added Lizard Skin neoprene shock covers
#1
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added Lizard Skin neoprene shock covers
may not need them but hoping they will reduce the maintenance I've been doing with wiping & light lubing. I'll keep an eye on them to be sure I'm not defeating the purpose by trapping dirt & moisture
#2
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should be able to keep chrome from rusting (too much more) with a little grease on the stanchion tubes before you cover them with the neoprene sleeves...
forks used to be built with rubber boots ...
forks used to be built with rubber boots ...
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No modern fork should need these,
The way modern forks work is that you leave the stnchions free of anyrhing that will attract dirt, and when dirt does get on them, the wiper seals wipe it out of the way.
The issue with Lizard Skins is that if you do get dirt under them, they just grind it against the stanchions.
It is debatable if you should lube stanchions at all (some fork makers say itnis not needed), but if you do, it should be a product or process that leaves them very dry so stuff does not stick to them. It looks like you have way too much sticky lube on them.
That is my take, anyway.
The way modern forks work is that you leave the stnchions free of anyrhing that will attract dirt, and when dirt does get on them, the wiper seals wipe it out of the way.
The issue with Lizard Skins is that if you do get dirt under them, they just grind it against the stanchions.
It is debatable if you should lube stanchions at all (some fork makers say itnis not needed), but if you do, it should be a product or process that leaves them very dry so stuff does not stick to them. It looks like you have way too much sticky lube on them.
That is my take, anyway.
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No modern fork should need these,The way modern forks work is that you leave the stnchions free of anyrhing that will attract dirt, and when dirt does get on them, the wiper seals wipe it out of the way. It is debatable if you should lube stanchions at all (some fork makers say it is not needed), but if you do, it should be a product or process that leaves them very dry so stuff does not stick to them. It looks like you have way too much sticky lube on them.
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This stuff works:
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agree, from what I read, but the covers will keep them clean so I won't have to wipe them after every muddy ride. I only wiped them with a dry chain lube on paper towel before the last muddy ride. so I think those are mostly mud smears. today I used a generic silicone before covering them
Lizardskins were proven to be a crappy product in the 90s. They are stanchion killers.
There is no need to wipe your stanchions after every muddy ride, let alone with chain lube.
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#9
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I didn’t even release they still sold these. I thought they were put down in the 90s. Get a different fender and you won’t have to worry as much.
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agree, from what I read, but the covers will keep them clean so I won't have to wipe them after every muddy ride. I only wiped them with a dry chain lube on paper towel before the last muddy ride. so I think those are mostly mud smears. today I used a generic silicone before covering them
Either that or the seals are shot, and that is oil/grease from inside the fork.
When was the last time the internals of the fork were serviced? You may need new wipers and seals.
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If the brown gook at the bottom of your stanchion is mud, and not grease, then the wipers are shot, because they should have wiped the mud away leaving the stanchions clean at the bottom.Either that or the seals are shot, and that is oil/grease from inside the fork.When was the last time the internals of the fork were serviced? You may need new wipers and seals.
FWIW it's not a high end fork (SR Suntour XCT, 80mm-travel). it's on a GT Timberline 1.0 from 2013~14 I think. I got it cheap on CL to mess around with. so far seems to be working OK. the fork has an occasional squeak if that matters
Last edited by rumrunn6; 12-26-18 at 08:48 AM.
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before my ride cpl days ago, took them off to take a peak. there was a modest accumulation of debris down around the seal. so I guess stuff still got past the covers. they're off now, thanks for the tips guys. I might put them back on before a blizzard ride, that is, if I don't lose them!
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No modern fork should need these,
The way modern forks work is that you leave the stnchions free of anyrhing that will attract dirt, and when dirt does get on them, the wiper seals wipe it out of the way.
The issue with Lizard Skins is that if you do get dirt under them, they just grind it against the stanchions.
It is debatable if you should lube stanchions at all (some fork makers say itnis not needed), but if you do, it should be a product or process that leaves them very dry so stuff does not stick to them. It looks like you have way too much sticky lube on them.
That is my take, anyway.
The way modern forks work is that you leave the stnchions free of anyrhing that will attract dirt, and when dirt does get on them, the wiper seals wipe it out of the way.
The issue with Lizard Skins is that if you do get dirt under them, they just grind it against the stanchions.
It is debatable if you should lube stanchions at all (some fork makers say itnis not needed), but if you do, it should be a product or process that leaves them very dry so stuff does not stick to them. It looks like you have way too much sticky lube on them.
That is my take, anyway.
Also why are you riding in the mud on trails? Not only is it bad for the trails...but the mud and grit accelerates the wear on chains, derailleurs and brake pads.
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I try to avoid the worst of it ...
but I do like gravel
Last edited by rumrunn6; 01-18-19 at 02:35 PM.