What do to with 1985 520?
#1
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What do to with 1985 520?
I've had this 520 for about 9 years. It is no longer my main ride. I want to keep it around but I'd like to modernize it a bit and improve the ride-ability. I like the sportiness of the '84 and '85 520s with a shorter wheelbase and less touring-centric build. The ride is fantastic but 35 years of wear and tear on the components has left it a little tired. One of the features I've never liked is the half-step + granny crankset. It's a fun novelty when I'm cruising at 12mph with my wife but that's about it. Besides the seat post, all items are original. I do have the original seat post but the adjustability was terrible.
The Maillard Helicomatic hubs need to be serviced. Parts are hard to find for these. My preference is to grab a newer wheel set as a start to the build rather than search for parts. I measured the rear dropout at 128mm so fitting 130mm hubs would require little effort.
Options:
1. Heretical option. Modern groupset with brifters and 10 or 11 speed. Compact handlebars. I'd probably lose C&V cred but it would retain the classic steel ride quality with modern ride-ability. Expensive though, especially for a mid-level Reynolds 501 frame.
2. Updated C&V. Retain downtube shifters but update to SIS 7-, 8- or 9-speed. Aero brakes. Practical crankset (hopefully finding a DA 7400 because aesthetics). Compact handlebars. Financially more reasonable but sourcing used or NOS components that will fit and work with other components is a pain.
3. Sell it in the COVID bike boom and find a higher-quality steel frame to build up.
4. Open to suggestions.
Excuse the camping photo. It's the clearest I have.
The Maillard Helicomatic hubs need to be serviced. Parts are hard to find for these. My preference is to grab a newer wheel set as a start to the build rather than search for parts. I measured the rear dropout at 128mm so fitting 130mm hubs would require little effort.
Options:
1. Heretical option. Modern groupset with brifters and 10 or 11 speed. Compact handlebars. I'd probably lose C&V cred but it would retain the classic steel ride quality with modern ride-ability. Expensive though, especially for a mid-level Reynolds 501 frame.
2. Updated C&V. Retain downtube shifters but update to SIS 7-, 8- or 9-speed. Aero brakes. Practical crankset (hopefully finding a DA 7400 because aesthetics). Compact handlebars. Financially more reasonable but sourcing used or NOS components that will fit and work with other components is a pain.
3. Sell it in the COVID bike boom and find a higher-quality steel frame to build up.
4. Open to suggestions.
Excuse the camping photo. It's the clearest I have.
#2
Senior Member
Question is what do you want to do with it? Do you want Brifters? Or do you like downtube shifting? If you change it, what kind of riding are you going to be doing with it?
I have a couple of 720's I dream of touring on, however I fix them up... Then my knees start acting up and I'm lucky to make it 5 miles. But those will be my touring steeds somehow someday.
My 710 I have changed to a neighborhood cruiser, 10s downtube indexed shifting, compact crank, B67 saddle and upright VO touring bars to go with my wife's Schwinn Breeze. At least until I get my '59 Schwinn Speedster. But I am enjoying it right now.
My Cannondale ST has fenders and downtube index shifting (10s) and the SR has it as well.
Point is really do what you want with it with how you want to ride it. And if you don't want to ride it anymore, then someone will love to take it from you because that is a beauty.
P.S. If you really need to get rid of the half step cranks, let me know. I have a 40 hole freewheel Phil hub set this will go good with.
I have a couple of 720's I dream of touring on, however I fix them up... Then my knees start acting up and I'm lucky to make it 5 miles. But those will be my touring steeds somehow someday.
My 710 I have changed to a neighborhood cruiser, 10s downtube indexed shifting, compact crank, B67 saddle and upright VO touring bars to go with my wife's Schwinn Breeze. At least until I get my '59 Schwinn Speedster. But I am enjoying it right now.
My Cannondale ST has fenders and downtube index shifting (10s) and the SR has it as well.
Point is really do what you want with it with how you want to ride it. And if you don't want to ride it anymore, then someone will love to take it from you because that is a beauty.
P.S. If you really need to get rid of the half step cranks, let me know. I have a 40 hole freewheel Phil hub set this will go good with.
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1984 Cannondale ST
1985 Cannondale SR300
1980 Gary Littlejohn Cruiser
1984 Trek 760
1981 Trek 710
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1984 Cannondale ST
1985 Cannondale SR300
1980 Gary Littlejohn Cruiser
1984 Trek 760
1981 Trek 710
Pics
Last edited by canopus; 06-21-20 at 01:47 PM. Reason: #$*%^@! Spellcheck BS And a PS
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I'm building up a 1979 Trek 510. I like these bikes because they're fine long distance machines.
I'd get a new wheelset, find some 7 speed shimano bar end shifters or suntour barcons if you want friction and call it a day. Finding replacement chainwheels is easy to get rid of the half step. Shimano 7 speed freewheels are easy to find and inexpensive. For new wheels, it's tough to beat the wheels from velomine:
https://www.velomine.com/index.php?m...8a9r638tal9f10
If you prefer, go with 130 mm wheelset.
Once you rebuild the bike, it will feel like a new bike.
I'd get a new wheelset, find some 7 speed shimano bar end shifters or suntour barcons if you want friction and call it a day. Finding replacement chainwheels is easy to get rid of the half step. Shimano 7 speed freewheels are easy to find and inexpensive. For new wheels, it's tough to beat the wheels from velomine:
https://www.velomine.com/index.php?m...8a9r638tal9f10
If you prefer, go with 130 mm wheelset.
Once you rebuild the bike, it will feel like a new bike.
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I'm still enjoying the novelty of half-step plus granny on my 620. But if I tire of it, I'll go compact 48/34 with 9 or ten speed index and either DT or bar end shifting. I think dual pivot brakes and spring loaded levers are essential to any updating.
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What do you want it to be? A straightforward road bike? A randonneur? A light trail bike? Upright north roads? Can't recommend much without knowing this.
I would probably do this. I'd go with an 8speed rear wheel. And set it up as a double in the front, something like 46/34 or 48/36, depending on cassette/topography/fitness. I'd go for index rear and friction front downtube shifters. Lighten up the riding with some high quality 28mm tires, or 32mm if you want more riding options. Ditch the rear rack and get a small front rack with a small trunk bag, or a medium/small saddle bag.
I would probably do this. I'd go with an 8speed rear wheel. And set it up as a double in the front, something like 46/34 or 48/36, depending on cassette/topography/fitness. I'd go for index rear and friction front downtube shifters. Lighten up the riding with some high quality 28mm tires, or 32mm if you want more riding options. Ditch the rear rack and get a small front rack with a small trunk bag, or a medium/small saddle bag.
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I'd go barend indexing shifters, aero levers, a 7 speed freewheel, a smaller middle chainring. It'll feel like a new bike. I reworked a '79 touring bike using barcons and enjoy it more than my much more modern touring bike that fits perfectly. Of course I'm an old geezer and maybe I'm just reliving my youth. I loved the half step when sporting a 5 speed freewheel but with a 7 speed I much prefer the evenly spaced chainwheels too.
#7
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First thought- if you like the bike and the way it rides- don't let the "mid-level" thing sway you. I shudder to think at how much money I threw at my Trek 400 Elance.
Second thought- That crankset is one of the very best triple cranksets ever- IMO it's a toss up between this and the Sugino AT. If you like having the granny, but not the half step- just get a 38 or so for the middle ring. If you want to do the wide range thing... you can take off the 28 and it looks like there is a 33 available for a 110 BCD. There's options- that's why the 110/74 was so dominant for so long.
Third thought- I'd get a different set of wheels, regardless. I did the 5 speed rear end to 10 speed rear end- and it was glorious. Like you said, there's no issue at all with putting a 130 in there. Now- I replaced the middle chainring- and did 10 speed- but the one issue I had is the chain sticking between the granny and the middle ring. It's happened twice in the past 4 years or so.
If'n it were me, I'd replace the middle chainring to a 38, get an Ultegra 10 speed wheel set, an Ultegra 6603 RD, (and 6600 FD* if you need to be all matchy-matchy), Dura Ace 7800 bar end shifters. I'm not entirely sure what I'd do about the bars and brake levers... the Belleri touring bars are nice, but I like them wider at the brake levers... and something makes me say you need aero levers with a 10 speed setup. I mean, you don't... but you do.
* Don't get a modern triple FD unless you're using it with matching shifters and crankset. It won't shift right.
Second thought- That crankset is one of the very best triple cranksets ever- IMO it's a toss up between this and the Sugino AT. If you like having the granny, but not the half step- just get a 38 or so for the middle ring. If you want to do the wide range thing... you can take off the 28 and it looks like there is a 33 available for a 110 BCD. There's options- that's why the 110/74 was so dominant for so long.
Third thought- I'd get a different set of wheels, regardless. I did the 5 speed rear end to 10 speed rear end- and it was glorious. Like you said, there's no issue at all with putting a 130 in there. Now- I replaced the middle chainring- and did 10 speed- but the one issue I had is the chain sticking between the granny and the middle ring. It's happened twice in the past 4 years or so.
If'n it were me, I'd replace the middle chainring to a 38, get an Ultegra 10 speed wheel set, an Ultegra 6603 RD, (and 6600 FD* if you need to be all matchy-matchy), Dura Ace 7800 bar end shifters. I'm not entirely sure what I'd do about the bars and brake levers... the Belleri touring bars are nice, but I like them wider at the brake levers... and something makes me say you need aero levers with a 10 speed setup. I mean, you don't... but you do.
* Don't get a modern triple FD unless you're using it with matching shifters and crankset. It won't shift right.
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Heretical smretical do what makes it a comfortable and fun to ride for you! Keep all the original parts of course just in case but its your bike upgrade it how you like. Almost all my vintage rides get taller stems, wider bars, and MKS Sneaker pedals because those things make the ride comfortable for me. I also tend to upgrade to tektro brake levers. not so much that I have an issue with the non aero set up as I just like how the beefier tektro grips feel in my hand -again comfort. Have fun and post pictures.
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The only thing heretical here is calling the ‘84 520 “sporty”!
The ‘84 is the first year for 45.5cm chainstays and canti brakes, the ‘84 is a ligit touring bike.
...minus a few brazes...
This is my ‘84 520 (again!) set up for New York commuter / urban assault vehicle. Fully fendered, bagged up, and ready to GIT SUM! ...groceries.
The ‘84 is the first year for 45.5cm chainstays and canti brakes, the ‘84 is a ligit touring bike.
...minus a few brazes...
This is my ‘84 520 (again!) set up for New York commuter / urban assault vehicle. Fully fendered, bagged up, and ready to GIT SUM! ...groceries.
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#10
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Trek 520 upgraded with upright handle bars and STI shifters
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#11
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Excellent. Much to think about and many things I did not initially consider. I'm glad I posed the question.
To answer the most common question, "What do I want out of this bike?" I already have a carbon endurance bike so I'm not looking for the 520 to do 100k club rides. I also don't see myself doing proper touring or bikepacking. I guess I'd like the 520 to be a bike I could take camping or on a road trip and take out for a 50k morning ride or just tool around a campground with my wife. So versatility is key.
I just returned from camping and realized I probably would have ridden more if the bike was set up with different gearing and SIS. I understand the half-step gearing for touring but making two shifts on DT shifters to move up and down the gears in logical increments gets annoying, especially having been spoiled by a 11-speed compact setup on my VR5. SIS is a luxury I guess but if I'm making changes, SIS isn't a major undertaking mechanically or financially.
To answer the most common question, "What do I want out of this bike?" I already have a carbon endurance bike so I'm not looking for the 520 to do 100k club rides. I also don't see myself doing proper touring or bikepacking. I guess I'd like the 520 to be a bike I could take camping or on a road trip and take out for a 50k morning ride or just tool around a campground with my wife. So versatility is key.
I just returned from camping and realized I probably would have ridden more if the bike was set up with different gearing and SIS. I understand the half-step gearing for touring but making two shifts on DT shifters to move up and down the gears in logical increments gets annoying, especially having been spoiled by a 11-speed compact setup on my VR5. SIS is a luxury I guess but if I'm making changes, SIS isn't a major undertaking mechanically or financially.
#12
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Thread Starter
The only thing heretical here is calling the ‘84 520 “sporty”!
The ‘84 is the first year for 45.5cm chainstays and canti brakes, the ‘84 is a ligit touring bike.
...minus a few brazes...
This is my ‘84 520 (again!) set up for New York commuter / urban assault vehicle. Fully fendered, bagged up, and ready to GIT SUM! ...groceries.
The ‘84 is the first year for 45.5cm chainstays and canti brakes, the ‘84 is a ligit touring bike.
...minus a few brazes...
This is my ‘84 520 (again!) set up for New York commuter / urban assault vehicle. Fully fendered, bagged up, and ready to GIT SUM! ...groceries.
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Honestly, this was my long term plan until I picked up my 890 a few years back. The 890 was a weirdly marketed off-road hybrid. It has been my main grocery-getter during COVID. I'd love to build it up like your 520. I'll get around to it after I get my 520 build up.
#14
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Second thought- That crankset is one of the very best triple cranksets ever- IMO it's a toss up between this and the Sugino AT. If you like having the granny, but not the half step- just get a 38 or so for the middle ring. If you want to do the wide range thing... you can take off the 28 and it looks like there is a 33 available for a 110 BCD. There's options- that's why the 110/74 was so dominant for so long.
#15
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I'm with Golden Boy. I didn't hesitate to stick 10 speed Ultegra on mid level Treks.
1987
1991
1987
1991
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#16
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I've had this 520 for about 9 years. It is no longer my main ride. I want to keep it around but I'd like to modernize it a bit and improve the ride-ability. I like the sportiness of the '84 and '85 520s with a shorter wheelbase and less touring-centric build. The ride is fantastic but 35 years of wear and tear on the components has left it a little tired. One of the features I've never liked is the half-step + granny crankset. It's a fun novelty when I'm cruising at 12mph with my wife but that's about it. Besides the seat post, all items are original. I do have the original seat post but the adjustability was terrible.
The Maillard Helicomatic hubs need to be serviced. Parts are hard to find for these. My preference is to grab a newer wheel set as a start to the build rather than search for parts. I measured the rear dropout at 128mm so fitting 130mm hubs would require little effort.
Options:
1. Heretical option. Modern groupset with brifters and 10 or 11 speed. Compact handlebars. I'd probably lose C&V cred but it would retain the classic steel ride quality with modern ride-ability. Expensive though, especially for a mid-level Reynolds 501 frame.
2. Updated C&V. Retain downtube shifters but update to SIS 7-, 8- or 9-speed. Aero brakes. Practical crankset (hopefully finding a DA 7400 because aesthetics). Compact handlebars. Financially more reasonable but sourcing used or NOS components that will fit and work with other components is a pain.
3. Sell it in the COVID bike boom and find a higher-quality steel frame to build up.
4. Open to suggestions.
Excuse the camping photo. It's the clearest I have.
The Maillard Helicomatic hubs need to be serviced. Parts are hard to find for these. My preference is to grab a newer wheel set as a start to the build rather than search for parts. I measured the rear dropout at 128mm so fitting 130mm hubs would require little effort.
Options:
1. Heretical option. Modern groupset with brifters and 10 or 11 speed. Compact handlebars. I'd probably lose C&V cred but it would retain the classic steel ride quality with modern ride-ability. Expensive though, especially for a mid-level Reynolds 501 frame.
2. Updated C&V. Retain downtube shifters but update to SIS 7-, 8- or 9-speed. Aero brakes. Practical crankset (hopefully finding a DA 7400 because aesthetics). Compact handlebars. Financially more reasonable but sourcing used or NOS components that will fit and work with other components is a pain.
3. Sell it in the COVID bike boom and find a higher-quality steel frame to build up.
4. Open to suggestions.
Excuse the camping photo. It's the clearest I have.
If that were mine, and I didn’t like 1/2 granny gearing and down tube shifters, I would go option 4) I suggest turning that 1/2+G into a compact double, then get some decent hoops with maybe 8 speeds out back. The fastback seat stays and cast lugs will look great with some more recent parts, but still harken to vintage. To shift it, I’d find some bar end shifters. You can find indexed 7 and 8, I don’t know about more than that, as that’s leaving the bicycle time period I concentrate on.
But newer lighter wheels, compact double, and bar ends, will keep this on mission of fast and versatile updated bike, that keeps true to its vintage roots. Keep the non-aero brake levers, but throw some duel pivot trek-tro’s on there and you’ll vastly improve the brake response.
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#17
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Hi Chr0m0ly,
I’ve a 84 520 and two Strichtarn NVA Sturmgepäck combat pack as well but on the rear rack! Have your packs lost their storage smell? Mine still act as a theft deterrent.
tacreamer
I’ve a 84 520 and two Strichtarn NVA Sturmgepäck combat pack as well but on the rear rack! Have your packs lost their storage smell? Mine still act as a theft deterrent.
tacreamer
The only thing heretical here is calling the ‘84 520 “sporty”!
The ‘84 is the first year for 45.5cm chainstays and canti brakes, the ‘84 is a ligit touring bike.
...minus a few brazes...
This is my ‘84 520 (again!) set up for New York commuter / urban assault vehicle. Fully fendered, bagged up, and ready to GIT SUM! ...groceries.
The ‘84 is the first year for 45.5cm chainstays and canti brakes, the ‘84 is a ligit touring bike.
...minus a few brazes...
This is my ‘84 520 (again!) set up for New York commuter / urban assault vehicle. Fully fendered, bagged up, and ready to GIT SUM! ...groceries.
#18
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The best thing I’ve found to get rid of old gear smells, is Hex Detergent, for washing poly and nylon sports clothing. It was made to get the smell out of hockey gear that was worn a few practices and stored in a locker for too long without washing.
I got a spray bottle, out in a cap full, the amount you’d put in a load of laundry, and spray it in and let dry.
I’ve tried spraying Vodka, an old costumers trick, vinegar, another solid deodorizer, I bought odor capture kitty litter, and filled the pack with that and let it sit for a few days, I put it in the sun, I froze it in the freezer... The Hex detergent succeeded where others failed. It took two or three applications, and I didn’t rinse it out. Spray, let dry, do it again. A third time if it still stinks. It got noticeably better with each application, and I use that backpack still. 👍
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#19
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Thread Starter
My direction for the 520 became a little more clear. I found a set of Vuelta Corsa Lite with the subdued outline decals on local Craigslist for a very fair price. I wanted to stick those wheels on my 1988 1200 several years ago (until I read about dropout spacing and realized it was a non-starter on an aluminum frame).
#20
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Just saw this. Order of business #1 would be to ditch the Helicomatic hub. Looks like you're on the right path with your new wheelset. Spend a little bit of time playing around with gearing at Sheldon Brown's gear calculator. See what you can set up with various triple gearing options and cassettes that could go on your new wheels. No reason why you can't cover a broad range of gearing with few (if any) dupes, and without huge gaps with some careful consideration.
I've heard shifters are a challenge to obtain presently, but I've found 9 speed cassettes and rear derailleurs to be a bit of a sweet spot for reasonable pricing, availability and gearing options. They can work with either brifters of bar-cons, or downtube shift levers. I gravitate to bar ends, but people tend to either love them or hate them.
If feel compelled to upgrade braking, Tektros are a great line and a good value and aren't in-your-face modern looking.
I've heard shifters are a challenge to obtain presently, but I've found 9 speed cassettes and rear derailleurs to be a bit of a sweet spot for reasonable pricing, availability and gearing options. They can work with either brifters of bar-cons, or downtube shift levers. I gravitate to bar ends, but people tend to either love them or hate them.
If feel compelled to upgrade braking, Tektros are a great line and a good value and aren't in-your-face modern looking.
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