Lynskey Urbansky Build Finished. Needed a hacksaw more than expected...
08-19-17, 07:49 PM
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Lynskey Urbansky Build Finished. Needed a hacksaw more than expected...
Finally finished Lynskey Urbansky with Shimano Disc Brakes, ProGravel Carbon Fork (wouldn't do it again), A530 dual platform pedals, tubeless tires and Topeak Supertourist DX bike rack.
08-19-17, 07:53 PM
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I ran into a few unexpected problems. My really nice thru axel couldn't easily be turned once the bike rack was placed. I couldn't really tighten it at all. I didn't see this happening until after bike rack installed and I realized thru axle a bit loose. So out came the hack saw and I had to cut the handle shorter...you can see how it'd hit the bike rack if the handle left full length...
08-19-17, 08:01 PM
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Because of the way the rear SKS fender is mounted to the seat stay and not the axel, one piece of 1/8 stainless to hold the fender was too long and one was too short. Making the longer one short was easy (hacksaw, again), but lengthening the other was not obvious. I eventually settled on taking the piece of 1/8th inch stainless that I had cut off and gluing it to the short one using an aluminum spacer and JB Weld for the bond. It came out nice (I think)..
08-19-17, 08:21 PM
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I was pleasantly surprised that the rack seemed to fit perfectly. The frame design, I noticed at the end, is a little screwy (no pun intended). The bolts to hold the rack on have to be screwed in from the inside out. But there is so little room, an allen key wouldn't fit-it's that tight. Even a hex bit (that I could turn with a wrench) wouldn't fit. By this time I had a lot of hacksaw experience !!! Cutting the allen key was a piece of cake !!!
In the pics you can see that my finger can barely fit between the heads of the bolts. I had to cut the allen key such that the bottom of the "L" was about 1 cm...
In the pics you can see that my finger can barely fit between the heads of the bolts. I had to cut the allen key such that the bottom of the "L" was about 1 cm...
08-20-17, 06:27 AM
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Nice job fitting the rack and fenders the way that you did. I assume you used the disc version of the rack. That rack really fits quite well considering how high up the mounting points are. I have never used a through axle, so I had no idea that it could be a problem with your rack.
On one of my bikes where the top rack bolts mount the same way that they do on the seatstays on yours, I used hex head bolts and a 8mm open end or 8mm box end wrench to install the bolts.
Not much color on a Ti bike, using red for handlebar tape and a few other things looks nice. On my Lynskey the only color was the red head badge and taillight reflectors. Instead of the black end caps on the fender stays (one of which I lost on my first ride), I put red ones on to add some color. I got them from this link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ilpage_o02_s00
Shipped from Asia, it takes weeks to arrive.
On one of my bikes where the top rack bolts mount the same way that they do on the seatstays on yours, I used hex head bolts and a 8mm open end or 8mm box end wrench to install the bolts.
Not much color on a Ti bike, using red for handlebar tape and a few other things looks nice. On my Lynskey the only color was the red head badge and taillight reflectors. Instead of the black end caps on the fender stays (one of which I lost on my first ride), I put red ones on to add some color. I got them from this link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ilpage_o02_s00
Shipped from Asia, it takes weeks to arrive.
08-20-17, 06:52 AM
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50-34 compact crank in front. 11-32 11-speed cassette in the rear.
I didn't realize some of the problems with 11 speed hubs until after I bought the parts. The master links are special and one-time use only, much tighter tolerances etc. A bad choice for touring in remote areas.
08-20-17, 06:58 AM
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Nice job fitting the rack and fenders the way that you did. I assume you used the disc version of the rack. That rack really fits quite well considering how high up the mounting points are. I have never used a through axle, so I had no idea that it could be a problem with your rack.
On one of my bikes where the top rack bolts mount the same way that they do on the seatstays on yours, I used hex head bolts and a 8mm open end or 8mm box end wrench to install the bolts.
Not much color on a Ti bike, using red for handlebar tape and a few other things looks nice. On my Lynskey the only color was the red head badge and taillight reflectors. Instead of the black end caps on the fender stays (one of which I lost on my first ride), I put red ones on to add some color. I got them from this link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ilpage_o02_s00
Shipped from Asia, it takes weeks to arrive.
On one of my bikes where the top rack bolts mount the same way that they do on the seatstays on yours, I used hex head bolts and a 8mm open end or 8mm box end wrench to install the bolts.
Not much color on a Ti bike, using red for handlebar tape and a few other things looks nice. On my Lynskey the only color was the red head badge and taillight reflectors. Instead of the black end caps on the fender stays (one of which I lost on my first ride), I put red ones on to add some color. I got them from this link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ilpage_o02_s00
Shipped from Asia, it takes weeks to arrive.
I bought these for handle bar ends that light up. Pretty cool for night riding !
1 Pair Cycling Bicycle Bike Handlebar Bar End Red LED Plug Light Safety Lamp
08-20-17, 07:03 AM
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Nice job fitting the rack and fenders the way that you did. I assume you used the disc version of the rack. That rack really fits quite well considering how high up the mounting points are. I have never used a through axle, so I had no idea that it could be a problem with your rack.
On one of my bikes where the top rack bolts mount the same way that they do on the seatstays on yours, I used hex head bolts and a 8mm open end or 8mm box end wrench to install the bolts.
Not much color on a Ti bike, using red for handlebar tape and a few other things looks nice. On my Lynskey the only color was the red head badge and taillight reflectors. Instead of the black end caps on the fender stays (one of which I lost on my first ride), I put red ones on to add some color. I got them from this link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ilpage_o02_s00
Shipped from Asia, it takes weeks to arrive.
On one of my bikes where the top rack bolts mount the same way that they do on the seatstays on yours, I used hex head bolts and a 8mm open end or 8mm box end wrench to install the bolts.
Not much color on a Ti bike, using red for handlebar tape and a few other things looks nice. On my Lynskey the only color was the red head badge and taillight reflectors. Instead of the black end caps on the fender stays (one of which I lost on my first ride), I put red ones on to add some color. I got them from this link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ilpage_o02_s00
Shipped from Asia, it takes weeks to arrive.
08-20-17, 07:12 AM
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The one I lost on my first ride was on the front fender, I have some toe overlap and knocked it off with my foot. They don't fall off that easy, but over the years I lost several on other bikes too. I took the black ones off and put red ones on another bike besides the Lynskey. And since I got 100 of them, I have given quite a few away to friends that thought they looked cool.
08-20-17, 07:32 AM
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Rack mount
You likely could have attached the rack stays to the outside of the seatstay mount points. The threaded hole goes all the way through the mount? Stays are designed to be bent slightly to fit, too.
Chains
I re-use my Sram powerlink 11-speed links. The package says one-time only.
I made a copy of a removal tool using an old spoke, see this post. It still needs pliers to squeeze it.
My small Park Tool CT-5 chain tool doesn't really have enough leverage to push out an 11-speed pin. I have to hold the handle with pliers.
Stays
I liked your fender extension using a sleeve.
You likely could have attached the rack stays to the outside of the seatstay mount points. The threaded hole goes all the way through the mount? Stays are designed to be bent slightly to fit, too.
Chains
I re-use my Sram powerlink 11-speed links. The package says one-time only.
I made a copy of a removal tool using an old spoke, see this post. It still needs pliers to squeeze it.
My small Park Tool CT-5 chain tool doesn't really have enough leverage to push out an 11-speed pin. I have to hold the handle with pliers.
Stays
I liked your fender extension using a sleeve.
Last edited by rm -rf; 08-20-17 at 10:57 AM.
08-20-17, 08:49 AM
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...
I made a copy of a removal tool using an old spoke, see this post. It still needs pliers to squeeze it.
....
I made a copy of a removal tool using an old spoke, see this post. It still needs pliers to squeeze it.
....
08-20-17, 09:03 AM
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thanks for posting that. I did not see it when you originally posted it since it was posted in an 11 speed thread that i did not open, my bikes (other than the 3 speed) all use 8 speed chains. I am going to have to dig out an old spoke and make one for travel use.
08-20-17, 09:07 AM
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08-20-17, 11:13 AM
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I mounted the rack above the fender on the seatstay on my Urbanskey. No interference that way, and you probably would have had clearance for the thruaxle lever. Was there a reason for using the lower mounting point for the rack?
08-21-17, 04:13 AM
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08-21-17, 04:20 AM
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I think that the weight savings not worth the headache for a touring bike. There are two nuts embedded in the carbon into which the disc brakes are bolted. One of these nuts was not properly threaded--I could not screw the bolt in. I should have returned fork to Lynskey but was almost done with build at this point. So I tapped the hold. It turned out there were just some shards of metal in there that don't belong. But it makes you realize how delicate the whole carbon thing is.
You need carbon paste on fork to minimize torque when you tighten stem onto it, can't use a star nut, don't want to clamp anything to it, just much less forgiving. When you saw it, have to be careful of dust (I cut off a little piece with standard 32 tpi hacksaw and did final cut with carbon blade--the whole carbon blade thing is a hoax--totally unnecessary).
You have to be more careful when placing crown race...
Just a lot of stuff that makes me wonder about long term durability....
You need carbon paste on fork to minimize torque when you tighten stem onto it, can't use a star nut, don't want to clamp anything to it, just much less forgiving. When you saw it, have to be careful of dust (I cut off a little piece with standard 32 tpi hacksaw and did final cut with carbon blade--the whole carbon blade thing is a hoax--totally unnecessary).
You have to be more careful when placing crown race...
Just a lot of stuff that makes me wonder about long term durability....
08-21-17, 04:23 AM
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I don't understand why the thru axle caused interference. I have the Cooper CX and the DTSwiss lever can be set at any angle - is there a reason yours needed to align with the seatstay?
08-21-17, 05:50 AM
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That's a sweet bike, @joegoersch !!
How does it ride? Using Sheldon Brown's calculator, it looks like you have 28.9 gear inches for a low. You may wish to swap out some stuff unless there's no hills where you tour.
How does it ride? Using Sheldon Brown's calculator, it looks like you have 28.9 gear inches for a low. You may wish to swap out some stuff unless there's no hills where you tour.
08-21-17, 10:39 AM
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08-21-17, 11:15 AM
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That's a sweet bike, @joegoersch !!
How does it ride? Using Sheldon Brown's calculator, it looks like you have 28.9 gear inches for a low. You may wish to swap out some stuff unless there's no hills where you tour.
How does it ride? Using Sheldon Brown's calculator, it looks like you have 28.9 gear inches for a low. You may wish to swap out some stuff unless there's no hills where you tour.
It rides great so far! I have been riding, I think, with tires too highy inflated.
Stans formula is
Rider weight in pounds divided by 7 = x
x-1 = Front tire pressure in PSI
x+2 = Rear tire pressure in PSI Lightly loaded
So without much gear I should be at (147/7=21) 20psi in front and 23 psi in the rear. Coming from a bike which I used to ride at 100, 110 psi I wasn't quite ready to go that low right away. I was riding at about 45 psi. But today will let air out and try the lower pressures.
I like to ride with my kids and wife who are all highly allergic to big hills. If I'm going on a loaded tour, it'll be with them; the tour will be designed to be not too hilly.
Next week taking them too Finger Lakes will try Catherine Valley Trail
https://www.traillink.com/trail/catharine-valley-trail/
and some other rides around the lake. If all goes well, we want to then try
P'tit Train du Nord
P?tit Train du Nord Planning Your Trip Lodging and Camping Readers? Suggestions
neither of which is terribly hilly...
08-21-17, 03:37 PM
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Also I wanted the rack further back (less chance of heel strike which, as I understand, can be a problem with the Lynskey) and lower center of gravity. Seemed like a pretty minor inconvenience to obtain those goals. But only a half inch or so either way...
