buckgold

hey guys. I am looking on craigslist at a Giant atx 760 and a Trek 950 singletrack. I am on a budget. Trek is $200 and Giant is $125. Which of these two frames would allow me to upgrade components at a later date? Both are 22 in. I am 6'1/2 in. tall. Which is the better bike? They are both in excellent condition. The Trek has a rigid fork (which I really like on a mtn. bike). The Giant has a Giant suspension fork on it. I have just now started seriously shopping for a bike. I rode as a kid constantly. Had a Nashbar sprint bike. 2 Raleigh road bikes. I really like the flat bar performance fitness bikes and am just doing a lot of shopping around presently. I really like the looks of the Diamondback Insight. I found one on Craigs List but it is a large frame. I think I really want an xl frame. Don't larger frames usually have longer wheelbases? I am a clydesdale at around 6'1" and 230 lbs.

Menel

We'd need specific years. Maybe some photos to date them. The google I found, is they don't have modern threadless headtubes. Look like 7 speed, which makes rear hub dated. Meaning no upgradeability.

Keep saving, build up a larger budget.

osco53

I wouldn't consider anything older than 3 years.

Lots of people get entry level hard tails for Christmas, ride them a few months at best thinking they will get fit.
But they don't adjust the diet or do all the other things needed to get fit so the bikes become Garage wall art..
Others trade In and go full suspension...

Keep looking.

Every thing I see on Craig's list is either junk or way over priced, many nice bikes are priced like new,,just go buy new..

buckgold

Here is a link to the Trek. I am shopping and becoming more knowledgeable about mtn. bikes. This bike attracted me bc of the steel frame, lg size, handlebars. What do you think? https://gadsden.craigslist.org/bik/5046059576.html

Wilfred Laurier

I am 6'5" and I ride a 22" bike. At 6'1/2" I would think 22" frame is a bit big - especially for trail riding.

buckgold

I am thinking I want a fully rigid flatbar performance hybrid that's fast on the road and that I can take offroad for some light trailriding. Steel frame bikes are attractive to me me bc I am always going to weigh at least 200lbs at almost 6'1". When I ride at night it will be on roads that I know don't have holes in them.

osco53

Yes I agree, I am 5'11" 170 pounds I ride a 19.5" Full squish Scott Spark It's considered a Large my the maker.

Fits me like Ladies bike shorts

buckgold

I have heard about the 29'er. I have a question. How far on pavement do people generally ride a 29'er? If I was entertaining the though of riding one say 40 miles to the next city over would I be way off?? Would it depend on the tires I have on and the gear setup? Would a 29er with maybe a jones loop handlebar, or a set-up with 3 hand positions and some slicker tires be feasible? Or, am I way off? I believe I have been bitten by the "one bike to do it all" bug.

buckgold

I have decided I want a rigid 29'er with a few gears. Seven or eight maybe, Only so I can have some speed when on road. I want to build it myself. Anybody know anywhere special I could look for a good entry level 29'er frame? Thanks so much for the guidance thus far. It may take me several months, but I believe I see the light here. https://www.google.com/search?q=pict...w=1366&bih=667

cobba

https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...45_-1___204685

https://www.pricepoint.com/Brand/Bree...rame-Black.axd

https://www.planet-x-usa.com/i/q/FROO...rtical-dropout

https://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...Framesets-29er

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/u...rt=bestselling

nightvision

Hybrids work great on pavement but off-road it is really just mostly for maybe dirt and gravel trails. Hybrids can take some trail riding but if the terrains is a bit harsh, the bike won't withstand for long. Your weight at 200 lbs is no limitation to look into aluminum frames. Am 215 lbs and my aluminum frame works great and I have no problems. At 6'1" you are just in between a L and XL depending on the geometry of the frame. So depending on the brand of the bike you could potentially be able to ride both sizes.

Another option you could do is get an XC bike and get some small nobby tires like Kenda Small Block if you go for a 29er or Maxxis Larsen TT if you go for a 26er. Will have less roll resistance on the pavement and give you some grip on the dirt trails. I would run it at a higher pressure on the pavement and lower some pressure on the trails.

buckgold

Hey I appreciate the links to some frames. I am checking it all out now. In your opinion, do you think I should build my own bike, look for a super deal on a used bike , or buy a new bike. I am thinking I want a rigid 29'er with maybe a 1x10. My body don't hurt yet. I want to do some urban assault, take it into the woods for some light trail, nothing gnarly right now, and ride some cross country. I am actually looking at xc bikes right now, but I don't really think I want any suspension at all. I don't know. I just never have liked it much. When I was a kid I had a Schwinn Scrambler. . which was a fixie mtn bike. I had a rigid Specialized about six yrs. ago. Low end. But, it was stolen. haahha. Have had a couple Raleigh road bikes over the last twenty years and rode hard, but got away from me. I still need to test ride some 29'ers, but at my size I am certain I am going to like it from everything I have read. I know I don't want a cushy hybrid, or any low end suspension. I restore antique cars. I know I can build my own bike. Just want to have a really good idea exactly what I am going to be sitting on when I am done. I see pics and I think .. I want mine to look a lot like that one there. So, I am researching geometry, tires, bars, the whole 9. Sorry for the ramble. Thanks for anybodys input. I know you guys know.

70sSanO

Hi, I'm 63 and have been riding road bikes for a long time. 2 years ago I neighbor gave me an old GT mountain bike. Since then I have lost over 60 lbs and have built 2 mountain bikes from the frame up... a 1992 Serotta T-max and a 1995 Trek 970. Despite some opinions, old steel frames are not a bad way to go. That said, you would probably be best served on a newer steel 29er.

Here are the basic rules about building a bike from the frame up. It will almost always cost you more than a complete bike, especially if you have never built one before. But if you can do your own maintenance it will cost less in the long run than having a shop fix it every time.

Try to get a sub 5lb steel frame and a rigid fork. If you buy a $250 frame and a Kona fork, the final cost will probably run around $1000. Make sure you get a setup with disc brakes.

The following are just my opinion... For just riding 9 speed is better than 10 as it is cheaper and less finicky. 8 is probably the best, but you'll have to buy used or NOS to get good quality. I actually run 2x7 with 8 speed spacing on the cassette so I can run all 7 cogs with both chainrings.

If you are going to ride a lot on the road, you would probably be better with a 2x system... with a 29er, 24/34 or maybe 26/36. An 11-34 cassette will let you get some decent speed in the 36/11 and the 26/34 will be low enough for whatever trails you ride.

ebay is your friend.

John

Added: If you do buy a complete mountain bike, please try to stay away from a cheap one with front suspension. For what you are doing, you might as well tie a brick on your handlebars as you will be adding at least 3-4 pounds for no benefit. If the shop will swap out the 5+lb suspension fork for a rigid, that may be a good way to go.

Wilfred Laurier

Yes. Depends on tires mostly. 29" is actually a marketing term for 700C - the standard road and hybrid tire size. Any tire you can put on most road, touring, or hybrid bikes can also go on a 29er (unless the tires are narrower than the rims).

edit:

You can ride 40 miles on any properly functioning bike that fits. I used to ride my rigid 26" wheel mtb to the next town to begin my trail ride.

bruised

I went from a crappy Schwinn ladies bike to my first decent bike, a hardtail 29er. It was a GT Timberline and retailed around $450. I rode the thing everywhere - did a couple century rides on asphalt, rode the local gravel trails, some single-track and even a few bikepacking trips. I covered about 1500 miles before upgrading.

I'd buy a decent 29er with front sus and at least a 2x10 setup. Why limit yourself with gearing? If you're going off-road, why not have a front shock? (with lockout).

There's a lot of bikes floating around on craigslist and if you're prepared to wait, then haggle on price a little, you could get a decent deal.

Personally I'd say go to a bike shop and buy it new. They'll help you with everything you need and be there for service and support. When it comes time to upgrade, they'll work with you on a decent part-ex deal for a better bike.
Plus there's something special about walking out of a bike shop with a new bike, instead of inheriting another person's cast-off.

buckgold

Absolutely excellent input from you guys and I cannot thank you enough. Genuine thoughtfullness, and actually exactly what I have been thinking myself. I am still debating on a front shock. I probably don't have as long as I'd like to have in the rough and tumble world of mtb'ing. I've ridden a lot though. Did my first Century at 16 with my dad across Ga. on a fair steel frame Raleigh rd. bike. That is why I am familiar with the feel of steel. Steel is all I've ever ridden except for alum. test rides over the yrs., and a few alum. tests lately. My dad's Nashbar sprint road bike is alum. and fast, but kind of jarring. I don't know why, but I love the weight of steel. SMOOTH RIDE. I test rode a Specialized Cross Trail today. 21. in. Fit perfectly. Ahhh. Nice. Wasn't steel tho. However, the shop I was in is a Surley dealer. Weighing all my options. I'm digging in. Analyzing every word from replies. I hear you! Thanks. I'll be in touch with you guys. I cannot wait to get on my next bike! Patience. Patience. Hmm. . Build, or BUY. I get it. The long run.

Duke of Kent

Sort of. It's an approximation of the tire diameter when mounted and inflated.

Just like 28" for road tires in Europe.

Most road bikes, 29er mountain bikes, etc all use 700c rims. 700c is a French designation for the 622mm ETRTO rim standard.

Tire dimension, as printed on every tire I've ever seen, like "22-622" or "622x55" indicate the rim ETRTO (622mm) plus the width (22mm, or 55mm, or whatever) of the tires once mounted and inflated on them.

Some good links from Sheldon Brown:

Tire Sizing Systems

622 mm - 700c - 29 inch Bicycle Rims from Harris Cyclery