Light Bicycle Wheels
#926
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How many of you who have the LB wheels went with vs without rim spoke holes? ie. without holes seems almost a no-brainer.. no tape of any kind needed (whether you run tubed or tubeless)?
#927
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Wasn't an option back when I ordered mine, but I would def go without holes on the next set, and I run tubes. Just easier, and then I'm set if I ever want to run tubeless.
#929
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I wouldn’t be so sure about not needing tape. Some tires are a bit loose so you’ll need to add a couple layers anyway. Plus, as other people have said, it would be a MASSIVE pita to have to replace a spoke or rebuild the wheel. I vote no.
#930
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I have internal nipples on the wheels I bought recently, so same issue. It would have been a deal breaker if they hadn't been half price, didn't have a sterling reputation for strength, and if I weren't a bantamweight. Fingers crossed.
#932
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Not really massive PITA.....just need a magnet and a thread-matched magnetic screw to go in the nipple.
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#934
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Besides, I'd likely have an LBS do a repair anyway.
FYI.. I thought tape wouldn't be required as I think that's mentioned on LB's site in the popup (?) box on that option. And, assumed since pretty much any of the campy or Fulcrum 2-way wheelset beds don't have nipple holes and don't have tape. My old set of Eurus doesn't have tape (but it's alloy) and don't have any tape.
#935
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#936
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And if anyone owns these, can it be confirmed no issue running tubeless without tape?
#938
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FYI.. I thought tape wouldn't be required as I think that's mentioned on LB's site in the popup (?) box on that option. And, assumed since pretty much any of the campy or Fulcrum 2-way wheelset beds don't have nipple holes and don't have tape. My old set of Eurus doesn't have tape (but it's alloy) and don't have any tape.
#939
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Prior to my LB wheels I had a set of Yoeleo’s. They had the internal nipples with sealed rim bed. Never had a problem with them but it was strange how one was finished and clear coated/sanded and one was less so. Turned me off a bit but to be fair I run tubeless so I didn’t have any worries of tube rubbing against a rough surface or anything, just me being weird I think. At any rate, I wouldn’t think twice of using that option on my next set of wheels if it was available, like the others mention it wasn’t an option when I bought my LB’s. I don’t mind wrapping tape for tubeless but the odd time where I noticed I was losing air in my tubeless faster than usual was due to the tape giving up to the pressure at spoke hole
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2) You might/will be able to get the tire to seat and hold air with no tape, but it probably won’t pass the “pinch test”. I pinch my tire at a somewhat low psi to make sure the seal is with the bead seat and not the rim sidewall. If the tire hisses (with no sealant) when you pinch it, you have a decent chance of burping air when cornering. Not good. Best case, your sealant will be working way harder than it should.
I’m not entirely certain why the TL tape is so unpleasant. IME, it is the least problematic part of the whole TL dumpster fire as long as you get something good like DT Swiss. Also it should be wide - 27mm for my 23mm internal rims.
That being said, no holes does allow you to use non-TL tape, like gorilla tape. That can be cheaper and thicker.
Last edited by smashndash; 04-24-20 at 12:36 AM.
#941
Junior Member
Uouh.. This has been a great answer.. thank you so much!! So I think I have clear now that I will go with the WR45 wheelset. With my Grail with disk brakes I have enough clearance. I will start using 28mm tire the GP5K tires with clinchers. Then I will have the opportunity to change to 32mm in the future to see how do they feel.
Then, apart from the wheels, I need to get the other stuff.
For the hubs, I have received always more or less the same recommendation to get the Swiss 350.
Axles, is LB supplying QR axles?
For the cassete I am thinking about getting a 11-28. Any recommendation?
For the rest of things... I am lost.. (Front and Rear Holes... Ratchet...) Any advise on this?
Thank you in advance!
Then, apart from the wheels, I need to get the other stuff.
For the hubs, I have received always more or less the same recommendation to get the Swiss 350.
Axles, is LB supplying QR axles?
For the cassete I am thinking about getting a 11-28. Any recommendation?
For the rest of things... I am lost.. (Front and Rear Holes... Ratchet...) Any advise on this?
Thank you in advance!
I have some doubts but in general:
- Wheels: LB WR45
- Tire: 28mm Continental GP5K
- Hub: I will get the DT Swiss 350
- Cassete: I have doubts between Shimano Ultegra CS-6700 10s (11-28) and Sram PG-1070 10s (11-28). --> Any recommendation?
- I have clear that I will need the free hub body for the cassete.
- What about the Front and Rear Holes? What is this about?
- Ratchet: I will get the 54T.
What do you think about this set up? Any further advise?
Thanks a lot!
#942
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After much hand wringing, I ordered the R45's with 350 hubs, 36 star ratchet. Looking forward to getting these out in the wild.
Thanks to everyone for enabling this purchase.
Thanks to everyone for enabling this purchase.
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#943
Senior Member
So I am about to order my WR45 wheels to be mounted in 28mm tire and maybe later 32mm tire. I have no clearance issue with my gravel bike, then it will fit well.
I have some doubts but in general:
- Wheels: LB WR45
- Tire: 28mm Continental GP5K
- Hub: I will get the DT Swiss 350
- Cassete: I have doubts between Shimano Ultegra CS-6700 10s (11-28) and Sram PG-1070 10s (11-28). --> Any recommendation?
- I have clear that I will need the free hub body for the cassete.
- What about the Front and Rear Holes? What is this about?
- Ratchet: I will get the 54T.
What do you think about this set up? Any further advise?
Thanks a lot!
I have some doubts but in general:
- Wheels: LB WR45
- Tire: 28mm Continental GP5K
- Hub: I will get the DT Swiss 350
- Cassete: I have doubts between Shimano Ultegra CS-6700 10s (11-28) and Sram PG-1070 10s (11-28). --> Any recommendation?
- I have clear that I will need the free hub body for the cassete.
- What about the Front and Rear Holes? What is this about?
- Ratchet: I will get the 54T.
What do you think about this set up? Any further advise?
Thanks a lot!
#944
Junior Member
The choices all look reasonable. The front and rear holes is how many spokes you'll have. Not all hubs will have all spoke-hole options, but the options available will appear when you select the hub. You'll have to decide how many front spokes and how many rear spokes, which will depend a lot on how much you weigh. I'm heavy, if you're not then my opinion won't mean much. As far as the cassettes go, my drive train is Shimano so I use Shimano parts. Cuts down on the thinking. :-) I have no idea if you'd have different spacing requirements if you tried to mix Sram cassettes with Shimano drivetrain, but you could Google that up and get your answer.
So some further doubts...
- Spoke: Sapim CX Ray
- Nipple: Brass Black
- Bead Type: Hook (I think that for road use this is the best option, am I right?)
- Finish: I have to think about this...
- Center Channel Hole: Holes? Without Holes? Here I need some help...
- Valve Stem? Why would I need this?
I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel....
#945
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I am 82 Kg. more or less so I think I will get the option of 24 holes. I was selecting the options of the wheel on the website and I was surprised by the remaining options I had to choose.. haha...
So some further doubts...
- Spoke: Sapim CX Ray
- Nipple: Brass Black
- Bead Type: Hook (I think that for road use this is the best option, am I right?)
- Finish: I have to think about this...
- Center Channel Hole: Holes? Without Holes? Here I need some help...
- Valve Stem? Why would I need this?
I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel....
So some further doubts...
- Spoke: Sapim CX Ray
- Nipple: Brass Black
- Bead Type: Hook (I think that for road use this is the best option, am I right?)
- Finish: I have to think about this...
- Center Channel Hole: Holes? Without Holes? Here I need some help...
- Valve Stem? Why would I need this?
I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel....
Sapim spokes
brass nipples (ease of adjust later)
hook is a must for road pressure
no holes
no value stems, running tubes
Hope this helps with the hand wringing, as enabler I'm here to help.
#946
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The point of the tape would be to ensure a not-too-loose fit of the tire bead under the hook. It wouldn't be needed to seal the spoke holes because there wouldn't be any, but if the tire bead under the hook were a loose fit the tape might be a good idea. I have no idea whether it would be needed or not, but if it were, that's the reason.
Issue. 1) I think the bead retention ridge is WAY too strong if you don’t use tape. It literally takes like 60-80 lbs of force to get the tire off - harder than you think. WAY easier with a wall-wall layer of tape. I had to use a space heater to get the tire off without tape.
2) You might/will be able to get the tire to seat and hold air with no tape, but it probably won’t pass the “pinch test”. I pinch my tire at a somewhat low psi to make sure the seal is with the bead seat and not the rim sidewall. If the tire hisses (with no sealant) when you pinch it, you have a decent chance of burping air when cornering. Not good. Best case, your sealant will be working way harder than it should.
2) You might/will be able to get the tire to seat and hold air with no tape, but it probably won’t pass the “pinch test”. I pinch my tire at a somewhat low psi to make sure the seal is with the bead seat and not the rim sidewall. If the tire hisses (with no sealant) when you pinch it, you have a decent chance of burping air when cornering. Not good. Best case, your sealant will be working way harder than it should.
Of course using tape of some sort wouldn't be a deal breaker by any means if opting to run TL, but it's not as elegant and simple and seemingly defeats the purpose of selecting this option in the first place (screenshot below). Somewhere in this thread (unless this has changed?) I read that you should NOT have LB install the tape (as they've used non-optimal width or brand?). Finally, would sealant cleanup or removal be any easier without tape?
I am 82 Kg. more or less so I think I will get the option of 24 holes. I was selecting the options of the wheel on the website and I was surprised by the remaining options I had to choose.. haha...
So some further doubts...
- Center Channel Hole: Holes? Without Holes? Here I need some help...
- Valve Stem? Why would I need this?
I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel....
So some further doubts...
- Center Channel Hole: Holes? Without Holes? Here I need some help...
- Valve Stem? Why would I need this?
I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel....
Regarding center channel holes, see the ongoing discussion in the preceding dozen or so posts previous to this one. Currently, we're at a point where we haven't 100% determined there's a benefit to "without holes" at all if running tubeless; but probably a benefit if running tubes. All in all, going without holes has little downside and maybe more upside.
#947
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I'm not understanding the need for tape to get tires to mount properly. I've only ever used tape in the center channel to cover the spoke holes, I've never run it edge to edge under the hooks, and I've never had issues mounting GP4K/GP5K tires (haven't used any other tires). This is on multiple wheelsets, different brands, not just LB. But I also only run tubes, haven't set any of my wheels up tubeless, I just use the tape to prevent the spoke holes from interfering with the tubes, especially now that I'm using latex.
#948
Junior Member
Thanks! I think my choice will be like yours. I am thinking about this finish, maybe just black without logos
#949
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I'm trying to understand the issues outlined here as they sound contradictory. I'm reading in a couple places that tape is likely necessary to ensure a not loose/tighter fit to ensure a seal, yet at the same time, not using tape makes the tire even harder to mount remove? (edit) #SmashnDash , are you referring to experience running TL with a specific no-holes LB wheelset ? Any ideas if these issues go away if using tubes and a standard clincher tire (not TLRs) and in that case tape would be pointless?
Of course using tape of some sort wouldn't be a deal breaker by any means if opting to run TL, but it's not as elegant and simple and seemingly defeats the purpose of selecting this option in the first place (screenshot below). Somewhere in this thread (unless this has changed?) I read that you should NOT have LB install the tape (as they've used non-optimal width or brand?). Finally, would sealant cleanup or removal be any easier without tape?
You'd need a valve stem installed if you're planning to run wheels setup for Tubeless.
Regarding center channel holes, see the ongoing discussion in the preceding dozen or so posts previous to this one. Currently, we're at a point where we haven't 100% determined there's a benefit to "without holes" at all if running tubeless; but probably a benefit if running tubes. All in all, going without holes has little downside and maybe more upside.
Of course using tape of some sort wouldn't be a deal breaker by any means if opting to run TL, but it's not as elegant and simple and seemingly defeats the purpose of selecting this option in the first place (screenshot below). Somewhere in this thread (unless this has changed?) I read that you should NOT have LB install the tape (as they've used non-optimal width or brand?). Finally, would sealant cleanup or removal be any easier without tape?
You'd need a valve stem installed if you're planning to run wheels setup for Tubeless.
Regarding center channel holes, see the ongoing discussion in the preceding dozen or so posts previous to this one. Currently, we're at a point where we haven't 100% determined there's a benefit to "without holes" at all if running tubeless; but probably a benefit if running tubes. All in all, going without holes has little downside and maybe more upside.
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