Touring on titanium frame?
#1
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Touring on titanium frame?
Hi, I'm thinking about getting a Lynskey Cooper CX or their "road" version of the same frame, called the Urbano, to use as a touring bike. (Would be for commuting and general riding, too, but I know it would be great for those things.) Not planning to carry heavy loads, about 15-20 pounds maximum. For short tours, up to a week, staying in motels. Has anyone toured on a Lynskey or other titanium frame? What has your experience been as far as load handling, stability, flex etc.? I have read some reviews by folks who tried and didn't like the Lynskey Viale. They said the chainstays were too short (caused interference with rear panniers). But I have found nothing about how the Lynskey frames (or other Ti frames) actually handle while loaded. My concern is that titanium frames, even fairly stiff ones, may not be suitable for even light to moderate touring. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.
#2
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Titanium frame characteristics vary greatly just as aluminum or steel frames can vary greatly depending on how they were designed. You can make it stiff or supple depending on the desired use. I've been touring on a ti frame for about 3 or 4 years now. Actually the frame was originally designed for cyclocross but I built it up with light touring in mind. Though that was my original intent, I have found that I use it for all of my touring including my full on unsupported touring. The photo below shows my typical load of 23 lbs. which includes the rear panniers and their content, along with my bagged tent bound to the rear rack. The rear triangle and bottom bracket were built stiff enough for me to use it in this manner and I really enjoy touring with this bike, but I have ridden other ti bikes that were not up to this task. I also have a steel fork with brake and front rack already attached and can interchange it within just a few minutes if I want to carry front panniers as well, though generally I don't find them necessary for 7-10 day tours that are more typical for me. Again, ti has its advantages and disadvantages, and so there is not yet a perfect material when it comes to building bicycle frames.
Last edited by robow; 03-29-16 at 12:02 AM.
#3
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you're going light enough you don't need panniers.
save the weight of the heavy bags and rear rack by
doing the bikepacking thing. that would also solve
your potential short chainstay problem.
you could also try adding a lowrider to the front,
(would you need a steel fork?) with a set of
small panniers. weight up front is not for
everyone, you'll need to try it and see.
save the weight of the heavy bags and rear rack by
doing the bikepacking thing. that would also solve
your potential short chainstay problem.
you could also try adding a lowrider to the front,
(would you need a steel fork?) with a set of
small panniers. weight up front is not for
everyone, you'll need to try it and see.
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You could also look at the Kona Rove Ti frameset for a tourer. It has disc brake mounts on the chain stay for racks, which, along with fenders, have eyelet mounting points on the frame. It is actually made by Lynsky in the USA for Kona.
I was looking at it the other night, fantasizing about a really high end Ti light touring bike that you could build with it.
I was looking at it the other night, fantasizing about a really high end Ti light touring bike that you could build with it.
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you're going light enough you don't need panniers.
save the weight of the heavy bags and rear rack by
doing the bikepacking thing. that would also solve
your potential short chainstay problem.
you could also try adding a lowrider to the front,
(would you need a steel fork?) with a set of
small panniers. weight up front is not for
everyone, you'll need to try it and see.
save the weight of the heavy bags and rear rack by
doing the bikepacking thing. that would also solve
your potential short chainstay problem.
you could also try adding a lowrider to the front,
(would you need a steel fork?) with a set of
small panniers. weight up front is not for
everyone, you'll need to try it and see.
By the way I do not think Trek is god. I bought the 920. I would not buy a 720, too many better things out there. But I do really like the look of the fork bags.
IMHO
#6
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No, it doesn't have to be steel, aluminum would be fine if designed properly with the necessary braze ons. I could even leave that carbon fork on my bike and just add my Old Man Mountain front rack with front panniers as well. It's not the material so much as how it is engineered.
#7
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Thread Starter
you're going light enough you don't need panniers.
save the weight of the heavy bags and rear rack by
doing the bikepacking thing. that would also solve
your potential short chainstay problem.
you could also try adding a lowrider to the front,
(would you need a steel fork?) with a set of
small panniers. weight up front is not for
everyone, you'll need to try it and see.
save the weight of the heavy bags and rear rack by
doing the bikepacking thing. that would also solve
your potential short chainstay problem.
you could also try adding a lowrider to the front,
(would you need a steel fork?) with a set of
small panniers. weight up front is not for
everyone, you'll need to try it and see.
#8
Senior Member
I've found the Lynskey Urbanskey, which is the predecessor to the Urbano and the same as the Cooper CX, makes a fine touring bike. The tube shaping on the frame stiffens it up enough to eliminate most flexing. My fully loaded steel Surly Troll is much more flexible. Here are a couple photos of my bike in medium and light touring setups. The only issue I'm now addressing is getting low enough gearing with the Ultegra drivetrain. Not too many options. I can run an 11-40 on the rear with a compact crankset and MTB derailleur, but for expedition touring or serious climbing, even that is not low enough for me.
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A friend of mine used the Habanero (possibly the same model as Robow above). He liked it. But he had a little trouble trying to get his panniers as far forward as possible to reduce shimmy while also maintaining adequate heel clearance. He used a Bontrager carbon fork that had rack fittings, but did not use a front rack on that trip. His rear rack was a Bontrager copy of the Tubus Logo. If you go this route, get the stiffest rack you can find, I think the Tubus Logo is very very stiff, that is what I use.
If I recall correctly he got one with 130mm dropout spacing. But if you go light, that should be adequate.
Unfortunately I do not have a good photo. In the photo, he is standing next to his bike, but it is not very easy to see.
Did you look at the Lynskey prices at Nashbar?
If I recall correctly he got one with 130mm dropout spacing. But if you go light, that should be adequate.
Unfortunately I do not have a good photo. In the photo, he is standing next to his bike, but it is not very easy to see.
Did you look at the Lynskey prices at Nashbar?
#10
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Built for that : https://lynskeyperformance.com/road/...ting/backroad/
#11
Senior Member
Titanium frame characteristics vary greatly just as aluminum or steel frames can vary greatly depending on how they were designed. You can make it stiff or supple depending on the desired use. I've been touring on a ti frame for about 3 or 4 years now. Actually the frame was originally designed for cyclocross but I built it up with light touring in mind. Though that was my original intent, I have found that I use it for all of my touring including my full on unsupported touring. The photo below shows my typical load of 23 lbs. which includes the rear panniers and their content, along with my bagged tent bound to the rear rack. The rear triangle and bottom bracket were built stiff enough for me to use it in this manner and I really enjoy touring with this bike, but I have ridden other ti bikes that were not up to this task. I also have a steel fork with brake and front rack already attached and can interchange it within just a few minutes if I want to carry front panniers as well, though generally I don't find them necessary for 7-10 day tours that are more typical for me. Again, ti has its advantages and disadvantages, and so there is not yet a perfect material when it comes to building bicycle frames.
#13
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Thread Starter
Alan, thanks! Your "medium" touring set up looks like it's carrying as much or more gear than I would be carrying. If you think it's as stable and solid as the steel Surly, that's good to know.
I hear you about the gearing issues. Such a pain. Seems like only solution is to piece together a drivetrain and shifters/brifters with a triple crank.
I hear you about the gearing issues. Such a pain. Seems like only solution is to piece together a drivetrain and shifters/brifters with a triple crank.
#14
Senior Member
Alan, thanks! Your "medium" touring set up looks like it's carrying as much or more gear than I would be carrying. If you think it's as stable and solid as the steel Surly, that's good to know.
I hear you about the gearing issues. Such a pain. Seems like only solution is to piece together a drivetrain and shifters/brifters with a triple crank.
I hear you about the gearing issues. Such a pain. Seems like only solution is to piece together a drivetrain and shifters/brifters with a triple crank.
As I said in my earlier post, the Lynskey is stiffer under a comparable load than the Surly, which is a good thing. Titanium done right is a great material for a touring frame, because it is light, can be made reasonably stiff, completely rustproof and very durable, with a ride similar to CF or steel in terms of soaking up bumps. Probably doesn't hurt that the fork is CF.
#15
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You'd have to pry my hydraulic disc brakes out of my hands before I'd go with a triple or anything else on that bike. Have an S&S coupled World Troller on order for an upcoming trip this summer, and hopefully many more in years to come. That bike will have a mountain triple to get me up anything, and hydraulic discs for the ride down. All I need now is to repurpose my 2011 Troll. Not sure what to do with it. Maybe a 1x11?
As I said in my earlier post, the Lynskey is stiffer under a comparable load than the Surly, which is a good thing. Titanium done right is a great material for a touring frame, because it is light, can be made reasonably stiff, completely rustproof and very durable, with a ride similar to CF or steel in terms of soaking up bumps. Probably doesn't hurt that the fork is CF.
As I said in my earlier post, the Lynskey is stiffer under a comparable load than the Surly, which is a good thing. Titanium done right is a great material for a touring frame, because it is light, can be made reasonably stiff, completely rustproof and very durable, with a ride similar to CF or steel in terms of soaking up bumps. Probably doesn't hurt that the fork is CF.
#16
Senior Member
On my now sold Thorn Sherpa i had Shimamo xt771 groupset and Tiagra sti leavers worked perfect,i fitted an on line adjuster for rear mech the xt doesnt have a barrell adjuster.
#17
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You have to use a road FD, though, MTB FDs have different cable pull than brifters. Using a road FD works with a 46-48t or larger big ring, but not much smaller.
10 and 11 speed MTB and 11 speed road aren't cross-compatible; just 7-10 speed road and 7-9 speed MTB.
I currently have a 3 x 10 setup on my Rivendell, shifting an 11-34 cassette with a RD-M772. Huge gearing range.
If you want to use flat/MTB/trekking bars, I highly recommend the Jones Loop bars. Some folks really like the butterfly/trekking bars, but I've never tried them.
#18
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If you want to use drops and brifters with MTB gearing, you can use 10-speed Shimano brifters with a 9-speed MTB RD; they'll work perfectly together to index 10 gears across a wide-range cassette.
You have to use a road FD, though, MTB FDs have different cable pull than brifters. Using a road FD works with a 46-48t or larger big ring, but not much smaller.
10 and 11 speed MTB and 11 speed road aren't cross-compatible; just 7-10 speed road and 7-9 speed MTB.
I currently have a 3 x 10 setup on my Rivendell, shifting an 11-34 cassette with a RD-M772. Huge gearing range.
If you want to use flat/MTB/trekking bars, I highly recommend the Jones Loop bars. Some folks really like the butterfly/trekking bars, but I've never tried them.
You have to use a road FD, though, MTB FDs have different cable pull than brifters. Using a road FD works with a 46-48t or larger big ring, but not much smaller.
10 and 11 speed MTB and 11 speed road aren't cross-compatible; just 7-10 speed road and 7-9 speed MTB.
I currently have a 3 x 10 setup on my Rivendell, shifting an 11-34 cassette with a RD-M772. Huge gearing range.
If you want to use flat/MTB/trekking bars, I highly recommend the Jones Loop bars. Some folks really like the butterfly/trekking bars, but I've never tried them.
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@antokelly makes a good point: Some 9-speed MTB RD's do not include a barrel adjuster (because there is one on the MTB shifter). Like him, I added an inline adjuster.
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Titanium frame
Well its not a Linksys, but here is my new Titanium frame Motobecane. I have been commuting with it for the last couple weeks and I really like it. It rides a bit stiffer but at the same time a little softer than my steel frame bike, if that makes any sense. I am planning a little 360 mile ride first of next week. I have no doubt it will make a decent touring bicycle.
I have a Axiom road bike rack mounted to the bike and it is rock solid. I used a mounting arm from another rack to attach the rack to one of the seat stay braze ons. I did not use the metal strip supplied with the rack that is suppose to attach the rack to the brake caliper on a rim brake road bike.
This bike has hydraulic disc brakes with briffters. I love hydraulic disc brakes, had them on one of my other bicycles- no comparison to rim brakes. It also has an 11 speed Ultegra cassette and derailleur.
I have a Axiom road bike rack mounted to the bike and it is rock solid. I used a mounting arm from another rack to attach the rack to one of the seat stay braze ons. I did not use the metal strip supplied with the rack that is suppose to attach the rack to the brake caliper on a rim brake road bike.
This bike has hydraulic disc brakes with briffters. I love hydraulic disc brakes, had them on one of my other bicycles- no comparison to rim brakes. It also has an 11 speed Ultegra cassette and derailleur.
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I like your bike. I have a similar one with lesser kit. 105 SHimano 11 speed and BB7s. It has been great for overnighters and all day rides, it is very comfortable and climbs well. It is also fun to take on offroad explorations. It fits 40mm tires with room for fenders, which happen to be my next upgrade.
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Century Pro Ti - which back rack?
Well its not a Linksys, but here is my new Titanium frame Motobecane. I have been commuting with it for the last couple weeks and I really like it. It rides a bit stiffer but at the same time a little softer than my steel frame bike, if that makes any sense. I am planning a little 360 mile ride first of next week. I have no doubt it will make a decent touring bicycle.
I have a Axiom road bike rack mounted to the bike and it is rock solid. I used a mounting arm from another rack to attach the rack to one of the seat stay braze ons. I did not use the metal strip supplied with the rack that is suppose to attach the rack to the brake caliper on a rim brake road bike.
This bike has hydraulic disc brakes with briffters. I love hydraulic disc brakes, had them on one of my other bicycles- no comparison to rim brakes. It also has an 11 speed Ultegra cassette and derailleur.
I have a Axiom road bike rack mounted to the bike and it is rock solid. I used a mounting arm from another rack to attach the rack to one of the seat stay braze ons. I did not use the metal strip supplied with the rack that is suppose to attach the rack to the brake caliper on a rim brake road bike.
This bike has hydraulic disc brakes with briffters. I love hydraulic disc brakes, had them on one of my other bicycles- no comparison to rim brakes. It also has an 11 speed Ultegra cassette and derailleur.