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Disc brakes for road bikes... not ready for prime time?

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Disc brakes for road bikes... not ready for prime time?

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Old 02-16-12, 10:12 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
I hope this is an attempt at Cinzano humor. Otherwise flipping ass over head, destroying your wheel and possibly fork, seems to be a less desireable option than laying the bike down.
OK, let's tell them the secret...

If you experience total brake failure on a bike, it is possible to stop by putting a foot behind the fork crown. Kind of Flintstone style.

Dragging cycling shoes on the ground will have little effect, but carefully jamming your foot behind the fork will slow you down. Better option than jumping or aiming for something soft.
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Old 02-17-12, 08:49 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
Any sport involving racing wheeled vehicles better stopping power equals going faster.
yeah, but there's a point of diminishing returns if you factor in weight. A good set of properly setup cantis provide plenty of stopping power. I don't think it really matters in a 45 minute race.
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Old 02-17-12, 09:01 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by DinoShepherd
OK, let's tell them the secret...

If you experience total brake failure on a bike, it is possible to stop by putting a foot behind the fork crown. Kind of Flintstone style.

Dragging cycling shoes on the ground will have little effect, but carefully jamming your foot behind the fork will slow you down. Better option than jumping or aiming for something soft.
Jamming your hand between the rear wheel and the seat tube also works. However, it doesn't do much for your hand.
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Old 02-17-12, 09:25 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by mihlbach
While I don't personally feel like discs on my weenie carbon bike are all that necessary (not a lot of massive descents on Long Island), its worth noting that the potential applications of good road disc brakes extend beyond well beyond weenie race bikes. I really wish I had discs on my long haul trucker, for instance, and they would be nice on my winter/beater/commuter road bike that gets exposed to a lot of slop.
I converted my Kona Jake The Snake to front disc. Should be a similarly easy conversion for your LHT and commuter/beater, requiring new front fork and a set of brakes. I went with Avid BB7s. Then of course a disc hub for the front, but I built my wheels for the JTS with a disc hub long before, in anticipation of the upgrade.

One concern could be the difference in power/modulation between front and rear brakes...I can tell you this has not been an issue for me. We as cyclists are already accustomed to there being a difference in the way front and rear brakes perform; having disc in the front makes that gap a little bigger but really it was barely noticeable. Plus I have been told it is almost impossible to lock up a front disc and do an endo.

You ought to go for the upgrade...you'll love it. My JTS stops on a freaking dime now, BTW. I scare people now because I roll up to stops at nearly full speed and stop so quickly.
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Old 02-17-12, 10:46 AM
  #55  
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So what I gather from this article and reading his previous article on the purpose of this bike is that I will have one less person to race against at Southern Cross because this guy was an idiot and put stupid rotors on his bike and then complains about failure.

Ridiculously light rotors with a mountain type descent. Great planning there sparky.


Originally Posted by cyclocommuter
Interesting article at Bike Rumour: Road Bike Disc Brakes Are Coming, But Will They Work?

Author was on a disc brake equipped bike and got into a massive wreck thanks to disc brake failure.

Last edited by Rutnick; 02-17-12 at 10:49 AM.
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Old 02-17-12, 10:57 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by rdubbz
yeah, but there's a point of diminishing returns if you factor in weight. A good set of properly setup cantis provide plenty of stopping power. I don't think it really matters in a 45 minute race.
I'm not sure what the weight difference is, but stopping power isn't the main issue. All weather performance, no rim wear, and better modulation are the big advantages. They may not be for everyone, but if you like the feel of discs, sometimes ride in rain and want improved durability on rims they are great. If lightest possible weight is more important to you than those things, then you might not care about discs. I dont see discs being the only option on road bikes any time soon, but I can imagine most manufacturers offering disc and tradition brake versions for a lot of road bikes.
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Old 02-17-12, 11:29 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by pallen
I'm not sure what the weight difference is, but stopping power isn't the main issue. All weather performance, no rim wear, and better modulation are the big advantages. They may not be for everyone, but if you like the feel of discs, sometimes ride in rain and want improved durability on rims they are great. If lightest possible weight is more important to you than those things, then you might not care about discs. I dont see discs being the only option on road bikes any time soon, but I can imagine most manufacturers offering disc and tradition brake versions for a lot of road bikes.
read my original post. i was referring to racing cross and pointed out that with discs you could at least finish a race with a broken spoke and your rims would last considerably longer. But in all likelihood you would benefit less lugging a heavier bike up hills over your shoulder in a relatively short race. I raced a season with discs, I'm going back to cantis.
Now on my commuter and mountain bike, discs are a necessity.
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Old 02-17-12, 01:32 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by rdubbz
read my original post. i was referring to racing cross and pointed out that with discs you could at least finish a race with a broken spoke and your rims would last considerably longer. But in all likelihood you would benefit less lugging a heavier bike up hills over your shoulder in a relatively short race. I raced a season with discs, I'm going back to cantis.
Now on my commuter and mountain bike, discs are a necessity.
This guy gets it.
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Old 02-17-12, 02:00 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by DinoShepherd

If you experience total brake failure on a bike, it is possible to stop by putting a foot behind the fork crown. Kind of Flintstone style.
It should be obvious that this will send you over your bars. Putting your foot on the rear tire just behind the brake caliper works much better.
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Old 02-17-12, 03:03 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by rdubbz
read my original post. i was referring to racing cross and pointed out that with discs you could at least finish a race with a broken spoke and your rims would last considerably longer. But in all likelihood you would benefit less lugging a heavier bike up hills over your shoulder in a relatively short race. I raced a season with discs, I'm going back to cantis.
Now on my commuter and mountain bike, discs are a necessity.
Yeah, I can see that - I didn't connect your last post with your first. I would imagine in that case seeing rider preferences on both sides in that scenario. So, you're saying from the standpoint of lifting the bike and carrying it, the weight difference was fairly significant?
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Old 02-17-12, 03:11 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Rutnick
Ridiculously light rotors with a mountain type descent. Great planning there sparky.
This.

Also it should be noted that even with rim brakes, poor descent technique and riding the brakes can still lead to brake failure. I recall some video posted where some dude melts his pads on a descent and has to bail in some rocks on the side of the road (thankfully, not catastrophically).
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Old 02-17-12, 03:36 PM
  #62  
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Saw that vid too. His riding partners were on Motobecanes-- sadly, that stuck in my memory.
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Old 02-17-12, 05:13 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by rooftest
It should be obvious that this will send you over your bars. Putting your foot on the rear tire just behind the brake caliper works much better.

It will not send you over the bars.

I am sure that you are aware of the relative stopping power available front and rear. (or maybe not)

Trying to stop on a steep descent with only rear stopping is not going to happen.
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Old 02-17-12, 06:21 PM
  #64  
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call me crazy but I would have used factory rotors and probably would have even tried 7" rotor front and 6" rear knowing what type of descending would be required.

I used to run 8" front and 7" rear on the MTB until I started racing it again. At least the 6" rotors are still brand specific. Why try to lighten up a rotor where life depends on it working properly?

Was he also using 3 titanium bolts per rotor?




Originally Posted by krazygl00
This.

Also it should be noted that even with rim brakes, poor descent technique and riding the brakes can still lead to brake failure. I recall some video posted where some dude melts his pads on a descent and has to bail in some rocks on the side of the road (thankfully, not catastrophically).
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Old 02-17-12, 07:05 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by DinoShepherd

It will not send you over the bars.
.
Go do it. Take pictures. Post.
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