Warning Continental Grand Prix 5000 S TR leak
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I wanted to say that stan's generally is not considered a good sealant for road, but some people are as touchy about sealant as they are about chain lube. Glad it worked.
#27
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I was doing my spring maintenance this weekend and decided to remove and clean out the sealant from my GP5000TL tires. I discovered the sidewall weeping issue for these TL tires (vs TR as discussed by OP) when I had soaked one tire overnight in water in an effort to help loosen the dried sealant. After I had remounted the tire I pumped it up to set the bead (clean & without sealant). The picture shows all these water bubbles on the sidewall from absorbed water being forced through the sidewall. The video is me brushing some spit on the tire to confirm the air weeping. Both sides of the tire all around had this condition.
I have used these tires for 2 years with CaffeLatex sealant and never had a problem with losing air. In fact, they would usually last longer that my other bike with tubes. In the two years I topped off the sealant 3 times so I figured it was time to clean them out. Refilled each wheel with 30ml CaffeLatex and they have been holding air no problem, just like before.
So, maybe try the CaffeLatex sealant if the sealants you have tried don't work.
Maybe I have a bad set of tires, otherwise it just seems to defeat the purpose of tubeless if the tires are made with this amount of sidewall air seepage!
I have used these tires for 2 years with CaffeLatex sealant and never had a problem with losing air. In fact, they would usually last longer that my other bike with tubes. In the two years I topped off the sealant 3 times so I figured it was time to clean them out. Refilled each wheel with 30ml CaffeLatex and they have been holding air no problem, just like before.
So, maybe try the CaffeLatex sealant if the sealants you have tried don't work.
Maybe I have a bad set of tires, otherwise it just seems to defeat the purpose of tubeless if the tires are made with this amount of sidewall air seepage!
Last edited by AndrewJB; 03-28-22 at 12:54 PM.
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So there you have it.
Removed tire on the rear.
Scrubbed Rim.
Scrubbed inside of tire to remove Stans No Tubes
Reseated tire and added 35ml Orange Seal Regular.
Overnight it lost only 10 PSI.
I suspect this might improve after actually being ridden.
I have officially switched Sealants.
Barry
If you.ve reached this post and wonder what's going on. Please go read the TLDR summary I added to the original post #1
Thanks
Removed tire on the rear.
Scrubbed Rim.
Scrubbed inside of tire to remove Stans No Tubes
Reseated tire and added 35ml Orange Seal Regular.
Overnight it lost only 10 PSI.
I suspect this might improve after actually being ridden.
I have officially switched Sealants.
Barry
If you.ve reached this post and wonder what's going on. Please go read the TLDR summary I added to the original post #1
Thanks
Last edited by Barry2; 03-29-22 at 11:12 AM.
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Thanks for this thread. It's been super helpful. I've been using Conti GP 5000 TL with no issues for a long time. I have a long race coming up this weekend, I saved the Conti 5000 S TR tyres for the event, I knew they were TR and not TL, but was stunned at how much air I lost during some easy rides this week, and then overnight huge loss (like others, about 40psi). I assumed I did something wrong, and was using Stans. I happen to have just received Silca's new sealant, so going to swap to that today.
I personally think Conti should have been a lot more clear about this, given that your sealant switch has made such a big difference, so as to be the difference between functional and non-functional tyres. I'm sure someone will go on about Conti not needing to say anything, but the reality is that the bike tyre industry, and tubeless in particular, is still all over the place in terms of standards, and this product has clear and unexpected limitations that are required to be mitigated by the end user, in order to ensure the product functions in a manner that's consistent with Conti's presence in the industry.
I personally think Conti should have been a lot more clear about this, given that your sealant switch has made such a big difference, so as to be the difference between functional and non-functional tyres. I'm sure someone will go on about Conti not needing to say anything, but the reality is that the bike tyre industry, and tubeless in particular, is still all over the place in terms of standards, and this product has clear and unexpected limitations that are required to be mitigated by the end user, in order to ensure the product functions in a manner that's consistent with Conti's presence in the industry.
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JAS3000
Now that I’ve ~100 miles with Orange Seal in them, they lose a coupl-a-three psi overnight.
So about the same as the TL version.
Only thing I don’t like about these tires… I contacted both Conti and the USA importer and heardshi nothing!
Quite disappointing for such a brand.
Barry
Now that I’ve ~100 miles with Orange Seal in them, they lose a coupl-a-three psi overnight.
So about the same as the TL version.
Only thing I don’t like about these tires… I contacted both Conti and the USA importer and heard
Quite disappointing for such a brand.
Barry
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JAS3000
Now that I’ve ~100 miles with Orange Seal in them, they lose a coupl-a-three psi overnight.
So about the same as the TL version.
Only thing I don’t like about these tires… I contacted both Conti and the USA importer and heardshi nothing!
Quite disappointing for such a brand.
Barry
Now that I’ve ~100 miles with Orange Seal in them, they lose a coupl-a-three psi overnight.
So about the same as the TL version.
Only thing I don’t like about these tires… I contacted both Conti and the USA importer and heard
Quite disappointing for such a brand.
Barry
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I'm doing well with the new Silca stuff on my TRs. Not that I tried anything else.
The only problem I had was the rim tape blew out at 2AM this morning.. got woken up with this whoosh sound. Glad that didn't happen on the road, all the air was out in a few seconds. These are Roval CLX rims taped in the factory.
The only problem I had was the rim tape blew out at 2AM this morning.. got woken up with this whoosh sound. Glad that didn't happen on the road, all the air was out in a few seconds. These are Roval CLX rims taped in the factory.
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I guess tubeless tires work better when the rubber is half an inch thick. Tubes seem to be wonderful devices for containing sealant. With replaceable valve cores, effective sealants, and tubular double-sided tape instead of glue, it seems to me that running tubeless is now more of a hassle than sew-ups are, and maybe as much of a hassle as sew-ups WERE.
I'll be trying tubeless 48mm tires on my brother's bike soon. Maybe I'll love 'em. We'll see.
I'll be trying tubeless 48mm tires on my brother's bike soon. Maybe I'll love 'em. We'll see.
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I know this is an old thread, but I believe the issue with leakage is due to the tire pressure required when running narrow (25/28mm) tires on 19/21/23 mm internal width rims. Additionally, for heavy riders, an even higher pressure is required. So the higher pressure, coupled with the weight of the rider, exerts a dynamic force on the tire which results in the sealant being forced through the sidewall. In a case like this I would suggest the best test case is to move up to a single 30 or 32mm tire on the rear, set the pressure to 55-60 psi and do everything else the same (mounting, tape and sealant). I would hope you would see a reduced pressure loss. In fact, you can test this by inflating your 25mm tires to 55 psi, do not ride them for several days, the check the pressure. If no pressure loss, then you have discover the mechanism of the leakage and can resolve it as mentioned. Of course, it may be that narrow road tubeless has yet undiscovered pressure and weight limitations for different tires.
Perhaps you have already resolved the issue, I hope.
Perhaps you have already resolved the issue, I hope.
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I know this is an old thread, but I believe the issue with leakage is due to the tire pressure required when running narrow (25/28mm) tires on 19/21/23 mm internal width rims. Additionally, for heavy riders, an even higher pressure is required. So the higher pressure, coupled with the weight of the rider, exerts a dynamic force on the tire which results in the sealant being forced through the sidewall. In a case like this I would suggest the best test case is to move up to a single 30 or 32mm tire on the rear, set the pressure to 55-60 psi and do everything else the same (mounting, tape and sealant). I would hope you would see a reduced pressure loss. In fact, you can test this by inflating your 25mm tires to 55 psi, do not ride them for several days, the check the pressure. If no pressure loss, then you have discover the mechanism of the leakage and can resolve it as mentioned. Of course, it may be that narrow road tubeless has yet undiscovered pressure and weight limitations for different tires.
Perhaps you have already resolved the issue, I hope.
Perhaps you have already resolved the issue, I hope.
#36
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EasyRider59 Welcome to bike forums.
As shown in the “TLDR” (Too Long Didn’t Read) summery I added to the first post in this thread - The issue was fixed with nothing more than a change in brand of sealant.
Just as an FYI, some frown on waking old threads that are considered dead, gone, resolved.
I personally don’t mind, but thought you should know.
All the best
Barry
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I recently bought a new bike and a new set of wheels. Zipp 303 Firecrests with 25 mm internal width. They are factory sealed. With 32 mm GP5000 TR S tires at 60 psi, I lose 5 psi approx. per day. Actual width is 33.74 mm in case anyone wants that info. I am a fat ****. 6'3 ish and 215 ish
Two things.
1. Give Orange Seal REGULAR a try.
2. I’ve found that sealant loss is approx 50% over 2-3 months. This has proven true with both Stan’s & Orange and Alloy and Carbon rims.
Every 3 months, I remove sealant, top off to 40ml, and put it back. I remove the valve core and suck the sealant out. This saves me from having to break the bead.
Only takes 10min per bike.
All the best
Barry
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I’m 6’1” 190lb and run 25mm tires at 80-90psi depending on ride.
Two things.
1. Give Orange Seal REGULAR a try.
2. I’ve found that sealant loss is approx 50% over 2-3 months. This has proven true with both Stan’s & Orange and Alloy and Carbon rims.
Every 3 months, I remove sealant, top off to 40ml, and put it back. I remove the valve core and suck the sealant out. This saves me from having to break the bead.
Only takes 10min per bike.
All the best
Barry
Two things.
1. Give Orange Seal REGULAR a try.
2. I’ve found that sealant loss is approx 50% over 2-3 months. This has proven true with both Stan’s & Orange and Alloy and Carbon rims.
Every 3 months, I remove sealant, top off to 40ml, and put it back. I remove the valve core and suck the sealant out. This saves me from having to break the bead.
Only takes 10min per bike.
All the best
Barry
https://www.bikeforums.net/22451414-post16.html
How long Regular lasts depends on miles and temps.
On 6 different GP5000 TR S tires on three different wheels (four 25 mm and two 32mm, they lose air).
#39
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so, how much psi do yours lose overnight and with which sealant?
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Thanks for the interesting feedback
#41
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I got the same exact issue. Previously I was using GP 5000 TR. I had to pump them once in a while. Ideally once a week, but I could go for a few weeks loosing less than 50% of air. Yesterday I installed GP 5000 S TR and lost all air overnight from max to almost flat. The sealant does not go through, but the air does, I checked it in a basin sink. Continental web site recommends only 30ml of Continental Revo sealant. This is what I used. I am going for a ride and see if maybe it will get better when the sidewall is massaged a little while riding. I hope it will.
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Orange Regular lasted a little longer perhaps but what I found is the sealant dries out very quickly and needs replenished in weeks, not months. Or, the sidewalls got plugged up. Hard to tell. Overnight pressure drop got somewhat better in say 3-4 weeks of time
I have switched to Silca sealant putting new tires on a few weeks ago replacing the worn out ones installed in December. Silca has small graphite particles in it, hoping it helps. I seem to lose less pressure now with Silca. Good enough that I can ride 2 days in a row without checking tire pressure. The last set with Orange, I was losing 5 pis in 24 hours.
I have switched to Silca sealant putting new tires on a few weeks ago replacing the worn out ones installed in December. Silca has small graphite particles in it, hoping it helps. I seem to lose less pressure now with Silca. Good enough that I can ride 2 days in a row without checking tire pressure. The last set with Orange, I was losing 5 pis in 24 hours.
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If it is that bad it could be defective. I had a Vittoria tubeless tire that oozed sealant from the sidewalls and never sealed well. I got a return on it as defective.
BTW 30ml seems far too low I use 2x that in my S TRs
BTW 30ml seems far too low I use 2x that in my S TRs
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I have 4 different road tubeless wheelsets, all using Orange Seal. The one with GP5K TLs was the only wheelset that would lose a significant amount of air within days. I finally got around to retaping the rims and they now hold air as good as my other tires.
Never had any sidewall weeping, have both the TL and S TR tires, plus Schwalbe Pro One 1st gen and Pirelli Cinturato Velos.
Never had any sidewall weeping, have both the TL and S TR tires, plus Schwalbe Pro One 1st gen and Pirelli Cinturato Velos.