Rear Rack Mount Clearance Issue With Gears
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Rear Rack Mount Clearance Issue With Gears
Hi all,
I'm trying to mount a rear rack onto my bike, but the mounting hole on my bike has nearly no clearance to the 7th (last) gear. When I put the whole thing together, the chain got stuck on the nut when I was switching to 7th.
There seems to be only 1/8th-1/4th of an inch of clearance. Has anyone else encountered this issue before? Do they sell extremely thin nuts?
Thanks,
Jonathan
I'm trying to mount a rear rack onto my bike, but the mounting hole on my bike has nearly no clearance to the 7th (last) gear. When I put the whole thing together, the chain got stuck on the nut when I was switching to 7th.
There seems to be only 1/8th-1/4th of an inch of clearance. Has anyone else encountered this issue before? Do they sell extremely thin nuts?
Thanks,
Jonathan
#2
Banned
Eyelets are usually threaded .. 5mm
just dont let the bolt screw in too far to the inside, a shorter bolt, and maybe another washer .
just dont let the bolt screw in too far to the inside, a shorter bolt, and maybe another washer .
Last edited by fietsbob; 11-25-13 at 05:29 PM.
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Yes, there are some thinner nuts. Try the hardware store.
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+1 does your rack eyelet down there not have threads inside? Typically you will not need to have a nut, just a bolt with matching threading, at just the right length to not poke through.
I don't know the industry-standard threading off hand, but (a) it will be metric, and (b) it is quite probably the same as whatever bolts are holding your water bottle cages on. Take one of those out and see if it threads into your eyelet. If so, you're golden; ride your bike to your local hardware store, take a water-bottle cage bolt inside and buy a couple matching ones for your rack. Otherwise, ride your bike INTO your local hardware store and find bolts that thread in properly.
If you have non-threaded eyelets, then your frame is weird. You probably are too.
I don't know the industry-standard threading off hand, but (a) it will be metric, and (b) it is quite probably the same as whatever bolts are holding your water bottle cages on. Take one of those out and see if it threads into your eyelet. If so, you're golden; ride your bike to your local hardware store, take a water-bottle cage bolt inside and buy a couple matching ones for your rack. Otherwise, ride your bike INTO your local hardware store and find bolts that thread in properly.
If you have non-threaded eyelets, then your frame is weird. You probably are too.
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+1 does your rack eyelet down there not have threads inside? Typically you will not need to have a nut, just a bolt with matching threading, at just the right length to not poke through.
I don't know the industry-standard threading off hand, but (a) it will be metric, and (b) it is quite probably the same as whatever bolts are holding your water bottle cages on. Take one of those out and see if it threads into your eyelet. If so, you're golden; ride your bike to your local hardware store, take a water-bottle cage bolt inside and buy a couple matching ones for your rack. Otherwise, ride your bike INTO your local hardware store and find bolts that thread in properly.
If you have non-threaded eyelets, then your frame is weird. You probably are too.
I don't know the industry-standard threading off hand, but (a) it will be metric, and (b) it is quite probably the same as whatever bolts are holding your water bottle cages on. Take one of those out and see if it threads into your eyelet. If so, you're golden; ride your bike to your local hardware store, take a water-bottle cage bolt inside and buy a couple matching ones for your rack. Otherwise, ride your bike INTO your local hardware store and find bolts that thread in properly.
If you have non-threaded eyelets, then your frame is weird. You probably are too.
Depending on the length of the bolt being used, I have heard of people who removed the rear wheel and thread the bolt from the inside- also a handy trick to discourage pranksters from loosening/removing the bolt.
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But only if the rack stay is also threaded, which I think is quite unlikely. Or, the rack stay is mounted inside the eyelet, then add the height of the bolt head, and you're probably back to clearance issues. But if it fits, I agree, that sounds like a clever way to keep hoodlums from loosening your rack bolts!
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Hi all,
I'm trying to mount a rear rack onto my bike, but the mounting hole on my bike has nearly no clearance to the 7th (last) gear. When I put the whole thing together, the chain got stuck on the nut when I was switching to 7th.
There seems to be only 1/8th-1/4th of an inch of clearance. Has anyone else encountered this issue before? Do they sell extremely thin nuts?
Thanks,
Jonathan
I'm trying to mount a rear rack onto my bike, but the mounting hole on my bike has nearly no clearance to the 7th (last) gear. When I put the whole thing together, the chain got stuck on the nut when I was switching to 7th.
There seems to be only 1/8th-1/4th of an inch of clearance. Has anyone else encountered this issue before? Do they sell extremely thin nuts?
Thanks,
Jonathan
Your rack may already use them so you'll have an example. A hardware store may not have those but a bike shop probably would. A torx disc brake bolt would probably work as well.
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#11
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Yea ,^^^ if your frame has no threaded mount, a button head bolt from the inside out.
with the nut on the outside of the rack-strut, to secure it, has worked in many situations..
with the nut on the outside of the rack-strut, to secure it, has worked in many situations..
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If the eyelet is threaded (usually 5x.8mm) use the correct screw threading in from the outside, and saw, or file off anything sticking through.
If the eyelet isn't threaded, the thinnest head is usually on a flathead screw which can be used head in, and a nut used to hold the rack on. If necessary the flat head can be filed yet thinner, after the rack is installed and tight.
If the eyelet isn't threaded, the thinnest head is usually on a flathead screw which can be used head in, and a nut used to hold the rack on. If necessary the flat head can be filed yet thinner, after the rack is installed and tight.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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