VeloPeugeot

Almost two years ago, I bought a 1972 Peugeot bicycle (my only other post was about that bike when I first got it) and have been riding it daily since.

Unfortunately, I seem to have broken the hollow rear axle in the rear wheel and am having trouble figuring out what the proper replacement part should be. It seems that these hollow axles are sold by length and diameter; from what I understand, the original French axles are 9.5mm in diameter.

If I want to replace the entire axle with a modern unit, is there anything preventing me from buying a 3/8 inch new production axle with American threading and new "caps" (the pieces on the left and right of the axle that hold in the ball bearings - I do not know the proper term for this part)?

Or, would I have to use the original French "caps" and thereby need to find an axle with Metric threading?

I would appreciate any help you may be able to offer - I would love to get this bike back in operation soon!

Nwvlvtnr 

This is your bicycle?

Brad L 

New 9.5mm axles are available from Wheels Manufacturing but you'll need to determine if your threads are 9.5mm x 24tpi (threads per inch) or 9.5mm x 26tpi. Though they seems close enough, getting it wrong can ruin the axle and/or cones (caps).

Wheels Manufacturing Hub Axles (wheelsmfg.com)

juvela

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the cycle's hubs are Normandy (brand name) Sport (model name) as produced by the firm of Maillard

the axle thread is 9.5mm diameter by 1.0 which works out to be 25.4TPI so 26TPI can be used

length required is about 130mm
an axle slightly too long can be easily truncated

the hub employs nine 1/4" balls per side

this manufacturer ceased play in 1991 & closed plant

in the intervening years spare parts have become increasingly thin on the ground which often results in making adaptation a necessity to accomplish repairs...


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VeloPeugeot

Thank you for all the information. So, you are saying that I would need to buy a new 9.5mm x 24tpi (threads per inch) or 9.5mm x 26tpi hollow axle and then use my original French cones.

Is there any reason that you couldn't just replace the entire assembly (cones and the axle) with an American threaded axle and new, matching cones? This is what I am not understanding - why would you want to use the original French cones (especially if they are threaded for a strange metric axle)?

Also, what is the name of the threaded rod that runs inside the hollow axle and actually bolts the wheel to the frame? This part is actually slightly bent on my bike, and I would like to replace it.

jdawginsc 

Quick release rod.

SJX426 

@VeloPeugeot - you want 9.5mm x 26tpi hollow axle that is closest to 25.4, not 9.5x24.
If you could find equivalent cones, that option might work. There is no reason not to use the existing cones if they are not damaged.

Perhaps you should read What Is a Bike Hub? - A Simple Guide to Bicycle Hubs | BikeTrainerWorld.

juvela

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"Is there any reason that you couldn't just replace the entire assembly (cones and the axle) with an American threaded axle and new, matching cones? This is what I am not understanding - why would you want to use the original French cones (especially if they are threaded for a strange metric axle)?"

thar be quite a bit of cone bearing contour shape variation as one moves from hub model to hub model

if one is a fiddly sort of person it is sometimes possible to make a non-original cone work smoothly by changing the ball size - this approach is a gamble and very much a "last resort"

if existing cones not pitted you want to reuse them

if pitted it brings up the problem to find something which will work

some posters have reported success with Sunshine and with Suzue cones, this may require some adapting...

you could use the forum's search function to bring up these discussions if wished

minor tip -

1972 was the year when Maillard five speed axle sets chainged from 120mm over locknut dimension to 122mm over locknut dimension

would expect your machine to exhibit the 122mm size but possible it could have the 120mm size


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VeloPeugeot

Thank you for the information - everything is beginning to make more sense now. I pulled the broken axle out of the hub again today to measure, and it is about 5 inches (127mm) long, and 3/8 inch wide. Lining up the threads against a ruler yields something very close to 26 TPI - I guess that that confirms that I need a 9.5x26 TPI axle.

Would you be able to explain what you mean by 120mm vs 122mm over locknut dimension? I assume you're not talking about the hollow axle itself as this seems to be closer to 127mm on my bike.

dedhed

​​​​​​https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

79pmooney

Quick release rod or "skewer". Is the bend in the threaded portion of the skewer? If yes, buy a new skewer. Cheap Shimano skewers are excellent. Look different but are better. If the bend is not in the threaded portion and you want to keep on using it, don't sweat it if it slides reasonably easily inside the axle.

On the cones - the OEM cones were made to fit closely to the OEM dust caps which are a neat press fit onto the hub shell. Going to different cones often means a much poorer fit between cone and dust cap, allowing road grit to get in. Road grit in the balls and on the race surfaces kills cones fast. A workable axle that allows you to use the original cones is a far better solution as long as your current cones are in good shape. (Look at the race surface. Is it a smooth ring under the balls of it is pitted" If no pits, reassemble clean with good grease and ride!

VeloPeugeot

I see - so I suppose its always best to go with the original cones where possible. Mine unfortunately do seem to suffer from some pitting. There is a silver ring on the race surface of each cone, but this silver ring has some pits and roughness in some areas of both cones.

Would you be able to tell me a bit more about these dust covers? I was not aware of any when disassembling my wheel - should they be threaded onto the axle somehow? Or are they press fit into the hub on both sides and designed to stay semi-permanently fixed in place?

VeloPeugeot

One more question:

What is the reason for the hollow axle anyways? Wouldn't it be much better to get a 9.5mm x 26 TPI solid axle and then just use 26TPI nuts on the outside without the quick release rod? Seems like this setup would be stronger and less prone to cracking.

juvela

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127mm would be an OLD for 6V and cycle in posted photo too early (as is 1972 date) for a 6V Peugeot from the factory

if this dimension correct rear wheel may be a replacement from a 122mm OEM wheel

you could examine the cycle's wheel rims to see if they are a match. the OEM rim for the white machine in the photo would have been a RIGIDA SUPERCHROMIX with serrated braking surface. these rims usually exhibit a small diamond symbol next to the name. there is sometimes a two-digit date marked inside the diamond. if your rims exhibit this you could check to see if dates agree.




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using nuts to hold wheel in frame means rider must carry a spanner if they are going to be able to deal with a puncture

sometimes a rider may wish to remove wheels from frame in order to fit cycle into trunk of motor vehicle

operation so much easier & faster with a quick release...as is the remounting


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