For the love of English 3 speeds...
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I had a cheap chain tool that I bought around 1972 - doubt if I paid more than $3 for it. It lasted until 2015 when one of the chain stops sheared off. I bought a Bell tool for around $10 and broke the pin on the second use. Now I have a Park chain tool and Park link pliers for quick links and life is good.
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I had a cheap chain tool that I bought around 1972 - doubt if I paid more than $3 for it. It lasted until 2015 when one of the chain stops sheared off. I bought a Bell tool for around $10 and broke the pin on the second use. Now I have a Park chain tool and Park link pliers for quick links and life is good.
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I had a cheap chain tool that I bought around 1972 - doubt if I paid more than $3 for it. It lasted until 2015 when one of the chain stops sheared off. I bought a Bell tool for around $10 and broke the pin on the second use. Now I have a Park chain tool and Park link pliers for quick links and life is good.
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separate pieces....
Charging $4.00 for the link.
You need to align the clip so it "pulls" against the curve.
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It's great to have these cog choices. My DL-1 is from 1970 so it has the later 46T chainring. The 22T cog makes all the difference in the world for me. I use all three on that bike. With the original 16T, it was a two speed for me. The scorcher is happy with 48x20, but the much heavier full dress 51 Rudge I only ride in normal and low with that configuration. I don't think 22T would be enough to make high a good cruising gear on that bike. I was surprised how much heavier the pre 2030 frames are. Especially when you add a dyno hub and B66. I haven't weighed it but it doesn't feel any lighter then the DL-1.
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That's the same one I have. Your box is in slightly better shape though. Everytime I get it out I think to myself I probably should get a new one, but now I'll just think of it as classic.
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It's great to have these cog choices. My DL-1 is from 1970 so it has the later 46T chainring. The 22T cog makes all the difference in the world for me. I use all three on that bike. With the original 16T, it was a two speed for me. The scorcher is happy with 48x20, but the much heavier full dress 51 Rudge I only ride in normal and low with that configuration. I don't think 22T would be enough to make high a good cruising gear on that bike. I was surprised how much heavier the pre 2030 frames are. Especially when you add a dyno hub and B66. I haven't weighed it but it doesn't feel any lighter then the DL-1.
I didn't know how easy it was to change.
I've been riding my Robin Hood SS (Semi-Scorcher) to work lately.
I think it has a 20 on it.
I find the gear range both useful and comfortable.
I'm riding with rush hour traffic so I have no need to be
a speed demon.
Frame year unknown with a '63 hub, new tires and brakes with a vintage Wrights saddle.
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Worth trying. I bought the little Park version and that one not only is a bit more comfortable in the hand than the Rivoli but the pin can be replaced. It's about the same size and weight as the Rivoli. I still have I think two bikes where the chains don't have a master link. When I went to buy a chain for the mixte conversion the bike shop was out of stock so Mike grabbed up like a dozen bits of leftover single speed chain (all matching) threw them in a bag and handed them to me and I spent maybe a half hour or a little more pinning them all together.
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Rudi the saddle guy riveted my good B72 cover to an intact used frame. (The frame breaks if you use Joe Breeze's seat sandwich. Ask me how I know.) He used these really fine wide brass rivets. It looks so good. I almost want to ask him to do my other saddles that way, too.
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For 3/32" I use Sram PC830 chains - I like their quick links. For 1/8" chains I've been using Bell (I think) chains that I bought when K-Mart was closing - their quick links are more old school.
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Special thanks to Dan Burkhart for the 22 tooth cog.
Last edited by Alloyboy; 06-15-19 at 11:08 AM. Reason: Forgot to address to paulb in bklyn.
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Paulb in bklyn, The bent pin is removable and replaced with the spare one enclosed in the original box. Jim.
Last edited by Alloyboy; 06-15-19 at 11:26 AM.
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Just for comparison, 406 modern rim which is going on my Dahon folder nestled inside the 451 rim soon on my R20.
Good looking replacement with safety benefits but dang!, that chrome does shine.
I had to decide which 3 speed project was going to get my meager funds. The scorcher needed LED bulbs or my Twenty needed safe stop aluminium rims.
I chose the rims. CR18 20” 451 28 hole. Had to wait quite awhile as nobody had them. Now back in stock and delivered to the LBS today! I’m going to miss that shiny chrome but I do want a sure stop.
The new new rims are 22.3mm wide while the originals are 28.3 I also held them both together and worked out the spoke hole orientation. From valve hole to valve hole, the left /right does not match which means I will slide it back one spoke for the correct alignment. Plan is for tape together and walk the spokes over.
some pics...
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Just for comparison, 406 modern rim which is going on my Dahon folder nestled inside the 451 rim soon on my R20.
Good looking replacement with safety benefits but dang!, that chrome does shine.
I had to decide which 3 speed project was going to get my meager funds. The scorcher needed LED bulbs or my Twenty needed safe stop aluminium rims.
I chose the rims. CR18 20” 451 28 hole. Had to wait quite awhile as nobody had them. Now back in stock and delivered to the LBS today! I’m going to miss that shiny chrome but I do want a sure stop.
The new new rims are 22.3mm wide while the originals are 28.3 I also held them both together and worked out the spoke hole orientation. From valve hole to valve hole, the left /right does not match which means I will slide it back one spoke for the correct alignment. Plan is for tape together and walk the spokes over.
some pics...
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Thanks BG! Will keep that in mind before I roll out on these.
i’ve decided it’s also a good time to switch the rear cog to 16 and regressed the BB. I have been using a Teflon spray in there which sets up like grease but don’t want to continue to relie on this method. Will use my friends Park cotter tool to save the pins for reuse. If not, I start saving for something else!
i’ve decided it’s also a good time to switch the rear cog to 16 and regressed the BB. I have been using a Teflon spray in there which sets up like grease but don’t want to continue to relie on this method. Will use my friends Park cotter tool to save the pins for reuse. If not, I start saving for something else!
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Start hitting the cotters with penetrating oil right away. I hope I'm not jinxing myself here, but I have never experienced the trouble with cotters that I've seen other people here have. I'm thinking this may be due to my system of oiling them a few days before I start a BB service. I take the nut and washer off and fill the well with PB Blaster. Only twice did I have cotters bend so badly that I had to drill and drive them out with a hammer and punch. Sometimes the threaded end will bend slightly. In that case I put the nut on, chuck it up in the bench vise and tap it straight again. It used to be a big tragedy if I wrecked a cotter getting it out. Filing those cheap cotters they sell these days to fit and align the crank arms at the same time is a pest. Now, with some Bike Smith cotters on hand, I don't have to worry about that anymore.
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Still Out There
A Raleigh Folder here in Toronto for $100.00
A Raleigh Folder here in Toronto for $100.00
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Rudi the saddle guy riveted my good B72 cover to an intact used frame. (The frame breaks if you use Joe Breeze's seat sandwich. Ask me how I know.) He used these really fine wide brass rivets. It looks so good. I almost want to ask him to do my other saddles that way, too.