SJX426 

BTW, the pictured stem creaked a lot when I rode the bike. Slightly undersized and wore a band at the top of the steerer, Otherwise I might sell it. But who needs a stem smaller than 22?

Classtime 

I applaud the keep it original approach to this bike. The front derailleur on my '69 was the original as far as i know and it didn't crack during my years of abusing it. I'm no engineer, but it seems that the cable forces on this design are less consequential than on other types and the clamp can be cinched up gently.

Brad L 

No problem. I'm sure he's had a few, if not many, bad experiences selling on eBay. Goes with the territory. However, looking at his exclusion list, it might be easier for him to list where he DOES ship.

Oakman

That bike is exactly like the one I bought in '71 except mine came with an Ideale 90 saddle. Never understood why Peugeot would sometimes use Brooks rather than Ideale.

Salamandrine 

OK, awesome. Just making sure -- seen too many broken seat lugs. Glad it fits.

Stronglight 93 are my favorite vintage French crank. They aren't as floppy as a TA, and I've never seen one break or crack. IME best to be careful about taking them on and off too much. The alloy is just a little bit on the soft side, and the tapers will slowly enlarge over time.. +1 on the 37T chainring from red clover. I put an old stock 38 on mine a few years back, works great. If I hadn't had that, would have done the 37.

Somewhere down the line I have this vision for my PX10 that it will sport revitalized Simplex derailleurs with new parts 3d printed to replace the crispy ones. Definitely a back burner project, but I'd like to do it eventually.

Brad L 

I've been bouncing that idea around in my head. The parts are small enough that scanning and printing shouldn't be very difficult, but possibly could cost more than the bike itself.

Brad L 

This chain is unbelievable. Hard to believe it’s 49 years old.

AdventureManCO 

Wow, what a gorgeous bike! If it is anything like my PX-10, you will love love love the ride.

Classtime 

That chain! I can imagine the sound of it on your PX-10 's chainrings and FW. Music.

Road Fan

This a fantastic bike! If it was mine the best outcome would be to fully clean and inspect all of it and service all of the bearings and rust spots that need it. A small spot of rust on a chain does not need a chain needs to be renewed. Excessive elongation due to roller wear might need it, but consider replacing the freewheel at the same time. If you don't have a freewheel and it all runs well when lubed, maybe you don't need ot replace either one.

Also those are great examples of original wheels, especially with the original QRs. If you are planning to replace the original!! rims, please consider me interested in the set of wheels, since I have a PX-10 that is seeking parts. The tires are toast, as badly toasted a set of tubulars as I have ever seen, and I started using them around 1970.

Re the saddle, a little Proofide will help it, but a lot of Proofide could be a problem. Brooks recommends a light coat around every 6-ish months. The dressing is not supposed to break it in, the riding is.

The freewheel: It probably has a French-made freewheel, and I could not say if it is French threaded. I can say that freewheels can be a challenge to re-assemble if you take it apart. Don't open it if you don't have to, at least i wouldn't.

Bearings for the wheels, BB, and headset should be very straight forward to overhaul.

Back in the day, derailleurs like these were known to be excellent shifting when in good condition, and based on the UO-8s and Raleighs owned by my friends I can say they were. If yours are good, keep them until they are not. This goes for your new front derailleur as well. When you remove your old one, keep the metal half of the clamp. Usually the plastic versions of that clamp fail if you wave a wrench at them.

"death stem" - I don't know where this came from nor if it is true, but I have heard the rumor for at least 25 years. I don't think I've met anyone who experienced the failure. I'm sure that not all of the stems provided by Peug have inherent failure modes, and am actually surprised if any of them do. Here I would suggest remove and dismantle the cockpit completely, clean it all in an ultrasonic cleaner if possible, and look for cracks or deep grooves with a magnifying glass in bright sunlight. If it looks suspect renew it, same for the bars. But, the pictures convince me that this bike has been ridden and not abused. Nothing should have happened to any of its parts that would put heavy unusual stress on them, and the fork does not look bent. But the fork can be checked when you remove the fork to overhaul its bearings.

The pedals are French and may or may not be French-threaded. I would overhaul them, but do not buy new ones without matching the threads. You might find there is no problem with the threads, that the threads are French but you can get modern pedals that suit, or that you can have these Stronglight cranks re-threaded to suit your new pedals. Lots of choices!

Don't lose any of the bolts, screws and washers (to do this work out on the lawn would not be a good idea). If some are bad it will be important to have the old ones to get the correct replacements, in terms of thread. For a French bike you can expect some french sizings. Most will probably standard metric, but ... there could be odd stuff.

I have one of these that is in a few boxes, and I think this is the year when I can start to work on it. I rode one once when was of that age, but could never buy a new one when they were around. But I never forgot it, one of the best bikes ever.

Brad L 

So far the disassembly has gone very smoothly. There have yet to be any difficult nuts or bolts. When I removed the bottom bracket, I found only thick, aged grease, and the only surprise was how pristine the inside of the bb shell looks.

Brad L 

These are a few photos of the progress of the refurbishment of the PX-10. It's going a bit slower now that the shop area in my garage feels a bit like an oven.

The saddle cleaned up really well. I treated the top with Proofide and then gave it a good wipe-down, then treated the underside and let it sit. I'm amazed the lettering on the badge isn't worn. All that's left is to ride it to break it (or my backside) in.




The seatpost cleaned up nicely. I definitely like the riveted Simplex badge.

Brad L 

The crankset was disassembled and polished, as were several of the ancillary bits.




And the pedals have been completely cleaned and polished, with new bearings and toe straps.



This is a before and after shot of the pedals.

merziac

Nice work, carry on.

oldbikenewbike

Here's mine. Belonged to my late brother-in-law who was the original owner. Cables and front derailleur (along with tires) have been changed out. Otherwise, all original.

viperocco

Nice score!

steve sumner

gives me beautiful memories. my first race bike was a 72 PX10.put 1000's of miles on it.
the bars broke clean off at the stem while pulling hard up a steep hill. boy could I balance
then. had to reach down and loosen toe straps in order to jerk my slotted cleat from the
pedals. I would replace the tired bar and stem with French just because that's what the bike
should be running. just upgrade to Philipe Pro