny of the (no longer) derelict ladies' Sports that followed me home a few days ago. It will rotate maybe an eighth of a turn or less. So the first job is get off at least the left side crank and find out what's going on in there.
Do you know the left and right stub lengths of the VO BB?
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